Protege Mechanical Switch

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Thalinor

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Jun 18, 2009
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IMG00096-20100117-1306.jpg



Anyone else get this switch and find that the housing was all plastic, not aluminum? My new Protege came yesterday, it was sent the same day I ordered it and took only 2 days to get here! The unit is by far the best PV I have ever used but I hate the plastic switch. I really have to press down very hard to get this thing to fire, it kinda feels cheap, and the whole housing moves when you press the button.

The photos of the unit in the kit on the PS site show a aluminum switch AND aluminum button, but the one that I got had a plastic housing and plastic switch.

http://www.puresmoker.com/product_p/protegefull.htm

Did I get an old batch? Is there any way I can get a full aluminum switch AND aluminum button like what is being shown in the photos of the full kit I bought? Also, the extra switch I picked up is also plastic, not Anodized Black/Aluminum like is shows/states on the PS site & in my order history.

Will do a review on the unit soon, its amazing!

Thank you!


https://www.puresmoker.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=PROTEGEMECHSWITCH

Protege Mechanical Switch


COMPONENTS:

1 x Mechanical Switch (Direct Replacement for Current Switch)
*** Button Will Be Black Delrin -- Button Housing Will Be Anodized Black/Aluminum
WARRANTY: Limited Life-Time Warranty (Lost/Stolen/Destroyed Won't Be Covered​



Edit: Was going over the PS site and it looks like the swtiches between the Protege and Prodigy V2 are the same, accept the Prodigy V2 has plastic and the Protege has aluminum. Did you run out of switches and just use the Prodigy V2 ones so that it could be shipped at the time of order? If so, thank you for doing so but IMO the plastic switches just don't seem like they can be the same quality as aluminum.
 
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robstc

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Dec 14, 2009
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Rio Rancho, NM
When I got my Protege the button was aluminum which was the tact switch that lasted about 2 days. The new Mechanical switches are the black plastic ones and come with a lifetime warranty. There are other threads under puresmoker about pulling the button out and making sure that the end posts don't have one flat and one round side up. A mechanical switch will take a little bit to break in but mine is working great now!
 

Sun Vaporer

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Jan 2, 2009
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Florida
The description states:

COMPONENTS:

1 x Mechanical Switch (Direct Replacement for Current Switch)
*** Button Will Be Black Delrin -- Button Housing Will Be Anodized Black/Aluminum
WARRANTY: Limited Life-Time Warranty (Lost/Stolen/Destroyed Won't Be Covered​

Delrin is a form of plastic!!! So you got the same switch as the one in the photo.


Sun
 

Thalinor

Senior Member
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Jun 18, 2009
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NH - USA
PROTEGEFULL-2.jpg



A photo is worth more then words in this case. How about another while were at it?

PROTEGEADAPT-2.jpg



One more... look at the housing, its the first of the three parts in the photo.

PROTEGEMECHSWITCH-2.jpg


Sorry Sun, I dont mean to be a ..... and I completly respect all the work you have done for the e-cig industry, but in this case you are not correct. If you look at the photos of my device vs what they have in their photos they are two different things. What they mean by "Black Delrin" is the rest of the button, notice it says "Button Housing Will Be Anodized Black/Aluminum" ? You do NOT Anodize plastic!

"Anodizing, or anodising in British English, is an electrolytic passivation process used to increase the thickness of the natural oxide layer on the surface of metal parts."

Basicly what I think they are getting at is the extra switch will not look exactly like the original, which by the photo is all Aluminum. I think it was meant to let you know the button part would be black with the extra switch. In any case, both my kit switch and my extra switch are all plastic, both are not Aluminum at all. It not only aesthetically looks worse but again, the plastic is a little chincy.
 
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Thalinor

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Jun 18, 2009
101
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NH - USA
Thalinor--I know what you are talking about as I have both. The "aluminum" button is really just silver painted plastic--at least that is what I have.

The aluminum is the two rods in the the delrin plastic housing that I think they are referencing.


Sun


oh : (

With my luck the paint would chip off and look like hell. If they don't sell an aluminum housing button I mine as well keep the ones I have. In this case, I might have the same problem others are having with their buttons, and the same fix might work for me. I thought they had different ones because they said they filed down the aluminum on the button. I just assumed they had different switches and thus the fix would not work on mine.

Thanks for the info.
 
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CaSHMeRe

Vaping Master
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Jun 12, 2008
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USA
Hey Guys ... We do need to update the site now ....

The Mechanical switch is completely delrin (Insulation) We did this because quite an easy short can be caused when the contact disk (if accidentally hitting the contact posts) also hitting its own housing and shorting the unit. To solve this, we used delrin completely. Meaning = No wait to short itself out and last a lifetime ... thus ... the lifetime warranty :)
 

dgriego

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Dec 8, 2009
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New Mexico
I am having problems with my switch. I have taken it apart and put it back together several times, no hanging plastic bits, everything looks good, but I am having to press the hell out of it to get a hit. It was working very smooth the first couple days I used it, now it is giving me a hard time.
I have to push very hard and it seems that battery life is not lasting long, it hits good if I hold the switch down hard with good fresh batteries, can not get it to fire very often once the batts go down a bit.
It is not the batteries as I can take them out of the v2 and put them in my xhaler and they work fine.

Any ideas? Do I just ask for a new switch?

Also I have changed out attys to make sure it wasn't the atty. Same thing, fires great on the xhaler, not much on the v2. I think it is the switch not hitting right.
 

Thalinor

Senior Member
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Jun 18, 2009
101
30
NH - USA
Hey Guys ... We do need to update the site now ....

The Mechanical switch is completely delrin (Insulation) We did this because quite an easy short can be caused when the contact disk (if accidentally hitting the contact posts) also hitting its own housing and shorting the unit. To solve this, we used delrin completely. Meaning = No wait to short itself out and last a lifetime ... thus ... the lifetime warranty :)

No worries! Thanks for the info. I am glad you did what you did then; I would take a plastic switch over it shorting out any day. One of the reasons I went with your products is because of the high quality, little things like this matter and it’s good to know you thought of them. : )

I guess I will just have to get used to the switch. It does act up a bit and I have checked for any delrin by the connections and found none. The extra switch I picked up seems to have the same issue; it’s also a bit temperamental. I have noticed you have to press them exactly in the center of the switch and firmly. The housing and center button have to be pressed down; the housing actually depresses a little, along with the button. If your thumb presses the button on even the least bit of an angle it does not fire up. Because that top housing actually moves too, I think you feel like you are pressing the button in sometimes when in reality it’s really not making a good connection. The issues I am having may just be user error more then anything.

Anyway, will throw up a review soon. This device is amazing, thank you! Took it out to the bar last night and was very impressed at how well it fit in my pocket. I was not sure if it was going to be too big for carrying around but it’s perfect!

One side note, I have noticed that with the 801 attached I get far less vapor on battery vs on USB. This is to be expected of course, but is not as noticeable with the 510’s attached. Not a big deal because I don’t plan on using the 801 walking around anyway, the 510 is much smaller and better suited for travel. Is this because the 801 requires more power to really start cooking?

So I read in another post you finally had the time to get married? Grads on the wedding! Is there a honeymoon coming up?
 

dgriego

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Dec 8, 2009
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New Mexico
Dgriego ... Try loosening up the adapter just a quarter/half turn. Don't crank it down tight.


I watched the video on how to take the switch apart, followed it, the first time I had not taken out the two posts.

I cleaned out the inside of the plastic, sanded the posts a touch, put some noalax on them, put it back together and now it seems to be working good.
 

dgriego

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Dec 8, 2009
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After using it for awhile it seems I am back to hit or miss on the switch. I am wondering if perhaps this has something to do with my 510 connector instead of my switch.
I have switched out attys and noticed that a couple of my 510s will not fire at all on the V2 but they work fine on the Xhaler.
Do you think I might have the 510 adampter issue? I am going to look for that thread and see if maybe that is my problem.
 

Brian S.

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Jul 13, 2008
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U.S. Mississippi
After using it for awhile it seems I am back to hit or miss on the switch. I am wondering if perhaps this has something to do with my 510 connector instead of my switch.
I have switched out attys and noticed that a couple of my 510s will not fire at all on the V2 but they work fine on the Xhaler.
Do you think I might have the 510 adampter issue? I am going to look for that thread and see if maybe that is my problem.

My switch was hit or miss when I got it. I turned the end posts so that the curved side is facing up and makes contact with the buttion. Haven't had a problem since. Inside the switch, the end posts are flat on one side and curved on the other.

Brian
 

dgriego

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Dec 8, 2009
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New Mexico
My switch was hit or miss when I got it. I turned the end posts so that the curved side is facing up and makes contact with the buttion. Haven't had a problem since. Inside the switch, the end posts are flat on one side and curved on the other.

Brian

I guess I can try that tonight, I am getting a little discouraged with it at the moment. But it is worth a try.
 

dgriego

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Dec 8, 2009
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New Mexico
DG -- Have you tried adjusting the adapter? Just a turn or so? Trust me - It can do wonders.

Yes I tried that and it did not solve the problem. I think I have it working now.

I tool the switch apart, took the little posts out, cleaned inside again, put the posts in with the flat sides down this time, and it is working great now. Put fresh batts in and vaped from about noon until just a few moments ago (7ish). Have had no problems yet.

Not sure if it was switching the posts or the new spring I had to install as my spring went flying into the air and I have not yet found it. I replaced it with one from a pen cut down a bit.
 

harpo

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Dec 19, 2009
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Yes I tried that and it did not solve the problem. I think I have it working now.

I tool the switch apart, took the little posts out, cleaned inside again, put the posts in with the flat sides down this time, and it is working great now. Put fresh batts in and vaped from about noon until just a few moments ago (7ish). Have had no problems yet.

Not sure if it was switching the posts or the new spring I had to install as my spring went flying into the air and I have not yet found it. I replaced it with one from a pen cut down a bit.

Same here. If you look at the contacts with the round side up it actually sticks out past the delrin. I believe this is the ticket. Will report back with results.

Edit: I just noticed you don't have to push the switch in as far.
 
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