Proteus official

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Aal_

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Actually i am a little bit afraid of the VIR power in proteus. Weak batteries so i can't go under 1ohms. i hope that my penelope will get satisfied :evil:
Imeo can you say something about the power and your coils maybe? Anyway i am happy to get one!
Ohms has nothing to do with it. You should care for how much watts it is delivering.
 

Frillo

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JMBH

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Wait a Minute imeo.. How is that possible with those aw 14500?? They aren't consepted for such low ohms. Freaked out right now.

The way I understood , VIR works regulating the temperature up to a max. of 270º C , within a range of resistance from 0.4 ohms up to 2 ohms never mind . Chip will detect the resistance and wire type and work at temp. selected . The question is , the watts or amps at the highest temp. setting ? I don't remember that part .:)
 

imeothanasis

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the amperage limit is 9 amperes and the voltage is 8 volts guys. With 1 battery VIR will go up to 25 watts and with 2 batteries can go up to 35 watts.

Watts depends on liquid inside atomizer. The more the liquid, the more the needed watts. So on Proteus you may be able to vape at max temp if your wick isnt very saturated or flooded. Of course it can vape at max temp even if your wick is very saturated but the vaping time will be reduced. To my opinion, Proteus has to work at about 240-250 Celsious degrees.
 

JMBH

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the amperage limit is 9 amperes and the voltage is 8 volts guys. With 1 battery VIR will go up to 25 watts and with 2 batteries can go up to 35 watts.

Watts depends on liquid inside atomizer. The more the liquid, the more the needed watts. So on Proteus you may be able to vape at max temp if your wick isnt very saturated or flooded. Of course it can vape at max temp even if your wick is very saturated but the vaping time will be reduced. To my opinion, Proteus has to work at about 240-250 Celsious degrees.

Thanks Imeo , yes and its all said there in your video about VIR . I just watched it again now.:)
 

AB Dada

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Wait a Minute imeo.. How is that possible with those aw 14500?? They aren't consepted for such low ohms. Freaked out right now.

Stop looking at regulated devices the same as you look at unregulated ("mech") devices.

Low ohms are required on mech mods to get power out of a 3.7 volt battery. Ohm's law says so.

On a regulated mod like Proteus using the VIR chip, the chip can boost voltage well above 3.7 volts, but it can also buck voltage far down below 3.7 volts (to the atty).

Since VIR will be controlling temperature, it may not have to go very high, amperage wise. 25W on a 3.7V battery is 6.75A (P=I*V). But will you be NEEDING 25W always? VIR will constantly raise and lower wattage to the coil based on the temperature you want and how much juice is feed the coil at that 1/1000th of a second.

In a flooded coil situation (low temperature sensed), VIR will boost wattage temporarily to reduce the flooded coil. In a dry wick situation, VIR will lower wattage temporarily to allow for juice to flow into the wick.

Since VIR is sensing the temperature of the coil 1000 times a second, it will adjust wattage (power) based on what is needed to get the temperature you desire for your vapor production.

This is also why it makes sense to stick with a GG atty -- less risk of flooding your wicks, so less need to boost power, waste battery and waste juice.
 

AB Dada

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Very good explained AB. Thanks buddy ;)

Happy to provide some insight -- of course, your mileage may vary, because VIR and Proteus aren't released yet, but based on my knowledge of electricity, this is how it should all work out.

Remember, when your coil and wick are flooded, there is a LOT more juice to take the power from the coil -- this means that at a particular voltage, the temperature of the coil and wick and juice will be lower. When your coil and wick are dry, there is a lot LESS to heat up, so the temperature will skyrocket (burning cotton in most mods).

What VIR does that VV and VW can't do (remember, VIR is a mode) is sense when the coil is pulling too much power, creating too much heat, and it throttles power back, 1000 times a second. It will also sense when a coil isn't getting temperature up high (means too much juice) and will ramp up wattage to try clear the problem.

Wattage isn't that important anymore -- as long as VIR can send enough power to get to your preferred temperature, but never higher, you will never worry about wattage again. Even resistance isn't as important, as long as you stick in the range that VIR can buck and boost voltage to support at a given temperature.
 

steliosss

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Stop looking at regulated devices the same as you look at unregulated ("mech") devices.

Low ohms are required on mech mods to get power out of a 3.7 volt battery. Ohm's law says so.

On a regulated mod like Proteus using the VIR chip, the chip can boost voltage well above 3.7 volts, but it can also buck voltage far down below 3.7 volts (to the atty).

Since VIR will be controlling temperature, it may not have to go very high, amperage wise. 25W on a 3.7V battery is 6.75A (P=I*V). But will you be NEEDING 25W always? VIR will constantly raise and lower wattage to the coil based on the temperature you want and how much juice is feed the coil at that 1/1000th of a second.

In a flooded coil situation (low temperature sensed), VIR will boost wattage temporarily to reduce the flooded coil. In a dry wick situation, VIR will lower wattage temporarily to allow for juice to flow into the wick.

Since VIR is sensing the temperature of the coil 1000 times a second, it will adjust wattage (power) based on what is needed to get the temperature you desire for your vapor production.

This is also why it makes sense to stick with a GG atty -- less risk of flooding your wicks, so less need to boost power, waste battery and waste juice.

Happy to provide some insight -- of course, your mileage may vary, because VIR and Proteus aren't released yet, but based on my knowledge of electricity, this is how it should all work out.

Remember, when your coil and wick are flooded, there is a LOT more juice to take the power from the coil -- this means that at a particular voltage, the temperature of the coil and wick and juice will be lower. When your coil and wick are dry, there is a lot LESS to heat up, so the temperature will skyrocket (burning cotton in most mods).

What VIR does that VV and VW can't do (remember, VIR is a mode) is sense when the coil is pulling too much power, creating too much heat, and it throttles power back, 1000 times a second. It will also sense when a coil isn't getting temperature up high (means too much juice) and will ramp up wattage to try clear the problem.

Wattage isn't that important anymore -- as long as VIR can send enough power to get to your preferred temperature, but never higher, you will never worry about wattage again. Even resistance isn't as important, as long as you stick in the range that VIR can buck and boost voltage to support at a given temperature.

I wish I could "like" more than ones on these great posts!!!!!
Bravo!!!! :)
 

Frillo

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11. watt range: 5-25 with 1 battery and 5-35 with 2 batteries increased by 1 watt per push of the button (please operate proteus up to 15 watts)


23. It was VV/VW mode. I left only VW mode and I added 1 more secret feature. Ι will let you know about it when time comes.



Corona, most of the times the NR-R-NR wire will work but it has to be made by Ti1 and silver or nickel.
Proteus meant to be VW device but it turned out as a temp control device. Also I cant make a VW device because evolv keeps the VW patent. :)

Sorry but I don't understand (you know my english is terrible :D) ... the Proteus is a VW device or not?

Better said: I understand that Proteus is a temp regulated device, but we still have to regulate watts (3 clicks up or 4 down) to preset our favourite temperature. Isn't it?
 
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