ProVari Variable Voltage Mod

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ukeman

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ya, i use a lot of 2.2 510s.. the graph on the provari site shows 2.2 having the widest range of applications for the provari, starting at 3.3v... i use mine anywhere from 3.5 to 4.4 or so....

i also like a 2.8 to 3.0 901 atty, in same ranges....

i intend to test put HV attys too; as soon as i get an order in.
Well I got my Provari today and I see what all the fuss is about. I won't be getting anymore LR attys. My 1.5s cause an overcurrent above 3.8 volts and don't put out much vapor at that but my standard 510s measuring 2.2 at 4.5v pound out the vapor and the taste is fantastic. I am really happy.
 

jimho

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ya, i use a lot of 2.2 510s.. the graph on the provari site shows 2.2 having the widest range of applications for the provari, starting at 3.3v... i use mine anywhere from 3.5 to 4.4 or so....

i also like a 2.8 to 3.0 901 atty, in same ranges....

i intend to test put HV attys too; as soon as i get an order in.

Uke- HV's rock!!!! Now that my batteries are cycled the run times seem to be getting longer... go with 4.2 or 3.6 if you can get your hands on them....
 

ukeman

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good tip jimho...
i think most who have never tried HV, just think of hv as hot and heavy... bad rap.
then you hear guys ranting about LR's on a SB 6 v... ha!
One of these days I'll write up a thesis on why HV is better but the short of it (theoretically) is they generally run cooler and transfer energy more efficiently without burning the juice because the energy is spread over a longer section of wire.
 

Tat_skull

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I've had my ProVari for over a month now, and I love it. It's like it's become a permanent extension of my hand. But I have a question. I have used a variety of atty's and carto's, but can someone tell me why the resistance fluctuates so much when checking it on the ProVari? I've noticed this with all atty's, for example hv306 started at 3.5 yesterday and measures 2.4 today. The funny part is, there is no difference in performance. Last hv306 did the same and did not change performance until it read 2.1. So is the resistance checker accurate?
 

cuseguy

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I've had my ProVari for over a month now, and I love it. It's like it's become a permanent extension of my hand. But I have a question. I have used a variety of atty's and carto's, but can someone tell me why the resistance fluctuates so much when checking it on the ProVari? I've noticed this with all atty's, for example hv306 started at 3.5 yesterday and measures 2.4 today. The funny part is, there is no difference in performance. Last hv306 did the same and did not change performance until it read 2.1. So is the resistance checker accurate?
Yes, it's probably right. Resistance is always in a constant state of flux. It can change due to a variety of reasons but A #1 is heat! So naturally with the constant exposure to heat, resistance of an atty changes short-term (while it is burning hot) and long-term (Heat degrades the metal wire). So the answer is yes, the ProVari resistance function is accurate minus the device's own internal resistance (usually a few tenths)
 

jimho

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Yes, it's probably right. Resistance is always in a constant state of flux. It can change due to a variety of reasons but A #1 is heat! So naturally with the constant exposure to heat, resistance of an atty changes short-term (while it is burning hot) and long-term (Heat degrades the metal wire). So the answer is yes, the ProVari resistance function is accurate minus the device's own internal resistance (usually a few tenths)

Except as the wire degrades, the resistance increase. you get little cracks that effectively reduce the diameter of the wire.... And when nichrome heats up- the resistance increaes as much as 10%.

Has me scratching my head too.
Definitely has something to do with the heat but not the heat on the wire-.... perhaps the wick or the juice that cakes up on the coil......

I've had particularly strange things happen with 306's that start out at 2.2 and as they get to 1.5 ohm become unuseable in the provari ( I start getting E1's and E2's) - I've seen similar results on other attys as well- alot of attys I have started out as 3.6' and are now 3.1's.
Wish I had an explaination.... anyone with a PHD in thermo dynamics out there?
 

NebulaBrot

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Except as the wire degrades, the resistance increase. you get little cracks that effectively reduce the diameter of the wire.... And when nichrome heats up- the resistance increaes as much as 10%.

Has me scratching my head too.
Definitely has something to do with the heat but not the heat on the wire-.... perhaps the wick or the juice that cakes up on the coil......

I've had particularly strange things happen with 306's that start out at 2.2 and as they get to 1.5 ohm become unuseable in the provari ( I start getting E1's and E2's) - I've seen similar results on other attys as well- alot of attys I have started out as 3.6' and are now 3.1's.
Wish I had an explaination.... anyone with a PHD in thermo dynamics out there?
Jimho, I have long said what you posted last night - HV is a nicer vape (to me) than the same watts LR. As I am no engineer, I lack the knowledge to explain it but certainly appreciate your post from last night and look forward to more posts from you on the subject.

What I have found is that my favorite atty (Joye 302) at 5(ish) volts gives me the most flavor I have ever vaped. But, they take some time to really break in and the "right" airflow is imperative to achieve that result. Adapters make a huge difference. I posted a layman's comparison of the 510 to 801 adapters I have. That post is in tech issues under attys (got moved to atty subsection by admin). Additionally, device connectors all seem to have different airflow as well so finding the "right" combo of adapter to work best with device connector (to achieve "right" airflow) also varies. But, when it is "right" the 302 shines like no other I have ever tried. The biggest problem I have found with 302s is they drop performance fast. Ohms readings start at 3.1 (fairly consistently) when new and then drops to the 2.6 range often in the first day but sometimes after a few days. By the end of a week, flavor and vapor really start dropping even if volts are adjusted down to compensate.

I also suspect vaping style impacts these factors as well. I have a nasty habit of multi-hitting and rolling vapor - sort of like a pipe smoker. Never did this as an analog smoker but just luv doing it while vaping. I suspect this may really be heating the coil (cumulative coil heat) and could possibly even be fusing the coils to some extent. I have never dissected any attys to compare how tightly the coils lay next to each other. I wonder if there is a difference in the nichrome spacing of the coils between different atty models. For example, SLB 801s seem to last much longer under same vaping conditions but produce less flavor compared to the 302. I also suspect atty maintenance (accumulated juice build-up which could also be impacted by different juices/ingredients) could be another contributing factor.

I really look forward to seeing advances in atty development. PCB devices are such awesome advancements on the device end; I just wish we were seeing as much advancement in atty development as well.

Looking forward to your posts about HV vs LR.
 

IndustrialAction

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Is anyone else using what I call the "Quick-On" method? Instead of using the menu to turn it on, I just unscrew the bottom about 2/3 of the way and then screw it back in. ProVari autos on at your last setting. Now if only powering down were as quick (mind you I'm not complaining about the menu, just a fan of short-cuts).
 

SteveFromNY

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Just received my shipping notice for my black provari, about a week sooner than I expected.

Thanks provape.

Please post pics or a short video when you receive it!

I'm ordering another one in black, too.
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