ProVarinati Diner & Saloon and Beyond

[BreSha6869]

Just got done chatting with Zen.....if you have a slant top that you want converted to P3 you better hurry. He doesn't have many parts left.

Glad I sent a bunch of my 2.5's to Provape last year to get them converted to P3. IIRC it was under $20 each and Provape ate the return shipping.

Zen is a bit more pricy, but I highly recommend the P3 top over the tapered top and he is currently the only real game in town...

 

[WillyZee]

Glad I sent a bunch of my 2.5's to Provape last year to get them converted to P3. IIRC it was under $20 each and Provape ate the return shipping.

Zen is a bit more pricy, but I highly recommend the P3 top over the tapered top and he is currently the only real game in town...

the P3 connection is great with the very limited P3 threaded tanks ... however, the ring and nut fix to use it as 510 is weaker than the 510 on the ProVari 2.5

IMO,that orange oring is the weak spot ... and personally, because of that, I would not convert any more ProVaris to the P3 connection.

Now that ProVape is gone ... there will likely never be RTAs or RDAs produced with the P3 connection.

 

[oplholik]

i would like to see a 510 to p3 adapter(the opposite of what HoH made)this way i could attach all my 510 atomizers directly on the p3 connection;i think it would be more sturdy, plus for me it would eliminate the tiny gap i have between the tank and the beauty ring.

you can still get a p3 vika fantasy(regular and titanium).
the price is relatively descent and the quality is good.
i got a 510 vika from them;it arrived quickly with DHL(free shipping) and I'm satisfied with it.
it's a cheaper kabuki.
VIKA

I have two 510 Vika Fantasies coming from FT, but I am so tempted to get one of these. If I like the clone I may just go for the original. I really like the looks.

 

[Bronze]

Glad I sent a bunch of my 2.5's to Provape last year to get them converted to P3. IIRC it was under $20 each and Provape ate the return shipping.

Zen is a bit more pricy, but I highly recommend the P3 top over the tapered top and he is currently the only real game in town...

There are still some popular mini atomizers that are the width of the tapered top. I think it looks better to be honest with you. A Kayfun Mini V3 on the tapered top is sharp looking. Wife's setup.

 

[Ca Ike]

i would like to see a 510 to p3 adapter(the opposite of what HoH made)this way i could attach all my 510 atomizers directly on the p3 connection;i think it would be more sturdy, plus for me it would eliminate the tiny gap i have between the tank and the beauty ring.

you can still get a p3 vika fantasy(regular and titanium).
the price is relatively descent and the quality is good.
i got a 510 vika from them;it arrived quickly with DHL(free shipping) and I'm satisfied with it.
it's a cheaper kabuki.
VIKA

The reason for the beauty ring in the first place, and why it was invented is to take up that gap and support the tank due to the lack of standards for the 510 connector itself. That's a fact most newer vapers don't get.

The way provape did it is fine and if you want you can always put the ring and nut on the atty before putting it on the mod. I have a few tanks I did that to.

Also one of the best tanks out there still available with the p3 is the Calix v2 from By Leo. Calix V2 Cage P3 - By Leo. There is a V3 out now so I don't know how much longer the v2 will be availabe

 

[CMD-Ky]

There are still some popular mini atomizers that are the width of the tapered top. I think it looks better to be honest with you. A Kayfun Mini V3 on the tapered top is sharp looking. Wife's setup.

View attachment 656159

My daughter has this setup on, wait for this, on a Bronze Provari. It is the first Provari I bought several years ago and is going strong. (Knocking on my head, not having any other wood within striking distance.)

 

[RadiusNick]

The reason for the beauty ring in the first place, and why it was invented is to take up that gap and support the tank due to the lack of standards for the 510 connector itself. That's a fact most newer vapers don't get.

The way provape did it is fine and if you want you can always put the ring and nut on the atty before putting it on the mod. I have a few tanks I did that to.

Also one of the best tanks out there still available with the p3 is the Calix v2 from By Leo. Calix V2 Cage P3 - By Leo. There is a V3 out now so I don't know how much longer the v2 will be availabe

i didn't take in consideration that the lack of standard for the length of the Tanks 510, will make a 510/p3 adapter impossible.
i still would have preferred getting rid of those two Provari ring/nut and be able to attach the tank directly to the device.
especially since i got a seemingly common issue(maybe the threading somewhere:device or nut)that leaves a tiny gap.(it's annoying and seems less secure)

 

[jwbnyc]

I think By Leo may still have a p3 atty available. .. er.. what Ike said.

 

[Bea-FL]

There are still some popular mini atomizers that are the width of the tapered top. I think it looks better to be honest with you. A Kayfun Mini V3 on the tapered top is sharp looking. Wife's setup.

View attachment 656159

I agree. This is my GSAir-MS on my mini. The ego one tanks also come in 2ml capacity and 19 mm diameter and work well on my Ps.

 

[Ca Ike]

i didn't take in consideration that the lack of standard for the length of the Tanks 510, will make a 510/p3 adapter impossible.
i still would have preferred getting rid of those two Provari ring/nut and be able to attach the tank directly to the device.
especially since i got a seemingly common issue(maybe the threading somewhere:device or nut)that leaves a tiny gap.(it's annoying and seems less secure)
View attachment 656165

It's not the mod at all. All mods suffer from this same issue. To combat it, adjustability of the positive post was added in some form to most mods, even the last few provaris. Hence the o-ring under the pin. You can screw down the tank more as there is about 1 mm of give in that o-ring.

The only spec standard on the 510 is the thread size which is 7mm x .5 iirc. The rest to this day has not been standardized. Provape in their p3 and Zen with his z2 designed full spec connections with thread size, connector length and other details which is what's needed for a proper standard. Both connections are far superior to the 510.

If you want to see for yourself, take all your tanks, remove the positive pins and measure the threads. There will be up to .5mm variance on average. Then replace the pins and check again. You will find an additional .5mm-1mm variance. That is why you get gaps of varying sizes and why the adjustable beauty ring came along as well as the adjustable positive pins. Both together solved the issue of non standard lengths and added strength to a very weak connection. It was the cheapest solution for mod makers to implement.

Tank manufacturers simply refuse to move to a better standard. Provape gave away the specs of the p3 for free to anyone that wanted to use it but few took the initiative.

 

[coldgin96]

The Eyes Of Alice Cooper

 

[RadiusNick]

It's not the mod at all. All mods suffer from this same issue. To combat it, adjustability of the positive post was added in some form to most mods, even the last few provaris. Hence the o-ring under the pin. You can screw down the tank more as there is about 1 mm of give in that o-ring.

The only spec standard on the 510 is the thread size which is 7mm x .5 iirc. The rest to this day has not been standardized. Provape in their p3 and Zen with his z2 designed full spec connections with thread size, connector length and other details which is what's needed for a proper standard. Both connections are far superior to the 510.

If you want to see for yourself, take all your tanks, remove the positive pins and measure the threads. There will be up to .5mm variance on average. Then replace the pins and check again. You will find an additional .5mm-1mm variance. That is why you get gaps of varying sizes and why the adjustable beauty ring came along as well as the adjustable positive pins. Both together solved the issue of non standard lengths and added strength to a very weak connection. It was the cheapest solution for mod makers to implement.

Tank manufacturers simply refuse to move to a better standard. Provape gave away the specs of the p3 for free to anyone that wanted to use it but few took the initiative.

i completely agree, that's why i was looking for a solution to be able to attach all my tanks directly to the p3 and get rid of two extra parts,but that seems impossible to create because there are so many different 510 length(in the tanks).
and in my case,because of faulty threads somewhere, i get a gap between the tank and the beauty ring,so i still get a non stable connection(tank wise).
but yes, to someone else, with no threads issues,the ring and nut would give a firm and flush support to the tank.


i was talking about a conveter like this one,but like the opposite of it:510 to p3 (for all my tanks):

 

[Bea-FL]

It's not the mod at all. All mods suffer from this same issue. To combat it, adjustability of the positive post was added in some form to most mods, even the last few provaris. Hence the o-ring under the pin. You can screw down the tank more as there is about 1 mm of give in that o-ring.

The only spec standard on the 510 is the thread size which is 7mm x .5 iirc. The rest to this day has not been standardized. Provape in their p3 and Zen with his z2 designed full spec connections with thread size, connector length and other details which is what's needed for a proper standard. Both connections are far superior to the 510.

If you want to see for yourself, take all your tanks, remove the positive pins and measure the threads. There will be up to .5mm variance on average. Then replace the pins and check again. You will find an additional .5mm-1mm variance. That is why you get gaps of varying sizes and why the adjustable beauty ring came along as well as the adjustable positive pins. Both together solved the issue of non standard lengths and added strength to a very weak connection. It was the cheapest solution for mod makers to implement.

Tank manufacturers simply refuse to move to a better standard. Provape gave away the specs of the p3 for free to anyone that wanted to use it but few took the initiative.

So maybe this explains my puzzle. I have 4 satin minis, a hot pink zencote and a red zencote. The tank in the photo above, as you can see in that photo, sits nice and flush on the mini. But when screwed on the red or the pink minis there is a visible gap about the same size as in Nick's photo. I even tried several of my other GS Air tanks and even my Ego Ones…same thing. And when any of these tanks are screwed in other mods they're flush.

Really weird that it only happens with the coated ones.

 

[Bea-FL]

You all may have seen this article but I just discovered it. Nice write-up on Provape.

The History of ProVape

 

[rbrylawski]

It's not the mod at all. All mods suffer from this same issue. To combat it, adjustability of the positive post was added in some form to most mods, even the last few provaris. Hence the o-ring under the pin. You can screw down the tank more as there is about 1 mm of give in that o-ring.

The only spec standard on the 510 is the thread size which is 7mm x .5 iirc. The rest to this day has not been standardized. Provape in their p3 and Zen with his z2 designed full spec connections with thread size, connector length and other details which is what's needed for a proper standard. Both connections are far superior to the 510.

If you want to see for yourself, take all your tanks, remove the positive pins and measure the threads. There will be up to .5mm variance on average. Then replace the pins and check again. You will find an additional .5mm-1mm variance. That is why you get gaps of varying sizes and why the adjustable beauty ring came along as well as the adjustable positive pins. Both together solved the issue of non standard lengths and added strength to a very weak connection. It was the cheapest solution for mod makers to implement.

Tank manufacturers simply refuse to move to a better standard. Provape gave away the specs of the p3 for free to anyone that wanted to use it but few took the initiative.

This was excellent. Just sayin'!

 

[The Ocelot]

So maybe this explains my puzzle. I have 4 satin minis, a hot pink zencote and a red zencote. The tank in the photo above, as you can see in that photo, sits nice and flush on the mini. But when screwed on the red or the pink minis there is a visible gap about the same size as in Nick's photo. I even tried several of my other GS Air tanks and even my Ego Ones…same thing. And when any of these tanks are screwed in other mods they're flush.

Really weird that it only happens with the coated ones.

The hot pink and red are not ZenKote. ProVape came out with metallic and glossy finishes, but the only ZenKote colors they used were Gun Metal Grey and Gold. ZenKote™ Colors

 

[Bea-FL]

The hot pink and red are not ZenKote. ProVape came out with metallic and glossy finishes, but the only ZenKote colors they used were Gun Metal Grey and Gold. ZenKote™ Colors

Ok wrong wording. What's this coating called. I could swear there is a name for it. Having a senior moment.

 

[WillyZee]

You all may have seen this article but I just discovered it. Nice write-up on Provape.

The History of ProVape

there is some stuff missing from that timeline ... example, no mention of The ProVari Classic.

 

[gnees]

there is some stuff missing from that timeline ... example, no mention of The ProVari Classic.

View attachment 656215

I love my Classics!!!

Just sayin

 

[oplholik]

The Classics are my favorite.