Yesterday I thought I was getting my very first dry hit on a kayfun Lite v2 +
I took another vape and confirmed, yup this thing is burnt dry.
It reminded me of several years ago, a couple of ECF members accused me of lying when I said I have never had a dry hit on my Kayfuns.
I quickly tore it down and built a new coil (7 wraps of 30ga on the little blue screwdriver). I thought it was strange how it seemed to glow brighter when I pulsed it ... I put it together anyway as this is how I've always made coils.
Loaded it with juice and took a vape ... eww, the dry hit was still there. Maybe the Kanthal has gone bad?
Nope ... had it cranked to 4.6 volts
I took another vape and confirmed, yup this thing is burnt dry.
It reminded me of several years ago, a couple of ECF members accused me of lying when I said I have never had a dry hit on my Kayfuns.
I quickly tore it down and built a new coil (7 wraps of 30ga on the little blue screwdriver). I thought it was strange how it seemed to glow brighter when I pulsed it ... I put it together anyway as this is how I've always made coils.
Loaded it with juice and took a vape ... eww, the dry hit was still there. Maybe the Kanthal has gone bad?
Nope ... had it cranked to 4.6 volts
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Not certain I follow that. On the old Provaris you could adjust voltage only. Then they went to adjustable watts beginning with the P3 (I believe). Watts is really the final result that matters. In non-technical terms watts is what is doing the work and the final result that matters for us tootle puffers and volts and ohms are how you get to that. I (and most people) set their preferred wattage and save that in memory. From there you can change your atty or coil and just let the P3 or Radius adjust the voltage for you to get your saved wattage. Now that I said that some smarty pants will get all wonky on me and "correct" my thinking. LMAO!
Ha! I also said I never had a dry hit on my KFLs and within 24 hours the thread was nearly shut down because I was called a liar and every other name you can think of. That statement made me many enemies that did in fact lead to thread closures. I finally put my Kayfun threads on a sponsor forum where we could chase away the riff raff (but you know this).
I did in fact have a dry hit on my KFL but I was intentionally trying to get a dry hit. I was experimenting with different volumes of cotton to see if more is better or if less is better. I could never get a dry hit with "more" but I could with "less...the exact opposite that people thought and advised to those who were getting dry hits.
I usually run into problems when I have old/new Provari as well as Picos and coils ranging from .3 to 2+ (yes, I have done a little sub-ohm
) and am swapping tanks and mods without thinking what mod last had a sub ohm tank on it. Most of the time I remember to check, but 
if I forget to look first. The Procyon's also nailed me with a 
until I learned that the electronics on it are so much better than the others that I had to drop the power way back if I'm running that HP base cap spring. 
I should also mention that up until last year when the dooming was announced, I was all happy vaping on my VV ego style batteries with an H2 topper. You all have helped me learn so much so fast and made my vaping even better than just a means to avoid tobacco. You all rock!
Someone already bought them out.. says items missing from drop down list are out of stock, and there are no items in the drop down list..
Sucks they dropped them down even further.. I bought my 2.5 from there, got the very last blue one with a matching blue extension cap for 107.99..
But then.. no way did I want pink or purple or cherry red.. those are not my colors so I guess I'm happy with my blue one, even at a higher price! Lol.
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Not certain I follow that. On the old Provaris you could adjust voltage only. Then they went to adjustable watts beginning with the P3 (I believe). Watts is really the final result that matters. In non-technical terms watts is what is doing the work and the final result that matters for us tootle puffers and volts and ohms are how you get to that. I (and most people) set their preferred wattage and save that in memory. From there you can change your atty or coil and just let the P3 or Radius adjust the voltage for you to get your saved wattage. Now that I said that some smarty pants will get all wonky on me and "correct" my thinking. LMAO!
Ha! I also said I never had a dry hit on my KFLs and within 24 hours the thread was nearly shut down because I was called a liar and every other name you can think of. That statement made me many enemies that did in fact lead to thread closures. I finally put my Kayfun threads on a sponsor forum where we could chase away the riff raff (but you know this).
Honestly, I don't know what generation or update level I have, but on my p3 you can set by either volts or watts.. since the volts adjustments comes across the little screen first, I always adjust my volts.
I have never used an ohms calculator. I use my head and take a bit of an educated guess as to where my volts should be, and I set it in that range, take a couple puffs and readjust according to what tastes good.
When I do this, it seems to change my wattage settings for me.. as my wattage reading will change accordingly.
This morning I clicked your ohms calculator to see where I should be, and my provari is sitting almost exactly (in both watts and volts) where it should be according to that calculator. (I think it said my volts should be at 4.093 and I was set to 4.1 and wattage was that close as well..)
Yet I have never once set the wattage. I will check the next time I do a build and have to adjust my settings, to see if my wattage has changed, but if I remember correctly last time I looked at my wattage (a month or so back) it was somewhere around 11.1... now this morning when I checked when I was looking at your calculator it's around 12.2..
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Not certain I follow that. On the old Provaris you could adjust voltage only. Then they went to adjustable watts beginning with the P3 (I believe). Watts is really the final result that matters. In non-technical terms watts is what is doing the work and the final result that matters for us tootle puffers and volts and ohms are how you get to that. I (and most people) set their preferred wattage and save that in memory. From there you can change your atty or coil and just let the P3 or Radius adjust the voltage for you to get your saved wattage. Now that I said that some smarty pants will get all wonky on me and "correct" my thinking. LMAO!
Ha! I also said I never had a dry hit on my KFLs and within 24 hours the thread was nearly shut down because I was called a liar and every other name you can think of. That statement made me many enemies that did in fact lead to thread closures. I finally put my Kayfun threads on a sponsor forum where we could chase away the riff raff (but you know this).
And why, pray tell, kind Sir, did you not invite DPL and me to THOSE (uber fun) threads?? We would have helped you to mince the meat.
(And correctamundo on the volts/watts/versions, Bronzed One.)
Sent via iPhone
When I could just see the top of the picture I thought a midnight blue Radius was going to be photoshopped on the bottom; same color.
Yes, I agree. It is crazy that a company that focused in quality and gave us superb products had to close. I guess that happens when business TRULY think in their customers and not in those customers wallets.
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How does a building like that not fall down?
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I had plenty of help, quite truthfully. Mr. Qorax and probably some on this thread. The final nail was when I got the threads on the HHV subforum and I got them to make my friend Lori a subforum moderator. Long story short, Lori is the last person you want to mess with. Single mother of five girls now adults. She's seen and heard it all. What was left of the troublemakers was quickly dispatched by Ms. Lori.
Because it was built by that rabbit using Provape quality standards?
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Bronzed,
Still and all........ glad for you, and Ms. 5 femme Lori, but we WOULD have enjoyed the mince.
And YEAH, Qorax! (do adore that man)
Still and all........ glad for you, and Ms. 5 femme Lori, but we WOULD have enjoyed the mince.
And YEAH, Qorax! (do adore that man)
Well @Bronze - If what your saying is correct, and that ultimately watts is all that matters and what we are solving for (rather than a fluid optimum performance where four factors are/can be fluid although must work together for optimum performance) than I have completely misunderstood the maths involved and what we do them for..
I figured if you knew your target watts, you could adjust volts accordingly, and vice versa - because performance (volts and watts) working together with amps and resistance is what creates an optimum performance..
Maybe I'm wrong and just misunderstanding the entire concept.. if volts doesn't matter and only watts do.
I'm going to have to figure out why volts don't matter at all in the equation..this is going to bother me..
I figured if you knew your target watts, you could adjust volts accordingly, and vice versa - because performance (volts and watts) working together with amps and resistance is what creates an optimum performance..
Maybe I'm wrong and just misunderstanding the entire concept.. if volts doesn't matter and only watts do.
I'm going to have to figure out why volts don't matter at all in the equation..this is going to bother me..
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Oh no! Volts do matter. I guess that Bronze meant to say that the target is watts because those reflect the power and thus how much electricity in the circuit is converted into heat which in turn is what we seek.
If you cover one of the letters you have the formula to get it!
I equals to current, V to voltage and R to resistance
Now, power (watts) can be calculated in 3 ways:
2 2
P = I x R = I x V = V / R
So if your resistance is fixed and you increase the voltage you will increase the current running in the circuit and because of the Joules Effect that electrical energy will be lost because it will turn into calorific energy (heat)
At least this is how I am understanding this vaping business, and because I'm still learning I'm not using any mech mods.
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Oh no! Volts do matter. I guess that Bronze meant to say that the target is watts because those reflect the power and thus how much electricity in the circuit is converted into heat which in turn is what we seek.
If you cover one of the letters you have the formula to get it!
I equals to current, V to voltage and R to resistance
Now, power (watts) can be calculated in 3 ways:
2 2
P = I x R = I x V = V / R
So if your resistance is fixed and you increase the voltage you will increase the current running in the circuit and because of the Joules Effect that electrical energy will be lost because it will turn into calorific energy (heat)
At least this is how I am understanding this vaping business, and because I'm still learning I'm not using any mech mods.
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This is exactly what I thought/think too!
Maybe I was just misunderstanding bronze then..
Both are right. Bronze focused in watts as they are the target and let the device calculate the voltage. You focused in voltage and therefore as you changed that variable you were also changing the power.
when in a regulated mod you set the desired wattage, you will have the same power even if you change the atty (different resistances) because the mod will accommodate in order to give you the wattage you asked for. So as Bronze said (or as I understood him) it is easier to think in watts
I guess that in mechs the problem is that voltage is fixed (from 4.2 to 3.7) and in order to get more power people seek to have lower resistance coils but that will make the battery to send more current and if that current exceeds the battery maximum discharge rate it may go into thermal runaway. If there is a short resistance will go very low and current will go up, no chip to detect the problem and bum [emoji95]
I really need to ask an engineer about this stuff
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