FWIW I went out and got some RED rtv hi temp silicone today,good to 650F. intermittent,Will try as BIGD pointed out and I will be using it as a layer on top of my fireplace mortar repair..
Pyrex Tube/Inner Coil/SS Mesh Genesis Mod
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will do as soon as I build another..probably tomorrow..I went to see a lady at my wifes work today and hooked her up with my spare vmax and a dca 306,a few ce-2's and some bottom coil phoneix's batt's,the whole 9 yards..Told her she could use them for a few weeks,and if she likes it,I can sell it to her..but the main reason is to get her off the ciggies.. 
Went to Lowes today and they did not have any of the fireplace mortar in stock
. I did get some red hi-temp silicone, though (same 650°F internittant, made by Pro Seal). May try it on its own in a test rig.
After like 3 tries at a coil I was finally able to get it to fit the 2 x 1 tube. Man that's a tight fit with these old eyeballs. Have the epoxy curing since about lunch time. Tried a few metal crimps on the top end, but it's a fail so far. Just not enough room to feed it into the tube without chipping the glass, but I didn't heat it up a lot yet. Thinking I'll have to resort to the fireplace stuff too. Not giving up on the crimp tube idea just yet. I might play around with the larger tube also. I have one of my AGA attys wick holes hogged out quite a bit and even have it a true dual wick setup.
Very cool tb.. I am thinking, next time I try the bigger Pyrex, I should probably make bigger coils so they are as close to the glass as possible..tb I hate those crimps lol... Try looking up how to make a Penelope or Odysseus coil with non resistance .. I think it is a great work around for the crimps..
I broke down and bought a true micro crimp tool. Works a lot better. I sealed the lower crimp in the epoxy along with sealing the end. Hoping to do something similar with the top end. This is my first shot at this, so will see how it turns out.
Hey TB, when I make my coils for the 2x1 fq, I twist the NR wire on both ends first, then wrap the Kanthal over the thinnest sewing needle I can find. Make the individual coils so that they touch each other. When its time to feed it in the tube, after you get past the twist, stretch the tightly spaced coils out and they will fit into the tube with a screwing motion of the tube. When stretched, the coil measures about 10mm for a 1.9 - 2.Ω coil.
Once you guys get the tubing and coil sorted out, the next place for experimentation is the wick itself. I've had good results with 3-4 layers of 500 mesh with a piece of wire at the top to keep the mesh taught against the tube. This evening, I put together another, this time again with 3 cm of 325 mesh. Being a thicker mesh, it makes for a snug fit through the 2.5mm dud wick hole, so no need to wrap the wick with wire to keep taught. As one would expect, 325 does not wick as good as 500, and has to be tilted. Even so, the flavor is outstanding, and we'll see how it does after seasoning. Didn't torch or boil this one. Next up 400 mesh when I get my hands on some.
Another thing I plan on trying is poking 10-20 needle holes through 500 mesh before wrapping at the heated end. Also plan to cut some vertical slits at the top end 2-3mm apart so when rolled, the top is less solid. Object being to let even more vapor escape from the inner layers.
Another thing I plan on trying is poking 10-20 needle holes through 500 mesh before wrapping at the heated end. Also plan to cut some vertical slits at the top end 2-3mm apart so when rolled, the top is less solid. Object being to let even more vapor escape from the inner layers.
Ok guys pm's have been sent out I will be heading to the Po in a few hours...
U know who u are... Muahahahaa ...
U know who u are... Muahahahaa ...
Ok I have a few pics of a coil In Pyrex
I am using the fireplace cement bottom and top. The bottom will get a layer of regular silicone and the top will get the high heat stuff..
Off to the mailbox
In the bottom pic I only put the cement on half the top.. It does swell a bit and I wanted to leave room for that..
I am using the fireplace cement bottom and top. The bottom will get a layer of regular silicone and the top will get the high heat stuff..
Off to the mailbox
In the bottom pic I only put the cement on half the top.. It does swell a bit and I wanted to leave room for that..
Tore a few cartomizers apart today, this is what is wrapped around the coils..along with some paper looking stuff in a few places, and if course the polyfil
The long piece came out of a horizontal kanger, the other 2 out of a dual coil
The long piece came out of a horizontal kanger, the other 2 out of a dual coil
Ok let the mortar dry man that stuff will swell so make sure u have something in the end to cause a vent hole.. I left a good sized hole and jut before I heat treated it, I put a piece of kanthal in, and good thing I did that's the only vent on it.. I will be firing this baby up outside with glasses on lol..
So anyway here is a pic with the red silicone on the mortar..
So anyway here is a pic with the red silicone on the mortar..
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You can see in this pic that the hole is going to be minuscule.. I keep moving the wire in the hole, so the silicone doesn't seal it into the opening..
man i need to get a job..lol
total time waiting for fireplace mortar to dry to this point,just under an hour or so..OH and the silicone smelled just like regular ol' silicone..
And remember " If the lady's dont find ya handsome,at least they'll find ya handy"
man i need to get a job..lol
total time waiting for fireplace mortar to dry to this point,just under an hour or so..OH and the silicone smelled just like regular ol' silicone..
And remember " If the lady's dont find ya handsome,at least they'll find ya handy"
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guys,I am reading my posts,and you will just have to forgive my typos..I guess I have fat fingers or something..I usually post from the phone because I can instantly upload the pics I just took.
Also,I put the masonry stuff and the silicone on with a toothpick,and then try and smooth with my latex glove on..
heh,easier using your hand to smooth the silicone,,its so miniscule you wont even notice
Also,I put the masonry stuff and the silicone on with a toothpick,and then try and smooth with my latex glove on..
heh,easier using your hand to smooth the silicone,,its so miniscule you wont even notice
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And my second one, red at the top and clear on the bottom now I will let it dry overnight..
and another observation..since the red is for gaskets and what-not,it takes it a lot longer to cure..The clear has already skinned over,but the red,even on an earlier one I did is still malleable.
and another observation..since the red is for gaskets and what-not,it takes it a lot longer to cure..The clear has already skinned over,but the red,even on an earlier one I did is still malleable.
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325 was a total fail. Between the surface tension against the tube and the wick hole, and being 325, wicking was to inconsistent. Dang tube cracked from thermal shock to boot.
So for the Pyrex, it is imperative to have wet wick up against the tube to prevent overheating. Cracking may turn out to be the Achilles heel of Pyrex.
Headed down to the "lab" to put together a perforated 500 mesh.
So for the Pyrex, it is imperative to have wet wick up against the tube to prevent overheating. Cracking may turn out to be the Achilles heel of Pyrex.
Headed down to the "lab" to put together a perforated 500 mesh.
I didn't want to be left out - so here's a shot of the 2 x 1 FQ tube. It is blurry, since the tube is so small, I have to use macro zoom. I'll work on some better shots.
You can see in the end on the left, opposite the masonry and red silcone, the wax plug in the juice tank end. Waiting for silicone to cure. I'm down to my last long FQ tube - I was scraping the tube against the candle to get the wax in and forced it, breaking the tube in half. I found a better way, though - heat the tube end and stick into candle. Wish I'd have thought of that before.
You can see in the end on the left, opposite the masonry and red silcone, the wax plug in the juice tank end. Waiting for silicone to cure. I'm down to my last long FQ tube - I was scraping the tube against the candle to get the wax in and forced it, breaking the tube in half
. I found a better way, though - heat the tube end and stick into candle. Wish I'd have thought of that before.
Now I remember,this is a bit random,but has to do with what we are doing.making a vacuum in the tubes..
Cant you just heat up the glass tube,with it having a very small hole in it,and while it is hot,put a spot of something over the hole,wont that cause a vacuum?? sort of like how gas cans can collapse if left in the summer sun?? anyway,it just came to me that this may be an option..
Cant you just heat up the glass tube,with it having a very small hole in it,and while it is hot,put a spot of something over the hole,wont that cause a vacuum?? sort of like how gas cans can collapse if left in the summer sun?? anyway,it just came to me that this may be an option..
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