that looks good DSY...real good..I just imagine you can get away with clear silicone for the bottom..I know you have been working with the wax and it looks good.
Pyrex Tube/Inner Coil/SS Mesh Genesis Mod
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OK,I have to ask..Where can we get small FQ at a reasonable price..The pyrex seems ok,(I dont really know as I havent had one work out for me yet) but it seems to me FQ is the way to go..
I think that the fq tubing that TBinAZ had sent out was from a guy that got it at Wilmad Lab
Glass. Don't know the pricing - maybe a small co-op among us would be the way to go.
Glass. Don't know the pricing - maybe a small co-op among us would be the way to go.
Here's one I found on a Google search: National Scientific Company. They have a $50.00 minimum order, though.
That's not a bad price, but it's Pyrex, not fused quartz
.Looked back into my old PMs and I was wrong about where the tube TBinAz had came from - it was Technical Glass Products.
Yea,I think the quartz is really the best in the long run..no worries about it melting..I have torched that stuff until it glows red,and still just like new..and the smaller FQ would probably work in just about anything.
If a few of us end up going in on some, id be in as well
Yes, I'm an evil raccoon.
Yes, I'm an evil raccoon.
Kevin, are you using crimps? Take a resistance measurement of your coil - I just tried one of mine and it wouldn't glow. Resistance was over 3Ω, when I started it was 1.9Ω - 2.0Ω! Then I checked the one that I took the pic of - it was 1.8Ω - 1.9Ω when I started and now it reads 15.5Ω!
I don't know what happened - I think that either the mortar expanded my twisted wires (I had the twist all the way to the top) or when I heated the mortar with a lighter it weakened the twist. What a bummer!
I'm not sure I'll even be able to check the wires, since the mortar is rock hard.
I don't know what happened - I think that either the mortar expanded my twisted wires (I had the twist all the way to the top) or when I heated the mortar with a lighter it weakened the twist. What a bummer!
I'm not sure I'll even be able to check the wires, since the mortar is rock hard.
Yea dsy I use a torch and just brush it by it 3 or 4 times.. After it turns nice And grey. I figure its good..I don't point the torch at it for more than a second.. 3-4 times
QSI 3mm OD/2mm ID Fused Quartz
No minimum....I ordered 4' and shipping was like $15....probably not much if any more for several 4' sections
No minimum....I ordered 4' and shipping was like $15....probably not much if any more for several 4' sections
Put together one with 5-6 layers of 500. For you guys with the larger hole AGA's, a little more wick than my 3-4 layer recommendation may be OK. The added layers do not wick as well as I would like I think mainly because as with that failed 325 mesh build, the thicker wick is making firm contact with both the side of the wick hole, and the tube creating surface tension on both sides of the mesh. Heat transfer though is still good. Not as immediate as with less wick, but good nonetheless.
Looked at the resistance problem today. Yes it seems that the fp mortar had caused my twist to either separate a little or break - just squeezing the end of the tube with my fingers caused wild fluctuations in resistance. The plug can be pulled out if you give it a good tug. The tube can then be cleaned up to remove the mortar. Good to know, since it means the glass can be reused.
I guess I need to find a way to make a better NR/Kanthal connection - haven't had much luck with silver solder, but I think I will have to revisit this avenue. Since my coil needs to be as close to the top as possible, it requires that the connection be covered with the mortar.
I guess I need to find a way to make a better NR/Kanthal connection - haven't had much luck with silver solder, but I think I will have to revisit this avenue. Since my coil needs to be as close to the top as possible, it requires that the connection be covered with the mortar.
D look up the Odysseus Penelope way to twist them together.. Igetcha69 has a great tutorial or down in the GG supplier forum look under Penelope tips and tricks..
I forgot I got some heat shrink tubing the other day, my initial impressions after taking it out of the bag and smelling it and tasting it, I do not believe it will work.. It has a funky smell and the taste is lingering on my tongue..I was hoping I use it to seal up the bottom, or to insulate nr wires in my carto I am experimenting with..
The stuff I got is made by Gardner bender.. It says it is polyolefin.. Guess I will look it up..
Here is a link which seems to say the resin is pretty impervious to many chemicals.. Maybe the smell and taste are coming from the molds/ machinery during manufacture
http://plastics.ides.com/generics/38/polyolefin-polyolefin
The stuff I got is made by Gardner bender.. It says it is polyolefin.. Guess I will look it up..
Here is a link which seems to say the resin is pretty impervious to many chemicals.. Maybe the smell and taste are coming from the molds/ machinery during manufacture
http://plastics.ides.com/generics/38/polyolefin-polyolefin
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I did a little more reasearching looking p the msds.. I am going to put a piece in pg and a piece in vg let it sit for a day or so and see if I get any leeching I can see..
Basically it sounds pretty impervious as long as you aren't burning it...
Basically it sounds pretty impervious as long as you aren't burning it...
Not sure if it was mentioned in this thread or not but I've been researching a high temp (2600 f)ceramic cement by Sauereisin(initially number 10 because the company that I'm having produce small ceramic parts carries it retail). Sauereisin has many cements to choose from. After researching-#78- is what I'm going to use to encapsulate resistance wire within a 1.8mm diameter thin walled alumina ceramic tube. The cement has great thermal conductivity and electrical resistance (to match the tubing) and after curing is suppose to be hazard free. Particulate matter is minimal and the pellet sized heater will be housed inside wicking material - negating concern. There are also cements which insulate thermally and I may use them to protect nr connections. I will post pix of my inner coil design asap but I'm weeks away from recieving my shipment -given the holidays.
Here's a link to the cements and I think they will help with the designs I've seen here.
Sauereisen > Product Index
ps. #78 can be used to simply coat the coil if anyone was trying the enameling experiment.
Here's a link to the cements and I think they will help with the designs I've seen here.
Sauereisen > Product Index
ps. #78 can be used to simply coat the coil if anyone was trying the enameling experiment.
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