Because for the Same Type and Gauge of Wire, Higher Ohm builds have More Loops. And More Loops, to me, gives me Better Flavor.
Kinda what I tried to say here.
Question about resistance
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Because for the Same Type and Gauge of Wire, Higher Ohm builds have More Loops. And More Loops, to me, gives me Better Flavor.
Kinda what I tried to say here.
Ok, now as soon as you change the gauge of the wire you change everything.
Differerent gauge wire works at different power.
if you made a 0.5 ohm single coil you might find it
runs too hot
does not give enough fog
it's basically going to run at about half the power that you usually run your 0.8 ohm
I want to thank everyone for their informative musings on the math behind this stuff. Still, I'm kinda with the original poster here, so I'll ask his question in a different way: "There seems to be a lot of hype about "sub-ohm" recently, on a mech mod this seems to make a lot of sense, but many people are using sub-ohm on a variable mod, what's the allure? If the device can handle the wattage anyway, why not use higher resistance? Most of the answers here seem to point to higher resitance actually being better (except for maybe the drain on the battery, or the surface area arguement)."
I could be way off now...oh well.
"subohm" is just being used by the people selling stuff, to sell more stuff.
the devil is always in the details.
I don't really think there is any Right or Wrong answers to whether Sub-Ohming is "Better". And One Size definitely does Not Fit All.
It just kinda Gets down to what a Person Likes.
And the Only way for a Person to Know is to Try Different Ohms in Their Hardware with Their e-Liquids.
I bought a Kanger SUBTANK because so many people said it worked well and Didn't Leak. I build it at about 1.2 Ohms with 28g Nichrome 80
Non Sub-Ohms in a Subtank. Go Figure.
LOL
Yeah Ive been running my subtank with the 0.5ohm coil today and I normally love castle long, with this 0.5 ohm coil its tasting kind of nasty and Im wondering why when Im vaping at the same wattage I run it on a 1.2 coil usually.
You might want to be able to run your build off of more than one kind of battery. Plus, the range is limited. Some regulated mods lose power at high voltage output, all have a limit on voltage. You can about double the wraps/resistance compared to a mech, maximum, if you want adjustment left over. However, you could then go down a wire size (up the gauge) and still be at a little higher power than the mech.
There is no surface area argument, more wraps same wire make more surface area as well as higher power requirement ... and higher resistance. You can just go bigger with fatter wire. More surface area means it needs more power to drive -- it needs to put out more vapor -- so more is not always good thing. It has to be right for what you're trying to do.
One place I can think of that might be a good application for lots of wraps, higher voltage, would be a Taifun with its long wick. It's big in there.
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Because it wants more power than you're giving it. And I think this is the real answer to your question. Basically, I find I like my regulated vape to still be in the area I would get with a mech using Ohm's Law
So if my build is 1.0 ohm, that's going to be in the 17.5W range. Maybe a bit higher. Maybe even slightly lower, but somewhere near there.
Now if my coil is 0.5 ohm, I'm going to want it in the 35W range for best flavor. Again, maybe higher since I can with a regulated mod, and maybe even a tad lower.
What I find with a regulated mod though is I can build higher and add wraps to my coil, and up my power over the 4.2v I would get on my mech with a fresh battery, and have a great vape. Let's use my Flash e Vapor as an example. On a regulated mod, I would be happy with an 8 wrap of 27g for 1.3 ohms. However, I would like to run it in the 4.4-4.7v range. Something I would never be able to do on a mech. On my mech, it tastes good to me with a 6 wrap of 26g for a resistance of about 0.6 ohm. So very different builds to get similar vapes. I take advantage of my regulated mods' ability to boost over 4.2v, and increase my coil's surface area, and therefore resistance because I can.
I personally run higher ohm coils to make use of a higher voltage and to keep current draw low. I don't know the specifics of how batteries work, but there was a definite difference in battery life when I ran 0.2 ohms at 55W vs 0.7 ohms at 55W. My battery life is much better with my 0.7 ohm build since I'm not straining the batteries with as high a current load.
Plus the extra wraps to vaporize more liquid is always a plus
Plus the extra wraps to vaporize more liquid is always a plus
the vape is different, think it has to do with heat flux and how the juice/what temperature it vaporizes at. Ive done coils with 26-28g wire, and as low as 20-22g wire. At the same wattages and same resistances, the 26-28g wire seems to me at least, has a weird flavor to it, like I can taste the VG/nicotine base more instead of the flavoring. That's just me though from experience, I have no proof or anything.
Something not mentioned yet is the heat capacity of the coil. Thicker wire heats up slower and cools slower. Of course that depends on the amount of it that you've got and that's the variable you are changing.
I can say that the 1.2 ohm 3mm twisted 30g coil I'm running now is the same resistance as the 2.5mm single 30g coil I was running before, but it takes almost twice the power, produces a richer vapour and is sluggish to heat up.
But that is the opposite variable to the one you are varying.
My gut feeling is that the surface area and wire mass will change the vape, but I'd have to run the numbers to be sure.
I can say that the 1.2 ohm 3mm twisted 30g coil I'm running now is the same resistance as the 2.5mm single 30g coil I was running before, but it takes almost twice the power, produces a richer vapour and is sluggish to heat up.
But that is the opposite variable to the one you are varying.
My gut feeling is that the surface area and wire mass will change the vape, but I'd have to run the numbers to be sure.
your main diffrence is going to be heat. so lets stick with a single coil and we'll go with 26ga kanthal 30w for this.
(mW rates as per steam-engine)
.5 ohm will be around 531 mW
1.0 ohm = 266 mW
1.2 ohm = 221 mW
1.5 ohm = 177 mW
now lets change the .5 to a dual coil just for an example of that
.5 ohm dual coil = 133 mW
so with only changing the coil and nothing else, that shows that your heat flux changes depending on your ohms
now other things to add to this is vapor and flavor will be different at the different ohms
so to maybe give you some insite to answer a little bit of your question, i use a VW mods. my main build in my drippers is .6 ohms. (26ga 11 wraps 2.5mm id dual coil)
i run that at 50w that outs me at my targeted heat flux of around 180-200 mW. its a cool vape with excellent vapor production
to get the same heat flux at 50w with a single coil would be 20 wraps equaling 2.4 ohms
hope this helps out a little bit on your search for an answer
(mW rates as per steam-engine)
.5 ohm will be around 531 mW
1.0 ohm = 266 mW
1.2 ohm = 221 mW
1.5 ohm = 177 mW
now lets change the .5 to a dual coil just for an example of that
.5 ohm dual coil = 133 mW
so with only changing the coil and nothing else, that shows that your heat flux changes depending on your ohms
now other things to add to this is vapor and flavor will be different at the different ohms
so to maybe give you some insite to answer a little bit of your question, i use a VW mods. my main build in my drippers is .6 ohms. (26ga 11 wraps 2.5mm id dual coil)
i run that at 50w that outs me at my targeted heat flux of around 180-200 mW. its a cool vape with excellent vapor production
to get the same heat flux at 50w with a single coil would be 20 wraps equaling 2.4 ohms
hope this helps out a little bit on your search for an answer
Apparently the electronics are straining at .2 and producing a lower conversion efficiency if this is really true. If the efficiency was the same, the draw on the battery would be the same. The power setting would change the current draw on the battery (cell itself) but not the resistance of the coil, as the electronics would simply transform the battery voltage and current into whatever voltage and current needed to drive the coil to that power, minus a fixed loss (5-10%).
And as I explained already, extra wraps is not always a plus.
The cross-sectional area increases at the square of the diameter, vs. the surface area increases linearly. So, as diameter increases, the mass of the wire increases faster than the area. However, I have trouble believing the mass of the wire absorbs a lot of heat unless the wire is quite thick. The resistance also drops faster than the surface area increases, so for a constant voltage, a thicker wire also needs to be a little longer.
Twisted wires don't have that issue. There is a slightly less than twice the area due to the twisted wires touching each other. A bigger difference is that contact coils don't contact each other as well, so there is less heat concentration, and often the diameter ends up being bigger because the wire springs out from the form. So, it may need even more than twice the power. It should heat up undetectably slower (or faster?) than a single wire when driven with the right power. You may have some power loss.
The difference I have seen is the VW mod that can handle a low, super sub-ohm build, set at a high wattage, say above 80 watts is a serious kick in the lungs.
Examples -
Sigelei 150watt with your favorite RDA, coiled and wicked with your favorite wire and wick, at a guess for the example 24awg, 3mm Inner Diameter, 5/4 wrap, dual coil, kanthal a1, approx 0.2 to 0.3 ohms set at 70 watts
A simple single battery mech mod with same setup, Sony VTC series battery, should be outputting around 70 watts
In my experience, the Sigelei at those set variables above is sending a heck of a lot more power output than 70 watts, feels in the range of 100+ to me, the mech feels a little anemic in output compared to the VW mod. Reason being there are other variables not being calculated with the mech, voltage drop, conductivity of the mech mod materials, etc, the ending coil is not getting a full 4.2v, but closer to 3.9 or lower after those variables can be calculated into the equation. Still all in all, I do own mech, some authentic, some clones, and still like their simplicity, durability, and longevity, as well as ability to be quickly fixed. Yet on the other hand, I started with cigalikes, moved to Ego style, then into first gen VW units, got into rebuilding and mechs, now leaning back down the road of VW regulated mods, the mechs sitting idle mostly as building and testing platforms, the regulated mods my all day runners.
So it goes into preference of what you are wanting, comparing peaches to nectarines.
Examples -
Sigelei 150watt with your favorite RDA, coiled and wicked with your favorite wire and wick, at a guess for the example 24awg, 3mm Inner Diameter, 5/4 wrap, dual coil, kanthal a1, approx 0.2 to 0.3 ohms set at 70 watts
A simple single battery mech mod with same setup, Sony VTC series battery, should be outputting around 70 watts
In my experience, the Sigelei at those set variables above is sending a heck of a lot more power output than 70 watts, feels in the range of 100+ to me, the mech feels a little anemic in output compared to the VW mod. Reason being there are other variables not being calculated with the mech, voltage drop, conductivity of the mech mod materials, etc, the ending coil is not getting a full 4.2v, but closer to 3.9 or lower after those variables can be calculated into the equation. Still all in all, I do own mech, some authentic, some clones, and still like their simplicity, durability, and longevity, as well as ability to be quickly fixed. Yet on the other hand, I started with cigalikes, moved to Ego style, then into first gen VW units, got into rebuilding and mechs, now leaning back down the road of VW regulated mods, the mechs sitting idle mostly as building and testing platforms, the regulated mods my all day runners.
So it goes into preference of what you are wanting, comparing peaches to nectarines.
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