Question! Kanger Protank issues and super new...

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Hi all!

A friend of a friend recommended that I pick up a started kit to get going on my mission to quit smoking. So here's what I ended up ordering:


  • Joye Ego-C Twist 650mAh - Stainless
  • Vision Spinner 1300mAh - Blue
  • Kanger Protank
  • Kanger T3 eGo Bottom Coil Clearomizer - Smoke Black


I also ordered a sample pack of liquid in 18mg from pink spot vapors. (Half to full pack a day smoker of the yellow American Spirits.)

So, my head is spinning with all the language. I understand very little.

My Protank question is this: there was a little silicone cap inside the protank (on the head thing?) that I just took off, thinking it was part of shipping/packaging. Oops. I watched some youtube videos AFTER the fact, and noticed no one else took it off. But when I put it back on, the tank doesn't work nearly as well. I left it off and I seem to get a better drag and it works better, but am I going to damage something?

Also: I've been using both the Protank and the T3 consistently since yesterday, and there is little to no noticeable difference in the level of liquid in either one of them. Am I doing something wrong?

I don't have a buddy who can tell me the stupid stuff like this! Any help would be VERY much appreciated!!
 

friedbob

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From what I have learned from my 2 Kanger PTs, if it works, leave it, if it doesnt buy some new coils =D. I have used it with and without and its really just there to make sure juice doesn't leak down onto the battery contact. If your not experiencing any adverse leakage than your fine just be careful your not over tightening.
 

PONKAW

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We are talking about the little ring right? Not the packaging silicone on the mouthpiece.

That silicone "thingy" (clear O ring) is the seal that keeps your eliquid from escaping the tank and going into the vent tube air-way. Without it the protank will gurgle lose pressure and you will end up with a nice amount of ejuice in your mouth.
 
The Protank 2 not only allows you to use your own drip tip (or the one it came with) but you can also disassemble the entire unit to make cleaning easier. The top and bottom unscrew and you can remove the glass section from the middle also allowing you to replace the glass portion should it crack. The Protank 1 you could not use your own drip tip, nor could you take it apart so if you broke the glass you had to buy an entirely new unit.
 

Kahuna Cowboy

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The original Protank everything was one piece, only the base with the head could be removed. On the II all parts disassemble and can be replaced. This has the benefit of being able to customize the tank more to your liking, preferred mouthpieces, colored glass, etc...

Also the draw was slightly tightened and is slightly less airy than the original Protank, although the II is still pretty airy on the draw too.
 

Taylor7617

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One thing to keep in mind is I think (never used so this is my belief) is the T3 is polycarbonate (or plastic). The ProTank is glass and can handle ALL types of eLiquid including the harsh Cinnamon and citrus flavors. Eventually using those liquids on plastic tanks you will get cracking and/or frosting of the tank (leads to leaching the plastic into the liquid). Wife and I have moved solely to glass so all liquids will work. PT1 vs PT2.......all mentioned as the 2 is rebuildable and does have a slightly tighter draw. I have both, like the PT2
 

Pstarsr

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I'd leave the silicone cap, it seals the draw tube from liquid being pulled when your drag.

When you say it works better what do you mean? Do you mean it feels better when you draw, or taste better?

Since your new ( and in not a veteran, just gona give you my experience so far ) the technique for using a pv is different than a cig. It took me awhile to "drag" it right. I didn't get the difference till I cleaned my first protank atomizer, I could see the coil burning and when I blew on it to get the crud off I could see that the more I blew the colder the coil got. The airflow over the coil was cooling it significantly.

So without getting to complicated,think of it when you draw off your protank,slow light draw. If you draw to hard and fast it cools the coil to much, and it's not as hot. Fluids can taste off, not produce vapor and sometime you will get fluid in your mouth.


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I'd leave the silicone cap, it seals the draw tube from liquid being pulled when your drag.

When you say it works better what do you mean? Do you mean it feels better when you draw, or taste better?

Thank you! What I mean is that with the cap ON, it was very difficult to get any vapor at all. With it off, there was much more vapor. I'll try putting it back on with more patient draws. I've been using the T3 all day today anyway.

Thank you EVERYONE who responded!
 

SilverZero

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Thank you! What I mean is that with the cap ON, it was very difficult to get any vapor at all. With it off, there was much more vapor. I'll try putting it back on with more patient draws. I've been using the T3 all day today anyway.

Thank you EVERYONE who responded!

Try putting that cap back on upside down. Some people have better luck with wicking that way.
 

Coastal Cowboy

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Are you talking about the sleeve that was over the coil, or the tiny o-ring that covers the connection between the air flow stem and the base?

You should definitely remove the shipping sleeve. Don't remove that o-ring grommet for the reasons Bill mentioned.

The sleeve is about 3/8" in diameter and about 3/4" to 1" in length and covers the entire coil head. The tiny o-ring/grommet thingy is much smaller, not cylindrical and is installed over the air flow stem.

Also, one other difference between versions I and II of the ProTank is that the 510 threading was retooled to be stronger. The PTI had issues with breaking off, leaving a portion of the threads stuck inside the 510 connection on the battery.

I believe the replacement bases now being sold also address that problem, so if you have an older ProTank, the replacement base is a good buy.
 

Pstarsr

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Ok I need pictures, is this the cap your talking about?

mejysuve.jpg


This is a used ( in my to be cleaned pile ) atomizer, but they come exactly like this in the packages I get. Not sure about the "shipping sleeve" referenced above. I think a few places make these so that could be the differences.

Anyways, I don't remove the cap on my mini protank ( uses same atomizer as regular protank ). Vapor is fine, if it's a new atomizer or freshly cleaned sometimes wait for fluid to get in the wicks. just a couple seconds, bubbles will come up in fluid.

I have had low vapor on some, but that was because it was dirty, and needed to be cleaned. Normal usage about a week or so on an atomizer. And although I'd love to say these are always perfect, bad atomizers can happen on first puff. Give it a few tries and if no change try another.

Another thing happened the other day, I cleaned an atomizer and didn't dry it well enough. Water was in the wick, when I hit it I got very little vapor and flavor. I couldn't get it to go away till I took it out and dryed it really well


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