Raptor Flip-Top VV Mod with 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...

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Joshleeman

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yeah - no stealth size mod with this board for sure. :laugh:

CraigHB had mentioned the LG 18650 batts and that's how I found out about them. He didn't know though if they were accurate as spec'd, so I wanted to see and test them.

LG 18650 batts: LG LGDAHE21865 3.6V 30A HIGH DRAIN 2500mAh Lithium ion Li-on

and here: 2pcs LG LGDAHE21865 HIGH DRAIN 2500mAh 30A 3.6V Lithium ion Li-on 18650 Battery

I ordered 2 from the ebay seller - I've bought from him before and no issues there.

Specs:
LG LGDAHE21865 HIGH DRAIN 2500mAh 30A Rechargeable Lithium Li-on 18650 Battery

Description:
· Li-ion 2500mAh 18650 cell
· Product Name : LG LGDAHE21865 Lithium-ion Rechargeable Battery
· Model : 18650
· Nominal Capacity : 2500mAh
· Diameter : 18.0mm
· Height : 65.0mm
· Weight(Typical) : 45g
· Max. Continuing Charge Current : 30A
· Internal resistance : 13mOhm
· Charge Method: Constant Current and Constant Voltage(4.2V)
· Nominal Voltage : 3.7 V
· Discharge Temperature : -20°C ~ +60°C

Probably wouldnt matter because theres no way this device would produce a hit anywhere near small enough to qualify as stealth. This chip is in the nite club fog machine category.
 

BJ43

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Got back from a 14 day trip and my raptor with a 4200mAh 60C lipo pack had discharged the batteries while sitting idle. Is there anyway to prevent this or should I just install a power on/off master switch? Battery pack was below limits and had to be jump started to get it to charge again. Thankful it didn't ruin the battery and it is charging again..:)

 
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mamu

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Charging or removing the batts from the mod once they reach the cutoff voltage is definitely recommended or if you're not going to use your mod for a while, remove the batts. Or install a rated master on/off switch and remember to use it lol.

The zener protects the batts from undervoltage by not letting the converter fire below the zener's breakdown voltage, but the zener does not stop the idle current drain.
 

BJ43

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Charging or removing the batts from the mod once they reach the cutoff voltage is definitely recommended or if you're not going to use your mod for a while, remove the batts. Or install a rated master on/off switch and remember to use it lol.

The zener protects the batts from undervoltage by not letting the converter fire below the zener's breakdown voltage, but the zener does not stop the idle current drain.

Thanks mamu.:) Just curious if there was a zener that could be used on the input....
 
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mamu

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Not that I'm aware of and there would still be the idle current drain at the on/off control.

Bypassing the on/off control has its advantages and disadvantages. Without it, we don't have that idle current drain and have to use a rated switch. With it we have at least some undervoltage protection via zener and are able to use a non-rated switch.

The proper and best way for UVLO would be to use a supervisory circuit. I was working with that for the OKL2-T20 and what's available is just too tiny unless you mount it on a PCB specifically made for it.
 

BJ43

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What would cause it to fire line that? That worries me a little bit.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

If your question was about why it drained the batteries?. It wasn't firing on its own. The raptor used with its internal on/off control will have a small idle current draw. This over a long time can drain the batteries below acceptable limits.
 
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ftlum

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Hi All.

I went through the thread and tried to compile a parts list.
I'm not sure about the 6v zener-- if it's necessary, or which one to get.
I can't find the LG batteries mentioned. I found some Sonys.

thanks (& special thanks to Mamu),

Frank




Parts list

1590G box
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Hammond-Manufacturing/1590G/?qs=vOcB1WHNNXJ4dt9dvpIQGg==

Battery holder (?)
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/BK-18650-PC4/BK-18650-PC4-ND/2330513
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-New-Blac...771?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ad5a1831b (looks like a better fit, but wires are a little thin-appearing)

510 Atty connector
http://www.avidvaper.com/510-modders-connector/
http://fatdaddyvapes.com/shop.html (better)

Naos Raptor (NSR020A0X43Z) 20A, 120W DC/DC Converter (digikey, mouser)
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/GE-Critical-Power/NSR020A0X43Z/?qs=DWPgn/G9gkxYgP6PIW5L/A==

Fire switch (PV5S64011 or below) (digikey, mouser)
http://www.digikey.com/product-sear...us&keywords=PV5S640SS&formaction=on&x=13&y=13

2x22uF capacitors wired in parallel (C3225X5R1C226K250AA) (many thanks to CraigHB for recommendation on the input capacitor) (digikey, mouser) or GRM32CF51C226ZA12L (digikey, mouser)
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TDK/C3225X5R1C226K250AA/?qs=NRhsANhppD9EOZrmEO6PsQ==

2x9A fuses wired in parallel (650-RGEF900) (digikey, mouser)
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-Raychem/RGEF900/?qs=F6FIpiMdEVYGXYgWmvO4/g==

200 ohm POT (PT10MH01-201A2020) (mouser)
http://www.mouser.com/Search/Produc...020virtualkey53100000virtualkey531-PT10MV-200

Shaft for 200 ohm POT (JPEPL5012NE or 5116) (mouser)
http://www.mouser.com/Search/Produc...BLACK)virtualkey53100000virtualkey531-5116NEI

POT knob of your choice that accommodates the size of shaft you've chosen (if using a shaft, a knob is not necessarily required)
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=450-3023virtualkey56100000virtualkey450-3023

220 ohm and 7.5K ohm resisters, and 5.6v (or 6.2v) zener diode (various sites)
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/291-220/220-ohm-1/4-watt/1.html
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/RNF14FTD7K50/RNF14FTD7K50CT-ND/1975080
http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=WLTup5mM6hggalH74%2bUKpQ==
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Fairchild-Semiconductor/1N5234C/?qs=HZXUBxYhOPmpNQcPyYKOQQ== (6.2v zener, recommended by BJ)

Mini 3-position slide switch (on/off/on) (I used Apem TG39P000000)
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Apem/TG39P000000/?qs=/s1LKTamv0yMserGYy8jyg==

1S-6S voltage reader (ebay)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-0-28-D...d=100005&prg=1088&rk=3&rkt=4&sd=251345052256&
http://www.shapeways.com/model/1736...quot-digit.html?modelId=1736356&materialId=88

P-FET:
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/SUP75P03-07-E3/SUP75P03-07-E3-ND/2623113

2x 18650 batts (recommend 30A discharge rating)
2pcs LG LGDAHE21865 HIGH DRAIN 2500mAh 30A 3.6V Lithium ion Li-on 18650 Battery (can't find any)
Sony alternative: http://www.ebay.com/itm/TWO-SONY-US...BLE-Li-on-18650-Battery-2100mAh-/331104456074

veroboard

black/ red wire
18ga-20ga pins 1, 3, 6, 10 (lower gauge recommended if running max or close to max amp loads, even 16ga would be appropriate if you want). 22ga-24ga pins 2, 5, 9.


---
updated 5/22/14
 
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mamu

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@ jtwalker78 - the wiring guide in the OP is current - any changes I make to it is automatically updated as the pic is linked externally.

I gave most of the part numbers for the parts I used for the build in the OP, plus gave the part number for the zener and the recommended P-FET and some other part numbers in earlier posts in this thread. It's much easier for everyone to read this thread and take note of the parts we are using than for me to repeatedly re-post part numbers. digikey or mouser has most all these parts plus you can search octopart.com to find who has them in stock and at what price.

The zener is for under voltage battery protection - when the input voltage gets to the zener breakdown voltage + 0.4v (input low voltage at on/off control), the converter will not fire. However, the zener does NOT block idle current drain at the on/off control - if you don't remove the batts at their low cutoff voltage, the batts will continue to drain below an unsafe voltage.

I'm still using the 5.6v zener diode I linked to in an earlier post in this thread. BJ linked to the 6.2v zener he's using in an earlier post in this thread. It's at your option to use whatever breakdown voltage you want. The main concern when choosing a zener, besides its breakdown voltage, is power dissipation - 500mW or less is a good choice.

fatdaddyvapes.com has the best 510 Connectors for Box Mods. Reasonably priced, stainless steel, and with a center adjustable pin.

Use 1/8W or 1/4W resistors - higher power is not necessary.

Recommended wiring gauge: 18ga-20ga pins 1, 3, 6, 10 (lower gauge recommended if running max or close to max amp loads, even 16ga would be appropriate if you want). 22ga-24ga pins 2, 5, 9.

Although the datasheet recommends a 7.5K pull-down resistor (and as shown in the wiring guide), there have been a few reports of auto-firing with that value plus I found with a 12v power supply for my passthru mod (and BJ found this too), that 7.5K resistor is too high to prevent auto-firing. For this reason I am now using a 4.7K pull-down resistor with all my future builds. I still have though 2 Raptor mods with the 7.5K resistor and no issues at all with auto-firing. So it's at your option to use a 7.5K or a lower value such at 4.7K with series 18650 batts, but you have to use a lower resistor value if using a 12v power supply.
 
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ftlum

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@ jtwalker78 - the wiring guide in the OP is current - any changes I make to it is automatically updated as the pic is linked externally.Although the datasheet recommends a 7.5K pull-down resistor (and as shown in the wiring guide), there have been a few reports of auto-firing with that value plus I found with a 12v power supply for my passthru mod (and BJ found this too), that 7.5K resistor is too high to prevent auto-firing. For this reason I am now using a 4.7K pull-down resistor with all my future builds. I still have though 2 Raptor mods with the 7.5K resistor and no issues at all with auto-firing. So it's at your option to use a 7.5K or a lower value such at 4.7K with series 18650 batts, but you have to use a lower resistor value if using a 12v power supply.

thanks, Mamu! There seem to be a lot of 4.7k resistors. I'm not sure what the differences are. Could you post a link to one that you'd recommend?

BTW, do people like mouser any better than digikey? I'd be having things shipped to California, if it matters.

Frank
 
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