Raptor Flip-Top VV Mod with 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...

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MadmanMacguyver

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Mamu My hat is off to you once again as you build some of the prettiest toys...looks like a Star Trek TOS flip top communicator... :D

Going to try my hat with one with a twist...You know me and my OVERZEALOUS penchant for safety I'm slapping a protection board in one...


Mamu - how would you go about adding a built in charger to the circuit?


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Matt that is Risky at best internal charging of Li-Ion cells in series requires several considerations...the most important of which is Cell Balance...if the internal charger pushes one batt above max voltage due the the cells being out of balance it will NOT be pretty...look up Li-ion battery fire...the ones they force to go thermal are "usually" done by overcharging them...also the second cell would explode more violently than the first...
 

Little White Cloud

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Mamu My hat is off to you once again as you build some of the prettiest toys...looks like a Star Trek TOS flip top communicator... :D

Going to try my hat with one with a twist...You know me and my OVERZEALOUS penchant for safety I'm slapping a protection board in one...




Matt that is Risky at best internal charging of Li-Ion cells in series requires several considerations...the most important of which is Cell Balance...if the internal charger pushes one batt above max voltage due the the cells being out of balance it will NOT be pretty...look up Li-ion battery fire...the ones they force to go thermal are "usually" done by overcharging them...also the second cell would explode more violently than the first...


There is no danger in having a recharge port. That's what these pcbs are for. PCB/PCM/Fuel Gauge for 7.2V(7.4V) Lithium Battery Pack

I use the 8 amp board. It is small and will handle 30w with ease. If you intend to go higher than that the 20 amp board should do 80w.

Just do a proper installation and use a quality smart charger for 7.4v.
 

Alexander Mundy

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Rapture

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Yes, Raptor is working aok.

The only thing I have changed since the initial build is adding a P-FET for full reverse polarity protection.



There are 2 P-FETs I've tested that work aok with Raptor, and also the OKR, for full reverse polarity protection - an smd one and a leaded one. Neither adversely affect the circuit or cause voltage loss and do a great job in protecting the batts and the entire circuit if you inadvertently place the batts in backwards.

Here are the specs for each:
Si7157DP (smd)
Drain to Source Voltage (Vdss) - 20V
Current - Continuous Drain (Id) @ 25°C - 46.5A (Ta)
Rds On (Max) @ Id, Vgs - 1.6 mOhm @ 25A, 10V
Vgs(th) (Max) @ Id - 1.4V @ 250µA
Gate Charge (Qg) @ Vgs - 625nC @ 10V
Input Capacitance (Ciss) @ Vds - 22000pF @ 10V
Power - Max - 6.25W


SUP75P03-07-E3 (leaded)
Drain to Source Voltage (Vdss) - 30V
Current - Continuous Drain (Id) @ 25°C - 75A (Tc)
Rds On (Max) @ Id, Vgs - 7 mOhm @ 30A, 10V
Vgs(th) (Max) @ Id - 3V @ 250µA
Gate Charge (Qg) @ Vgs - 240nC @ 10V
Input Capacitance (Ciss) @ Vds - 9000pF @ 25V
Power - Max - 3.75W
Mounting Type - Through Hole

Both digikey and mouser have the leaded P-FET (SUP75P03-07-E3) in stock and it's a LOT easier to work with and wire than the smd one.

I am using that pfet you have showed here. I did not wire in a led though. Will this pfet still protect me if I put the batteries in backwards and try and fire it. Thanks
 

rolf

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Does the ground pin where the caps and 7.5k resistor are terminated need to be grounded? I've already built my mod and it's functional but I noticed someone on reddit with it grounded.

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just measured from the ground pin on the right to the ground pin you mentioned ...no resistance...so it must be on the board it selv.
mine is still open and just about finished . so I thought I mesure it real quick ...have funn.
 
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