Man those things are bigger than I thought and I can't find one that panel mounts. Would a volt meter just wired up directly use that much voltage to noticably effect battery life
Raptor Flip-Top VV Mod with 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
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possibly a stupid question... drinking beer is my excuse.
so the p-fet is there for reverse polarity protection, but what happens if just one of the two batteries is in wrong orientation? (total of 4 orientations, both correct, both wrong (led lights up), 1st correct & 2nd incorrect?? and 1st incorrect & 2nd correct??) what is the outcome of the last two battery orientations?
so the p-fet is there for reverse polarity protection, but what happens if just one of the two batteries is in wrong orientation? (total of 4 orientations, both correct, both wrong (led lights up), 1st correct & 2nd incorrect?? and 1st incorrect & 2nd correct??) what is the outcome of the last two battery orientations?
I've been skimming this thread and the low power mosfet tutorial back and forth for several hours (and drank beers) and tried to merge original schematics with the low power firing... I can't help my OCD.
Using 2 batts, p-fet, n-fet and zener, I have several questions:
1. the voltage display GND should connect to Batt - ?
2. the p-fet source goes to Vin, zener and firing switch (which can be unregulated)?
3. master kill switch can be omitted, nothing happens unless firing switch is pressed ?
4. n-fet drain is the "GND" for all raptor GNDs and 510?
(I don't want to post the drunken scribble of a schematics I'm looking at
)
and I don't know why I'm even doing this, I don't even have a chip. Someday I'll get one.
Using 2 batts, p-fet, n-fet and zener, I have several questions:
1. the voltage display GND should connect to Batt - ?
2. the p-fet source goes to Vin, zener and firing switch (which can be unregulated)?
3. master kill switch can be omitted, nothing happens unless firing switch is pressed ?
4. n-fet drain is the "GND" for all raptor GNDs and 510?
(I don't want to post the drunken scribble of a schematics I'm looking at
)and I don't know why I'm even doing this, I don't even have a chip. Someday I'll get one.
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Rapture - You could also use a dpst fire switch and use one side to fire and the other to engage your volt meter. You would display loaded voltage at the batts every time you press the fire button.
Got my 120W Raptor mod finished about an hour ago. HOLY CRAP this thing is a freakin beast!!! Took me about 7 hours to build and it was well worth it! Not to mention the many, many hours of research and parts hunting lol. Its been quite the endeavor and has left me feeling quite accomplished Thanks so much to all of you that helped me along the way, especially you Mamu for the wiring diagram and part numbers
Thanks so much to all of you that helped me along the way, especially you Mamu for the wiring diagram and part numbers 
I've been skimming this thread and the low power mosfet tutorial back and forth for several hours (and drank beers) and tried to merge original schematics with the low power firing... I can't help my OCD.
Using 2 batts, p-fet, n-fet and zener, I have several questions:
1. the voltage display GND should connect to Batt - ?
2. the p-fet source goes to Vin, zener and firing switch (which can be unregulated)?
3. master kill switch can be omitted, nothing happens unless firing switch is pressed ?
4. n-fet drain is the "GND" for all raptor GNDs and 510?
(I don't want to post the drunken scribble of a schematics I'm looking at
and I don't know why I'm even doing this, I don't even have a chip. Someday I'll get one.
1. Yes, connect to Batt - else if you connect to Raptor GND you'll have to press the atty switch to read input volts.
2. Yes, P-FET Source connects to Vin, but zener connects to On/Off Control, Fire switch connects to Gate of N-FET.
3. Master is not required.
4. Yes, connect all converter ground pins, 510 ground, etc to N-FET Drain.
Here's a schematic that shows all this. Been tinkering with it and good to go with both N-FETs I tested with, BUT I have not tested at high amps. The SUP N-FET was recommended by a Vishay rep when I asked what was recommended to handle current load on the switch and the IRL N-FET I had in my stash from my Fistpack days.
I tried putting zener on Gate of N-FET, but is no go for positive logic modules, only good for negative logic modules. Positive logic modules need zener connected directly to On/Off then tied to the fire switch at the N-FET Gate, while negative logic modules need zener connected directly to Gate of N-FET and converter on/off connected directly to Drain (I showed a schematic for this in my OKL2-T20 thread).
Many many thanks to Bap and BJ for leading the way. I followed Bap's suggestion for N-FET using the 47K pull-down and after tinkering where to put the zener, I followed BJ's suggestion for keeping the zener at On/Off. YAY it works!
Got my 120W Raptor mod finished about an hour ago. HOLY CRAP this thing is a freakin beast!!! Took me about 7 hours to build and it was well worth it! Not to mention the many, many hours of research and parts hunting lol. Its been quite the endeavor and has left me feeling quite accomplished
Welcome LowOhms.
Raptor is a fitting name for vaping beast for sure.
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Thank you Mamu. You are the best!
The image you posted is so pretty, I feel particularly happy as it matches what I scribbled on a piece of paper except I omitted the master switch. I ordered me an n-fet SUP50N03 last night from mouser (I saw you mentioned it on another post, I believe on page 31). Should I have ordered the SUP85N03? I have pretty much all parts, except the n-fet (in the mail), 510 connector, volt meter (can add later) and raptor chip. I got a 0.29 ohm dual parallel coil stashed away, awaiting me to get this built and I can blast it with 6 volts and see where it smokes... be it vapor or blown up components
edit: does the wattage matter on the 47k resistor? 250mW ok?
The image you posted is so pretty, I feel particularly happy as it matches what I scribbled on a piece of paper except I omitted the master switch. I ordered me an n-fet SUP50N03 last night from mouser (I saw you mentioned it on another post, I believe on page 31). Should I have ordered the SUP85N03? I have pretty much all parts, except the n-fet (in the mail), 510 connector, volt meter (can add later) and raptor chip. I got a 0.29 ohm dual parallel coil stashed away, awaiting me to get this built and I can blast it with 6 volts and see where it smokes... be it vapor or blown up components
edit: does the wattage matter on the 47k resistor? 250mW ok?
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I should mention that idle current drain from the converter is off with the way the N-FET is wired, but the N-FET even when off will draw idle current. The idle current from the N-FET is the Zero Gate Voltage Drain Current (Idss).
This idle current is usually 1 microAmp which is 0.001 milliAmp which is a teensy tiny amount compared to the converter's idle current which is around 5 milliAmps. So big difference there, but still should be aware of.
@ texanator - SUP50N03 is aok. The basic difference between it and SUP85N03 is that SUP50 has 50A max it can handle continuously and SUP85 has 85A max it can handle continuously. We want to choose a FET that can handle our 20A load plus any possible surge amount. So SUP50 will handle that easily.
0.29 ohm coil with 6 volts is 124W - NOT recommended as you'll take the converter out of spec and may stress/destroy onboard components.
"and see where it smokes... be it vapor or blown up components" lol for sure.
This idle current is usually 1 microAmp which is 0.001 milliAmp which is a teensy tiny amount compared to the converter's idle current which is around 5 milliAmps. So big difference there, but still should be aware of.
@ texanator - SUP50N03 is aok. The basic difference between it and SUP85N03 is that SUP50 has 50A max it can handle continuously and SUP85 has 85A max it can handle continuously. We want to choose a FET that can handle our 20A load plus any possible surge amount. So SUP50 will handle that easily.
0.29 ohm coil with 6 volts is 124W - NOT recommended as you'll take the converter out of spec and may stress/destroy onboard components.
"and see where it smokes... be it vapor or blown up components" lol for sure.
So why do they call it (Idss) when they should of called it (Zgvd). Just to make it more confusing.
When I get around to it again I will put in a small clicky (snap on off) switch to give me zero drain.
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Can chips wven be foubd? I looked a couple of weeks ago and came up with nothing.
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Now that sounds pretty cool actually, so no need for a on/off/on switch?
So how much idle drain are we talking about here with the original wiring? Like .1 volts per week or is it more substantial than that. Any ideas?
Don't know how much in a week 5 milliAmps will draw but I left mine for 2 weeks while I was on a trip and the 4200 mAh lipo battery went from 3.7v each to below safe (2.5 to 2.8v each). I had to jump start it to get it to charge again.
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Three times as much vape time. Very low internal resistance. Only .04v load voltage drop with 1 ohm coil at 23 watts.
Radio Control Planes, Helicopters, Cars, Boats, FPV and Quadcopters - Hobbyking.
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4 batteries in the hard case, 2 parallel packs and then those two in series.
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Length-A(mm) 95
Height-B(mm) 46
Width-C(mm) 25
That is a massive battery, how big is your box mod?
I know very little about RC batteries, I guess they take a special charger too.
And you probably remove the battery to charge it, or do you have a charging ports?
Are they charged thru the balancer or the big wires .... I'm guessing both.
I'm starting to understand the smoking car picture on page4 of this thread
about "BJ has just pulled up"
Height-B(mm) 46
Width-C(mm) 25
That is a massive battery, how big is your box mod?
I know very little about RC batteries, I guess they take a special charger too.
And you probably remove the battery to charge it, or do you have a charging ports?
Are they charged thru the balancer or the big wires .... I'm guessing both.
I'm starting to understand the smoking car picture on page4 of this thread
about "BJ has just pulled up"
Length-A(mm) 95
Height-B(mm) 46
Width-C(mm) 25
That is a massive battery, how big is your box mod?
I know very little about RC batteries, I guess they take a special charger too.
And you probably remove the battery to charge it, or do you have a charging ports?
Are they charged thru the balancer or the big wires .... I'm guessing both.
I'm starting to understand the smoking car picture on page4 of this thread
about "BJ has just pulled up"
It is smaller out of the case.
Charged with a balancing charger thru just the balancing plug at 2 amps.
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I tend to overthink, but what else is there for me to do until I score a raptor chip.
To me it looks like I can run a jumper wire from pin8 (-sense) to pin9 (-trim), because I would bet
pin9 is GND just like pin10?
Also, if going with the low voltage schmatics, one can solder the zener on the raptor itself between Vin and on/off, granted it starts to get crowded in there with the caps and resistor in the mix?
To me it looks like I can run a jumper wire from pin8 (-sense) to pin9 (-trim), because I would bet
pin9 is GND just like pin10?
Also, if going with the low voltage schmatics, one can solder the zener on the raptor itself between Vin and on/off, granted it starts to get crowded in there with the caps and resistor in the mix?
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