Whats the part number for the knob pot the one that tightens with the nut and is it the same resistor
Raptor Flip-Top VV Mod with 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
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Crap i broke my pfet, hope i can pick one up at radioshaft that Will work if not then its another 2 week wait for another... And i was just starting to figure out how to get it all to fit.. Damn that 18g...
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Rewired the raptor box again yesterday and still nothing. Wish I had the capabilities to test the pot. There has to be a faulty part in the chain somewhere.
P16SNP471MAB15 Vishay Sfernice | P16SNP-470-ND | DigiKey
Continue using the 220 ohm trim resistor. It sets your high output voltage to 5.96v
220=1182/(V-0.591) - Wolfram|Alpha
The value of your pot and trim resistor will set your low output voltage. 470 + 220 ohm would be a low voltage output of 2.3v 470+220=1182/(V-0.591) - Wolfram|Alpha
Your firing range will be 2.3-5.96v
Can you bend the pins of the raptor chip 90deg without damaging it? Trimming the pins flush to the board might be too tricky to solder on.
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whoa i dont think i would try it. but maybe others have done it
For the master kill switch, would something like this work?:
GF-1123-1110 CW Industries | Mouser
I've been having trouble finding a slide switch rated at 10A.
GF-1123-1110 CW Industries | Mouser
I've been having trouble finding a slide switch rated at 10A.
Ok I think i fried my board I was using a 1k pot with a 250 ohm resistor and it was working fine then it just stopped working thats the only thing i changed so I am going to guess it was that P16NP102MAB15 Vishay / Sfernice | Mouser
Hey is there way to wire this using just a nfet, and no pfet and still be able to use a non rated fire button?
Well crap i was afraid i wouldn't get a favorable answer, guess i gotta order a new pfet Friday...
Question???
If i remove the pfet from the no idle drain diagram. Could i just wire batts+ -fuses- vin. Then wire fire switch to vin with the zener tied to on/off pin.. Or would i need to wire fire switch to zener to on/off pin.
Or will neither of these work?
From my understanding the pfet is for reverse polarity protection, and the nfet is for taking the load of the switch... So this should be possible right?
If i remove the pfet from the no idle drain diagram. Could i just wire batts+ -fuses- vin. Then wire fire switch to vin with the zener tied to on/off pin.. Or would i need to wire fire switch to zener to on/off pin.
Or will neither of these work?
From my understanding the pfet is for reverse polarity protection, and the nfet is for taking the load of the switch... So this should be possible right?
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Ok so i went ahead and built this. With out the pfet so no reverse polarity protection, or a master kill switch, and it has idle drain oh well lol (the fire button has a on/off switch though)
The pots behind the screen.. My on/off, and on/off/on switches are wrapped in electric tape (wanted to make sure only thing touching box was 510- ) and the actuators are black so you can't see them, even close up lol.
I wired the sense pins to the 510 from what i read that was best.
My voltage range is 3.38v - 5.89v(loaded) 3.4v - 5.96v (unloaded) im guessing my solder job added some resistance lol.
Clockwise= low, CC= high i think that's how it should be..
I tested this With a .6ohm build in small increments from low to high, only thing to get warm was the 510 so, so far so good. If anything goes wrong ill be sure to share lol.
PS. The 1s-6s screen is supposed to blink whole time right? Gonna order one of them smaller voltage meters Friday off fleabay that blinking drives me crazy lol, plus i want BLUE!
PPS. Ill probably try to find a smaller profile fire switch, with a 1/2 mount, gonna try fleabay first even though im sure that will be a Pain... If not mouser will have to do...
The pots behind the screen.. My on/off, and on/off/on switches are wrapped in electric tape (wanted to make sure only thing touching box was 510- ) and the actuators are black so you can't see them, even close up lol.
I wired the sense pins to the 510 from what i read that was best.
My voltage range is 3.38v - 5.89v(loaded) 3.4v - 5.96v (unloaded) im guessing my solder job added some resistance lol.
Clockwise= low, CC= high i think that's how it should be..
I tested this With a .6ohm build in small increments from low to high, only thing to get warm was the 510 so, so far so good. If anything goes wrong ill be sure to share lol.
PS. The 1s-6s screen is supposed to blink whole time right? Gonna order one of them smaller voltage meters Friday off fleabay that blinking drives me crazy lol, plus i want BLUE!
PPS. Ill probably try to find a smaller profile fire switch, with a 1/2 mount, gonna try fleabay first even though im sure that will be a Pain... If not mouser will have to do...
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Crap gonna go google hunting then.. I wired the led like diagram vin,vout to outside of on/off/on, middle pin to pos+ on led, then led negative to batt negative..< maybe that's my problem ..)
Thanks its still working fine, just screen doesn't work lol nothings getting hot.
I think that it doesn't have idle drain, once i finished i let it set with kill switch off for over 8 hours and the charge remained the same.
Thanks its still working fine, just screen doesn't work lol nothings getting hot.
I think that it doesn't have idle drain, once i finished i let it set with kill switch off for over 8 hours and the charge remained the same.
Ok after poking around with a voltmeter and such. The 1s-6s led is bad i believe. Hooked straight to a single batt for testing same thing "EE1", "EE2" in order of pins.
Hooking a voltmeter to the on/off/on switch.
(unloaded, unfired)
Position1 - 8.13v
Position2 - 0
Position3 - 7.83v
(unloaded, fired)
Position1 - 8.08v
Position2 - 0
Position2 - 5.97v(high), 3.36v(low)
(Loaded, fired, .6ohm)
Position1 - 7.55v
Position2 - 0
Position3 - 3.43v(high) 2.32v(low)
{^^^ also checked through my atty with same results}
Im using this switch http://www.mouser.com/Search/Produc...irtualkey58730000virtualkey706-48ASSP3S1M2RBT
This is how its hooked up,
Pin1 - Vin
Pin2 - meter+
Pin3 - Vout
-batt - meter-
Also if this matters both sense pins on chips are wired to the 510
The above readings are confusing me. Any help in sorting that all out would be greatly appreciated.
Hooking a voltmeter to the on/off/on switch.
(unloaded, unfired)
Position1 - 8.13v
Position2 - 0
Position3 - 7.83v
(unloaded, fired)
Position1 - 8.08v
Position2 - 0
Position2 - 5.97v(high), 3.36v(low)
(Loaded, fired, .6ohm)
Position1 - 7.55v
Position2 - 0
Position3 - 3.43v(high) 2.32v(low)
{^^^ also checked through my atty with same results}
Im using this switch http://www.mouser.com/Search/Produc...irtualkey58730000virtualkey706-48ASSP3S1M2RBT
This is how its hooked up,
Pin1 - Vin
Pin2 - meter+
Pin3 - Vout
-batt - meter-
Also if this matters both sense pins on chips are wired to the 510
The above readings are confusing me. Any help in sorting that all out would be greatly appreciated.
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Ok more poking around with meter.
I disconnected sense pins, and got the same results. I then attached a different atty with a 2.2ohm build and it read
3.43v(low) 6.01v(high)
But the real kicker is the my low reading for the 2.2ohm was where the high reading was for .6ohm build.. And the high reading for 2.2ohm was where the low reading for .6ohm was???????
Im so confused, and a little scared to use it ATM lol
***edit***
Tested two more attys, one with a .6ohm build like original, second with a 1ohm build..
These work fine just like the one with the 2.2ohm coil, so it seems my problem was with my TOBH atty....
Still would like to know why my 1s-6s screen went bad... Before i put in another one(this time small 3 wire volt reader)
So right now Im rocking it with no screen, and i haven't re attached the sense pins yet...
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Ok I have a couple questions. First, I wired the battery sled with fuses parallel, I used the voltmeter to see if it's properly set up, with two Batts placed correctly I can't get a reading when touching the ground wire and the positive wire after the two fuses. I did get a reading at the positive battery contact and negative battery contact. Is this right? Or is there a faulty connection somewhere?
Also, I'm an idiot and broke one of the raptor's leads off when moving the wires. I soldered it back on but will I still be able to use the chip?
Thanks in advance.
Also, I'm an idiot and broke one of the raptor's leads off when moving the wires. I soldered it back on but will I still be able to use the chip?
Thanks in advance.
You should get a reading from after the fuses, did you try taking batts out and putting them back in, might have tripped them by accident.
Yes I took the batts out a couple times still nothing. I'm going to splice into the wire before the fuses and see I guess.You should get a reading from after the fuses, did you try taking batts out and putting them back in, might have tripped them by accident.
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