Thank you so much for posting this!!!
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@BJ43 where did you get this cotton.
http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/bj431/media/IMG_2733_zpsf4fa5e0c.jpg.html
pot:
PT10MV10-201A2020 Piher | Mouser
shaft for pot:
5116NEI (BLACK) Piher | Mouser
or
5119NE Piher | Mouser
knob for shaft:
450-3023 Eagle Plastic Devices | Mouser
Features:
Naos Raptor 20A, 120W dc/dc converter
output voltage range 3.3v to 6v
external 18A fuse
external zener diode for low voltage cutoff of 6v
external 2x22uF input capacitors
dual 18650 batts
shafts are 4.9mm diameter, knob takes 6mm shafts. prepare to do some gluing for this combination.
shafts are 4.9mm diameter, knob takes 6mm shafts. prepare to do some gluing for this combination.
mamu can you post where you got that pot and dial setup. Ive been trying to find one like this for a while now with little luck. Really If you could help me get a hold of a 200ohm "surface mount" pot and knob that would be great too, please let me know. Thanks friend.
200 ohm POT (PT10MH01-201A2020) (mouser)
Shaft for 200 ohm POT (JPEPL5012NE or 5116) (mouser)
POT knob of your choice that accommodates the size of shaft you've chosen (if using a shaft, a knob is not necessarily required)
The knob I used in Raptor takes a 6mm shaft too. I cut the 4.9mm shaft to length so that the knob/shaft would sit flush with the case, then epoxied the shaft inside the underside of the knob using VersaChem Plastic Welder 15' set time. Works great and is solid.
I posted the part numbers for the pot and shaft I used for this build in the OP.
You can go to mouser.com and enter the part number for the pot and the shaft. David84 has also posted the link to the pot and shaft and also a link to where he bought the knob for his build.
The knob I'm using is a low profile aluminum guitar bell knob that I modified for my purpose (I cut the bottom flange off). I bought it at an electronics surplus outlet quite a while back and they are now out of stock.
$5.10 is a ridiculous piece for that knob, should be 99 cents. For 5 bucks you could be a nice metal guitar knob.
Nice find. $16 seems a bit high, here's one for $8.99
http://www.ebay.com/itm/COSMOS-RV16...otentiometer-High-Quality-TOCOS-/190914680206
spec sheet:
http://www.tocos.com/local/pdf/products/RV16.pdf
nice to have you back mamu !
building a raptor and have two questions ...don't like the slide switch will try to wire up two tactiles so every thing is off and depending which botton I press will show the in voltage or out voltage ...do you see any problems with that ?
also ...on fuses ...I have 3a and 7a was going to use two 7 amp in parallel is that to low for the raptor ? with using a 4200 li po
will never vape that high but inatvertently set to high ... maybe . or should I try to find some 5 amp ones ?
mabe bj will chime in and let me know which he uses . would be nice to be somewhere at 20 amps so .
Wiring 2 tacts will work, but if you inadvertently press both tacts at the same time you'll fry the board. That's why I made sure I completely isolated input from output with the on/off/on slide switch.
The mAh or discharge rating of the batts you're using have nothing to do with choosing a fuse - you choose the fuse based on the max input current of the converter. It's ok to go a bit above or a bit below with Ihold for the fuse since there's a hold to trip current cushion, but 14A (2x 7A) Ihold is on the low side for this Raptor board. The only issue with choosing a fuse with too low of an Ihold is that you run into annoying inadvertent tripping issues from internal/external heat or if you pull higher than 14A when vaping.
You could possibly try the 2x 7A fuse since you don't plan to vape any where near 14A so you may be ok with that. If you run into tripping issues, change them out for higher Ihold fuses. If it were me though, I'd go ahead and get the proper fuse as I don't like having to re-build once I'm done.![]()