Raptor Flip-Top VV Mod with 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...

Status
Not open for further replies.

bapgood

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Apr 16, 2012
4,426
6,599
45
Utah
On your diagram, can I put a 6.2v zener where you have the switch and it would quit draining the batteries when idle if the voltage on the lipo gets below 6.2v?
Specs on the mosfet? All the higher amp mosfets I look at have a 10v gate.

I have used and tried a lot!!! of different mosfets but I think this is one that I liked and was "easier" to solder than some of the others.

Not sure on the zener diode....it might work!!!

PSMN1R2-25YLC,115 NXP Semiconductors | Mouser
 
Last edited:

BJ43

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Nov 27, 2008
5,896
7,212
82

mamu

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 29, 2009
2,551
1,523
IN USA
A little off topic. I've built about 10 raptor boxes using on/off/on switches with the same specs. Is there a certain amp or volt rating I need? Given I would like this part to handle the max of the chip.

If you are referring to using an on/off/on switch as a master kill switch, it would need to be rated to carry a high amp load.
 

mecpaul

Full Member
Jan 25, 2014
6
0
Bahrain
Mamu, firstly many thanks for sharing your build information for the Raptor chip, and I have successfully built one as well into the Soshine charger casing, primarily for stealth here in the middle east where all E-Cigs are currently banned.

My next task is to incorporate another chip into a wood mod for my daily use, and notice that your schematic has changed following your ongoing discussions for the master on/off switch, and my question is regards to the additional wiring from the Pos & Neg sense connectors on the Raptor; can these wired directly to the GND and Vout on the chip or do they have to connect directly to the 510 connector? In addition what purpose do these connections serve?
 

mamu

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 29, 2009
2,551
1,523
IN USA
Sense is a part of the converter's feedback loop that monitors (senses) if there is any voltage drop between the board and the load (atty) and if there is, the converter will compensate for it.

Sense wasn't mentioned anywhere in the Raptor datasheet, except as a figure in the Turnable Loop section so I wasn't sure if this Sense needed to be connected only if the Turnable Loop is being used and I couldn't see any reason to use the Turnable Loop feature in our mods. I emailed GE tech support way back when I initially wired Raptor with some questions about Sense and the Turnable Loop and never got a reply.

My Raptor mods are wired without Sense connected. I've never gotten a voltage drop under load at output with Raptor so it's been a non issue.

I've since learned though that if Sense is a feature of the converter it should always be connected either directly at the load (atty) for optimal feedback, or connected at the board. So, I updated my wiring to include Sense connections for the Raptor.

With our very short wiring runs from the board to the atty, I really doubt there is much, if any, internal resistance causing a voltage drop under load else we would be seeing it with our voltage readers when measuring output load/no load, so wiring at the board would be much easier if you choose to do that.
 
Good Day Mamu! I just wanted to say, I am a fan of your work, and I admire your knowledge on all of this. I recently purchased what I thought was the chip you used in this build to do a similar version of my own. However...I appear to have ordered the 60A version of this chip, and not the 20A, which is quite a bit larger, and has far more pins and what have you. I was wondering if you have any experience with this at all, or if you might be able to point me in the right direction? TIA!!!:toast:
 

Rapture

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Aug 30, 2012
338
79
Bay Area California
Can someone please help me. I'm trying to make special raptor without the volt reader and on/off/on switch. When I put the batteries on the mod fires automatically. Did I do something wrong? Or is my switch faulty? Or something else? I thought the on/off/on switch was only needed for the volt reader. Is that wrong?


Sent from my box mod using a raptor chip
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread