Yup, I forgot the resistor on the pot and wasn't planning on using the LED. What about the pin 3 and 10 question?
Raptor Flip-Top VV Mod with 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
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Follow the wiring guide for what parts are used and ignore the parts list posted in past posts - I cannot edit those posts. I can edit and upload a new wiring guide though when parts or wiring changes as that's an external link so thank goodness for that.
Thank you mamu. Just a lot of posts to wade through and wasnt even sure the answer was already in here.
Anyone have an alternative SMD FET other than the listed one SI7157DP-T1-GE3??? It is out of stock everywhere and I would really like to keep my build size down.
I've been using this P-FET in my latest builds - small DPak size: IPD042P03L3
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/IPD042P03L3%20G/IPD042P03L3%20GCT-ND/3196584
I don't externally connect pins 3 and 10. I use pin 3 for the ground connection for the 4.7K pull-down and for the ground connection for the input caps and connect pin 10 to batt -.
I ordered everything for the build, should all be here within the next week. I have one issue though.. I ordered the volt meter/screen thing, and didn't realize the shipping was going to be about 2-3 weeks. 
I have an inline volt meter, for mods and voltage drop, do you guys think I would be able to crack it open and use that screen?
I have an inline volt meter, for mods and voltage drop, do you guys think I would be able to crack it open and use that screen?
I ordered everything for the build, should all be here within the next week. I have one issue though.. I ordered the volt meter/screen thing, and didn't realize the shipping was going to be about 2-3 weeks.
I don't see why not.
and now, will it matter if i use single strand 18 gauge wire, or does it need to be multiple strand wire? I didn't realize it was solid until I got it home today. >.>
I don't think it matters, except solid is much harder to work with in several aspects.
Well.. if it proves to be a pain in my ..., I'll go and get some stranded.
Also, in the diagram, there's an LED. What purpose does it serve, and is it needed? I didn't notice it when ordering everything, so I have no led. can pick one up at radioshack if need be though.
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The p-fet alone provides you with reverse polarity protection, so during your beer night when you insert BOTH batteries the wrong way, your raptor chip won't fry up. The led is a visual indicator for batteries being the wrong way. Notice there is actually a led AND a resistor that go together. If you skip the led, you can skip the resistor too. Also note that the positive leg of the led connects to the ground (negative), because when batteries are in reverse, your ground(negative) will actually be pushing current as positive, thus making your led illuminate. I can also confirm that if you insert either one of the batteries correct and the other one incorrect, the led will not illuminate, your atty won't fire, your raptor chip won't fry. (I tested both scenarios: batt1 correct, batt2 incorrect = no led, doesn't fire. batt1 incorrect, batt2 correct = no led, doesn't fire.).
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Solid wire is not very flexible, it adds an extra layer of complexity on your first build when you don't know exactly how long wires you need, you solder stuff together and use heat shrink tubing to later find out you have extra 2-3 inches of wire on multiple spots and then you try to neatly bend them into some funny shape to fit into your box and while doing so you are potentially adding physical stress to raptor pins and/or other components while bending and twisting solid wires.
Totally agree. I prefer the flexibility of stranded. You can practically fold the 16 gauge wire I get and it will stay in that shape. Also much easier soldering stranded onto solder lugs and pins. I like the idea of the solid but not the workability.
Personally I skip the led on my pfet. But do not skip the pfet. Even as a present day non drinker I still like that protection.
Personally I skip the led on my pfet. But do not skip the pfet. Even as a present day non drinker I still like that protection.
I did my box in 18g stranded. Is there a need for 16g? According to Wire Gauge Amps Ratings for 12 volt Automotive Systems
you can push 30A on 18g for lengths of 3 feet, and they even say you could go 2g higher for 6volt system. Our wire lengths are in inches, so 18g should be more than plenty. Granted there is less builtin resistance on thicker wires, but the distance inside a box is pretty miniscule.
you can push 30A on 18g for lengths of 3 feet, and they even say you could go 2g higher for 6volt system. Our wire lengths are in inches, so 18g should be more than plenty. Granted there is less builtin resistance on thicker wires, but the distance inside a box is pretty miniscule.
The only reason I use the 16 gauge is because where I get the wire there is only 16 and 14 gauge in the flexible coated primary wires.
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