Raptor Flip-Top VV Mod with 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...

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texanator

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Jun 20, 2014
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53
dfw,tx
I'm no electrician... but if you push 500mA on two batteries to charge, isn't that like charging with roughly 250mA each? My i2 charger pushes 500mA per battery and my i4 pushes 750mA per battery when charging only on 2 bays out of 4 bays. Anyways, my i2 and i4 take a long time to charge, which makes me think charging two batteries simultaneously on 500mA would take a really long time.

About the balancing... again, I'm shooting in the dark with too much common sense :) the charger can sense the combined voltage of the two batteries in parallel config, doesn't the potential problem arise when one battery hits full and other one is not there yet, let's say you have your two batteries at 4.2v (full) and 4.0v (not full), the combined voltage is 4.1volts, so the charger keeps charging both batteries and basically trying to overcharge the one battery which is already full?
 

avpnut

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Jul 16, 2014
17
8
erie,pa USA
it does take a long time to charge, i found these 10pcs Micro USB 5V 1A Lithium Battery Charging Board Charger Module | eBay

might order them and see if they do better, wired in parallel with a 1 amp charger should do 500ma a piece. will still take a bit but i am not talking about heavy chain vaping, like if you were to take this on vacation or something, wouldnt need a charger.
 

texanator

Senior Member
Jun 20, 2014
98
53
dfw,tx
If two batteries are wired in parallel, their voltages will equalize.

this is what i was told, the trick comes if they are series, then you need a balance charger.

And this is why I like the folks here. I get to learn things and shared knowledge is power.
 
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avpnut

Full Member
Jul 16, 2014
17
8
erie,pa USA
I go thru about 2 sets of batteries daily...

In that case you would have to carry an extra set, maybe it wont be usefull to some. I just have not seen one with a charging board in it yet, thought maybe there might be a market for it. if i could find a more powerful charger it would be better but in you case probably would not help if you are constantly chain vaping. i was never a heavy smoker so i can go without for long periods. i have always been the type to enjoy a nice bold cigar and a glass of whiskey :)
 

mamu

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Mamu, what size magnets did you use on the G size box and the lid?

For the lid, I used 6mm x 3mm (I also use 1/4" x 1/8" sometimes) and drill the hole to that size. For the case I used 4mm x 2mm - I ream the hole just an unch and press fit in place leaving a bit raised so the lid doesn't wobble. I apply Araldite to the all the holes before popping the magnets in (5' set - red and white tubes).

...I am not using magnets on this, with the screws I can kind of center up the lid as I tighten the screws and not feel the seam.

If you're not using magnets, make sure you drill a vent hole in the bottom of the case. With magnets if a batt vents, the lid will pop off. With screws, you need a vent hole for safety just like you would for a tube mod. I drill a 1/8" vent hole in the bottom of the case even when using magnets.
 

jeepster67

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Jan 8, 2014
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Wenatchee, WA, USA
Damn, I forgot the vent hole. I thought about it a while ago and planned on putting one in, I just forgot. Been holding a bomb for the last few days. Thanks for the reminder.
I put magnets in a 1590B box lid and just counter sunk the screws into the main body. It didn't rock at all, the thing I didn't really like is that it would shift a little from side to side if pushed. I've been trying to think of a way to make it less noticeable but haven't come up with any good ideas yet.
I used these magnets and they were almost to strong, you have to have fingernails to get the cover off. Super Magnet Man Super disc magnet They are suposed to have the best Nemesis magnets also.
 

branflan

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Dec 14, 2012
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No, didn't take any pics. Next time I do a build, I'll take some pics.
I'm just trying to see how you're using those strap fuses. I bought some awhile back but didn't see how I could incorporate them in a build.

Stacking everything on the chip seems like it would cut down on the available width. Currently I build mine with the inductor touching the wall and the back of the pcb facing the battery, it's tight.
 

mamu

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With the 1550P I stack everything, including the p-fet and fuses on the Raptor. With the 1590G I adhere the voltmeter to the top of the batt holder then put the fuses and the p-fet under the voltmeter and the Raptor on the side. I also snip a bit off each end of the fuses with both builds.

Both builds are very labor intensive with dremelling the inside of the case to get more width and also dremelling the corner posts to get everything to fit and also dremelling the underside of the 510 22mm washer so I don't get the tilt. It's a pita for sure and pretty much a full 2-day build, but worth it to get a small mod that is hand friendly. If the Hammond cases didn't have a smaller width toward the front than the back it would save me a lot of dremelling to get just an unch more space.
 

branflan

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With the 1550P I stack everything, including the p-fet and fuses on the Raptor. With the 1590G I adhere the voltmeter to the top of the batt holder then put the fuses and the p-fet under the voltmeter and the Raptor on the side. I also snip a bit off each end of the fuses with both builds.

Both builds are very labor intensive with dremelling the inside of the case to get more width and also dremelling the corner posts to get everything to fit and also dremelling the underside of the 510 22mm washer so I don't get the tilt. It's a pita for sure and pretty much a full 2-day build, but worth it to get a small mod that is hand friendly. If the Hammond cases didn't have a smaller width toward the front than the back it would save me a lot of dremelling to get just an unch more space.

My first try at dremeling the inside of the case didn't go so well... I let the cutoff wheel sit in one spot too long and it went through to the custom powdercoat I had on the other side. Oh well, was more careful on my next try. That 1-2mm really does help with the chip not interfering with the batteries as much.

HH9Wnpil.jpg


VX0BVdal.jpg
 

xxiaze

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Jul 4, 2014
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Can anyone please tell me which strip fuses to use in the 1590g box? I was going to use the 2 RGEF900 yellow fuses but I guess theyre to big for the application? I also am picking up the 4.7k ohm pulldowns instead of the 7.2ks. Anything else other than that changed from the original compnent list on page 1?

But if the only thing answered is the fuses haha that would be great. A part number from mouser would be amazing! Thank you :)
 

xxiaze

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Jul 4, 2014
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Holly hell... im looking at mamus parts picture for the 1590g... I see a diode, resistors, caps, fuses, 510, voltmeter, 3way switches, firing button, pfet, potentiometer, bat sleds and the module. Will this be everything I need for my 1590g?

Still have the question in the air about which 3way switches to use and which strip fuses are to be used. Im just about to place my order but need these last details. Sorry for the ramble on! Thank you for the help ahaid of time. Savin liVes over here...
 
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