Raptor Flip-Top VV Mod with 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
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One quick question that I noticed was odd after my fourth day using my Raptor. I have not fully drained the batteries until today and the mod finally started giving me a weird low voltage out or not firing. I am using a 5.6 Zener Diode but my batteries managed to get to around 2.7volts each. I thought the Zener Diode would cause this cut off to be around 6v?
Is my Zener Diode possibly messed up or is this normal?
Is my Zener Diode possibly messed up or is this normal?
To my understanding the diodes come in varying % accuracy.
Some are 1,5,even 10%.
That's just my understanding of the specs. I could be wrong and im sure someone with more knowledge will answer you soon.
I haven't built one yet, my list of needed items is getting short though (battery sled, master switch, on/off/on switch, 1s-6s screen, and enclosure. Neck all i really need is a battery sled and enclosure for now...)
No, that's not normal.
Like jugga said, tolerance will come into play at what the actual cutoff will be. Also, make sure the zener is actually 5.6v, was not damaged during the build, is wired correctly with the band facing away from the on/off control pin, and has good soldered contact.
Thank you, my soldering work is not amazing and the Zener Diode is connected to the screw terminal on the Button, I did not notice the band, that may be the problem! First time doing a project like this so I am almost positive that is the problem.
Thank you again Mamu!
EDIT: This is part number of the Zener Diode I used: 1N5232BFSCT-ND from Digikey, and I see the band now lol. It does appear I have the band facing the Board. So I need to have the band facing the switch and that is the problem!
Thank you again Mamu!
EDIT: This is part number of the Zener Diode I used: 1N5232BFSCT-ND from Digikey, and I see the band now lol. It does appear I have the band facing the Board. So I need to have the band facing the switch and that is the problem!
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http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...=sGAEpiMZZMvygUB3GLcD7jZSyzxDqivkrKtg8288p18=
http://www.mouser.com/Search/m_Prod...020virtualkey53100000virtualkey531-PT10MV-200
Will either of these pots work, if so which would be easier to mount/ work with? Thanks I'm a newbie.
With the first one could I just dremel a hole and have the dial on the surface of the box, basically not needing a shaft or knob? Idk if I'm making sense.
http://www.mouser.com/Search/m_Prod...020virtualkey53100000virtualkey531-PT10MV-200
Will either of these pots work, if so which would be easier to mount/ work with? Thanks I'm a newbie.
With the first one could I just dremel a hole and have the dial on the surface of the box, basically not needing a shaft or knob? Idk if I'm making sense.
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Both pots would work. The first one is out of stock at mouser. The second one requires a separate item (knob / shaft). Both require epoxy for a good mount, so not that much difference. You do need to be more careful with the epoxy on the second one, so that you won't get the epoxy anywhere near where it needs to turn. Oh, also with the second one, if building into a metal box, you need to isolate the legs from touching the metal box or you will short it to the ground (depending on which side you put the legs).
I have bunches of the first ones laying around, I can sell them $2 each plus shipping if you want some.
Shipping would be whatever it costs to get a bubble wrap manila envelope + postage, not much, and
the shipping cost would be near the same for 1 or 50 of them
I'm not looking to make profit on them,
just happen have too many of them from various builds as leftovers.
I have bunches of the first ones laying around, I can sell them $2 each plus shipping if you want some.
Shipping would be whatever it costs to get a bubble wrap manila envelope + postage, not much, and
the shipping cost would be near the same for 1 or 50 of them
I'm not looking to make profit on them,just happen have too many of them from various builds as leftovers.
Thanks for the input, I'm still getting my parts list together but I'll pm you when I'm needing a pot and get a couple from you.Both pots would work. The first one is out of stock at mouser. The second one requires a separate item (knob / shaft). Both require epoxy for a good mount, so not that much difference. You do need to be more careful with the epoxy on the second one, so that you won't get the epoxy anywhere near where it needs to turn. Oh, also with the second one, if building into a metal box, you need to isolate the legs from touching the metal box or you will short it to the ground (depending on which side you put the legs).
I have bunches of the first ones laying around, I can sell them $2 each plus shipping if you want some.
Shipping would be whatever it costs to get a bubble wrap manila envelope + postage, not much, and
the shipping cost would be near the same for 1 or 50 of them
just happen have too many of them from various builds as leftovers.
Thanks again!
the tolerance on that second pot is pretty terrible. I wouldn't recommend that one at all
I'm looking into building one of these and getting my parts list together. I've read through a lot of pages and see several references to the 7.5kΩ resistor as well as in the parts list. But what I want to firm up is I cant find that resistor in the parts layout image. I do see the 4.7kΩ resistor tied to gnd & on/off. Is that just a typo and should be where the 7.5kΩ goes or am I just missing it?
Thanks
Thanks
Finished my first box ever the other day raptor 20a in 1590b, now I finished my second box raptor 20a in 1590g, using full size switch, full size pot and full size fuses. It was a very challenging build. I'm thinking a pull tab for the batts would be handy. Now to try building some squonkers/sx350/OKR boxes.
Hey where did you find that blue screen i can only find red even searching blue on fleabay
If you look at this diagram, there is a 7.5k in place of the 4.7 k but idk which one to use either. Someone with more knowledge will have to answer.
Edit; I do know that mamu's diagram is linked externally so it is always up to date. So I'm guessing she changed the 7.5 to 4.7k for some reason.
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If you look at this diagram, there is a 7.5k in place of the 4.7 k but idk which one to use either. Someone with more knowledge will have to answer.
Edit; I do know that mamu's diagram is linked externally so it is always up to date. So I'm guessing she changed the 7.5 to 4.7k for some reason.
The 7.5k was cause issues with autofiring especially with a 12v input.
The 4.7k solves this problem
The fire switch that's listed is out of stock on mouser, there's a blue one also pv5 but it says anti-vandal switch? Is there a difference?
I'll say once again, always follow the wiring diagram in the OP, not the parts list in that post. The wiring diagram is externally linked and always kept updated. I can no longer edit the OP to change the parts list to correspond with the wiring diagram. I wish I could, but that option is not available and hasn't been for months and months.
I know there's a lot of posts in this thread, but if you take the time to read them you'll find why we changed the pull-down resistor from 7.5K to 4.7K. You'll also find out why we now connect +/- Sense. You'll also find lots of tips and techniques of how modders did their builds and the parts they used and links to those parts.
I know there's a lot of posts in this thread, but if you take the time to read them you'll find why we changed the pull-down resistor from 7.5K to 4.7K. You'll also find out why we now connect +/- Sense. You'll also find lots of tips and techniques of how modders did their builds and the parts they used and links to those parts.
Man i bought a project box from radio shack cause i done have the tools to work with metal.
Its outside dimensions are 5"x2.5"x2" this thing is massive, decided Im going to try and build it inside as compact as i can. And make it so i can carry juice/rayon/wire/tools and all the jazz.
Im going to be making it tomorrow, just got to leave room for the screen, cause i haven't ordered it yet still hoping to hear about that blue one,
Also i don't feel like paying shipping just for a mini-on/off/on slide switch. I know i can use tact switches or even separate switches as long as i don't turn both on at same time, if i was to do that is there some way to wire a fuse in there or some sorta protection against pressing both at same time?
This thing is going to be huge, any advice of "soft" mounting everything incase i decide to put in another smaller enclosure later? Thanks!
Its outside dimensions are 5"x2.5"x2" this thing is massive, decided Im going to try and build it inside as compact as i can. And make it so i can carry juice/rayon/wire/tools and all the jazz.
Im going to be making it tomorrow, just got to leave room for the screen, cause i haven't ordered it yet still hoping to hear about that blue one,
Also i don't feel like paying shipping just for a mini-on/off/on slide switch. I know i can use tact switches or even separate switches as long as i don't turn both on at same time, if i was to do that is there some way to wire a fuse in there or some sorta protection against pressing both at same time?
This thing is going to be huge, any advice of "soft" mounting everything incase i decide to put in another smaller enclosure later? Thanks!
Both pots would work. The first one is out of stock at mouser. The second one requires a separate item (knob / shaft). Both require epoxy for a good mount, so not that much difference. You do need to be more careful with the epoxy on the second one, so that you won't get the epoxy anywhere near where it needs to turn. Oh, also with the second one, if building into a metal box, you need to isolate the legs from touching the metal box or you will short it to the ground (depending on which side you put the legs).
I have bunches of the first ones laying around, I can sell them $2 each plus shipping if you want some.
Shipping would be whatever it costs to get a bubble wrap manila envelope + postage, not much, and
the shipping cost would be near the same for 1 or 50 of them
just happen have too many of them from various builds as leftovers.
I would be interested in a few of those, 10 would be good if you have enough.
Thanks mamu, yea I know I got lazy looking for the answer I read up through page 16 then skimmed around this thread and poked a bit on breaktru as well. It just wasn't time efficient. BTW thanks for all your contributions I've read and followed your guides on several occasions.
Question? How can i test resistance of a pot? I have i couple lying around (from dead ego-c-twist, and spinners) that i might want to use if i can fir my build.
I took back the big enclosure to radioshack. And ordered the 1590b, on-off-on switch. And the shaft for The pot listed in OP(first time i ordered knob) and the knob is unusable least to me. So i thought heck if i could figure out resistance of the one i have lying around i could figure the proper size resistor to make it do what we want. And use the nice knobs.
PS. Also to hopefully avoid another question if i do figures out what resistance the pot is how would i determine the size resistor i would need?
I took back the big enclosure to radioshack. And ordered the 1590b, on-off-on switch. And the shaft for The pot listed in OP(first time i ordered knob) and the knob is unusable least to me. So i thought heck if i could figure out resistance of the one i have lying around i could figure the proper size resistor to make it do what we want. And use the nice knobs.
PS. Also to hopefully avoid another question if i do figures out what resistance the pot is how would i determine the size resistor i would need?
Here's the blue voltage reader I ordered but they are all over ebay just search for blue 0.28 voltmeter. The only one I found in the US was 15 bucks which is beyond rediculous. And I would buy a good quality pot, bc resistance isn't the only factor. You want accuracy as well.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/171457011320?txnId=1270850713007
Pics in description .
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