Rayon wick, better flow, flavor, saturation and Nic Hit!

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1mouse3

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here is a rayon test in a orchid i just got, ~.6Ω 28g dual 5 1/2 rap 2.5mm. this will knock the taste buds straight out your mouth with some code red

2014-12-01%2019.54.17.jpg
 
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TheKiwi

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Hello people! Not sure if anyone remembered me sharing pictures of my TAIFUN gt + dna40 build.

That was at the 19 tank mark. Over thanksgiving I went through another 9 to 11 tanks of 2ml (nano kit). Here's how it looks like now

0a6d97fc0716ca964ea65f87eaae13f8.jpg


Not too shabby not too shabby. Unfortunately after so much juice, the left side is stRting to get quite a bit darker. Meh.

ETA: went back and found the picture at the 19th tank mark.

0c258ec3a3147e12a740c7f82d372815.jpg

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TheKiwi

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Kiwi, WOW! I'm jealous of how your coil looks like after so much juice! I guess that's mostly due to the magic of dna40 not burning the juice! What is your dna40 based battery?

Possibly. I've gotten loooong wick life with rayon previously, but not as much as this. Close to 60ml of custard juice really just blows my mind.

I'm using a vaporflask 40 and a rdna40, both at 430F, 26.5 watts.


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Chinook

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Possibly. I've gotten loooong wick life with rayon previously, but not as much as this. Close to 60ml of custard juice really just blows my mind.

I'm using a vaporflask 40 and a rdna40, both at 430F, 26.5 watts.


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I'm speechless about the coil+wick mileage you got there :)

Thanks on the hardware info.
 

JeremyR

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Hello people! Not sure if anyone remembered me sharing pictures of my TAIFUN gt + dna40 build.

That was at the 19 tank mark. Over thanksgiving I went through another 9 to 11 tanks of 2ml (nano kit). Here's how it looks like now

0a6d97fc0716ca964ea65f87eaae13f8.jpg


Not too shabby not too shabby. Unfortunately after so much juice, the left side is stRting to get quite a bit darker. Meh.


Hey kiwi, I bet if you trim the full tail down to the size of the other side it will go clear..

That right there is showing how the fatest, thickest, most dense part will pull the juice to it.

You can see in the pic that the dark side is thicker than the clean side. Even it out and you'll get another 20+ tanks ! I would trim the fluff sticking above the coil to equal the clean side. It will run clear!

Vape on 'brother.
 
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JeremyR

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I'm speechless about the coil+wick mileage you got there :)

Thanks on the hardware info.

It's not unusual for us...

and that's *without* a D40... With a straight voltage device you can go 100-130ml without significant gunking, if you make the wick the right way. I routinely go 100ml and tbev ran a .3-4 ohm with custard to 120ml plenty of times. Density and the cut make all the difference.

Vape on!

(However the d40 is even cleaner than straight voltage)
 
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Thayamax

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Hey kiwi, I bet if you trim the full tail down to the size of the other side it will go clear..

That right there is showing how the fatest, thickest, most dense part will pull the juice to it.

You can see in the pic that the dark side is thicker than the clean side. Even it out and you'll get another 20+ tanks ! I would trim the fluff sticking above the coil to equal the clean side. It will run clear!

Vape on 'brother.

I've done this and it really does work. Even after one side has gotten darker than the other I trimmed a bit off the darker side, and after vaping for a short time the darker side cleared up and matched the other side. It's truly amazing how this stuff works.
 

JeremyR

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I've been using "medicine bottle" rayon (MB for short). I just opened my box of Sally's rayon and I finally know what the "squeak" is, when the wick is pulled back and forth in the coil. The thing is, my MB rayon (and it IS rayon) never squeaked. The only thing that could account for this that I can think of is I boiled the MB rayon and did not boil the Sally's. Anyone here boil their Sally's that can tell me if they get or don't get the squeak?

You raised a point that I was just getting ready to post about.

The bottle/ pharmaceutical rayon is different. I would say better... It doesn't require as much density as Sally's. I will get into details later tonight.

It's not the boiling it's the fiber size I believe.
 

Lbox88

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I think I've just about got it now. went through 2 wicks that were a little on the skinny side still, after running a few tanks through them I poked them and they didn't expand back out. This is my most recent one now:

IMG_20141201_220844087_zpsiingq3jt.jpg


IMG_20141201_220902387_zpszjd6qmvm.jpg


I was watching as I filled it, and in priming the wick first by just slowly dripping onto it... my juice soaked into the wick, drained down it, and I had it to the point juice was dripping off the wick into the tank while not pooling onto the top of the deck. Wick runs halfway down into the tank in a pointy tail and I pulled to coil a little bit to open up some spaces between the coils.
 

JeremyR

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Sounds like your getting pretty close!

It's a bit of trial and error to figure it out, glad your making progress.

The wick is looking really nice from here.

Remember to inspect coil density after a tank to ensure good contact in the coil.

Note- Any off taste after the first pull also shows that it's too tight in the coil.
 
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Chinook

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It's not unusual for us...

and that's *without* a D40... With a straight voltage device you can go 100-130ml without significant gunking, if you make the wick the right way. I routinely go 100ml and tbev ran a .3-4 ohm with custard to 120ml plenty of times. Density and the cut make all the difference.

Vape on!

(However the d40 is even cleaner than straight voltage)

Thanks!

Any suggestions for how to optimize the wick for a Protank 2 coil? Let's say 2 - 2.5 Ohms with an internal coil diameter of 1.5 mm.

I see the variables as:

Coil inside diameter
Wick amount (very stuffed, stuffed, just snug, slightly loose)
Wick shape for the two ends outside of the coil (rectangular, tapered)
Top wick or no top wick

For the wick, I cut up a piece of Rayon and I try to gently stretch it to get any slacks out of it. Then I put enough to go in and create some resistance on the coils when dragged. Then a put a thin layer of top/flavor wick.

I was putting almost 50% more in earlier builds as much as I could stuff in similar to what you showed in your EVOD video. It was getting stuffed so much that the rest of the wick besides the coil was puffing up and sealing the gap between the silicone sleeve and the coil. There was no need for a top wick.

I might need to upgrade to 1.8 mm I.D. coil and hopefully won't need the top wick.

I'm curious if top/flavor wick makes a difference for worse. I have a feeling that it makes the coil gunk faster since juice is trapped between the coil and the top wick and might get caramelized multiple times.

Thanks.
 

JeremyR

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1/16 with enough rayon in the coil cut wicks short. No overwick. Overwick just slows the the flow by over filling the wick channels.

If your needing overwick for dry hits the rayon is loose in te coil. You want the big fluff outside the coil. That's shows you have enough density in the coil.

Fairly snug and just cut the wicks straight outside the chamber.

How much power are you running?
 

cindycated

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I never did a top wick on my Evods, but my coil diameter was a tad bigger - I think it was 1/16" (1.6mm). What I found important were coil diameter (match the wick slots) and coil height (line up the mandrel in the wick slots and tug down at the legs when installing coil). I wicked it tight, but still slid back and forth without mangling the coil. Then trim wick flush with that bottom lip. I used 32g wire - thicker wire probably would've obstructed air too much.
 

awsum140

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Again, I found a 14 gauge needle fits the wick holes in a Protank very nicely and makes a good coil mandrel. No top or flavor wick is needed at that size. Trim the wick at the outer ring, then fluff it a bit. When the air tube is in place and you push down on the wick, you should see a tiny amount of space between the wick and the air tube base. This works for me and I get ~80ml or so through a head rebuilt this way. That's using 34 gauge at 2.4 ohms with NR leads welded on.
 

Chinook

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1/16 with enough rayon in the coil cut wicks short. No overwick. Overwick just slows the the flow by over filling the wick channels.

If your needing overwick for dry hits the rayon is loose in te coil. You want the big fluff outside the coil. That's shows you have enough density in the coil.

Fairly snug and just cut the wicks straight outside the chamber.

How much power are you running?


I never did a top wick on my Evods, but my coil diameter was a tad bigger - I think it was 1/16" (1.6mm). What I found important were coil diameter (match the wick slots) and coil height (line up the mandrel in the wick slots and tug down at the legs when installing coil). I wicked it tight, but still slid back and forth without mangling the coil. Then trim wick flush with that bottom lip. I used 32g wire - thicker wire probably would've obstructed air too much.

Thank you :)

I'm running 6.5-7 Watts.

The stock coils and the pre-made ones I got from FT has 1.5 mm diameter. 1/16 comes out to 1.59 mm -- that can make a difference in this case in terms of not needing an overwick.

With the 1.5 mm coil, I really need an overwick to prevent flooding and gurgling. Or I really need to over stuff the coil with wick which might prematurely gunk the coils.

I just got a micro drill bit set and 1.8 mm bit perfectly fits into the channel. A coil with that internal diameter should perfectly close the channel.

I'll post some drawings different levels of wick stuffing :)

By the way, does straight Kanthal A1 coils cause any burning in the silicone grommets for the EVOD/Protank heads?
 
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