Sadly, no. But if you are searching for mentions, it can help... depending on your name
Rayon wick, better flow, flavor, saturation and Nic Hit!
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Sadly, no. But if you are searching for mentions, it can help... depending on your name
Any time, Juggs... and yeah, that was from the Sally's coil. That's the only rayon that I've tried so far, and I've been happy with it.
Haven't taken pics yet, but it seems you figured it out in the mean time anyway. That's good. I managed to improve my wicking further by thinning out the tails from "underneath" by about 70%. I also made sure the wick doesn't impede air at the top (where it curves into the coil) so the pressure/vacuum system is not impeded. Right now I'm running at 16W with a temp that hoovers around 390°F. I can now take 10 second puffs if I want to without the temp going up, which means the wicking is constantly following as it should. I do have the s-kit BTW, but I don't think I will install it, the airflow is just fine as I set it. I didn't really expect it, but I'm a fan of the V4 - despite the price-tag.
Yup - then it will be asking "Can I Taste Your Juice"...
Heh, I heard that sound bite in, erm, 'context' a few days ago. Of course, I could have guessed, but it is indeed a clip from a porn movie. I don't think I'm going to try to dig it up though, as I would probably constantly see Phil's face on top of it.
I believe it is Sallys, i received like 50ft of the stuff from @Kaezziel(thanks again)
It looks so pure white due to my poor lighting in room combined with macro focus and flash on my ancient galaxy S2 lol. That also makes it look thicker than it really is
Wow, it really looks different in a close up!
I picked up a Kanger Protank II on a steal recently, have any of you folks used rayon in the head builds for these? I've been rebuilding my Kanger T3S heads for half a year and they are almost identical to the Protank heads but for some reason I'm having a lot of problems getting more then a day or two with the Protank before they burn. I think the problem lies in the way the heads sit in the base with the recess that the ends of the wick set in and that is causing problems with the wicking unlike the T3S base that is wide open to the juice. I tried leaving a thinned tail on the top of the wick and positioning it so it sticks up above that recess. Thoughts?
Willy, I rebuild PT heads with a 12 gauge needle and leave the needle in place, held by the air tube, while I mount the coil. Then, wick as usual with rayon. Don't pull the coil down into the cup, leave it up high and even with the wick slots. Trim the wick short and you're good to go for at least 50ml.
I've had luck with the PT2 tank and coils with aero base, 1/16 ID horizontal and vertical, horizontal was fine with no over wick, and the rayon trimmed close to head like a stock coil. Vcore though i use ss mesh on the outside of wick touching the juice channels, and it keeps rayon in contact with coil (only way i could get one to work lol) i actually use a head from a TS3, bored out the airhole/positive pin, and the chimney. I also opened up the aero base to 1/16 holes and added three holes.
Hey slick, looks like the tails are way too big. I know I sound like a broken record.
Either too much wick overall in the coil or you need to thin the tails considerably so you still have a gap at the top corners when the chimney is on. It looks so thick I don't see how its wicking well.
Tip- cut the wicks very short so there is room for juice to get down into the base at the wick ends... when the wick is pulled up/ out there should not be a creace where the slots are if there is it will be choked off. You only need enough to loosely fill the slots.
Either too much wick overall in the coil or you need to thin the tails considerably so you still have a gap at the top corners when the chimney is on. It looks so thick I don't see how its wicking well.
Tip- cut the wicks very short so there is room for juice to get down into the base at the wick ends... when the wick is pulled up/ out there should not be a creace where the slots are if there is it will be choked off. You only need enough to loosely fill the slots.
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GREAT!!! First we got double pen, then rayon balls, now we're filling in slots!
-Kingboomer
GREAT!!! First we got double pen, then rayon balls, now we're filling in slots!
-Kingboomer
#forever12
I build mine with ID 1.8mm and had good results with it with no need for a top wick.
One of the tricks with small devices like PT heads is to balance the coil size so that the right amount of wick is in the coil without blocking the wick ports or being too tight in the wick ports. I tried a number of coil sizes and found the 14 gauge needle, I know I said 12 gauge but that is wrong, worked best for me. No over wick or flavor wick is needed and they last for a long time. As a dodge, I have tucked some of the excess wick back into the chimney assembly if I overdo it. That allows good wicking flow through those little ports. Keeping them short, as short as you can trim them after the air tube is on is also important. The idea being the shortest, straightest path to the coil for the wick. Usually I check to see if there's a little space between the wick and the top of the port when I press the wick down with tweezers or a small screwdriver.
A little trial and error and I'm sure you'll find the right combination for you.
A little trial and error and I'm sure you'll find the right combination for you.
I think I might be cutting my wicks a bit too long for the PT2 heads. I was thinking about this lately too. The wicks are coming out all the way out to the edge of the bottom flange (largest diameter in the head along the wick slots). As Jeremy also mentioned, it's not leaving much free room for juice to get down into the base at the wick end
I think you are also suggesting that they should be trimmed shorter than the bottom "flange", right?
When I trim them I have the air tube and silicon washer in place. I use flush cutters and trim as tight as I can get against the silicon washer. If I had to give it a length I'd estimate 1/32 to 3/64 long which is pretty short.
the biggest thing I have been working on lately is just getting the right amount of wick in my coils. I always end up with burnt cotton and nasty coils. I clean my coils really well every rewick but have to rewick like everyday. its crazy that I am still learning how to wick well even after having this mod for 6 months
this is my latest effort.
this is my latest effort.
Is that cotton or rayon?
If it's rayon, then your tails are definitely way too thick... density in the coil is probably fine, though.
Great, thanks for the clarification! Afterwards, do you invert the washer for vaping?
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