RDA RDA not hitting like it should

[nkr501]

So, after after a few days of using my Troll I could't quite put my finger on why it hadn't been hitting hard. What was even more unsettling was the fact that my ohm meter read .33 ohms while and my ipv mini 2 read "low resistance" when it should fire down to .2 ohms.

It was hitting on my mech mod, but it was really weak and it took FOREVER to heat up. This was also bothering me. I noticed that one of my screws was a little janky, but I didn't pay any attention to it. I just kept taking weak hits, assuming that my battery was garbage and my ohm reader was off.

Well, today after a coil kept popping out I decided to change the screw out. BAM! Works like a charm. I guess the kanthal was shifting around too much for my ipv to get a good read and throwing my ohm reader off for what ever reason. So, if anyone has any similar issues...check your screws on your RBAs before you do anything else. A loose or stripped screw will definitely screw with your resistance and how well your rba fires on your mod.

 

[Steelgirl]

I was having same issue with mech mod (REO) with Derringer. It went on for about a week. Exact same symptoms lol. I was getting so frustrated. The weekend finally arrived and I rebuilt a coil and all was well. But perhaps I was having a loose screw issue also.

 

[nkr501]

I was having same issue with mech mod (REO) with Derringer. It went on for about a week. Exact same symptoms lol. I was getting so frustrated. The weekend finally arrived and I rebuilt a coil and all was well. But perhaps I was having a loose screw issue also.

Could of been. A buddy of mine told me that sometimes when juice is in there and heats up they can slowly push the screws up, so its very likely. Either way, glad that yours is working right too

Anyone else have this problem from time to time?

 

[I'mnotZak]

Mi issues are with nickel builds and the philips screws on the posts. They just don't seem to hold and ultimately, I crank them down and cut the legs. Does anyone know the size of these philips screws and where I can get replacement hex type grub screws?

 

[Blackboar]

A good way to check that your connection is good, right after you've installed your coils, is to bend the lead back and forth after you've tighten down your connections. Keep the coil jig on the coil so you can see. If the coil moves when your bending the lead back and forth, you have a bad connection that can lead to a short. If the coil stays still, you're good to go.

Also consider using wire cutters to snip the leads. If you wind them to break off, you may loosen the connection.

Lastly, tighten down the post screws every time you change your wicks.

 

[T0mmy1977]

I have the same weak performance you describe. My Plume Veil Clone hits better on my Kanger K Box than it does on this cheap mech mod I got from FT. Any idea why?

This is the mod.

 

[Blackboar]

With any mech mid, performance is entirely build related. In a regulated mod, you can adjust the settings to overcome a less than optimal build. So if you want the plume veil to work well in the mod, even a cheaper clone mod, just test out different builds, place the coils closer or further away from the post, wick it with less or a bit more wicking material, and finally play around with the airflow. Once you get that all down, you should get a really satisfying vape out of a mech.

I wouldn't be doing right if I didn't mention using batteries than can properly handle your build

 

[Nikea Tiber]

Mi issues are with nickel builds and the philips screws on the posts. They just don't seem to hold and ultimately, I crank them down and cut the legs. Does anyone know the size of these philips screws and where I can get replacement hex type grub screws?

McMaster-Carr carries a wide variety of grub screws. The most common sizes for RDAs are M2, M2.5, and M3.
Typically you want a flat or dome tipped grub screw.
If you have a file an alternative is to dress the tips of your button head screws so they don't amputate coil leads.
I'd recommend grub screws over button head screws. They are less likely to back out and tend to provide a better mechanical connection, especially with clones thatbmay have the post hole drilled slightly too low.

 

[I'mnotZak]

McMaster-Carr carries a wide variety of grub screws. The most common sizes for RDAs are M2, M2.5, and M3.
Typically you want a flat or dome tipped grub screw.
If you have a file an alternative is to dress the tips of your button head screws so they don't amputate coil leads.
I'd recommend grub screws over button head screws. They are less likely to back out and tend to provide a better mechanical connection, especially with clones thatbmay have the post hole drilled slightly too low.

Thank you Nikea! I appreciate the information and response.

 

[T0mmy1977]

With any mech mid, performance is entirely build related. In a regulated mod, you can adjust the settings to overcome a less than optimal build. So if you want the plume veil to work well in the mod, even a cheaper clone mod, just test out different builds, place the coils closer or further away from the post, wick it with less or a bit more wicking material, and finally play around with the airflow. Once you get that all down, you should get a really satisfying vape out of a mech.

I wouldn't be doing right if I didn't mention using batteries than can properly handle your build

I watched a video of The Vapor Chronicles building/wicking the Plume Veil and it's performing much better now. Thanks

 

[Markill]

on several occasions, i'll notice my resistance getting jumpy and the dripper just not working like it normally does. i tighten down the connections, and it's back to normal

 

[entropy1049]

on several occasions, i'll notice my resistance getting jumpy and the dripper just not working like it normally does. i tighten down the connections, and it's back to normal

We should always remember there's a lot of thermal expansion and cooling going on between the screws, posts, and coil legs in our atties. At the first sign of misbehavior, checking coil post tightness should be one of our first steps in trouble-shooting.

 

[nkr501]

We should always remember there's a lot of thermal expansion and cooling going on between the screws, posts, and coil legs in our atties. At the first sign of misbehavior, checking coil post tightness should be one of our first steps in trouble-shooting.

Since I first posted this, I have made it a habit to check my screws every once in a while. I put better screws in it and it doesn't really happen any more.