Not really. After I install the wick in the coil I blow off all loose stuff. Once it gets wet with juice I never have a problem with fraying.
READYxWICK for non cotton people
- Thread starter Big Hitter
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Hi Mike, I don't think you have anything to worry about; but, I don't want you to take my word for it. More on this later. I've written quite a bit about this material with pointers to previous research by others when interest in this media first started last year.
Just curious though where did you hear that this material had to be boiled?
One thing you shouldn't do if you're concerned about small particles is torch it before use. This will certainly dry the material excessively and if incorrectly torched damage the media fraying it and producing the very particles you're talking about.
Secondly, is it treated or cleaned?
Let us know won't you?
I'll fill you in as you come back.
Good luck.
Well I've been using some 3mm ReadyXwick for a week now on two different Reos and thought it was pretty cool. I love being able to dry burn the gunk off my wick & coil and I like that I never get a burnt tasting hit. So this morning I accidentally knocked over one of my Reos when I had the top cap off and happened to hit a corner right on the coil so bam, coil is shot. So I was in a hurry I grabbed a micro coil out of a little pile of pre-wound coils I made last weekend and threw it on and slammed some KGD cotton in it and ran out the door. First vape and I was like OMG!!! I forgot how good this juice tastes.... and I realized that while I like all the aspects of using the readyxwick, it just doesn't compare to KGD or CelluCotton taste wise. It seems to wick just fine, vapor production is good, (Thanks to all the tips I've read in this thread) but taste is just not as good.
I'll still keep it on one of my Reos and try a few different builds to see if I just haven't found the right setup to make it taste better, but I was actually a little shocked at how much better the KGD wick tasted after using the readyxwick all week. I did another taste test when I got home and side by side the cotton tasted markedly better to my taste buds. Of course the wicks only last one of two days, but if I can't get the readyxwick to taste any better the advantages do not outweigh the fact that in my opinion KGD just taste better.
Jus thought I'd stick my 2 cents in. So far readyxwick is a great product, but not for my BF atomizers on my Reos.
Ken
I'll still keep it on one of my Reos and try a few different builds to see if I just haven't found the right setup to make it taste better, but I was actually a little shocked at how much better the KGD wick tasted after using the readyxwick all week. I did another taste test when I got home and side by side the cotton tasted markedly better to my taste buds. Of course the wicks only last one of two days, but if I can't get the readyxwick to taste any better the advantages do not outweigh the fact that in my opinion KGD just taste better.
Jus thought I'd stick my 2 cents in. So far readyxwick is a great product, but not for my BF atomizers on my Reos.
Ken
Last edited:
Ditto, never noticed too many particles but I give a good blow before I squonk it the first time.
Once its wet nothing should get inhaled ..... IMO of course.
BTW, love all the techy stuff in this thread and big thanks for MTV for continuing to pop in and advise folks.
But I'm beginning to realize I'm either (a) not too fussy .... of (b) pretty darn lucky because I get a fantastic vape just wrapping coils freehand.
It did take me three tries though on day one. First try was with no mandrel inserted while i wrapped. Terrible wicking it was pinched off bad. Second try was with a hype needle my biggest (??) Green color base 14g maybe ?? ..... that was also terrible at wicking when I pulled the mandrel out the wick was way too loose.
Third try was the ticket and I've repeated it dozens of times with the results perfect for my vaping style every time. That was with a large paperclip as the mandrel. I wind the coil by hand with the tension as similar as you can going by hand. I do the install and adjustments while the paper clip is in the wick. Last thing I do is pull the mandrel out .... blow off any stray particles and squonk. I soak the wick three times and its off to the races. First 3-5 hits might be funny tasting but I keep it soaked good the first few minutes then everything is awesome for days and days.
Just don't want anyone scared off from trying RxW if they wish..... Great results can be repeated time and time again with little effort and no special tools.
Hi Mike, I don't think you have anything to worry about; but, I don't want you to take my word for it. More on this later. I've written quite a bit about this material with pointers to previous research by others when interest in this media first started last year.
Just curious though where did you hear that this material had to be boiled?
One thing you shouldn't do if you're concerned about small particles is torch it before use. This will certainly dry the material excessively and if incorrectly torched damage the media fraying it and producing the very particles you're talking about.
Secondly, is it treated or cleaned?
Let us know won't you?
I'll fill you in as you come back.
Good luck.
But if you do not torch it beforehand the ends fray excessively when you cut them? And then you cannot cut one end to a point to screw into the coil? Or am I missing something?
ReadyX will not fray like silica does! Sharp cut with nail trimmer. Cut one end at angle, dip a little juice on the end to moisten, screw thru coil in direction of wraps like a screw into a nut. Voila! All set!
Mat I have experienced what you're talking about on many occasions. No you're reading right, lol. Not going nuts.
The good news is that unless the entire length of the media was exposed to moisture or excessive heating cutting a little bit away at a time generally leads you to a pristine section within an inch or so. Because usually it's moisture absorption through capillary action that causes this. And I suspect that's the cause too with overheating by torching which induces the media to breathe as it rapidly afterward cools. Any significant environmental moisture will be absorbed.
As Tim noted above then properly prepared Nextel does not fray. No further desiccation is required. It's already been kilned so practically all of the air has been evacuated from within the fiber channels. Further heating particularly in the hot (blue, 1800 deg. F) zone of a torch can damage the fibers themselves breaking them. Then you'll see a lot of particulates and yes, fraying. Now you may also mean splaying which is the de-winding of the weave. Over-dessication as well may be the reason moisture exposure has caused the tip of the media to swell loosening the weave. Then delamination of the weave may happen easily. You don't want to moisten Nextel with water but PG or preferably VG and in the process of vaping as the best way to cure this material. If you're going to moisten it at all do it with the juice you'll be vaping. However, typically it should not be necessary.
RxW slim for example can be a bit difficult to feed into 1/16". There may be slight variation in kilning and you get some splaying. Usually a narrow flat head screw driver may be used to tuck some of the splays into the coil (in the direction of rotation). Once a few get in there a little pressure as you rotate is usually adequate for the wick to proceed with the tucked ends just folding back on the wick as they proceed.
There is no other media available to vapers that behaves anything like this providing the necessary rigidity to conform to a proper coil. By this I mean one with the geometry and resistance value appropriate to its flow potential. Usually a slight deflection fit (a bit smaller than it's wet diameter). It is worth every moment spent trying to improve our methods of introduction of this media into such a coil.
Now if you despite all this can get it fed, you may find that it will eventually break in and perform. Most of the experiences I have had though with Nextel under-performing compared to cotton has been because of overheating or moisture exposure. If the kilning was done as specified and carefully as per 3M's recommendations ceramic just shines.
A sealed glass or aluminum container that's airtight is the best preservation solution as soon as you receive this media. Try not to handle it except after carefully washing and drying hands. Alcohol towelettes are excellent for this purpose as long as they're not perfumed. Just always remember that this material is extremely absorbent at the ends.
Good luck M.
Last edited:
Mat I have experienced what you're talking about on many occasions. No you're reading right, lol. Not going nuts.
The good news is that unless the entire length of the media was exposed to moisture or excessive heating cutting a little bit away at a time generally leads you to a pristine section within an inch or so. Because usually it's moisture absorption through capillary action that causes this. And I suspect that's the cause too with overheating by torching which induces the media to breathe as it rapidly afterward cools. Any significant environmental moisture will be absorbed.
As Tim noted above then properly prepared Nextel does not fray. No further desiccation is required. It's already been kilned so practically all of the air has been evacuated from within the fiber channels. Further heating particularly in the hot (blue, 1800 deg. F) zone of a torch can damage the fibers themselves breaking them. Then you'll see a lot of particulates and yes, fraying. Now you may also mean splaying which is the de-winding of the weave. Over-dessication as well may be the reason moisture exposure has caused the tip of the media to swell loosening the weave. Then delamination of the weave may happen easily. You don't want to moisten Nextel with water but PG or preferably VG and in the process of vaping as the best way to cure this material. If you're going to moisten it at all do it with the juice you'll be vaping. However, typically it should not be necessary.
RxW slim for example can be a bit difficult to feed into 1/16". There may be slight variation in kilning and you get some splaying. Usually a narrow flat head screw driver may be used to tuck some of the splays into the coil (in the direction of rotation). Once a few get in there a little pressure as you rotate is usually adequate for the wick to proceed with the tucked ends just folding back on the wick as they proceed.
There is no other media available to vapers that behaves anything like this providing the necessary rigidity to conform to a proper coil. By this I mean one with the geometry and resistance value appropriate to its flow potential. Usually a slight deflection fit (a bit smaller than it's wet diameter). It is worth every moment spent trying to improve our methods of introduction of this media into such a coil.
Now if you despite all this can get it fed, you may find that it will eventually break in and perform. Most of the experiences I have had though with Nextel under-performing compared to cotton has been because of overheating or moisture exposure. If the kilning was done as specified and carefully as per 3M's recommendations ceramic just shines.
A sealed glass or aluminum container that's airtight is the best preservation solution as soon as you receive this media. Try not to handle it except after carefully washing and drying hands. Alcohol towelettes are excellent for this purpose as long as they're not perfumed. Just always remember that this material is extremely absorbent at the ends.
Good luck M.
Thank you, Sir.
I have not had any problem feeding ReadyX into a !/16th coil using 2mm of course. The Beast gave great instruction, right down to wetting the point. Has worked like a charm.
mactechvpr - question. What is your opinion on the small difference between the coil being 1/16 vs.16 gauge leur needle? I use 2mm wick and the 16 gauge works well and have no problem threading thru but I was wondering if there is a perfomance difference. If so I will be more patient and thread thru a 1/16 coil if you think the smaller diameter would make better contact with the wick producing difference in flavor .
Your thoughts always appreciated!
Your thoughts always appreciated!
Rudy, good point…the needle saved me! LOL Really, watchin' video's by vapdivrr and others last Spring making tight near contact and contact coils inspired me to quit and get to it, perfecting them.
When I did, I developed an obvious preference for anything with a good hand hold. Because as you know I recommend straining coils into adhesion with tension as a means to improve their performance and efficiency.
So, no. Not a terribly big difference between a 16th and 16 needle gauge. I would say, that both may be useful for different juices, vg/pg ratios. Experimenting with tightening the wind for better vapor is what it's all about. And it's not impossible to use that needle in a pin vise (just secure the pointy end). So if you have a few sizes you're in good shape. Keep on using your existing wind. How's that?
First and foremose I promote the technique because I know it cures a host of sins (electrically speaking) like the propensity of shorts (loose turns, legs, etc.). The very things that wreck our vape.
So have at it. Modifying resistance (temperature) is what this game's about. Knowing wind diameters makes it easier to predict and duplicate tomorrow. Just like the dial on the stove.
Have fun and good luck!
I think it does make a difference because every other coil diameter I've tried besides 1/16 has gave me a nasty taste I think when the coil makes contact with the wick it's heating up the wick as well and that way the wick is vaporizing juice along with the coil for better flavor and more vapor I use ready x in my drippers lately and I found this to be the best setup for me I can fill up my juice well and it will vaporize all the juice in it super consistent no dry hits at all until the juice is gone 9 wrap micro coil 24guage on a 1/16th big but I angle the coils to help readyx wick better and I tuck the tails that are touching the deck kinda in between the post so they stay put it really works well
You needn't be concerned about changing coil diameters. It's the equivalent of the gauge on your cooktop.
I would be concerned that the taste is getting nasty if you do. That suggests that something in the wind is not electrically correct. And for some of the same reasons as my example. That has far more significance and importance than just bad taste.
I urge everyone to get a uniform electrical wind down. You can't really gauge the potential of your vape, or flavor, with any consistency without that.
(Especially using Nextel ceramic braid until you do. It won't scorch or burn when overheated because that just won't happen with typical or normal operation in a common atty due to its high thermal capacity.)
Good luck Mike.
Last edited:
Rudy, good point…the needle saved me! LOL Really, watchin' video's by vapdivrr and others last Spring making tight near contact and contact coils inspired me to quit and get to it, perfecting them.
When I did, I developed an obvious preference for anything with a good hand hold. Because as you know I recommend straining coils into adhesion with tension as a means to improve their performance and efficiency.
So, no. Not a terribly big difference between a 16th and 16 needle gauge. I would say, that both may be useful for different juices, vg/pg ratios. Experimenting with tightening the wind for better vapor is what it's all about. And it's not impossible to use that needle in a pin vise (just secure the pointy end). So if you have a few sizes you're in good shape. Keep on using your existing wind. How's that?
First and foremose I promote the technique because I know it cures a host of sins (electrically speaking) like the propensity of shorts (loose turns, legs, etc.). The very things that wreck our vape.
So have at it. Modifying resistance (temperature) is what this game's about. Knowing wind diameters makes it easier to predict and duplicate tomorrow. Just like the dial on the stove.
Have fun and good luck!
Thanks for the input Mac!
What I like about the 16g luer needle is I can hold the plastic end with my thumb & forefinger and wedge the wire right up against the lip of where the needle meets the plastic and secure it under my thumb serving as a "vice" allowing me to keep nice tension on the wraps. No "jig" needed!
I come out at the same ohm reading every time. Like you said a consistent matrix point is a must, then adjustments can be made from there based on juice, flavor, vape volume etc. to suit personal preference.
Thanks for the input Mac!
What I like about the 16g luer needle is I can hold the plastic end with my thumb & forefinger and wedge the wire right up against the lip of where the needle meets the plastic and secure it under my thumb serving as a "vice" allowing me to keep nice tension on the wraps. No "jig" needed!
Rudy I really dig ya man. And a lot of the great folks on this thread 'cause y'all have figured out I'm not talkin' at ya. I'm talkin' though ya to all the wallflowers in the bleachers. And it's them I'm tryin' to get up off of their seats. We need 'em. We need e'm all.
Thanks Rudy for just gettin' it.
Good luck.
p.s. I wind a lot of multi-wire builds. I use a pin vise to generate the leverage I need with these tired old hands of mine.
Last edited:
Its even better in a BC clearo with a coil that takes advantage of it, it's explosive.
Good luck.
Last edited:
Its even better in a BC clearo with a coil that takes advantage of it, it's explosive.
Good luck.
Its all good Mac, I took a stab at trying to rebuild a few of those about a year ago and lets just say "MAJOR FAILURE" would be putting it mildly... I do love it in my micro coils though.
Its even better in a BC clearo with a coil that takes advantage of it, it's explosive.
Good luck.
I just bought some 2mm. Gonna try rebuilding on my Protanks and Aerotank bases. Do you always put the extra pieces of readywick in the bases around where the coil is?
- Status
