READYxWICK for non cotton people

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HappiVappi

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7/64 ID for the bigger RW.
I attached a quick pic I just took from my phone showing the 3mm RW on my cylone.
I don't have the P2 with me.
If I take this cyclone and wash off the liquid and dry burn it, you can see very well the inside hole as it glows a bit.
It would be much harder to see on the P2 RW as the ends are longer (to reach the filler) and don't glow since they are further from the coil.
The paper clip slides in as shown in this pic very easily.
Hope that helps.
I have less success with the smaller RW (2mm)
Paul

Just a tad :closedeyes: out of focus, but I get the idea nonetheless. I have to give this a try.......

Thank you.

Cheers.
 

ukeman

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If any of you have seen an Achilles Ti it has an elevated air post - above deep drip wells. So the pos/neg posts (single coil) are about 3-4mm above the bridge between and above the drip wells, another 3mm... thats at least approx. 5mm above the juice source.

I do really well with Cellucotton rayon wicking; so far the best I've found for wicking...

take a look at some of the internal shots here and tell me RxW will do the trick better than Cellucotton rayon:
because I haven't tried it yet.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/atomizer-reviews/532213-titanium-achilles-dripper-review.html
 

Filthy-Beast

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If any of you have seen an Achilles Ti it has an elevated air post - above deep drip wells. So the pos/neg posts (single coil) are about 3-4mm above the bridge between and above the drip wells, another 3mm... thats at least approx. 5mm above the juice source.

I do really well with Cellucotton rayon wicking; so far the best I've found for wicking...

take a look at some of the internal shots here and tell me RxW will do the trick better than Cellucotton rayon:
because I haven't tried it yet.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/atomizer-reviews/532213-titanium-achilles-dripper-review.html

It's doing great in the Odin like this so should be the same for that one. This is 3mm Looks like you would want 2mm for that rba

IMAG2112_1-M.jpg
 

MacTechVpr

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It's doing great in the Odin like this so should be the same for that one. This is 3mm Looks like you would want 2mm for that RBA

IMAG2112_1-M.jpg

Yeah, it'll outshine CCR hands down in may opinion. You'll get a lot of poppin' out of that one fer sure. But looking at the physical attributes of your build, I'd love to explain to you in 5 mins how you can multiply the output. At least you'll understand my reasoning. I could write a short tome about it here today but I'm not up to it physically today FB. So I'll PM you my number. Maybe then between us we can come back and shine a lite on this. Nextel is a beautiful thing.

:D

CYA
 

ukeman

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Yeah, it'll outshine CCR hands down in may opinion. You'll get a lot of poppin' out of that one fer sure. But looking at the physical attributes of your build, I'd love to explain to you in 5 mins how you can multiply the output. At least you'll understand my reasoning. I could write a short tome about it here today but I'm not up to it physically today FB. So I'll PM you my number. Maybe then between us we can come back and shine a lite on this. Nextel is a beautiful thing.

:D

CYA

Because I've used RxW before but just diddling with it, I realize i don't want to try this without the criteria for optimal effect with RxW... does it have to do with the proper micro coil wrapping technique?
I'm looking for my pin vise to come in and I'll pick up a drill bit for 3mm... is it 7/64"?
 

MacTechVpr

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Because I've used RxW before but just diddling with it, I realize i don't want to try this without the criteria for optimal effect with RxW... does it have to do with the proper micro coil wrapping technique?
I'm looking for my pin vise to come in and I'll pick up a drill bit for 3mm... is it 7/64"?

No re FB I wanted to talk about flow and bounce some ideas off him. See what he thought. A 7/64th is a clean feed but loose. Not adequate deflection although the wick swells into it typically. A 3/32" has better deflection of the coil into it but can be slightly, I say a bit, fiddly. You may need a little help from a small instrument screwdriver to tuck in some stragglers as they splay. Sometimes not. Cut the tip on a 30-45 bias and you have a nice little needle point to work with. I wick up to four verticals (downward) with this diameter. But when you're done, you're done at least for a good month or two. So yea FB's wind likes look a bit too much wire for the wick but the wick orientation in a dripper is just as critical.

I'm trying to work out a quad for the Soldado at the moment with XC-132. Had one in there working fabulously at o.3Ω but was grazin' the wrong place with a lead. Skewed it adjusting. A nice little wicking experiment into 1.8mm that you don't wanna do twice. LOL But I do a lot of builds with multi-wire small diameters and enjoy the challenge. I have motor control issues and you know what they say…if you don't use it, you lose it.

Good luck uke.

:)
 
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ukeman

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No re FB I wanted to talk about flow and bounce some ideas off him. See what he thought. A 7/64th is a clean feed but loose. Not adequate deflection although the wick swells into it typically. A 3/32" has better deflection of the coil into it but can be slightly, I say a bit, fiddly. You may need a little help from a small instrument screwdriver to tuck in some stragglers as they splay. Sometimes not. Cut the tip on a 30-45 bias and you have a nice little needle point to work with. I wick up to four verticals (downward) with this diameter. But when you're done, you're done at least for a good month or two. So yea FB's wind likes look a bit too much wire for the wick but the wick orientation in a dripper is just as critical.

Good luck uke.

:)

ok so 3/32" bit and cut tip at angle, what about torching before use to firm up?
 

MacTechVpr

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ok so 3/32" bit and cut tip at angle, what about torching before use to firm up?

Negative with RxW, uke. It's been heated more than adequately to firm it up. That's what kilning does in the process of removing the sizing. Rather than kilning which could compromise the fiber in certain ways 3M, the manufacturer, introduces sizing precisely to give it rigidity and make this otherwise very flaccid material firm enough to handle. Kilning vaporizes the sizing and this very high temperature process tightens up the inter-fiber spaces making the material far more rigid. Enough for our purposes.

Exceed that, or heat this material too quickly and you compromise the geometry of the fibers. It will splay to no end.

Imagine a thatch of straw…now bunch it up in your hand tightly and tie it off. Voila, broom! Try to squeeze it together any more than tight and you can distort it. Well, that's exactly what torching and particularly over-torching in the hot blue zone of butane can do to Nextel…and wire too!!!

It's unfortunate that torching was seen as the means to create things for vaping and a little more thought was not put into the science. I came up with tension winding because it's "old school". Things we learned in basic science class I guess in a galaxy far, far away. Trust me, I love using my BernzOMatic, but burning vaping stuff is not one of them.

Now, once Nextel is cured and those inter-fiber spaces are well broken in, then!…you can torch the stuff to your heart's content to clean it, just as Jeremy of RBAS adequately demonstrated. It thoroughly vacates anything and everything from those inter-fiber spaces. But nothing for most circumstances that a cool rinse to hot soak wouldn't most likely accomplish (extrudes the cool contents). The less stress you subject this fiber to the better. Leave it for vaporization. It's stressful enough. What most challenges the longitivity of this otherwise indestructible material is handling. Protect the weave. That's what keeps those tight fibers tight. And being subjected to the repeated high pressure ultra-high temperature output of a blow torch would not really be a good way to do that.

Pls post the info. I will try a 3/32 coil tmrw. 7/64 is not tight but it has been working well for me.
Biggest issue with the 3mm rw is the unraveling when trying to get it through the coil and after using for a bit.
I am all ears here :)


359704d1406426179-protank-microcoil-discussion-img_0955a.jpg



Hey pt, you're dead on and Jeremy too. 7/64 is exactly right. But Nextel shines with just the right amount of deflection. I'm still experimenting with a variety of methods to get it there. For the moment I'm suggesting 3/32" because it's a pretty accessible dimension that most folks can get to…with drill blanks and screw drivers as mandrels. And it's quite achievable and effective, evident these pictures…


359705d1406426217-protank-microcoil-discussion-img_0959a.jpg



Take your own and show us!

Good luck.

:)

p.s. Why I advocate a tension wind is the uniformity you see above. A normal wind doesn't "pop" like this. That's an indication of inadequate flow. In the above it's breaking in. Once saturated it's just a smooth, dense and COOL flood of vapor BUT as warm or hot as the resistance you target. You'll just be able to dial it up more precisely.
 
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cigatron

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Awesome Mac but what I'm looking for is your tension technique for wrapping micro coils. Do you have a tutorial ?

Hey uke, welcome to the thread. Do a search on the cigatron coil winder. It's a DIY tool that most anyone can fabricate and addresses a couple of issues that folks have when winding coils with pin vises and coil gizmos.

One day I'll get around to creating the blog. I just need to find a pile of "round-to-its"!

:)cig
 

MacTechVpr

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Awesome Mac but what I'm looking for is your tension technique for wrapping micro coils. Do you have a tutorial ?

Hey uke, welcome to the thread. Do a search on the cigatron coil winder. It's a DIY tool that most anyone can fabricate and addresses a couple of issues that folks have when winding coils with pin vises and coil gizmos.

One day I'll get around to creating the blog. I just need to find a pile of "round-to-its"!

:)cig

By all means uke, I think cigatron might be on to something with a tension wound spaced coil. There is nothing perfect in this world and an ... for every seat. Well, except tension itself, lol.

Anyway here's a snapshot of the jig in action for your elucidation…


373448d1410614339-readyxwick-non-cotton-people-img_1072a.jpg



And here's the headline on the fire result right here…


373449d1410614435-readyxwick-non-cotton-people-img_1077a.jpg



Let us know how it works out fella's.

(Remember the internet is a visual medium. ;-) )

Good luck.

:)
 

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MacTechVpr

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Awesome Mac but what I'm looking for is your tension technique for wrapping micro coils. Do you have a tutorial ?

I wrote in a little more detail about wicking with Nextel where I live on the http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/clearomizers/486794-protank-microcoil-discussion-160.html. And the techniques described themselves lend themselves quite well to atomizers in use by the REO community. As a matter of fact it was the interest that remained among REO users that strongly urged me to scrutinize the potentials of this wicking material for consumer use.

So I recently posted this to shed more light on wicking XC ceramic...Keeping the fray at bay.

Do some keyword searches on this thread and you will glean enormous insights on rebuilding by the many posters that have participated, conquered the tension wind and moved on to a great vape.

Good luck uke.

:)


313893d1394460029-protank-cotton-rebuild-way-i-do-img_0535a.jpg
 

supertrunker

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Here's my opinion and it's just that.

I think spaced coils work better and i think they work much better on RxW. There is less chance of strangling the wick. When i first started making my own wicks and coils, the prevailing youtube videos of the time showed someone wrapping directly onto a wick. So my first attempts using RxW involved sliding a needle in the hollow centre and wrapping straight on it.
It kills it!

People use microcoils because they are easy and repeatable, and those are important attributes in rebuilding. But the coil you showed above - wrapped on a machine screw i suppose, gets more air, comes into contact with more juice and looks like a better bet to me.

So my latest bash with the RxW has had me rethinking a few things. I run 2 identical Atomic atties, both on bottom feeding mods. The first one i ran for a week with 32g dual parallel coils (no spacing) and it ran fine for about 4 days before the coils clogged. A dry burn would not fix it - my fault for using the juice i do. The other is what i consider my indestructible build - spaced dual coils of R41 wrapped on a 2mm screwdriver. This is the business.

In either case the wicks have held up fine and the child in me comes out when i blowtorch them back to virgin white.

The replacement coils on my first atty are now spaced 26g kanthal and both atties come in at about 0.3Ω. The RxW has no trouble wicking either, so when i hear comments such as "organic cotton wicks worse then KGD and CC is fastest", i'm really not sure whether to call BS or not. I suspect that since i only use bottom-fed devices, i use wick to hold juice rather than to wick it.

T
 

ukeman

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I get it. Its "tension".

I actually had a Darkzero aluminum block micro coil winder, but stopped using it because it was more fun (and faster) wrapping by hand (on a bit, nail, whatever)
Doh!

spaced or unspaced.

I usually torch the kanthal / nichrome prior to wrapping... another thread?
 
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