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romaneddb

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Well, after more pondering I think I should do this.

The Cruiser needs to have the wiring increased and a bigger spring installed. I think I need to get up to allowing 7 amps/28 watts of power at 4 volts. Currently the wiring might melt and the spring collapse if that kind of demand is made on it for a .5 ohm atty coil.

I guess I answered my own questions, heh.

Arrrr, have a great day all.

Hi Cappy ,

I thinks that this changes are a very good idea , it's me who send you a mail this morning for the problem with the 3A fuse which is actually too low for me

PS : sorry for my very bad english :(
 

Capt' Brian

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that sounds pretty safe to me ;)
are you also incorporating a fuse on top of that in Cruisers?

Hmm, if I do, it would not be 3 amp, more like a 8 amp fuse to keep the wiring or spring from smoking if there was a dead short at the atty.

Fuses are just pennies each, so getting more/different is no problem at all.
 

Capt' Brian

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Hi Cappy ,

I thinks that this changes are a very good idea , it's me who send you a mail this morning for the problem with the 3A fuse which is actually too low for me

PS : sorry for my very bad english :(

Yes, in retrospect, 3 amp is ok for normal use with a standard atty, but not nearly enough for todays e-cig user. Gotta move with the times.

I just realized though, that I will have to make the mods a bit taller in order to use the bigger spring. It will need to increase about .2" or the battery won't fit anymore.

Arrr

Edit: the current limitations to the Cruiser would probably be around 4 to 4.5 amps before it would nuke itself. I will have to increase that to at least 7 amps for future users.

I think I need to make a disclaimer on the website.....
 
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Capt' Brian

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Just call it Cruiser III :)

Ahh, but if the new one is taller with a bigger spring and a bit more expensive and someone wants the old style, it would be much easier if the new model had it's own name methinks?

I could even upgrade the wiring more and allow for 35 or so watts of power! I guess we could call it the Cruiser "Firestorm", ha ha!

Doesn't it totally scorch the juice? I dunno ...
 

aidreon

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Short answer for the fuse (holidays..network is terrible :(), I usually vape on some 0.8 ohms coils on a mech, that means 22W and about 5A+ on a fresh battery, that means that the 3A one wouldn't let me vape, 5A could be a tad short as well... I guess I would need something like a 7A fuse to be able to do whatever I like with my Cruiser.
Now if you can make it safer and include something that would allow 25W/6A, I guess everyone would be quite happy with it :)
 

Capt' Brian

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Short answer for the fuse (holidays..network is terrible :(), I usually vape on some 0.8 ohms coils on a mech, that means 22W and about 5A+ on a fresh battery, that means that the 3A one wouldn't let me vape, 5A could be a tad short as well... I guess I would need something like a 7A fuse to be able to do whatever I like with my Cruiser.
Now if you can make it safer and include something that would allow 25W/6A, I guess everyone would be quite happy with it :)

Yeah. After looking at the specs of the hardware more, I think I could do a mod that will handle 7 amps at about 38 watts and use a 8 amp fuse for protection. Should work out pretty good and I suppose even the hardcore sub-ohm people won't push it quite that hard.

No reason I should not be able to offer them next batch and I suppose, in retrospect, no reason to continue the old style if this is merely a upgrade to it.
 

chet

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cruiser "blunderbuss edition"

egads! Not blunderbuss again!

SdP4oYu.gif


:p
 

Waho

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Arrr, I am NOT going to name it blunderbuss, that's a silly name, and we don't do silly things on this thread.

This is a serious thread for serious pirates, buccaneers, scallywags, wench's, gut-grabbers, rum-chuggers, lads and lass's. Let's have no more of this blunderbuss talk. If me mum went around talkin' about blunderbuss's all the time, well .. you can imagine what would happen. Can you imagine the jokes?

My, that's quite the ... pair o' blunderbuss's you got tucked under yur shirt! or, either you like me, or ye gots a loaded blunderbuss in yer trousers!

Arrr, so no more blunderbuss talk says I .... blunderbuss indeed...pfffttt....

It is indeed a silly word. Sounds like a word for mass transit vehicle driven by a directionally challenged person.

"Man walks into a bar, sits down and pulls out his blunderbuss...."

Arrrr

Every time I utter the word blunderbuss it takes me waaaay back. I believe me and Rt were threatened with physical violence at that time for saying blunderbuss! :blink:
 
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Capt' Brian

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Ahhh, finally done for the night. All the caddies are made, sanded and have finish on them. I may get them shipped out on the afternoon tide tomorrow and then I can get back to the batch again.

Looks like next batch may have some model changes.

The Cutlass DNA20 MAY be ready by then, depending on how the prototype turns out, but so far it looks good.

It also looks like the next version of the Cruiser should be a go, it just need minor design changes. Unfortunately the boxes I've already cut for Cruisers will now be too short to allow the bigger spring. I hope there isn't alot of them.....

Anything else I should be looking into? Oh right! I need to figure out how to convert the Destroyer into a DNA20 model ... that's not gonna be easy.

Have a nice night all. Arrr
 

fright88

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May 21, 2011
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Well, after more pondering I think I should do this.

The Cruiser needs to have the wiring increased and a bigger spring installed. I think I need to get up to allowing 7 amps/28 watts of power at 4 volts. Currently the wiring might melt and the spring collapse if that kind of demand is made on it for a .5 ohm atty coil.

The pushbutton switches I use are rated at 96 watts of power as I recall and should pose no problem.

The current limitations to the DNA12 and DNA20 are already incorporated into the designs and should pose no problems, especially as the boards will not operate with under 1 ohms at the output. I just have to design for a 6 amp output max for the DNA20, which means beefier wires and a larger spring. The current small spring will easily melt down if the watts are pushed towards the maximum for the DNA20.

I guess I answered my own questions, heh.

Arrrr, have a great day all.

Just a quick note. Many testers have and do use DNA 20 mods with sub 1 ohm coils. Pbusardo tested a Opus D with a .8 ohm RSST and other Opus Reviews do the same. Also the Elevator (telescoping DNA 20D tube) and the Cyborg have both been reviewed using sub 1 ohm coils. Not sure if that would matter with the materials you are looking at but something to think about.
 
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