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Random question that may end up in another thread. I just recently purchased an RSM Misty #204.(loving it by the way!) I just purchased a volt meter to check out the voltage settings on my vv it works great. However, when I attach it to my RSM, it doesn't produce a reading. I get a good vape so I know that it is putting out voltage. Am I missing something here?
 

Landlord

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Random question that may end up in another thread. I just recently purchased an RSM Misty #204.(loving it by the way!) I just purchased a volt meter to check out the voltage settings on my vv it works great. However, when I attach it to my RSM, it doesn't produce a reading. I get a good vape so I know that it is putting out voltage. Am I missing something here?

its prolly not making contact.. if there is a catch cup it be stoping the connector from going all the way down.. do you have a 510 extension/ 510 to 510 adapter?
 
its prolly not making contact.. if there is a catch cup it be stoping the connector from going all the way down.. do you have a 510 extension/ 510 to 510 adapter?

I'll have to double check, but the carto still fires on the other end of the volt meter. Could I still have a connection issue and the carto still fire a healthy vape?
 

Landlord

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I'll have to double check, but the carto still fires on the other end of the volt meter. Could I still have a connection issue and the carto still fire a healthy vape?

Wow thats weird.. did you check the volt meter on a different device to make sure its working correctly?
 
I know a volt meter cant read some regulators, i think the pulse type ones.. im perty sure cappy uses switching regulators.. i do remember him saying he used to use something different, but he also had a volt meter hooked up to those.. hmmmmm

It works on my vv box mod, which is what I originally bought it for, but you may be onto something with the regulator route. Hopefully, Cappy will see this and offer some insight.
 

Capt' Brian

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It works on my vv box mod, which is what I originally bought it for, but you may be onto something with the regulator route. Hopefully, Cappy will see this and offer some insight.

If you now have #204, the Misty model, then it is a 5 volt model. Checking the voltage will just show 5 volts anyway.

It used a 5v linear regulator from Madvapes and was Black Cherry with Black Walnut ends and a Rosewood inlay. Built 3/10/2011

Edit: Btw, the misty models were wired with atty connector center negative, so a screw in volt meter would not work.
 
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If you now have #204, the Misty model, then it is a 5 volt model. Checking the voltage will just show 5 volts anyway.

It used a 5v linear regulator from Madvapes and was Black Cherry with Black Walnut ends and a Rosewood inlay. Built 3/10/2011

Edit: Btw, the misty models were wired with atty connector center negative, so a screw in volt meter would not work.

That's the one :p and the edit you made answers the question as to why my meter won't work.
I've always been the "I know that the outcome is correct(5v) but why doesn't this thing work" kind of guy.:confused: So, thanks for your help.

Next question: What is the benefit or reasoning behind wiring the center negative? Again, my constantly thinking mind is acting up again.....

BTW, I love your work!!!
 

Capt' Brian

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Ahoy, good morning everyone. You know, I worked almost the entire day yesterday 'till the Commodore informed me that the reason there was no mail was Veterans day. Bummer ....


That's the one :p and the edit you made answers the question as to why my meter won't work.
I've always been the "I know that the outcome is correct(5v) but why doesn't this thing work" kind of guy.:confused: So, thanks for your help.

Next question: What is the benefit or reasoning behind wiring the center negative? Again, my constantly thinking mind is acting up again.....

BTW, I love your work!!!

If you look inside the unit, you will see that the negative tab spring keeps the battery up and away from the atomizer connector and wiring, so it was just a way to keep from damaging the unit or the battery. I went back to traditional wiring not long after making the Buccaneer models so people could use a screw on meter.
 

Capt' Brian

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Ok. I've answered all PM's and E-mails and am working on me second cup of coffee, almost time to go to work!

Perhaps I should take a moment to explain the reasoning behind the changes?

The models I have made in the past were all but two things, they were not build friendly or repair friendly and if I keep making them that way the price is going to jump up significantly and soon too!

As I am not yet ready to start charging $200+ for the base price something had to change.

Over the months of building these mods I have kept notes of suggestions, complaints and my own thoughts on what should be changed.

The mod should be easier to hold, some people have actually sold theirs because they were afraid of dropping it and there have been ALOT of drop repairs I have had to take the time to do on the Cutlass mods. When I get the last of the repairs in the mail today I am going to have to blow a full production day doing nothing but repairs.

There is a tried and true reason most hand held items conform to a certain size limit, e.g. flashlights, baseball bats, etc, etc, comfortable in the hand and able to firmly grip them. I want that in a mod and so apparently do many other people.

Build friendly layout. No more hollowed out end caps with components glued inside making it impossible to repair. In the long run this will make repairs cheaper for you and faster for me.

Arthritis. Yes even this is a consideration and I have had it for many years and it has begun seriously affecting my hands. It is painful and difficult to hand route hour after hour, to sand and chisel wood. I would like to make the machines do the stressful work for me and that will allow me to just do the fine detail and finish work. This will extend the lifespan of Redskymods for hopefully a much longer time than if I have to keep doing things manually, who likes to be in pain all the time?

More wood availability. The smaller the piece of wood you want, the more options are available and seeing how all models are now 2" x 1" it also opens up the " 2x2 Turning Stock" class of wood which is a major bonus.

The 1.5" side access panel width allows me to use any "Knife Scale" blanks as both end caps and side panels. Take a look at both "Turning Stock" and "Knife Scale" under the 'Lumber' category on e-bay and you will see that wood options have suddenly grown alot! Arrr!

If the only Variable I have from model to model is the height then I can allow people to order any model during pre-orders and not have to change machine setups which is a VERY good thing :)

Hardware choices. Things change over time and the current trend is what I try to answer, why make a mod few people want. The current trend seems to be a move away from the 14500 battery, the limitations of the simple 3.7v mod, but a smaller big battery mod. Tanks are also the current rage so that also needs to be addressed.

Price. I have gone months without changing the base price of the mods. Converting to these designs means I can go for a while yet without raising prices and still have enough profit to keep going. A win for everyone.

Please believe that I do want input from you and your thoughts about the mods, but also consider that I have spent hundreds of hours with CAD programs, writing CNC programs, creating prototypes, test fitting components, altering designs and repeating the process again and again trying to fit as much as I can in as small of a space as possible while still allowing me access and room to solder and run wires. On top of all that it has to be pleasing to the eye.

So many factors go into the design as I am sure you can see and I'm sure I have left some out as well.

Lets bump this post on occasion when a question about 'why' can be answered by it and I can keep working, lol


Yo ho! :laugh:

Edit: Oh yes, I almost forgot. One of the major benifits to converting all the models to CAD designs and CNC programs is when there are new hardware choices available I can adapt them into current models, quickly and precisely and so keep updating the designs without loss of time. (Like the current 2-3 week R&D downtime we are suffering through).
 
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