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Brewzz

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Mar 10, 2011
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I'm currently using two pair of Ultrafire 1200mAH protected batteries in my VV RSM. I noticed that they are a bit of a tight fit, but once seated, there is still some space between the spring coils, not a lot, but it's there.
The first set, both metered at 4.2V when I put them in, lasted about 22-24 hours with the voltage set at 4.5, they both metered at 3.45V when I took them out. I'm vaping on the second set now, also metered at 4.22V each.

So I've been reading about folks preferring the AW IMR batteries, which are apparently slightly shorter, due to the lack of a protection circuit. I understand that they are “safer” chemistry, so a PC isn’t considered to be necessary, but I do have a couple of questions/concerns:

They are listed as 700mAH, would this mean more frequent changes? If so, does the performance increase justify keeping three or four pairs in rotation?
I've currently got just the two pair in rotation, with plans to buy a few more pair to keep in reseve, but if the IMRs have a much shorter run time, I could see needing at least three pair in active rotation.

My only previous experience is with a 3.7V FoxyBox, using a single 14500 protected battery. I rarely hit the battery’s PC limit, because I would swap it out when the vapor started dropping off. I’ve read that regulated and VV circuits cut off when the batteries can no longer supply enough voltage, which only seems logical. Now the question arises; without a PC to cut them out before they are over-discharged, and a regulator that prevents a noticeable drop off in performance when they’re getting low, how do you know when to change your batteries without over-discharging them?
 

Capt' Brian

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ECF Veteran
Ahoy, good morning me 'earties, hope ye have a lazy day today and enjoy yer Sunday, arrr

I'm currently using two pair of Ultrafire 1200mAH protected batteries in my VV RSM. I noticed that they are a bit of a tight fit, but once seated, there is still some space between the spring coils, not a lot, but it's there.
The first set, both metered at 4.2V when I put them in, lasted about 22-24 hours with the voltage set at 4.5, they both metered at 3.45V when I took them out. I'm vaping on the second set now, also metered at 4.22V each.

So I've been reading about folks preferring the AW IMR batteries, which are apparently slightly shorter, due to the lack of a protection circuit. I understand that they are “safer” chemistry, so a PC isn’t considered to be necessary, but I do have a couple of questions/concerns:

They are listed as 700mAH, would this mean more frequent changes? If so, does the performance increase justify keeping three or four pairs in rotation?
I've currently got just the two pair in rotation, with plans to buy a few more pair to keep in reseve, but if the IMRs have a much shorter run time, I could see needing at least three pair in active rotation.

My only previous experience is with a 3.7V FoxyBox, using a single 14500 protected battery. I rarely hit the battery’s PC limit, because I would swap it out when the vapor started dropping off. I’ve read that regulated and VV circuits cut off when the batteries can no longer supply enough voltage, which only seems logical. Now the question arises; without a PC to cut them out before they are over-discharged, and a regulator that prevents a noticeable drop off in performance when they’re getting low, how do you know when to change your batteries without over-discharging them?

These are awesome questions of which I do not have an answer and the main reason I do not use them. I need a vape and forget system when working and the protected batteries simply stop working when they get too low.

Perhaps someone who uses the AW IMR batteries can explain the method of using them?

I may not have mentioned it before, but I make the battery compartment big enough to hold the longest batteries I can find, albeit a bit tightly and also the shortest I have measurements for but might need a magnet spacer.

The reason the spring is on the top is logically if there is a short that melts the spring the contact will be broken quickly, if the spring is on the bottom and is a tight fit then the battery could sink down with the melting spring and still make contact.
 

skydragon

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Oct 7, 2009
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Ahoy, good morning me 'earties, hope ye have a lazy day today and enjoy yer Sunday, arrr



These are awesome questions of which I do not have an answer and the main reason I do not use them. I need a vape and forget system when working and the protected batteries simply stop working when they get too low.

Perhaps someone who uses the AW IMR batteries can explain the method of using them?

I may not have mentioned it before, but I make the battery compartment big enough to hold the longest batteries I can find, albeit a bit tightly and also the shortest I have measurements for but might need a magnet spacer.

The reason the spring is on the top is logically if there is a short that melts the spring the contact will be broken quickly, if the spring is on the bottom and is a tight fit then the battery could sink down with the melting spring and still make contact.


Smart.........................=)
 

Capt' Brian

Unregistered Supplier
ECF Veteran
Smart.........................=)

I think so, on the other hand I might be totally full of s**t, but the spring on top also makes it easier to remove batteries without hitting the atty wiring and shell.

Remember, if you live below the Equator the batteries are right side up. Things were so much easier when I was a little boy and we still thought the world was flat ....
 

Brewzz

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Mar 10, 2011
823
704
SEVa
Ahoy, good morning me 'earties, hope ye have a lazy day today and enjoy yer Sunday, arrr



These are awesome questions of which I do not have an answer and the main reason I do not use them. I need a vape and forget system when working and the protected batteries simply stop working when they get too low.

Perhaps someone who uses the AW IMR batteries can explain the method of using them?

I may not have mentioned it before, but I make the battery compartment big enough to hold the longest batteries I can find, albeit a bit tightly and also the shortest I have measurements for but might need a magnet spacer.

The reason the spring is on the top is logically if there is a short that melts the spring the contact will be broken quickly, if the spring is on the bottom and is a tight fit then the battery could sink down with the melting spring and still make contact.

G'morning Cap'n!
The batteries I'm using are the ones from Madvapes that you suggested to someone a while back. I’m actually just fine with these, but I am a bit curious about the AW IMR batteries, after having read about how much some people seem to like them.
 

Derek365

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Apr 1, 2011
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i use the AW IMR batteries but also have the madvapes kind, which are a mighty tight fit. The AW ones have quite a bit of space but will fit with out spacers and stay in. I have heard conflicting info about letting the AW IMR'S drain all the way down. I let them drain till the voltage gets to low for HV vaping and then charge them up again. Both batts work well and seem to last most of the day. I have herd definitively that the AW's are safer than the Protected batts.
 

Ruppy

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Dec 1, 2010
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I am by no means a expert but this is how i understand this. essentially where your batteries will cutout depends on the set voltage. 1/2 of the pot voltage is the batt voltage when run in series. If you have your pot set to 3 volts, you will overdischarge a IMR. At 4 volts your right at the line. However overdischarging a IMR is not going to make it explode. Your just making its life shorter. This could be prevented with the addition of a zener diode. Bestedh posted the specifics of adding the diode over in modders forum.

Your right on the money about the spring Brian. There is also some short protection built into the chip brian.
 

Brewzz

Super Member
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Mar 10, 2011
823
704
SEVa
i use the AW IMR batteries but also have the madvapes kind, which are a mighty tight fit. The AW ones have quite a bit of space but will fit with out spacers and stay in. I have heard conflicting info about letting the AW IMR'S drain all the way down. I let them drain till the voltage gets to low for HV vaping and then charge them up again. Both batts work well and seem to last most of the day. I have herd definitively that the AW's are safer than the Protected batts.

So you're getting about the same run time out of the 700mAH IMRs as out of the 1200mAH Ultrafires? Seem kind of strange, but I have read about the mAH ratings being pretty inconsistent. I've also read that the IMRs are a safer choice, especially when running them in series, but that as long as the PC doesn't fail, it shouldn't be an issue. Regardless, if the IMRs are lasting just as long between charges as the protected, I'll probably go to them, as well.

I am by no means a expert but this is how i understand this. essentially where your batteries will cutout depends on the set voltage. 1/2 of the pot voltage is the batt voltage when run in series. If you have your pot set to 3 volts, you will overdischarge a IMR. At 4 volts your right at the line. However overdischarging a IMR is not going to make it explode. Your just making its life shorter. This could be prevented with the addition of a zener diode. Bestedh posted the specifics of adding the diode over in modders forum.

Your right on the money about the spring Brian. There is also some short protection built into the chip brian.

Thanks for the info on the set voltage in relation to the discharge level. I wasn't quite so sure how that worked, but thought it might be something like that. According to Lighthound, that max recommended discharge for the IMRs is 2.5V, so that would be a minimum of 5V, if you were to rely on the cutoff to tell you when to change batteries. Like I told Derek, if the run time on the IMRs isn't much different from the protected batts, I'll probably switch over to them, and just swap out on a schedule, to reduce the chance of dropping them too low.

Thanks for the help, Mateys!
 

Capt' Brian

Unregistered Supplier
ECF Veteran
where is everyone?

Off enjoying the weekend I hope, just hope everyone has time to enter a quick picture for the contest, not as many entered so far as I had assumed, but thats good for the ones who have entered I suppose, lol
 

Drottwiler

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Oct 20, 2010
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So you're getting about the same run time out of the 700mAH IMRs as out of the 1200mAH Ultrafires? Seem kind of strange, but I have read about the mAH ratings being pretty inconsistent. I've also read that the IMRs are a safer choice, especially when running them in series, but that as long as the PC doesn't fail, it shouldn't be an issue. Regardless, if the IMRs are lasting just as long between charges as the protected, I'll probably go to them, as well.



Thanks for the info on the set voltage in relation to the discharge level. I wasn't quite so sure how that worked, but thought it might be something like that. According to Lighthound, that max recommended discharge for the IMRs is 2.5V, so that would be a minimum of 5V, if you were to rely on the cutoff to tell you when to change batteries. Like I told Derek, if the run time on the IMRs isn't much different from the protected batts, I'll probably switch over to them, and just swap out on a schedule, to reduce the chance of dropping them too low.

Thanks for the help, Mateys!

I know nothing... about batterys but I need 3 pr of the aw ims to get through the day.I'm a chain vaper.lol Thats set at 495-5vt.
 

Derek365

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Apr 1, 2011
337
227
Connecticut
So you're getting about the same run time out of the 700mAH IMRs as out of the 1200mAH Ultrafires? Seem kind of strange, but I have read about the mAH ratings being pretty inconsistent. I've also read that the IMRs are a safer choice, especially when running them in series, but that as long as the PC doesn't fail, it shouldn't be an issue. Regardless, if the IMRs are lasting just as long between charges as the protected, I'll probably go to them, as well.



Thanks for the info on the set voltage in relation to the discharge level. I wasn't quite so sure how that worked, but thought it might be something like that. According to Lighthound, that max recommended discharge for the IMRs is 2.5V, so that would be a minimum of 5V, if you were to rely on the cutoff to tell you when to change batteries. Like I told Derek, if the run time on the IMRs isn't much different from the protected batts, I'll probably switch over to them, and just swap out on a schedule, to reduce the chance of dropping them too low.

Thanks for the help, Mateys!

I bought two pairs of the madvapes batteries and one out of one of the pairs was doa.. I am now using the IMRS with the two magnet spacers given by brain with the mode. I like both batteries but i take it as a bad sign that i got one doa. I tend to notice when the voltage goes down on the IMRS due to the fact i am using HV attys, you can tell that the vapor production is slipping and the batteries are on the way out, so i usually catch this when they go below 5 volts which from what i read here today is about when you want to take them out. Plus my new RSM has a voltage readout which makes it 100% easier to know when to take out the batteries
 

PoliticallyIncorrect

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...not as many entered so far as I had assumed, but thats good for the ones who have entered I suppose, lol

What's wrong with 16 pages and 156 posts?

I've been watching cottage-industry developments in the vaping world for a year, and I've not seen anything as fast-rising, quickly-exploding as Red Sky Mods
 
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