whats the ordering process for a redsky? i checked the site, and i come here and theres almost 1000k pages, ill be looking to get one around christmas, so no rush in anything, just want to know before i go into it!
Red Sky Mods
- Thread starter Capt' Brian
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if you're looking around Christmas, Get on the list now. He is starting batch 7 now. Batch 8 is full (i think). And Batch 9 may have a couple spots left. The other option is to hope for a general sale one to become available.
PM Capt Brian and I believe he is taking reservations for batch 9 right now. He is currently about to start on batch 7 which should take about 2 to 3 weeks so that gives you an idea of the wait time. So, yeah, get on the list now!
And some basic info for you -
originally quoted by Capt' Brian
Ahoy all, say, I've been getting alot of PM's & E-Mails asking for the same information.
My website is Redskymods.com. If I have any completed mods that have not been snapped up on this thread prior to finishing I will post them there for sale. Friends of the thread get first pick as a reward for frequenting the RSM thread and keeping things lively here
I post pictures of the current batch under construction here and anytime during that process people may 'Pick' one to call their own and decide when I post a picture of the completed mod if they still want it. I will then send an Invoice.
Some of the mods I am building are preorders. I will post a picture of main body wood and end cap woods I have available and the cost of them and you may select from those. There will also be choices for switch types and catch cup types. After you pick, PM me what you desire and we will discuss it and clear up any questions. Then your custom mod will be built during the next batch. Typical construction time is currently about 2 weeks once I get started depending on the size of the batch.
I am currently building the Mark-5.1 Cutlass as that is where the demand is. No use building a mod that just collects dust on my shelf, like most self employed mod makers I sail a fine course between success and disaster.
The Mark-5.1 Cutlass is described fully on the main page of the website. The website contains alot of information about the models I build and also features some video demonstrations and a gallery of past PV's sold to good homes.
The newest Cutlass has a base price of $179 with an added cost if I use an unusually expensive/rare wood.
Excerpt from the website;
Featuring dual operating modes. Direct battery mode to run unit at 3.7V using 18650 battery types and two battery combinations for 5V, 6V, 7.4V and variable volt mode using dual 18350 type batteries.
Standard features;
3 amp switching regulator
200 thousand cycle Stainless Steel switch
Large stainless steel catch cup
Sealed 6 ml feed system
Native 510 atomizer connector
Digital Voltage display
On/Off switch
Dual mode switch (Direct & variable voltage)
Voltage adjustment tool (mounted to inner door)
If you desire a VV mod without all the electronics (Dual mode/Switches/Voltage Display) to save money, It will run you $139.
As for juice feeding, all the Cutlass mods can be either Upright or Tilt & shoot. The only difference is if it has the 2" flex tube inside the feed bottle, with the tube is upright, without the tube it is T&S.
I have designed the Cutlass to use any make of two 18350 or single 18650 batteries that I know of and provide magnet spacers if your battery is significantly shorter and needs them.
All mods have a 7 day money back, 3 month warranty on parts and labor. If I can't fix it I will also either refund your money or build you a new one to replace it for warranty problems.
Hope that answered most general questions!
originally quoted by Capt' Brian
Ahoy all, say, I've been getting alot of PM's & E-Mails asking for the same information.
My website is Redskymods.com. If I have any completed mods that have not been snapped up on this thread prior to finishing I will post them there for sale. Friends of the thread get first pick as a reward for frequenting the RSM thread and keeping things lively here
I post pictures of the current batch under construction here and anytime during that process people may 'Pick' one to call their own and decide when I post a picture of the completed mod if they still want it. I will then send an Invoice.
Some of the mods I am building are preorders. I will post a picture of main body wood and end cap woods I have available and the cost of them and you may select from those. There will also be choices for switch types and catch cup types. After you pick, PM me what you desire and we will discuss it and clear up any questions. Then your custom mod will be built during the next batch. Typical construction time is currently about 2 weeks once I get started depending on the size of the batch.
I am currently building the Mark-5.1 Cutlass as that is where the demand is. No use building a mod that just collects dust on my shelf, like most self employed mod makers I sail a fine course between success and disaster.
The Mark-5.1 Cutlass is described fully on the main page of the website. The website contains alot of information about the models I build and also features some video demonstrations and a gallery of past PV's sold to good homes.
The newest Cutlass has a base price of $179 with an added cost if I use an unusually expensive/rare wood.
Excerpt from the website;
Featuring dual operating modes. Direct battery mode to run unit at 3.7V using 18650 battery types and two battery combinations for 5V, 6V, 7.4V and variable volt mode using dual 18350 type batteries.
Standard features;
3 amp switching regulator
200 thousand cycle Stainless Steel switch
Large stainless steel catch cup
Sealed 6 ml feed system
Native 510 atomizer connector
Digital Voltage display
On/Off switch
Dual mode switch (Direct & variable voltage)
Voltage adjustment tool (mounted to inner door)
If you desire a VV mod without all the electronics (Dual mode/Switches/Voltage Display) to save money, It will run you $139.
As for juice feeding, all the Cutlass mods can be either Upright or Tilt & shoot. The only difference is if it has the 2" flex tube inside the feed bottle, with the tube is upright, without the tube it is T&S.
I have designed the Cutlass to use any make of two 18350 or single 18650 batteries that I know of and provide magnet spacers if your battery is significantly shorter and needs them.
All mods have a 7 day money back, 3 month warranty on parts and labor. If I can't fix it I will also either refund your money or build you a new one to replace it for warranty problems.
Hope that answered most general questions!
ahhh is the the 1st post that there is? there was pictures of old ones, i figured this would be later and didnt bother looking, lol silly me shouldnt have overlooked the obvious... i sent him a pm, so he will prolly le tme know what is goign on as well, thanks for the info
No, no - that's not the very first post. It was buried in the hundreds of pages! Nobody can be expected to find all of the information in all of these pages!
got mine today and it won't fire 
i followed the troubleshooting steps to no avail..any one have suggestions? the voltage LED's on the bottom light when button is pushed without atty screwed in. with it screwed in nothing. i tried multiple atties, all the same result.
i followed the troubleshooting steps to no avail..any one have suggestions? the voltage LED's on the bottom light when button is pushed without atty screwed in. with it screwed in nothing. i tried multiple atties, all the same result.
The LED lights up without an atty? If so, what is the number?
I had this happen with a different mod (not my RSM) recently when I first got it - the atty wasn't connecting properly - so I just pulled the middle pin in the catch cup up a little bit and it worked fine after that. I actually used the screwdriver from the RSM to pry the pin up a tiny bit.
I had this happen with a different mod (not my RSM) recently when I first got it - the atty wasn't connecting properly - so I just pulled the middle pin in the catch cup up a little bit and it worked fine after that. I actually used the screwdriver from the RSM to pry the pin up a tiny bit.
I just read over the troubleshooting... sounds like it might be #2... if it is, I don't know what the fix is though I'm sure there is one!
If your RSM suddenly fails to fire, things to check.
1. Did you recently adjust the voltage? The voltage display needs a minimum of 2.7v to light. Turn CW to increase the voltage.
2. Does the display work without an atomizer connected? The atomizer may be shorting out the regulator.
3. Are the batteries tight? You may need 1 or 2 magnet spacers. Place them on the positive (raised) end.
4. Is the battery tab clean? I have received several 'dead' mods where either wax, dried juice or other contaminations have caused it to fail. I simply scrape them clean and send them back.
5. Are the switches making good contact? Try switching them back and forth with the 'Fire' button pressed.
If your RSM suddenly fails to fire, things to check.
1. Did you recently adjust the voltage? The voltage display needs a minimum of 2.7v to light. Turn CW to increase the voltage.
2. Does the display work without an atomizer connected? The atomizer may be shorting out the regulator.
3. Are the batteries tight? You may need 1 or 2 magnet spacers. Place them on the positive (raised) end.
4. Is the battery tab clean? I have received several 'dead' mods where either wax, dried juice or other contaminations have caused it to fail. I simply scrape them clean and send them back.
5. Are the switches making good contact? Try switching them back and forth with the 'Fire' button pressed.
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You may be over tightening the atty... try just tightening the atty to where it just touches the center pin of the connector
Maybe the connector got a lil wax on it.. Try cleaning out the connector with some alcohol...
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