Not with these. The spring will collapse instead. I know, it happened to me last night. Unfortunately I don't have any experience with these type of devices. So, if my atty isn't shorting, what else would cause this?
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I'm being facetious
. Flat top batteries in Reos are perfectly safe. I would much rather use a Sony vtc4 than an AW with a misrepresented CDR any day.Yes, in the event of a short, the spring will collapse and if any gasses are emitted from the battery, they will go out the squonk hole. Its quite possibly the safest mech on the market.
I did collapse my spring. Was using a sony vtc4. The atty isn't shorting, it reads at .5 on my ohm meter, and functions fine on my ipv. What else could cause this? Or should I have built higher? Thinking I read on here that.5 was ok on these.
The resistance being too low could cause it to collapse.I don't know what too low is on those springs though,i ran mine at a .4 for a few weeks before mine collapsed,but mine happened because of a short with an atty.
I'm thinking one of two things:
A short with the atty itself. And a drip tip can cause it if you have big coils/coils up high and the bottom of your drip tip touches it/them.
Or, if this happened on the clone, the threaded adjustable 510 pin got screwed in too far. That can happen screwing on your atty because they didn't make it reverse threaded. Need to be careful with that 510.
I've been using flat tops in Reos for 13 months. There isn't any reason I can see for why it would be an issue provided your battery has that washer on the positive end and the wrapper isn't torn anywhere.
Another thing to watch for on the atty,which is what caused mine,check the positive screw that comes out of the 510 pin on the atty.On the atty that caused my short,the screw was not sticking out past the threads,so the threads which are ground,made contact with the positive post on the mod.
I always thought AWs were trustworthy. Which batteries of theirs are misrepresented?
Mooch found the 20A were barely 15A. So now I'm thinking they all might be
He hasn't tested others yet. I may buy and donate an "18A" 18490 because I want to know. If you have any to donate to him, it would be a help for all of us.Since I got the Reo clone, I have been running a .45 ohm build with a Samsung 25R flat top. It has been stone cold reliable. I'm extremely satisfied with it's performance. Even after several long pulls, the spring and contact strip just barely get warm.
Thanks for the help/ideas. Is reosmods the only place to order new springs from? Was loving the squonking! The chalice clone worked well. It was the cloud atty that blew it. Not blaming the cloud atty, just putting facts in order.
Thanks for sharing the ideas. Meanwhile, I got my Hobo V3 with bf center pin. I am wondering whether they work together ? Does it requires some kind of adaptor ? There seems to be a well that would prevent a standard 22mm size RDA to seat.
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The Hobo will not work with this Reo clone, nor any 22mm atomizer. Your cheapest option for a BF atty that will fit is the Chalice clone. Another readily available option is something like the RM2 (NOT the low profile version) that can be found on Reosmods.com.
What alot of us have done is to use a file,grinder,or sander to remove some of that well and make it short enough for a standard 22mm rda to fit.You have to take quite a bit off,but the effort is defiitely worth it.I like my little 14mm atty's,but the 22mm are so much better.
That's good to know.I always use samsung 25r's and have never had any aw's,but now i know i won't be getting any anyway haha.Mooch found the 20A were barely 15A. So now I'm thinking they all might be
I LPed mine using a hacksaw and miter box. The non afc Cyclone fits, too.
Thinking of getting a second clone just for my Cyclone, and leaving it a normal grand. My other Reos can have my Nuppin and bf Vertex.
Thinking of getting a second clone just for my Cyclone, and leaving it a normal grand. My other Reos can have my Nuppin and bf Vertex.
I have two 18500 mods. One is a ZNA and only 30W so no biggie on the AW 18490s. The other is a Poldiac mech though. And if those batteries aren't 18A (and undoubtedly they aren't), I'm pushing things closer than I'm comfortable with.
Here are images of before and after machining down the catch cup: Exactly 3 millimeters {.118"} was removed. This can be done in many different ways; I used a vertical mill.
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I never even thought about using a hacksaw,that would of been quite a bit faster than mine took.I used a grinding/cutoff wheel on my dremel to take it down close,then a hand file to finish it off.Took maybe 25-30 minutes to do this way,but looking at it today i realized i got it just a bit crooked,as it has a very slight lean to the atty haha.No big deal,i need to repaint it anyway,so i will file it a bit more before i repaint,but the hacksaw would have made a better flat surface.
I'm thinking the same too about getting a 2nd one and leaving it alone.I have a little 14mm dual coil atty that came with my Kui,a 14mm squid,and a 14mm cyclone that just don't look right on it after the lp conversion,so another dedicated to them is in the near future.I noticed the price has came down on them since i got my first one too,so that makes it even easier haha.
I knew if I tried to dremel it, I would be crooked, lol! It only took me about 3 minutes and I'm a woman, and have arthritis. So you could hacksaw it easier than me
Haha,yeah sad thing is,i had to move the hacksaw out of the way on my table to set everything else down there haha.I knew i would be crooked with the dremel,,so i left a bit extra to file it down and get it straight,yeah that worked great haha.If i ever do another one,i'll have to remember the hacksaw.
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