Repairable CE2

[Cyrus Vap]

I think its my fault sir, because I'm so bad at soldering (though your tip helped me quite a bit, I'm just still not precise with it)
I've been on the hunt for wires I can stick in there and leave bare, and create contacts with tucking and heat shrink around the post for that contact

So copper is out of the question for me (bare I mean). If its shielded, than I guess its fine so long as the stripped portion is covered by solder. But my heat shrink and tuck trick doesn't seem to be sufficient 'shielding' so I wouldn't do that with my method currently. But I think the tucked wire at the base/plastic interface doesn't see any juice so that one I don't worry about.

The paper clip/safety pin, if problematic, is a problem for everyone, because its bathing in juice regardless of what happens at the connection.

Sterling, argentum, and pure silver seem to be no problem, bare in the juice.

l3oertjie, let me run something by you. What happens when I solder, which I don't like, is it seems like my iron likes to oxidize or burn up something on the solder (lead free, iron is 60 watts). Then I get charred crap everywhere. It rubs off with a finger nail, but it makes me nervous, and I can't ever get it all off. Do you think my iron is too hot? I have two different types of lead free solder and the same thing happens.

 

[l3oertjie]

Cyrus, please PM me with exactly what you want to do - I'm sure I can help. Pictures would also help. I always use hypodermic needles (stainless steel) with no other wires to the + and - contacts. Keep it clean.

 

[Cyrus Vap]

I will do, but I'm going to be a bit slow on it, I'll take pics and PM within a day or so

 

[TomCatt]

One type of 'galvanization' is hot-dipping, steel is dipped into molten zinc. Another type, most likely used in the wire for paper clips, is electroplating of the zinc. There is the possibility of cadmium being in the zinc; it's the cadmium not the zinc which could be the problem.

Boys (and gals), I am somewhat confused. All the talk about a "safe wire" - where from and why please? If it is only to make S/Steel stick to the centre post and side chamber - the lead free solder will cover all copper or any other "non safe" wiring. Please enlighten me, I'm not sure what all the talk is about?

Just did this with some 27 gauge SS tubing. Unfortunately my coil is a bit high in ohms , will have to re-do the coil; but now have a rebuildable CE2 with SS posts.

 

[Cyrus Vap]

Thanks for the reply TomCat

Did you solder the S/Steel directly without any copper wire or anything? How hot did you have to get your iron?

 

[TomCatt]

Thanks for the reply TomCat

Did you solder the S/Steel directly without any copper wire or anything? How hot did you have to get your iron?

I wrapped a thin strand of bare copper wire around the end of the SS tubing about 3 or 4 times, cut the copper wire as close to the SS tubing as I could, then soldered this to the central post and base (for the two SS posts). The lead-free solder coats the copper wire and got a very stable solder join.

I had also read that with the acid fluxes for soldering to SS, the join could start corroding.

Tried a number of times to solder the SS tubing with just the lead-free solder with no luck. With wrapping some copper wire, tinning, and soldering, was a piece of cake .

<<I'm still vaping with the CE2 in which I used the paper clips for the posts at the moment. I'm not extremely concerned about the safety level of this; just wanted to put it out there. As soon as I can get a better coil on the CE2 with the SS posts, I'll retire the one with the paper clip posts.>>


ETA: OK, got a nice coil on the SS post CE2 and vaping away

BTW, when I ordered the 27 gauge SS tubing from eBay, I got 48". They sent it in a 4 foot mailing tube Why not just coil it and send it in an envelope??

 

[Teach]

If you're having trouble soldering or prefer to wrap the contact you could use soft stainless steel wire. You may have someone locally who carries it.

The only success I've had soldering SS and silver is actual silver solder (56% Ag)- best to buy it by the foot - it sells based on the price of silver. It also uses a silver flux (white flux) but I can't find the vender I bought it from. The down side is the hi heat required (1300+F for most). You'll need to search if you decide to try it.

Who knew... Just found this at Home Depot.

 

[ChrispyCritter]

I thought about building one of these but after a little practice I found it pretty easy to repair CE2's just by soldering..I also make my own atomizers out of CE2 parts for use with my DoD..I started building them because I got sick of my Carmel Tobacco killing atomizers in a short time and the price of atomizers.

I can unsolder the wires replace the coil in a few mins solder it back on..of course with lead free solder and water soluble flux..plus I wash them really good under a faucet after I solder on them. I'm amazed at how many times I can clean/burn off CE2's and my homemade "CE2omizers" lol.

I even have a couple of them that I still use since last summer. I actually rarely even repair them because they last so long besides they only cost about $2 each..I more use parts and wicks from old ones to use in my "CE2omizers" although because they last so long I have been using the same parts for months and have more of them than I can use.

The only thing I'm kind of running short on is wicks but I only need about half a XL CE2 wick for each of my "CE2omizers" so I can always pull apart a working one that I have in bags waiting for a cleaning...

 

[Cyrus Vap]

@TomCat: cool stuff! my ss hypodermic should be here soon, i'll keep you posted

@teach: noted. what is it that 'fails' for you when you try to solder SS without 56% silver solder? Does it not 'stick' right? Even with a copper wrap? I think both lead free solders that I have are something like 95% tin 5% antinomy. Actually that's one of them, the other is "silver bearing lead free solder"

ChrispyCritter: same for me on the lifespan of CE2s. They just go and go and go. Doing this is motivated by half hobby, half decreasing the ohms a tad (I prefer the CE2s re coiled at 2.2-2.4 ohms). And like you I seem to be able to get equal if not better performance with about half the wick they come stock with

 

[Cyrus Vap]

Just googled around a bit

That 56% silver solder is still ~20% copper

And I'm not feeling so good about antimony lol

 

[johnlacie]

Just googled around a bit

That 56% silver solder is still ~20% copper

And I'm not feeling so good about antimony lol

Here's what I've used before (just 96% tin and 4% silver) ...Radioshack Lead-Free Solder

 

[l3oertjie]

And if you are tired of soldering you can try this:
If your CE2 shell is metal (some are made from plastic) you can maybe just bend the paper clip or needle to firmly touch against the shell inside - the electrical current will flow from the bottom connection through the shell and straight towards the paper clip. Hope that makes sense? The other way is to drill a small hole through the bottom battery connector just big enough to allow your paperclip or hypodermic needle to push though. This is my preferred method. Once through the hole I make sure there is conductivity and then bend the tip of the needle through 90° and push it as flat as I can. a drop of super glue seals and secures the post when done.

I also made one where I can remove the entire ceramic cup for easy coil and wick replacement. The ceramic cup part basically just pushes into the hypodermic needles at the bottom to form something like this:

 

[ChrispyCritter]

Here's what I've used before (just 96% tin and 4% silver) ...Radioshack Lead-Free Solder

I have the thin Lead-free from them in a 3oz roll enough to last awhile..it's close to the same except it does contain a very small amount of copper. I'm not really worried about it though as it stays nice and shiny even after it's been in e liquid awhile. I also use a small thing of water soluble flux..I only use very small amounts of the flux on a pain brush and I rinse it really good under a hot faucet.

 

[ChrispyCritter]

And if you are tired of soldering you can try...

Very nice..but I won't get tired of soldering as I probably only have to do it a couple times a month..plus I don't mind it as I'm a tinkerer

I'm using a butane soldering iron/torch so it only takes 1min to warm up about and it's a lot easier to solder wire free..although it took awhile to get used to the hot vent (I can move it so not a big deal) and not slightly burn my finger on it lol.

The torch is really nice for burning off wicks and the ceramic cup..when the cup is dirty if you clip it (I usually let it cool move the clip so I can heat the part that was clipped to) to something and put a torch to it getting it glowing hot it will come out looking just like new

 

[ChrispyCritter]

...And like you I seem to be able to get equal if not better performance with about half the wick they come stock with

I think you misunderstood my post..I still use full wicks in my regular CE2's but I build atomizers out of them and use about half a wick in them..when putting together my homemade atomizer I point the wick ends up when putting the tube on and tuck them around the ceramic cup between it and the tube as a juice "catch"..these are made with some regular CE2's or shortened XL ones..they work really good for dripping

I also use NICHROME 60 WIRE and just try to use a little over an inch usually so that should be about the OHM range you make yours. Although I have a LT VV Tube so I think I'm going to shoot for 3ohm when I need to make a new one for use on it

 

[TomCatt]

@TomCat: cool stuff! my ss hypodermic should be here soon, i'll keep you posted

Ya know, just thought to myself, why not use SS wire, better conductor. eBay 26 gauge SS wire
This should still fit through the ceramic cup holes, maybe

@teach: noted. what is it that 'fails' for you when you try to solder SS without 56% silver solder? Does it not 'stick' right? Even with a copper wrap? I think both lead free solders that I have are something like 95% tin 5% antinomy. Actually that's one of them, the other is "silver bearing lead free solder"

ChrispyCritter: same for me on the lifespan of CE2s. They just go and go and go. Doing this is motivated by half hobby, half decreasing the ohms a tad (I prefer the CE2s re coiled at 2.2-2.4 ohms). And like you I seem to be able to get equal if not better performance with about half the wick they come stock with

Same here!!

 

[johnlacie]

Ya know, just thought to myself, why not use SS wire, better conductor. eBay 26 gauge SS wire
This should still fit through the ceramic cup holes, maybe

These fits the holes rather nicely ... Round Wire 316L Stainless Steel 24 Gauge

I used the above for my repairable CE2s.

 

[TomCatt]

These fits the holes rather nicely ... Round Wire 316L Stainless Steel 24 Gauge

I used the above for my repairable CE2s.

Thanks John, I missed that in your earlier post. <<adds another item to the to-order list>>

 

[Cyrus Vap]

Yes I did! Thanks for the clarification Do you make your own atomizers with the CE2 cup assembly dropped into an atomizer shell?

I think you misunderstood my post..I still use full wicks in my regular CE2's but I build atomizers out of them and use about half a wick in them..when putting together my homemade atomizer I point the wick ends up when putting the tube on and tuck them around the ceramic cup between it and the tube as a juice "catch"..these are made with some regular CE2's or shortened XL ones..they work really good for dripping

I also use NICHROME 60 WIRE and just try to use a little over an inch usually so that should be about the OHM range you make yours. Although I have a LT VV Tube so I think I'm going to shoot for 3ohm when I need to make a new one for use on it

 

[Cyrus Vap]

Thanks for the suggestions!

TomCat, why would the wire be a better conductor than the hypodermic tubing? Because of the latter being partially hollow?

anyway the 27 gauge tubing just arrived....in a ten foot long tube LOL. My gf is gonna KILL me.