Repairable CE2

[ChrispyCritter]

Yes I did! Thanks for the clarification Do you make your own atomizers with the CE2 cup assembly dropped into an atomizer shell?

The whole insides are CE2 but no shrink wrap or rubber plugs and I don't use any mesh. I have used the tube from an old atomizer but cutting one down from a stainless XL CE2 works too. Most of the 510 tubes are the same size around.

I've also used 3ml syringe tubes but prefer using stainless. It pretty simple and works good..some juice gets wasted because it drips down past the wick but it's usually pretty burnt (this is probably more because I'm dripping a thick Carmel liquid when I've used other I saw less) so most of it went through the atomizer.

I tried using mesh to wrap the "head" but thought it worked better without it more like a debridged atomizer..with the mesh the coil gets really gunked up with heavy liquids anyways...

 

[TomCatt]

Thanks for the suggestions!

TomCat, why would the wire be a better conductor than the hypodermic tubing? Because of the latter being partially hollow?

anyway the 27 gauge tubing just arrived....in a ten foot long tube LOL. My gf is gonna KILL me.

Yeah, it would seem that with more steel there would be better conductivity. The 27 gauge tubing seems to be working fine, the wire will probably be thrown into the eBay basket if when I make my next order.

Glad I only ordered the 48" piece

 

[BJ43]

Yeah, it would seem that with more steel there would be better conductivity. The 27 gauge tubing seems to be working fine, the wire will probably be thrown into the eBay basket if when I make my next order.

Glad I only ordered the 48" piece

Link for the 27 gauge ss tubing??? Please

 

[TomCatt]

On eBay:

27 gauge SS tubing

26 gauge SS wire

 

[BJ43]

On eBay:

27 gauge SS tubing

26 gauge SS wire

Thanks.....

 

[Sad Society]

I thought I read somewhere that the number of wraps of the coil can indicates the level ohms.

Is this true? Is there a chart or something to go by?

 

[johnlacie]

I thought I read somewhere that the number of wraps of the coil can indicates the level ohms.

Is this true? Is there a chart or something to go by?

There's several things that affect the resistance of a coil such as the type of resistance wire (kanthal or nichrome), gauge/thickness of the resistance wire (e.g. 32 gauge), and the length of the wire. Depending on the diameter of the coil your making, the resistance varies as well. A reliable way to determine the resistance (ohms) of your coil is to get yourself a multi-meter.

 

[Sad Society]

There's several things that affect the resistance of a coil such as the type of resistance wire (kanthal or nichrome), gauge/thickness of the resistance wire (e.g. 32 gauge), and the length of the wire. Depending on the diameter of the coil your making, the resistance varies as well. A reliable way to determine the resistance (ohms) of your coil is to get yourself a multi-meter.

I have a multimeter, and a whole bunch of CE2's. More than your average vapor I think. I still have about 55 or more unused ones.

I haven't rebuilt any though. But I have plenty of burned out ones to try.

So what is the/your prefered material wire for the coil?

Thanks.

 

[Cyrus Vap]

Man I was working with that 27 gauge hypodermic tubing and its a PAIN in the ....! Its very brittle, snaps super easy.

What's the thickest gauge people have gotten through the cup without modding, 24? 22?

I have def gotten some hypodermic needles through there and I think they were as thick as 22, but I can't remember as the needles were older and no longer wrapped and labeled

As the OP eventually noted, even if you get the 27 gauge set up perfectly, the likelihood of it surviving a second recoiling/rewicking without snapping seems to be slim

but then again, practice makes perfect!

Sad society, the only material I have is nichrome 80, in 32, 34, and I think 36 gauge.

The 34 seems to work best. On a single thick wick 4 tight wraps gives me about 2.0 ohms, 5 is about 2.3.

The 32 is a pain, kind of a unicorn for me. Small adjustments seem to make monster differences for me. I'll wire it with 6 wraps and it'll be 3.4 ohms. I'll reduce to 4 wraps and then it'll be 1.5 ohms (my gear can't handle this, neither can my throat lol). Its frustrating! But others have used it to great success.

I got it dirt cheap from an ebay vendor; it was something like 2 dollars shipped/each for quite a bit

 

[Cyrus Vap]

eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

 

[ChrispyCritter]

I get mine here NiChrome 60 Wire it's probably less expensive on eBay but I just buy it when I'm making juice orders. Also you don't need a multimeter if you know the approximate ohm of the wire..like the wire I buy it's 27ohms a foot +/-3% so 1 inch would be within 3% of 2.25ohms..I don't even worry about being super accurate either I just get it close to where I want it and it seems to work pretty good

 

[WillyB]

I get mine here NiChrome 60 Wire it's probably less expensive on eBay but I just buy it when I'm making juice orders. Also you don't need a multimeter

Get the 80 instead.

PnJ Resources, LLC : Nichrome 80

Everyone need a multimeter.

 

[ChrispyCritter]

Get the 80 instead.

PnJ Resources, LLC : Nichrome 80

Everyone need a multimeter.

Well what I meant was you don't need one to make a coil..but it's good to have one and I own a digital multimeter myself..I rarely use it to measure ohms of my coils though and they have worked well..they work so well I rarely have to replace them. On occasion I have cut them a little long or short though but they weren't that much a different that I worried about it. To me I worry more about getting the coil wrapped tightly around the wick as it seems if you don't get it around good you get hot spots.

I make my coils by soldering the wire on wrapping the NiChrome around a micro screwdriver..then I turn the wires to "open" the coil a little and I feed the wick through like threading a needle..sometimes I wet the tip of the wick a little (sometimes with my mouth but I wash it after so it doesn't matter)..once the wick is in I twist the wires around until the coil is pretty tight..then I feed the wires into the ceramic holding the wires from unwrapping.

Pull the wires tight bend them to hold the coil and solder..then I rinse it really good..dry it with a paper towel and by blowing out any excess water I can. Lastly I take my mini-torch and burn off the wicks to remove anything plus moisture hook it to a eGo to dry off the coil make sure I got a good wrap and assemble the atomizer/cartomizer use it..I can make a new coil in a few mins and they have been lasting weeks at least

 

[Sad Society]

Does anyone know what size the original silica wicks are?

I was thinking to getting this Shop IMPERIAL 3/8" Fiberglass Gasket Kit at Lowes.com and just unthreading it.

I got the idea from someone mentioning it in another thread. But I want to make sure that the unthreaded wick will still fit.

I don't really want to go to advanced wicking material until I've actually made a repaired CE2.

Also I'm not sure on what size gage kanthal to get. I'm not going to put the kanthal through the holes of the ceramic cup. I like the idea of using some pins as connectors, as mentioned earlier in this thread.

And for the pins...cut SS safety pins? Do you think this would work instead? http://www.walmart.com/ip/Metal-Head-and-Eye-Pins-100pk-Copper/19231714 (Scan over the pic for a closer look) I saw them today at the store and almost bought some. But I wanted to be certain of what I need. They have them in silver, copper, and gun metal. Which metal would work the best?

I'm pretty new to modding and I'm not an electrician. So any info helps. Thanks.

 

[Cyrus Vap]

Very nice..but I won't get tired of soldering as I probably only have to do it a couple times a month..plus I don't mind it as I'm a tinkerer

I'm using a butane soldering iron/torch so it only takes 1min to warm up about and it's a lot easier to solder wire free..although it took awhile to get used to the hot vent (I can move it so not a big deal) and not slightly burn my finger on it lol.

The torch is really nice for burning off wicks and the ceramic cup..when the cup is dirty if you clip it (I usually let it cool move the clip so I can heat the part that was clipped to) to something and put a torch to it getting it glowing hot it will come out looking just like new

Chrispy do you mind sharing what kind of torch this is? You're the second person I've seen speak highly of them, and I saw them starting at ten bucks at home depot. Do you have to go expensive on these to get a good product?

 

[iuseaspork]

I've seen these at Walmart for like $3 before and they work if you are careful.
Amazon.com: Ronson Jetlite Butane Lighter - Satin Chrome: Home & Kitchen

 

[Cyrus Vap]

I'd totally burn my face off using that thing LOL

 

[ChrispyCritter]

Chrispy do you mind sharing what kind of torch this is? You're the second person I've seen speak highly of them, and I saw them starting at ten bucks at home depot. Do you have to go expensive on these to get a good product?

IDK about highly..I think it works good though..one issue is they don't sell replacement tips for it and the tip wears..but it has a couple tips I could grind down if I needed a pointed tip. I see it doesn't get good reviews but I've been using mine since December at least once a week and it has done the job..it cost me $20 I don't expect it to last forever but if I get a year or more out of it I'm happy I'm sure it will last a couple though.

The nice thing is it gets hot fairly and a lot hotter than my cheap Radio Shack plug in, no wires, it can be used to burn off things or solder. For that it's probably worth buying one every couple years. Downsides are you have to light it and the pointed soldering tip isn't great but it has worked decent for soldering on cartos/atomizers/coils and you have to be careful of the vent hole to not burn yourself..it can be positioned though and once you find your spot you don't burn yourself.

You might be able to get a better torch like this but it probably would be more than $20. Also maybe you could find tips for it somewhere but BernzOmatic doesn't sell them.

BernzOmatic Soldering Torch Head

Edit: BTW I can understand some of the criticisms in the reviews but I think some people expect too much from an inexpensive torch..also you have to take care filling with them..probably some of the issues are people getting dirt in them I'm sure. Also the one you see at Home Depot is the same one I have except mine (mine is even all black unlike the one I linked) is in a kit with a couple other tips..when mine dies I might consider buying that for $10. I mean it's $10 maybe you should pick one up to try and if you don't like it I'm sure they would take it back...

 

[Teach]

I've seen these at Walmart for like $3 before and they work if you are careful.
Amazon.com: Ronson Jetlite Butane Lighter - Satin Chrome: Home & Kitchen

This butane Micro Torch at Harbor Freight words really well, has a good refill life, and stands up on it's base. The Pencil torch style has its purposes, but very short refill time and won't stand on end. The Bernzomatic Micro Torchhas more bells & whistles than the first one, but I end up using the Harbor Freight Micro most of the time - I just keep it in the kitchen.

Sad

Copper isn't recommended next to the coil, in a juice tank , or near the heat... track back in this trOno oon the discussion of silver.

 

[Cyrus Vap]

Do any of you pro modders have anything 20ish gauge on hand that you can try and thread through a CE2 cup?

I have all these needles and their no longer packaged/labeled and they do fit, but I have no idea what the gauge is. I want to get something thicker than the 27 gauge I got, its too flimsy, but it works if you're precise.

I just want to confirm that something like 20 will work before I order.

Pretty please!