RM2 / RBA 2.0 / Reomizer 2 Rebuild Tutorial

[super_X_drifter]

Here is a photo tutorial of a very easy way to build the RM2. Many of the principals would apply to any bottomfed rba. Props to juice Junkies photo tutorial on the original REOmizer for simplifying the process and giving me the courage to try it for myself. For me the photos work so much better than videos, cause you can look at the same one as long as you have to to understand it. It is going to be a sequence of posts, since my coil building skills are much better than my picture posting ones . I have also discovered a neat little trick that makes installing the rolled cotton wick even easier... (it was already easy).
Here goes:

Here are the tools i use:

 

[super_X_drifter]

To make the coil, I use a 4" piece of Kanthal A1 30 gauge wire. 4" is an easy length to work with, it gives you nice long tails.
Before we make the coil, were going to "torch" the wire by taking a bic lighter and running the flame down the entire length of wire until it glows red. then cool it by holding it under the faucet for a second. I torch and cool 3 times. I use a pair of hemostats to hold the wire during this process so i dont burn my fingers.

 

[super_X_drifter]

Lets make the coil. I am going to use a 14 gauge blunt tip luer lock needle as a mold to wrap the coil around. In the first picture, I have started the wire - just simply hold about 1/2" or so of the wire between your fingers as they grasp the green side of the mold. With your other hand, just wrap the wire (pulling it tight as you wrap) around the needle until it looks something like picture 2. I try to keep the wraps close to each other, touching wraps is good. I believe that this is about 8-9 wraps. It will be around 1.8ish ohms. If you like a cooler vape, add a couple more wraps. If you like it hotter, leave a couple of wraps off. Notice that both "tails are pointing in the same direction. Also notice the direction the wire is wrapped - that is important to get the correct orientation to the holes in the posts.

 

[super_X_drifter]

Now were ready to mount the coil on the atomizer. I leave the atomizer on my REO to build. Its a good idea to take out the battery.. Lets loosen the screws in the posts. In the first picture, I have put the tails thru the holes. I started by inserting the tail that was slightly longer, then the shorter tail. In the second picture, I have pulled the tails to get the coil closer to the final position. Notice that i have left the coil on the mold.

 

[super_X_drifter]

Here, the screws are ready to be tightened. Notice that I have pulled the tails so that the the mold is tight to the post and hold it there with my thumb. The coil itself is centered between the posts. Then I tighten the screw on that post, first then tighten the next post screw.

 

[super_X_drifter]

After tightening down, I use the mold to push / pull (adjust) the coil into its final position. These pictures show the location where you want the coil when you are finished adjusting it. I pulled the mold out for clarity in these photos. It is important that the coil is not touching the posts, not too close to the posts or not out away from the posts so far that it would contact the cap when installed.
This position shown is pretty much ideal. After i have it in this position, I give the screws a little turn to make sure they are still tight.

 

[super_X_drifter]

Alright, lets wick this bad boy. Here, I am using a little piece of rolled cotton. I picked up a box of it at CVS for about $6. Its called "sterile rolled cotton". I moisten my "twisting fingers" on my right hand with a wet paper towel and twist it up into a little rope (thanks Hildicat).

 

[super_X_drifter]

This is what your wick should look like for installation. You want it to be pointed on one side and nice and dense after the very pointed tip. The dense part is the part that will stay in the coil after we trim the wick. The wick will perform best when it's dense enough to make full contact with the coil, but not so thick that it is difficult to pull thru the coil. If it is too thick, just twist it some and / or remove a little cotton. If it is too thin, discard it, grab another dollop of rolled cotton and start again.

 

[super_X_drifter]

Here i have slid the mold back thru the coil, (cause I'm gonna use it to thread the wick thru the coil) then I trim the very tip of the pointy part of the wick so there are no stray fibers. Now, stick the pointy end of the rolled cotton wick into the hollow end of the mold (Just discovered this little trick ).
Then I slide the mold back thru and out of the coil (taking the wick with it). Now I grab the wick and move it into final position with my fingers.

Note: the cotton wick is very easy to replace - just repeat these steps whenever you want a fresh wick, leaving the coil in place. The coil will last for weeks (if you can keep yourself from rebuilding it for that long )

 

[super_X_drifter]

Here, I have trimmed the wick. I trim it with scissors so it is even with the edge of the bowl on both sides. Then, I use a nail clipper to trim the tails of the coil. After trimming the coil tails, I bend them up so they are up against the posts. Notice that I have also used tweezers to tuck the wick tails down into the bowl of the atomizer. I have also gently pushed the coil down slightly using my finger. You dont want the coil too close to the bottom ( or too high ) and don't let the wick obstruct the juice hole or don't push it down in the juice hole. You want the bowl to drain freely.

 

[super_X_drifter]

At this step, I squonk a few times so I can see how the juice flows up into the atomizer. This will help you better understand the way the coil and wick gets wet. You also want the wick to get good and saturated before firing / vaping.

 

[super_X_drifter]

Now i have put my cap back on. Notice the air hole in the cap. I hit this grand with the button pointing down, so the airhole is pointing up. You always want the airhole pointing up when you hit. Use the oring that came with the RM2 by placing it in the catch cup before you screw on the RBA. This should allow you to align the airhole where it needs to be. If not, i have also used the thicker one from a grand bottle cap to achieve the desired results. Please see post # 29 for an update / further information on this step





Now if your wick is good and saturated, go vape it like you stole it

 

[JC Okie]

Russ, PERFECT! We've needed this! Thank you for taking the time. Hey, in posts #5, #6, and #7 the pictures aren't showing (for me at least.) They show "attachment__________" but the picture isn't coming through. Thought you might want to check that.

Good job, buddy!!!

Jan

 

[Commie]

Very nice tutorial! Thank you!

 

[super_X_drifter]

Jan, can you see them now? Sorry they didn't show up. Thank you for the compliments. I have been wanting to do that for a while, because juice junkies OP helped me get curious, lose my fear and just get after it . Now I keep on keeping on .

 

[boilednuts]

BIG MAHALO BRO!! You da man bruddah (pigeon english for brother, try it....so much easier to say). Great tip in using the blunt needle. By the way posts 5,6 and 7 attachments still nut showing

 

[super_X_drifter]

Thanks NutzCracker. I think i finally just fixed em

 

[inkdog]

Excellent job Russ...very cool!

 

[Plaz]

Nicely done!

 

[fatherdano]

great idea!!