Wow, nice pouch. I found something similar at Walgreens. It was a diabetic-kit pouch for about $8 and makes for an excellent travel pouch.
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Wow, nice pouch. I found something similar at Walgreens. It was a diabetic-kit pouch for about $8 and makes for an excellent travel pouch.
OMG HELP!!!!!!!!!!
so i bought 2 maxi's off the classafied, one v1 one v2. I put 2 shorty sealed 510 adapters on the v2 to use my liquinator. It was working awesome for a week, now it wont fire the liquinator, but it will fire a dcc 1.5 . Can anyone help? pls!
so i bought 2 maxi's off the classafied, one v1 one v2. I put 2 shorty sealed 510 adapters on the v2 to use my liquinator. It was working awesome for a week, now it wont fire the liquinator, but it will fire a dcc 1.5 . Can anyone help? pls!
Try loosening the shorty from the roughstack a bit. Push the button and turn slowly until it fires. For me those shorties always end up pushing the pin too far in and I have to back it off to make it work.
one shorty in is fine and will fire but 2 stacked to fit the liquinator is the problem.
Right. If you look at the center pin on the carto, then add the first shorty you will see the pin is out further, add a second shorty and the pin goes out even further, so you have to loosen it from the Roughstack to get it to work. I had the same issue and that's why I switched to the longer single 510 extension since it doesn't make the center pin stick out further like shorty extensions do. Before I got that I stuck an O-ring around the connector for the bottom shorty and used a pair of pliers to tighten it down little by little until it would fire, otherwise it's all floppy and tends to re-tighten or loosen further past the "sweet spot" it needs to fire.
Both my RS and Maxi-RS had the same issue develop after a few weeks of use. I'm guessing the pressure put on the pin in the 510 socket on the RS gets to the point where it just won't fire anymore when screwed all the way in.
Both my RS and Maxi-RS had the same issue develop after a few weeks of use. I'm guessing the pressure put on the pin in the 510 socket on the RS gets to the point where it just won't fire anymore when screwed all the way in.
A new fix for the spring switch/intermittent fire problem:
I was putzing around trying to figure out how to fix this. I'm on my second spring switch and was starting to have the same intermittent fire problems as the first.
Thanks to a magnifying glass, some spare time, and advanced spatial cognition I finally sussed out what was working, what wasn't, and a solution.
The 510 connector is a post in a tube with a gasket. The post has linear travel.
The switch board has a compression spring to connect to this post and complete a circuit waiting for a press of the button.
The spring has a bit of plastic straw as insulator.
AND THERE IS THE MURDERER, THE CULPRIT! In other words, the problem.
Compression springs are handy things. They push things apart. In this case they provide a pretty secure, easy to replace connection for the circuit. But, the lighter the spring the more it wants to go sideways under load. Where we want a straight line between circuit board and 510 connector, once the straw insulator gets wonky(that's a technical term for those understanding advanced spatial cognition) the spring goes sideways. In the middle. Shoves that plastic insulator all around. SHORTS!
No fire. No Joy.
So, let's corral that spring.
What have I got around here? Nope, too big. Nope, too small. Ah! Goldilocks, this one is just right!
1/4 nylon air tubing fits very precisely around the spring. Cut the same length as the original straw. And that wimpy little spring ain't going anywhere but in a straight line anymore.
Now to mitigate the ravages of time.
Take something gentle like an ink pen filler and push the center post of the 510 connector up a bit. Maybe a 16th. It's been pushed down by cartomizers, and atomizers.
Trim 1/2 turn off the top of the spring. It's been abused by now and we want fresh spring.
Put the switch back in the cap. Be careful to line up the spring and connector, and the switch and hole, and push straight in. Secure nut.
Did all that make sense the way I said it?
I was putzing around trying to figure out how to fix this. I'm on my second spring switch and was starting to have the same intermittent fire problems as the first.
Thanks to a magnifying glass, some spare time, and advanced spatial cognition I finally sussed out what was working, what wasn't, and a solution.
The 510 connector is a post in a tube with a gasket. The post has linear travel.
The switch board has a compression spring to connect to this post and complete a circuit waiting for a press of the button.
The spring has a bit of plastic straw as insulator.
AND THERE IS THE MURDERER, THE CULPRIT! In other words, the problem.
Compression springs are handy things. They push things apart. In this case they provide a pretty secure, easy to replace connection for the circuit. But, the lighter the spring the more it wants to go sideways under load. Where we want a straight line between circuit board and 510 connector, once the straw insulator gets wonky(that's a technical term for those understanding advanced spatial cognition) the spring goes sideways. In the middle. Shoves that plastic insulator all around. SHORTS!
No fire. No Joy.
So, let's corral that spring.
What have I got around here? Nope, too big. Nope, too small. Ah! Goldilocks, this one is just right!
1/4 nylon air tubing fits very precisely around the spring. Cut the same length as the original straw. And that wimpy little spring ain't going anywhere but in a straight line anymore.
Now to mitigate the ravages of time.
Take something gentle like an ink pen filler and push the center post of the 510 connector up a bit. Maybe a 16th. It's been pushed down by cartomizers, and atomizers.
Trim 1/2 turn off the top of the spring. It's been abused by now and we want fresh spring.
Put the switch back in the cap. Be careful to line up the spring and connector, and the switch and hole, and push straight in. Secure nut.
Did all that make sense the way I said it?
Ah- so I've been using a roughstack for the last several months- I bought mine from a brick and mortar smokeshop, and didn't know it had a name. Nice to know I can buy replacement parts for it. Awesome little machine- batteries last all day, serious vapor...
i have been using my roughstack for a lil under a week now and now i know for sure i dont need to smoke ever again.
the maxi with an 18650 3000 mah and a full tank makes me a happy camper.
the maxi with an 18650 3000 mah and a full tank makes me a happy camper.
The roughstack was my begining of the end to smoking also, good luck and happy vaping
Try the MaxiRS at 6v with a 2.0 ohm DC or 3.0 ohm DC at 7.4v and see how that grabs ya!Glad to hear u are off the nasty's.....
Hi Everybody
Just wanted to drop by and say a quick hello. I ordered a RoughStack V2 to add to my army of mods last night. I figured that I needed something smaller at times since my other mods are full sized ones, not to mention a mod that sounds quite rugged and durable and I won't have to be too stressed about dropping or scratching. From everything I've read, all of you RoughStack owners seem to be very pleased with them.
In just a couple of days (already received my 'shipped notifiction') I, too, will be enjoying one of these little guys
I also ordered a couple of 18350 AW IMR batts that will hopefully be on their way by tomorrow. Although MadVapes says the RS V2 will accept the 16340 batts, I'd rather have the 18350s on hand.
Just wanted to drop by and say a quick hello. I ordered a RoughStack V2 to add to my army of mods last night. I figured that I needed something smaller at times since my other mods are full sized ones, not to mention a mod that sounds quite rugged and durable and I won't have to be too stressed about dropping or scratching. From everything I've read, all of you RoughStack owners seem to be very pleased with them.
In just a couple of days (already received my 'shipped notifiction') I, too, will be enjoying one of these little guys
I also ordered a couple of 18350 AW IMR batts that will hopefully be on their way by tomorrow. Although MadVapes says the RS V2 will accept the 16340 batts, I'd rather have the 18350s on hand.
Greetings. Ive been a learning lurker here for a while and I thank all of you for the good information on this thread and site.
Have a question and figured I would ask here before I put in a ticket.
Has to do with stacking 16340 3.0V MV#10121 batteries in a Maxi RS. Ive been experimenting with different voltages and wanted to try 6V on single and dual cartos. Whenever I stack a pair they dont drive the carto. Nothing. I have good voltage at the battery connector and they also work individually in a shorty RS. Also tried cleaning the battery terminals. No joy. They dont seem to be tripping.
Am I missing something here?
Using MV shorty and Maxi RS with the batteries mentioned above with a variety of cartos: 2.0ohm DCC MV#3223, 3.2ohm SCC MV#3416 and Ive even tried the 1.5ohm DCC MV#3152 just to see they would put out anything. They are pushing individually but nada when stacked.
Also using 18350 3.7V MV#10019 and 4.8V MV#3090 NiMH without a problem.
BTW, those 4.8V batts with the 3.2ohm SCC are great! Want to see what they can do with 6V.
Thanks in advance for any insight.
Have a question and figured I would ask here before I put in a ticket.
Has to do with stacking 16340 3.0V MV#10121 batteries in a Maxi RS. Ive been experimenting with different voltages and wanted to try 6V on single and dual cartos. Whenever I stack a pair they dont drive the carto. Nothing. I have good voltage at the battery connector and they also work individually in a shorty RS. Also tried cleaning the battery terminals. No joy. They dont seem to be tripping.
Am I missing something here?
Using MV shorty and Maxi RS with the batteries mentioned above with a variety of cartos: 2.0ohm DCC MV#3223, 3.2ohm SCC MV#3416 and Ive even tried the 1.5ohm DCC MV#3152 just to see they would put out anything. They are pushing individually but nada when stacked.
Also using 18350 3.7V MV#10019 and 4.8V MV#3090 NiMH without a problem.
BTW, those 4.8V batts with the 3.2ohm SCC are great! Want to see what they can do with 6V.
Thanks in advance for any insight.
Bubbablue I've been using them batts the 3.0V UF mentioned with all combo's of carto's stated and they should work with them.Have u checked to see if carto's are the ohm's suppose to be?What charger do u use to charge them batts?
Thanks for the reply Dale. This is now getting interesting considering they work for you.
I rigged up an adapter so I could watch what was happening. When I hit the switch, I get good voltage for anywhere between .1 second and 1 second and then it drops to zero. Test was with either 2.0 or 3.2 cartos installed. Guessing the the batts are tripping. Like I said above, they work fine individually. Using three different batts and all are new.
Using MV#3213 HG-1210W to charge them.
When charged, they read between 3.5-3.6v.
Cartos.
3.2ohm SC = 3.1ohm actual.
2.0ohm DC = 2.3ohm actual.
Using a Fluke DMM.
Off subject. Just got my first pass through yesterday and using it on MV's 2A wall wart. MAN! Using the 2.0ohm DCC on that thing is frickin' awesome. Better amps than what I'm getting from the NiMH 4.8v for sure.
I rigged up an adapter so I could watch what was happening. When I hit the switch, I get good voltage for anywhere between .1 second and 1 second and then it drops to zero. Test was with either 2.0 or 3.2 cartos installed. Guessing the the batts are tripping. Like I said above, they work fine individually. Using three different batts and all are new.
Using MV#3213 HG-1210W to charge them.
When charged, they read between 3.5-3.6v.
Cartos.
3.2ohm SC = 3.1ohm actual.
2.0ohm DC = 2.3ohm actual.
Using a Fluke DMM.
Off subject. Just got my first pass through yesterday and using it on MV's 2A wall wart. MAN! Using the 2.0ohm DCC on that thing is frickin' awesome. Better amps than what I'm getting from the NiMH 4.8v for sure.
Now the batts I am using I got from MV about 1-2 yrs. ago have'nt used them much in that span because mainly use 2 3.7v batts for 7.4v vaping with 3ohm DC now until recently when brought these out of the woodwork because got low on my 3.7v batts and went back to 6v.
Maybe the protection circuits are more sensitive on these batts now I don't know.Anyway reason asked about which charger u use on these is because I am asking on this thread this ??
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/madvapes/275782-overcharged-batteries.html
Ultrafire Protected 16340/RCR123A 3.0 V Li-Ion I charged these batts on this charger AG-126 Lithium Ion Battery Charger Hadn't used these batts in awhile but was running low on batts so got them out of my older stash and charged them on charger listed...came of charged at 4.2v after an hour checked them and now they read 3.6v.Did I overcharge them since they are 3v batts?I thought I use to charge them on this charger but can't remember so before I use them thought I would ask someone with knowledge.Thanks for any info.
Maybe the protection circuits are more sensitive on these batts now I don't know.Anyway reason asked about which charger u use on these is because I am asking on this thread this ??
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/madvapes/275782-overcharged-batteries.html
Ultrafire Protected 16340/RCR123A 3.0 V Li-Ion I charged these batts on this charger AG-126 Lithium Ion Battery Charger Hadn't used these batts in awhile but was running low on batts so got them out of my older stash and charged them on charger listed...came of charged at 4.2v after an hour checked them and now they read 3.6v.Did I overcharge them since they are 3v batts?I thought I use to charge them on this charger but can't remember so before I use them thought I would ask someone with knowledge.Thanks for any info.
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Possible. Might be a more sensitive trip circuit. Don't know. They are definitely cutting out.
As far as charging. They seem to charge ok on the charger I'm using but the charged indication is different than when doing 3.7v 16340s. Instead of going all green, it blinks green/red. That's when I pull them off and they seem fully charged @3.5-3.6v. Before I bought the charger and batts, I asked MV if they work together and was told yes.
I'll pick up some 3ohm DC to try with 7.4v on my next order. Thanks for the heads up. Have more of the 3.7v batts laying around anyhow. The 3.0v are now useless to me because they are too wimpy alone. Was hoping to stack them with the cartos I was using with the 4.8v.
Now, to find a 10mile extension cord to feed that pass through. Me = spoiled.
BTW, the name is Rick
As far as charging. They seem to charge ok on the charger I'm using but the charged indication is different than when doing 3.7v 16340s. Instead of going all green, it blinks green/red. That's when I pull them off and they seem fully charged @3.5-3.6v. Before I bought the charger and batts, I asked MV if they work together and was told yes.
I'll pick up some 3ohm DC to try with 7.4v on my next order. Thanks for the heads up. Have more of the 3.7v batts laying around anyhow. The 3.0v are now useless to me because they are too wimpy alone. Was hoping to stack them with the cartos I was using with the 4.8v.
Now, to find a 10mile extension cord to feed that pass through. Me = spoiled.
BTW, the name is Rick
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