Russian 91% v2 irratic resistance readings

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Elantis

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This looks like the right answer to me.

To the OP...

do us a favor and screw your Russian 91% V2 on your black box, but only enough that the center pin "just" makes contact with the center pin.

Let us know what the results are.

I am betting that this is the reason for the issue.

The problems that people are experiencing is not with the V1 as pictured, the problems are existing in the V2 Russian which has a spring loaded center pin in place of the one you see in the posted picture.

It looks like this:

27y7hn9.jpg
 

petemoss

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Elantis, you're right; I'm showing a v1 pin. I don't have a R91 v2 yet because I was waiting for a black v2 that Kebo expected to ship out in mid April. My friend just got a v2 from vapordna and is experiencing problems with the resistance jumping around. I'll take one of my R91 center pins and we will try it in his R91. I'm pretty sure that will solve his problem.

I'm disappointed that Kebo messed up this floating pin upgrade. Why couldn't Kebo just copy how other companies make a floating pin instead of trying an unproven design? Guess it's hard to achieve consistent connectivity when the connection is constantly shifting around. GP has come up with a novel approach with their new Heron atty which does away with a 510 connection. The base of the Heron screws directly into the battery tube, doing away with the 510 connector as well as the top cap of the mod.
 

Elantis

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Elantis, you're right; I'm showing a v1 pin. I don't have a R91 v2 yet because I was waiting for a black v2 that Kebo expected to ship out in mid April. My friend just got a v2 from vapordna and is experiencing problems with the resistance jumping around. I'll take one of my R91 center pins and we will try it in his R91. I'm pretty sure that will solve his problem.

I'm disappointed that Kebo messed up this floating pin upgrade. Why couldn't Kebo just copy how other companies make a floating pin instead of trying an unproven design? Guess it's hard to achieve consistent connectivity when the connection is constantly shifting around. GP has come up with a novel approach with their new Heron atty which does away with a 510 connection. The base of the Heron screws directly into the battery tube, doing away with the 510 connector as well as the top cap of the mod.

Yes I don't know why either, and they couldn't have done any testing on this for so many of them to show up faulty. I don't know if anyone has the means but wonder if it would be possible to tap threads into the pin so it could be replaced with a screw - I'm just throwing it out there as I don't have the knowledge, skills or tools to do such a thing, but just wondering if it could be done.

Guess I'm a lucky one as well, or i haven't had it long enough to get the issue.. Only been enjoying the high life for a week!!!

Keeping my fingers crossed for you...mine is good too so far :)
 

bcalvanese

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The problems that people are experiencing is not with the V1 as pictured, the problems are existing in the V2 Russian which has a spring loaded center pin in place of the one you see in the posted picture.

It looks like this:

27y7hn9.jpg

I understand, but the thing is... the v2 pin is spring loaded, and the v1 pin is not. What this could mean is that you could screw the v2 in far enough for the housing to make contact with the center pin of the black box, where the v1 center pin is not spring loaded and could cause it not to be able to be screwed in enough for the housing to make contact to the center pin of the black box.

This could be easily verified by the OP if he decides to try it.
 

MikeE3

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I understand, but the thing is... the v2 pin is spring loaded, and the v1 pin is not. What this could mean is that you could screw the v2 in far enough for the housing to make contact with the center pin of the black box, where the v1 center pin is not spring loaded and could cause it not to be able to be screwed in enough for the housing to make contact to the center pin of the black box.

This could be easily verified by the OP if he decides to try it.

I hear what you're saying but I "do not think" that's what is happening. Here's why. I screwed a 510-510 adapter to a wonky R91V2 then screwed it to a black box and it still gave erratic readings - actually the meter never settled down - showing values between 1.2 and 5.4Ωs.

Also - my other R91V2 shows the same 1.0Ω on the black box every time I attached it / remove it / attach it / etc. It's consistent and never floats around hunting for a value.

That said - on my 'good' R91V2 using a DVM touching the floating pin and the rim of the 510 connection - depending how far I depress the pin I get readings from 1.3 to 1.0Ωs But at least it 'hold' the value at a given position. Doing the same test on the wonky one and the meter would just keep searching for a value, like on the black box.
 

Loopy1224

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I contacted Vapor DNA about this yesterday. They responded promptly and have already sent a V1 pin to replace the defective one in the V2. They have been in touch with Kebo and expect new v2 pins but they didn't mention when they would get them. Excellent vendor with spot on customer service. I will be using them as often as possible.
 

carrielsal

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This was the response on FDV's FB page regarding the pins yesterday.

For some reason, it started being used in auth R91. It is supposed to be for ToBeCo's and clones only. BUT... One of my earlier friends from 2 when I started my business gave me the R91V2 specs so I will have them made. I was also told that the contact screw had bad threads. I'll fix that as well... Right now, i am looking at 3 weeks...
 

MikeE3

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This was the response on FDV's FB page regarding the pins yesterday.

For some reason, it started being used in auth R91. It is supposed to be for ToBeCo's and clones only. BUT... One of my earlier friends from 2 when I started my business gave me the R91V2 specs so I will have them made. I was also told that the contact screw had bad threads. I'll fix that as well... Right now, i am looking at 3 weeks...

Geez - I dislike FB. I looked all over his site for that post and couldn't find it. If you have a direct link to it - could you PM it to me. (you can click on the timestamp of a particular post to get a link to just that post)

Don't think we're allowed to link to FB in ECF posts
.

edit - never mind - found it. Thanks for posting the info
 
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The Ocelot

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The more I read the more I feel like I dodged a bullet. Someone linked me to this thread just a couple of hours after I ordered a RV2. I immediately contacted the vendor to ask what their plan was to deal with the issue of the pin and they thanked me for the heads up, since they didn't know about it. I didn't get a follow-up email, just a shipping notice. I finally emailed them again and said that I had read of so many people having problems I didn't want it. I expected store credit (and had a bunch of other toys picked out), but they said to refuse the package and they would refund my money.

Last night I found out Vaperev had the Svoemestro KFL+ in stock. It was only about $10 more than the Russian, so I will have a new toy coming after all! What I don't understand is the price. Initially I didn't bother to look at the authentic ones since I assumed they would cost a lot more, but apparently not (or not if you don't buy from FT). I thought clone-ish (I don't consider the Russian really a clone) devices were less expensive and that was one of the reasons for buying them, that and some people liking them better.
 

Bimini Twist

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I recently (past 2 weeks) got both a KFL+ and a RV1. Your right Jerms, only about a $7 difference. I much prefer the appearance of the KFL+ but like the adjustable center pin on the 91%.

That adjustable center pin would be enough reason to buy a Russian if one is having trouble with the Kayfun contacts. Guess I've been luck in that regard.
 
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