Russian 91% v2 irratic resistance readings

[kas122461]

I am just wonderingm if anyone has tried these 2 vendors? I found one of them, and someone else found the other, for these V1 pins.

The Russian 91% Replacement Parts - EVcigarettes.com

Russian 91% Spare Parts

KAS

 

[horton]

$16 for one screw? I understand it's "special" but aren't they made by the bushel so to speak? Seems like someone is taking advantage of Russian owners.

 

[MikeE3]

I finally went out to the mail. My screws look just like yours. I posted a pic on fat daddy vape's FB page.
I think I've given up until I get an authentic R91 v1 center pin.

Well he (FD) told me he was going to get new post & screw made based on the dimensions I gave him. We'll see. We'll also see if they actually screw together properly. I stressed to him that the fit had to be right to be functional - it' not just the length.

I am just wonderingm if anyone has tried these 2 vendors? I found one of them, and someone else found the other, for these V1 pins.

The Russian 91% Replacement Parts - EVcigarettes.com

Russian 91% Spare Parts

KAS

Yeah - but for the price + shipping you could about buy a complete decent clone.

 

[horton]

EV comes to over $25 for the two parts. Can't you buy a FT clone for less than that?

 

[kas122461]

$16 for one screw? I understand it's "special" but aren't they made by the bushel so to speak? Seems like someone is taking advantage of Russian owners.

The prices on these 2 sites is why I posted here, there has to be some better prices, mine seems to be working, but that might change, I am kind of dreading going to my b&m and asking them to get them for me, I would just like to get some extras, just in case.

KAS

 

[horton]

The prices on these 2 sites is why I posted here, there has to be some better prices, mine seems to be working, but that might change, I am kind of dreading going to my b&m and asking them to get them for me, I would just like to get some extras, just in case.

KAS

Won't the mfg be sending out kits to make the problem right? I thought I saw that earlier. I worry now about the center screw on my Russian that I'll twist it one day. I'm really being careful!! Wonder if that spring could act as a sort of fuse? I need to get my hands on one to see how it looks....maybe the local shop has them.

 

[magicmyst]

I am just wonderingm if anyone has tried these 2 vendors? I found one of them, and someone else found the other, for these V1 pins.

The Russian 91% Replacement Parts - EVcigarettes.com

Russian 91% Spare Parts

KAS

EVC is an well established vendor. Just got my 91% v1 from them.

 

[horton]

I'll second for EV. They have been around for a while now.

 

[HazMatt]

Has anyone tried removing the center pin and taking it apart? Perhaps cleaning it thoroughly and stretching the spring will help. I may just try it tonight.

 

[horton]

It was mentioned that you can take it apart, but I think taking it apart is a one way operation. You have to remove metal that holds things together to get it apart so I guess I'd call is a "destructive" dismantling. For some reason the term "swage" sticks in my head.

 

[petemoss]

Noob here doing my first build on a Russian 91 v2. Looks like I have a defective unit to but I do have a question. I build a coil and put it on my ohm meter and I get readings fluctuating from 4.3 to 5.7 ohms but when i screw the build onto my provari it reads a steady 2.1. Anybody know why that would be?

I believe you're getting a bad connection or short with your ohm meter. I have one of those black box ohm meters and when I look inside the female 510 connector, I can see that the positive pin head is much larger than the positive pin on my Provari. A smaller pin has less chance of shorting by touching the negative (ground) part of your atty's 510 connector. I'm not explaining it very well and will try to take a picture later. Got to do my taxes tonight!

 

[HazMatt]

It was mentioned that you can take it apart, but I think taking it apart is a one way operation. You have to remove metal that holds things together to get it apart so I guess I'd call is a "destructive" dismantling. For some reason the term "swage" sticks in my head.

After taking the center pin out, it looks like you are correct. It appears that the spring loaded pin is press fit into the post. It does not pull out with hand strength alone.

I did notice one other thing that may be causing a problem. The 510 threading is covered with the same grey coating as the body. Only the very bottom of the 510 threads are clear of the coating. Perhaps removing the coating will improve the connectivity. I wish I had a Dremil with a wire brush bit.

 

[Loopy1224]

So do we now believe the fluctuation is being caused by a "bad fit" when screwing the deck onto an ohm meter? As i said earlier mine is working fine on my provari. I've had it going since yesterday with no issues.


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[MikeE3]

After taking the center pin out, it looks like you are correct. It appears that the spring loaded pin is press fit into the post. It does not pull out with hand strength alone.

I did notice one other thing that may be causing a problem. The 510 threading is covered with the same grey coating as the body. Only the very bottom of the 510 threads are clear of the coating. Perhaps removing the coating will improve the connectivity. I wish I had a Dremil with a wire brush bit.

I saw that too and cleaned it up w/ a Dremel - didn't help.

So do we now believe the fluctuation is being caused by a "bad fit" when screwing the deck onto an ohm meter? As i said earlier mine is working fine on my provari. I've had it going since yesterday with no issues.


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I even tried a 510-510 adpater w/ the R91V2 and the black box tester - still couldn't get a reliable/consistent reading. Don't understand at all why it 'acts' like that on the BB tester.

 

[HazMatt]

I saw that too and cleaned it up w/ a Dremel - didn't help.

...

You're breaking my heart here. Every idea I have has been tried and does not work

After I receive the replacement V1 pin from my supplier, I still may try to remove the spring from the post.

 

[horton]

You're breaking my heart here. Every idea I have has been tried and does not work

After I receive the replacement V1 pin from my supplier, I still may try to remove the spring from the post.

From what I understand you may remove the spring, but won't be able to put it back the way it was due to having to "damage" the assembly containing the spring. Saw a close up of the assembly and it looks like what I'd call a crimp fit -- the metal is sort of bent to make things stay together. It would take tools I sure don't have to even try to take it apart without ruining the assembly.

 

[Elantis]

After getting the "Fix" package from FatDaddy's and finding it to be inferior, and looking all over the webs for any and all vendors carrying parts for the R91 and their ridiculous prices and basically finding out that I would be in deep "you know what" if mine started acting up (which thankfully it isn't) I decided to run all the tests possible.

I have two Black Boxes, one with you connections and another from FT with the 510/Ego connection alone. When I built my R91-V2, I went for a 1.7Ω coil. I tested on both BB's, one read 1.72 and the other 1.75 - okay so far so good. I also have two multimeters, both inexpensive ones but workable nonetheless.

1.7 on the yellow one and same on the black one, the only thing I cannot test right now is the on the deck since it is still full and will have to wait to do that...I was just getting a little paranoid about all these different readings so I needed to do the tests myself to calm my mind. Now I can only hope that mine doesn't fail at some point in the future.

 

[petemoss]

Here's the pic I promised. Note how much larger the positive pin of the ohm meter is compared with the positive pin of the Provari.
Unless the center screw of the Russian 91 (v1) is slightly protruding, you won't get a clean connection. The ohm meter pin will touch the outer ring of the R91 510 connector, causing a short. The smaller pin on the Provari will easily attach to the R91 without shorting.

 

[MikeE3]

After getting the "Fix" package from FatDaddy's and finding it to be inferior, and looking all over the webs for any and all vendors carrying parts for the R91 and their ridiculous prices and basically finding out that I would be in deep "you know what" if mine started acting up (which thankfully it isn't) I decided to run all the tests possible.

I have two Black Boxes, one with you connections and another from FT with the 510/Ego connection alone. When I built my R91-V2, I went for a 1.7Ω coil. I tested on both BB's, one read 1.72 and the other 1.75 - okay so far so good. I also have two multimeters, both inexpensive ones but workable nonetheless.

1.7 on the yellow one and same on the black one, the only thing I cannot test right now is the on the deck since it is still full and will have to wait to do that...I was just getting a little paranoid about all these different readings so I needed to do the tests myself to calm my mind. Now I can only hope that mine doesn't fail at some point in the future.

Nice! Nice to hear some good news in this thread!

 

[bcalvanese]

Here's the pic I promised. Note how much larger the positive pin of the ohm meter is compared with the positive pin of the Provari.
Unless the center screw of the Russian 91 (v1) is slightly protruding, you won't get a clean connection. The ohm meter pin will touch the outer ring of the R91 510 connector, causing a short. The smaller pin on the Provari will easily attach to the R91 without shorting.

This looks like the right answer to me.

To the OP...

do us a favor and screw your Russian 91% V2 on your black box, but only enough that the center pin "just" makes contact with the center pin.

Let us know what the results are.

I am betting that this is the reason for the issue.