Safety of Mechanical MODs

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Bassnorma

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At the risk of sounding like a fanatical Reonaut, which I am, I would highly recommend a REO grand mod. They appear to be pretty much indestructible, very simple design.


If he goes that way....the Kayfun is not bottom feed so it won't work...what do you top yours with?
 

NOMINDTR

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At the risk of sounding like a fanatical Reonaut, which I am, I would highly recommend a REO grand mod. They appear to be pretty much indestructible, very simple design.

Thank you. I want to move to mech mod for my practical reasons. I would like to ask you what basically make someone user a mech mod wheres there is a built in safety available with a hybrid? If I am right, a VV/VW mod can be used with a RDA or something to fine tune, and to find the sweat spot. What makes mechanical special?

Thanks
 

Bassnorma

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Thank you. I want to move to mech mod for my practical reasons. I would like to ask you what basically make someone user a mech mod wheres there is a built in safety available with a hybrid? If I am right, a VV/VW mod can be used with a RDA or something to fine tune, and to find the sweat spot. What makes mechanical special?

Thanks

Everything is a trade off in vaping.

If you regulate, you cannot get down to low subohm levels without the device cutting off the circuit. But you also get consistent power feed so you don't feel sags and surges from the battery

If you don't, you can get down there pretty damned low (even dangerously low if you are not careful) but the battery can go into thermal runaway.

I imagine a mech user (from what I read of their posts) likes a couple of things about a mech...

1) No extra circuitry to fail, simple, easy to troubleshoot or repair.
2) Freedom to build to a lower resistance without amp limitations from the mod itself
3) Lots of choices in look and style. Some of them are very cool looking and come in a variety of metals and woods.


I am sure a mech user could add to that list easily.
 
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NOMINDTR

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Everything is a trade off in vaping.

If you regulate, you cannot get down to low subohm levels without the device cutting off the circuit. But you also get consistent power feed so you don't feel sags and surges from the battery

If you don't, you can get down there pretty damned low (even dangerously low if you are not careful) but the battery can go into thermal runaway.

I imagine a mech user (from what I read of their posts) likes a couple of things about a mech...

1) No extra circuitry to fail, simple, easy to troubleshoot or repair.
2) Freedom to build to a lower resistance without amp limitations from the mod itself
3) Lots of choices in look and style. Some of them are very cool looking and come in a variety of metals and woods.


I am sure a mech user could add to that list easily.

1. and 3. are my appeals :)
 

rhean

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Digital meters OK?

Yes, digital meters are fine. Digitals can also be used to measure the battery, so they're (imo) absolutely necessary. Ohms meters are practical in that you screw your atty on to it to find out its resistance, but they're useless for batteries.

You need good, name-brand batteries. Baditude's blogs are super helpful http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blogs/baditude/6740-18-baditudes-blogs.html Do not buy any batteries that have "fire" in their names lol. Buy from a reputable dealer. SONY VTC series are good.

One problem with mechanicals is that it's up to you to "sense" when the battery is getting too low. If you go too low, you'll wreck the battery. Switch to a fresh battery once the one you have is down to 3.5-3.6. You should be able to "feel" this in your vape. In the beginning, measure every hour or so, to get a feel for it.

You need a good charger that will not overcharge the batteries. I have an Intellicharger http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-IntelliCharger-i4-Battery-Charger/dp/B005UAI372

For wires, 26, 28, 30 gauge kanthal work well. I knit and crochet, so I use the thinner hooks and needles for wrapping the coil. You can also use a mini screwdriver set. It's all trial and error, preference, etc.

Many people buy organic cotton balls, and spin them into wicks. Cotton is handy in that it's almost like thread--you can thin it out to fit the coil the way you can't with silica, then tweeze it through, shape it, etc.

Youtube has literally hundreds of tutorials on wrapping coils.

Re mechs: Clones are (imo) as good as originals. I'd suggest looking on Fasttech. Read the reviews, but also read the discussions. If a given model has issues, you'll find out in discussion. I have a Hammer clone, which I wouldn't suggest for beginners. I also have a brass m16, which is excellent, and a Launcher, stainless steel, which I love. Both are telescopic, and very, very easy to adjust for different battery lengths and different attys. I also have a Cartel clone, copper tube, copper contacts. It's a little trickier to adjust, but can be done. Its venting, though, is sketchy. People love their Stingrays and Nemesis is popular. There are hundreds of these things!
 
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Bassnorma

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To Rhean's last point...you want good venting because if there does happen to be an issue with the battery you want it to be able to vent properly so as not to explode...also I would think you would want one that allows you to lock the firing button. You don't want a mod firing accidentally, particularly when you have to pay so much attention to the battery's charge level...
 

ElConquistador

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I'm sorry for not clarifying about the REO. It is a bottom fed mod, it carries a bottle of e-liquid that is connected to the 510 connection with a tube. It is basically a dripping atomizer that is fed from the bottom up by squeezing the bottle every few puffs. It requires bottom fed atomizers, which are specially made with holes in the connection to allow the juice to flow up into it. You can put a Kayfun on it, but it won't be bottom fed, which kind of defeats the purpose. I've had mine for a month, and it's about as simple as you can get mechanically. The battery spring is designed to collapse if you have a short, so it does have some safety built in.

The manufacturer has a variety of bottom feed atomizers for sale.
 

Bassnorma

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So if #1 and #3 are your main reasons for choosing a mech...you can always use these Vape Safe fuses....They only handle a single battery event though. It will give you a bit of safety while vaping...you could pick up a few as training wheels (oops that might be an American thing...training wheels are the extra set of wheels we put on kids bicycles until they learn to ride without falling over) ;)

Or the Reo...but a Reonaut will have to help you understand your bottom fed Atty options...again not my territory....yet ;)
 
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rhean

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To Rhean's last point...you want good venting because if there does happen to be an issue with the battery you want it to be able to vent properly so as not to explode...also I would think you would want one that allows you to lock the firing button. You don't want a mod firing accidentally, particularly when you have to pay so much attention to the battery's charge level...


I prefer the Launcher and the Cartel because the buttons are recessed, and there's no need to mess with a locking ring. But, yeah, m16's locking ring isn't ideal.
 

NOMINDTR

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So if #1 and #3 are your main reasons for choosing a mech...you can always use these Vape Safe fuses....They only handle a single battery event though. It will give you a bit of safety while vaping...you could pick up a few as training wheels (oops that might be an American thing...training wheels are the extra set of wheels we put on kids bicycles until they learn to ride without falling over) ;)

Or the Reo...but a Reonaut will have to help you understand your bottom fed Atty options...again not my territory....yet ;)

Is this a similar thing? $8.37 Variable Voltage Kick Module for Mechanical Mod - 3.2V-4.8V at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
 

Bassnorma

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I don't see the mech guys all running in here....so ....

For tube style mods apparently Nemesis and Sigelei or their clones are apparently good mechs (according to other forum posts) and are considered "work horses" but are very attractive.

Keep in mind if you go copper...you are going to want copper toppers (attys) as well. This can prove pricey.

For box style...Reo not sure what else...
 

tmel

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Copper will do weird things to your juice if the atty is made of copper. You don't want copper contacts, you want copper contacts with a plating that does not oxidize.

Mods with an adjustable 510 connection or perhaps a hybrid are good to look for as well.

Kick in a mech is kind of a waste of time, if you want to change your vape, +/- a wrap on your coil.
 

Bassnorma

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Not exactly..a kick will give you short protection but also let you adjust voltage...the safe vape is just a protection fuse. I was thinking while you are getting used to feeling your vape sag and knowing that it is time to recharge batteries...the vape safe would give you some training wheels.

Honestly, if you want to regulate voltage or wattage...then a mech really is not in order.

But having said that....kicks exist for a reason. I would guess that reason might be for someone who wants the look of a mech and some of the safety of regulation.
 

NOMINDTR

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Copper will do weird things to your juice if the atty is made of copper. You don't want copper contacts, you want copper contacts with a plating that does not oxidize.

Mods with an adjustable 510 connection or perhaps a hybrid are good to look for as well.

Kick in a mech is kind of a waste of time, if you want to change your vape, +/- a wrap on your coil.

Thanks. That helps
 
I use mechs only and I have a few *cough*7*cough* I own m16 clone, two Blackhawk clones, Kamry 100, Kamry 101, copper panzer clone, and 4nine. Honestly I would recommend any of those except maybe the blackhawks and that's only because the adjustment pins require fiddeling.

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