mechanical mod help

Status
Not open for further replies.

mione

Full Member
Mar 1, 2019
48
129
hi
I have gone from a myle ecig and decided to get into the mechanical mods as think they are fantastic looking. I just purchased a used style of mojo vs2013 not a clone with a A.I style of mojo drip tank (rta). my question is i want to add a safety device like a kick 2 but i cannot find anything. is there another device that took its place? i really love this mechanical mod any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 
  • Optimistic
Reactions: stols001

jandrew

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Apr 2, 2013
2,109
12,360
Winnipeg
Well, since you've gone from a pod device to mech mod I have to ask:

1) do you know ohms law?
2) do you know how to wrap coils that stay within the CDR of your battery? (do you know what CDR limits are?)
3) do you know about battery safety, and where to get trusted batteries?
4) do you have a device to check the ohms of your coils/atomizer?

You should not use your mech mod until you can answer "YES" to all of the above. You should give the following a thorough read:

(8) A Beginner's Guide to Your First Mechanical Mod | E-Cigarette Forum

I am not familiar with the mech mod you mention, so I don't know if it has room for a Kick device or not. However, you can still get a Kick at a few places, Canvape for example lists them in stock:

[Clearance] The Kick by EVOLV

Do proceed slowly and carefully and do not hesitate to ask about anything you don't understand.
 

MacTechVpr

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 24, 2013
5,723
14,401
Hollywood (Beach), FL
A sweet little highly efficient parallel like the one below would do you nicely. But you'll need to work up to that learning to make singles and make sure as noted above that you're operating within the capacity of your battery, 26650 if it's a Megan. Check the power chart on my blog link below for temperature targets and Mooch's blog for battery specs.

Good luck. :)

 
Last edited:

tj99959

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
  • Aug 13, 2011
    15,095
    39,494
    utah
    Great advice given above.

    Understand, when you install something like the kick, it is no longer a mechanical mod.
    It becomes a regulated mod just like all the rest.

    I use mechanical mods almost exclusively, and have for the better part of 9 years.
    The nice part is that a good mechanical mod will last almost forever.
    in fact the last mod I have bought was 7 years old when I got it, and with a little TLC it now is like brand new.

    Just understand that a mechanical is as safe as YOU make it, and that they can ruin your day if you don't fallow safe practices.
     

    mione

    Full Member
    Mar 1, 2019
    48
    129
    Hello and thank you

    I have been taking it real slow as i am in no rush to blow my face off. yes i have been reading for weeks on end and it becomes so confusing with everything on the internet.

    I will read your link tonight to see if i missed anything. According to an online app LINK>>> Ohms Law Calculator ohm calculator i will be using a single coil that is 0.8ohms Clapton type with a Samsung 30Q 18650 battery that should be at 0.8 ohms 5.25 amps 22.05 watts with 4.2 volts. is this ok? below is the details of the battery. i have ordered all of the testing equipment, chargers, batteries, and pre made coils by Pre Built Coils RDA RTA Coil Alien Clapton Kanthal Wire Prebuilt Kit AKATTAK 26. As for the kick link that was the first version and maxs out at 10watts and the ne i am looking for maxes out at 15watt, but maybe i will give it a try as i don't even know yet if that is going to be to strong for me as i use this myle thing and have no idea what it puts out LOl
    below is a picture of my exact setup enjoy not my picture only using it as an example

    DESCRIPTION
    Power up your device with real high quality Samsung 18650 batteries. Samsung 30Q batteries with capacity of 3000mAh.
    Max discharge current of 15A
    30Qbatteries will produce a very constant and clean power.
    FEATURES OR IMPROVEMENTS
    ü Li-Ion (high-discharge) battery
    ü Flat Top battery
    ü Nominal Voltage: 3.6V nominal
    ü Standard Charge: 1.5A, 4.2V, 150mA Cut-off
    ü Rapid Charge: 4A, 4.2V, 100mA Cut-off
    ü Peak voltage: 4.2V
    ü Cutoff voltage: 2.5V
    ü Cell Weight: 48g max
    ü Rated capacity: 3000mah
    ü Max discharge current: 15A
    ü Maximum charge voltage: 4.2
    ü Dimensions: 18.33mm x 64.85mm

    style of mojo.jpeg
     

    MacTechVpr

    Vaping Master
    ECF Veteran
    Verified Member
    Aug 24, 2013
    5,723
    14,401
    Hollywood (Beach), FL
    Really nice looking device even if clone. If you decide to try hand turning strained micro's and the parallel's above just nudge (or PM) me on one these threads anytime.

    Tensioned Micro Coils. The next step.
    Protank MicroCoil Discussion!!

    Good luck. :)

    p.s. On the above I'd shoot to start you at around the .8Ω range (~25W) for starters and have you learn how to side-slip some air in your draw to cool the vape down. Most I think will opt in the short term to somewhat lower res, higher power but you might like it cooler. Tensioned micro's (t.m.c.'s run cooler than any standard coil). They're optimized to concentrate power. So you can use less watts/batt for good vapor output. More wire of itself is no guarantee of vapor production efficiency.
     
    Last edited:

    tj99959

    ECF Guru
    ECF Veteran
  • Aug 13, 2011
    15,095
    39,494
    utah
    The 30q is a good battery, and so long as you check the resistance of that build BEFORE you put it on the mechanical mod, you are well within the limits of the battery.
    Just put the rta on one of your regulated mods to see what the resistance is. (and to make sure that it isn't shorted)

    add:
    I use MTL atomizers, so my builds are much simpler than what MacTech uses.
    Single coil 3ga A1 @ 1.8 ohms (~ 8 watts)
    (just so that you know that there are many safe ways to use a mechanical mod)
    P1010583_zpsgoavjgl7.jpg


    ps: NEVER use this atomizer on a hybrid top cap.
     
    Last edited:

    jandrew

    Ultra Member
    ECF Veteran
    Apr 2, 2013
    2,109
    12,360
    Winnipeg
    Hello and thank you

    I have been taking it real slow as i am in no rush to blow my face off. yes i have been reading for weeks on end and it becomes so confusing with everything on the internet.

    I will read your link tonight to see if i missed anything. According to an online app LINK>>> Ohms Law Calculator ohm calculator i will be using a single coil that is 0.8ohms Clapton type with a Samsung 30Q 18650 battery that should be at 0.8 ohms 5.25 amps 22.05 watts with 4.2 volts. is this ok? below is the details of the battery. i have ordered all of the testing equipment, chargers, batteries, and pre made coils by Pre Built Coils RDA RTA Coil Alien Clapton Kanthal Wire Prebuilt Kit AKATTAK 26. As for the kick link that was the first version and maxs out at 10watts and the ne i am looking for maxes out at 15watt, but maybe i will give it a try as i don't even know yet if that is going to be to strong for me as i use this myle thing and have no idea what it puts out LOl
    below is a picture of my exact setup enjoy not my picture only using it as an example

    DESCRIPTION
    Power up your device with real high quality Samsung 18650 batteries. Samsung 30Q batteries with capacity of 3000mAh.
    Max discharge current of 15A
    30Qbatteries will produce a very constant and clean power.
    FEATURES OR IMPROVEMENTS
    ü Li-Ion (high-discharge) battery
    ü Flat Top battery
    ü Nominal Voltage: 3.6V nominal
    ü Standard Charge: 1.5A, 4.2V, 150mA Cut-off
    ü Rapid Charge: 4A, 4.2V, 100mA Cut-off
    ü Peak voltage: 4.2V
    ü Cutoff voltage: 2.5V
    ü Cell Weight: 48g max
    ü Rated capacity: 3000mah
    ü Max discharge current: 15A
    ü Maximum charge voltage: 4.2
    ü Dimensions: 18.33mm x 64.85mm

    View attachment 800763
    It seems you are doing well with your research prior to use -- that is good. Your planned usage of 0.8 ohm coils with a 30Q is well within the safety margins (indeed that is in the neighborhood of what I use, also with 30Q batteries, except I prefer simple round wire builds as they are more responsive).

    Sorry, I wasn't paying attention to my link for the Kick and didn't realize it was the version 1. At any rate, if it is safety you are primarily after, you might consider a fuse instead of a Kick module:

    Bug Safety Fuse by Atmizoo

    This gives you protection but still allows your mech to operate as a mech, and you'll get more than 15 watts with your 0.8 ohm coils (closer to 19-20 watts figuring in some voltage drop and voltage sag).
     

    MacTechVpr

    Vaping Master
    ECF Veteran
    Verified Member
    Aug 24, 2013
    5,723
    14,401
    Hollywood (Beach), FL
    The 30q is a good battery, and so long as you check the resistance of that build BEFORE you put it on the mechanical mod, you are well within the limits of the battery.
    Just put the rta on one of your regulated mods to see what the resistance is. (and to make sure that it isn't shorted)

    add:
    I use MTL atomizers, so my builds are much simpler than what MacTech uses.
    Single coil 3ga A1 @ 1.8 ohms (~ 8 watts)
    (just so that you know that there are many safe ways to use a mechanical mod)


    You flatter me tj, I wish. Make these 3-post and parallels because I don't have the time to be comparing them as I used to vs everything else. Wish I did. But true, most of my stuff right now is hi- pwr whether mech or var and all of it multi-wire. The rest tho is quite conventional single-coil and mostly single wire, i.e. Subtanks at .82-.88Ω and on occasion the 1.5-1.8Ω Kanger PT, Aero, or Mega. There are folks I still start on these or similar on occasion. I still use most every kind'a vape but don't much tootie like I used to.

    Good luck. :D
     
    • Like
    Reactions: charlie1465

    Baditude

    ECF Guru
    ECF Veteran
    Apr 8, 2012
    30,394
    73,072
    70
    Ridgeway, Ohio
    hi
    I have gone from a myle ecig and decided to get into the mechanical mods as think they are fantastic looking. I just purchased a used style of mojo vs2013 not a clone with a A.I style of mojo drip tank (rta). my question is i want to add a safety device like a kick 2 but i cannot find anything. is there another device that took its place? i really love this mechanical mod any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
    Check out the Bug Safety Fuse by Atmizoo - MyVaporStore

    Bug-Newest.jpg


    Question directed to @Mooch
     

    mione

    Full Member
    Mar 1, 2019
    48
    129
    hi everyone thanks again for all the great information i am so looking forward to reading all of it. i was able to find a smok kick on ebay. surprisingly it was on $11 bucks brand new and there were several for sale. i will see how this goes and i plan on getting the Bug Safety Fuse by Atmizoo - MyVaporStore as well just in case the kick doesn't work out for me.
    but i can regulate from 5watts to 12watts with the kick but i don't know if this will be to week for me or not but from what videos i have see on youtube and around here i think i will be in good shape. as i progress i will update you all as i have so much stuff being delivered from multiple places. i cant do anything until the ohms tester comes in but i will be sure to post what it reads.

    Michael
     
    • Like
    Reactions: stols001

    CasketWeaver

    Moved On
    ECF Veteran
    Feb 20, 2014
    559
    5,080
    Decatur, IL 62521
    View attachment 800849 oh by the way i just wanted to share a pic of the break down after cleaning it today. what is recommended to lubricate the threads? i read chap-stick is that correct? LOl

    Chap stick or dielectric grease works wonders. Chap stick any parts that may rub together (ie firing button and delrin rings, bottom switch threads, top cap threads, etc.), that will prevent too much material from rubbing down / wearing away and all that. Vaseline may work too. I would be a little light on the vaseline part though. The best thing to do is to just run down to a hardware store and see if they have anything such as dielectric grease. That stuff is used in a lot of machinery - especially machinery with exposed electronics. A little dab here, a little dab there, and voila!

    As for battery safety my dude (or dudette), just pick a fairly good battery (with 26650's - they're pretty hard to come by now). And make sure you got a grand idea of what you're doing. A hard short on a mech is grounds for catastrophe. Start simple and work your way up from there. As for CDR - it stands for Constant Discharge Rate (AMPS the battery is capable of discharging SAFELY without venting or overheating and going into thermal runaway.

    www.imrbatteries.com
    -OR-
    www.liionwholesale.com
     
    Last edited:
    • Like
    Reactions: stols001

    Ben85

    Ultra Member
    ECF Veteran
    Mar 16, 2014
    1,640
    3,703
    Kent, UK
    Personally, I wouldn’t recommend using chapstick on threads. It will attract dirt and cause a rough action which goes against the point of putting it on there in the first place.

    Either keep the threads clean and don’t use any product, or use the tiniest (and I mean tiniest) amount of 3in1 on the threads.
     

    MacTechVpr

    Vaping Master
    ECF Veteran
    Verified Member
    Aug 24, 2013
    5,723
    14,401
    Hollywood (Beach), FL
    One of the very first things I do when I acquire a mod is review the threading. Taking some ultra-fine natural steel wool, equivalent or finer synthetic of same or a very fine brass wire brush I'll carefully, delicately de-burr the threads…if needed!

    First passing a common microfiber cleaning towel typical of those you'll find at the grocery will reveal any rough or too fine edges. They exist! Some very quality devices I've found to even shed fine hairs of metal from their grooves. Believe me, they will penetrate you and you'll be none the wiser. Or, you may know very soon, for very apparent reasons.

    With our mods: Stainless doesn't seize in common use. Brass or copper will not either no matter how much oxidation or patina. Unless you start adding bizarre chemistry to surfaces. Then all bets are off. I've got vats of all kinds of stuff. They all work great. Never use them. At least not on mods.

    My routine is to wipe the threads clear of oxidation and any residue of liquid with a microfiber towel every time I'm holding a device and it comes to mind (including for especially 510 threading and contacts). It's become almost instinctual. Too much, plain old water and a fine tooth brush. Baking soda toothpaste if there's any stubborn accrual.

    IMO the best solution is to make sure threads are fit from the onset. Oxidation spoils the vape.

    Good luck. :)
     
    Last edited:

    charlie1465

    ECF Guru
    ECF Veteran
    Dec 30, 2014
    10,789
    72,866
    Roquebrune sur Argens, Var, France
    View attachment 800849 oh by the way i just wanted to share a pic of the break down after cleaning it today. what is recommended to lubricate the threads? i read chap-stick is that correct? LOl

    That's a really nice looking device. Some good advice here. I will just add to it with ''be cautious but not scared of it''

    It won't bite you if you do what you're supposed to. Welcome and good luck :)
     

    stols001

    Moved On
    ECF Veteran
    May 30, 2017
    29,338
    108,118
    Okay a couple things.... Mech mods don't look so hot once blown up. They look pretty bad then.

    I have no doubt you can do fine with a mech if you want and you learn the safety issues involved. I do have to questions "I want to vape a mech mod because they are fantastic looking." I don't quite understand that rationale, it sort of.... I mean if you were hoping for a specific quality of the vape, I might understand it, perhaps. But,, there are also some reasonably attractive regulated mods too.

    You are doing the vaping equivalent of "I want to date the hot blonde with double Ds that I met a Denny's." Which is certainly your choice, but then you are gong to have to cope with the fact that she works at Denny's as a hostess (no offense to hostesses anywhere) it's more really hot chicks tend to come with issues and lack of need to become intelligent may be one of them.

    Which is SOMEWHAT apt, actually as your mech is not going to be as smart as some of your regulated mods at protecting you. You may have the female equivalent of a double D battery in there, but your girlfriend/mech will not be forgiving.

    Regulated mods are the smart brunettes. Nothing wrong with that.

    Anna
     
    Status
    Not open for further replies.

    Users who are viewing this thread