i agree with ^^. Asking a question like that shows you haven't got enough knowledge to be using a mech
mechanical mod help
- Thread starter mione
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
-
- Tags
- help mechanical mod
- Status
mione" data-source="post: 21598877" class="bbCodeBlock bbCodeBlock--expandable bbCodeBlock--quote js-expandWatch">It always depends upon the battery specifications that you are using.mione said:
The two most important things to know when using sub-ohm coils for an UNREGULATED MECHANICAL mod are:
- Know the true amp limit of the battery you have
- Know the amp draw of your coil.
Explain it to the Vape Noob: Ohm's Law Calculations for a Mechanical Mod
That's the analogy of the year so far...
Being pretty is actually the main thing that mechs have going for them imo.
Choosing a coil for a single battery mech -
Choose a wattage you want to vape at. Use ohms law to choose a coil resistance that delivers that wattage, and also to see how many amps that will demand. Choose a battery that has a CDR is excess of this amp demand.
Eample 1 -
0.3 ohms 59 watts 14 amps - Samsung 30Q or LG HG2 (3000 mAh)
Example 2 -
0.2 ohms 88 watts 21 amps - Sony VTC5A (2500 mAh)
Example 3 -
0.16 ohm 110 watts 26 amp - Samsung 20S (2000 mAh)
These wattage outputs are theoretical, because of voltage drop in the batteries and the mod the actual wattage will be significantly lower.
These values are calculated at peak battery charge of 4.2 volts. During use this value will rapidly fall to about 3.7/8 volts, before dropping off towards 3 volts.
So the question is ~ do you choose a coil that will provide a suitable wattage in the nominal 3.7/8 volt range but be too hot for the first part of the discharge. Or do you set for the initial peak value and settle for a cooler vape for the rest of the discharge curve.
Such are the joys of mechs.
Choose a wattage you want to vape at. Use ohms law to choose a coil resistance that delivers that wattage, and also to see how many amps that will demand. Choose a battery that has a CDR is excess of this amp demand.
Eample 1 -
0.3 ohms 59 watts 14 amps - Samsung 30Q or LG HG2 (3000 mAh)
Example 2 -
0.2 ohms 88 watts 21 amps - Sony VTC5A (2500 mAh)
Example 3 -
0.16 ohm 110 watts 26 amp - Samsung 20S (2000 mAh)
These wattage outputs are theoretical, because of voltage drop in the batteries and the mod the actual wattage will be significantly lower.
These values are calculated at peak battery charge of 4.2 volts. During use this value will rapidly fall to about 3.7/8 volts, before dropping off towards 3 volts.
So the question is ~ do you choose a coil that will provide a suitable wattage in the nominal 3.7/8 volt range but be too hot for the first part of the discharge. Or do you set for the initial peak value and settle for a cooler vape for the rest of the discharge curve.
Such are the joys of mechs.
I have found the quality of the vape is what I like about Mechs, slower ramp up and smoother amperage delivery compared to a regulated. YMMV
So I finally went to the shop down the block to see if i could get this going. The worker was very helpful in installing this coil that he made but did not test it or check the ohms. when i asked him why he told me to stop reading everything on the internet. so i let him proceed just to see what would have happened and the coil looked like it was on fire and the juice was crackling and popping so i removed it. i will now wait for my ohms tester before moving forward. he told me it was 5 wraps and 26 gauge.
The saga continues and i am still reading
take a look at what the setup looked like
The saga continues and i am still reading
take a look at what the setup looked like
So many issues here that I don’t know where to begin!
In short, firstly, that guy was an absolute idiot. Don’t go back there again.
Secondly, you should be building your own coils if you want to use mechs. If you can’t, don’t use them. Maintenance and building safely is what is required to get a good vape from a mech. If you aren’t willing to do this, your experience will potentially be poor or worse, dangerous.
Thirdly, crackling and popping can be quite normal and/ or is a sign of poor wicking rather than a poor coil.
Lastly, 5wraps of 26g what? The material makes a HUGE difference.
Go and read what to do and how to build. Good times are ahead if you do that. Plus, you will save your face and not line the pockets of idiots like that shop staff. It takes effort to get a good experience with a mech. If you aren’t willing to do that, buy a regulated mod and a tank that takes stock coils and save yourself the grief.
In short, firstly, that guy was an absolute idiot. Don’t go back there again.
Secondly, you should be building your own coils if you want to use mechs. If you can’t, don’t use them. Maintenance and building safely is what is required to get a good vape from a mech. If you aren’t willing to do this, your experience will potentially be poor or worse, dangerous.
Thirdly, crackling and popping can be quite normal and/ or is a sign of poor wicking rather than a poor coil.
Lastly, 5wraps of 26g what? The material makes a HUGE difference.
Go and read what to do and how to build. Good times are ahead if you do that. Plus, you will save your face and not line the pockets of idiots like that shop staff. It takes effort to get a good experience with a mech. If you aren’t willing to do that, buy a regulated mod and a tank that takes stock coils and save yourself the grief.
Would you trust Uber to transport your unaccompanied newborn home?
Would you trust McDonalds to cater your wedding?
You, uh, should learn to build and NOT trust some random person in a shop to do it for you.
You say "the saga continues." Uh huh I'll just BET it does, do keep us in the loop with whatever happens next so we can give you safety advice, which you may ignore.
Your mech is pretty HOT, I will say. Let's hope, not hot enough to cause thermal runaway and venting of your battery I guess that remains to be seen.
Anna
Would you trust McDonalds to cater your wedding?
You, uh, should learn to build and NOT trust some random person in a shop to do it for you.
You say "the saga continues." Uh huh I'll just BET it does, do keep us in the loop with whatever happens next so we can give you safety advice, which you may ignore.
Your mech is pretty HOT, I will say. Let's hope, not hot enough to cause thermal runaway and venting of your battery I guess that remains to be seen.
Anna
I have batteries similar to those in your picture - however, mine are the LG HB6 - 1600mAh (if memory serves me correctly) and yes, they don't take long to charge at all (as their mAh - milliamp hour - rating is so low). As for the other posters, they have a point my dude, don't buy .... off ebay. Especially batteries. Everything else, buy with caution. If you needed battery sites to buy excellent goods from, look up liion wholesale or imr batteries. I buy exclusively from them. As even my B&M's can be shady when it comes to authentic batteries. Another good source for batteries - and I do hate to say it sometimes... pegasus vapor academy. Although the batteries are rewraps, they have a comprehensive chart that tells you exactly what you should be using your batteries for. They also (from my understanding) are using exact specs - not some over-hyped, over-rated, or over-inflated specs that you may find on other rewraps.
I also have to agree with the other posters, don't go over the CDR of ANY battery... EVER!
I say this a billion times, I'll say it a billion more and here's why:
It may not happen right away, but it will eventually happen and when it does, you will either A. Hurt yourself, B. Hurt someone else, C. Damage / destroy your device or atomizer, or D. All of the above. I witnessed a friend vent his battery a couple weeks ago and let me tell you, it wasn't intentional. The battery had already been worn to the point of unusable - I think he said it was a year and a half old. Wrap was fine, insulator was fine, it's just the battery was old and should have been tossed. The load was ever so lightly below CDR (measured out at .12 of what that battery was able to put out (30A). It first started off as a hot switch (the firing button gets hot when activated), so we checked it, found no clippings in the switch, found nothing unusual, no hard shorts, nothing. So we put the atty back on the device, then the device itself started getting warm, and then we heard it - it started venting. We set the device on the ground and let the battery finish killing itself. The mod was way too hot to touch and it was shot.
Had it not vented properly, gotten hot enough, or had the can (the shiny silver part beneath the wrap) failed, the battery could have failed, exploded, or caught something on fire. You just never know when it's your turn.
Last edited:
Also - it never hurts to have batteries that are rated well above what you PLAN on putting on your mech my man. A 30Amp battery may not give you the RUN time that you need or WANT. But it sure as hell gives you a fighting chance and enough headroom to "tinker". 25-30Amp cells is all I usually run. I have a few LG HG2's laying around the house that we use frequently in our regulated mods, however, we run those in our big mods and usually don't build below .3 - .4 ohms (mainly because we use our tanks with them). And if you've ever hit a tank at a high wattage you'll soon know why. The heat man, the heat is unbearable.
It also doesn't hurt to invest in a coiling kit - a Coil Master, or some other coiling kit that has some jigs or something in it, and I will be a plug for a moment, some TEMCo wire. Buy it by the pounds. Various gauges. 30, 28, 26, and 24. Yeah, it's expensive, but that will also give you some time to figure it out. IF you get a coil master kit you get an ohm reader and it has a switch that allows you to pulse your coils before you slap it on your mod.
It also doesn't hurt to invest in a coiling kit - a Coil Master, or some other coiling kit that has some jigs or something in it, and I will be a plug for a moment, some TEMCo wire. Buy it by the pounds. Various gauges. 30, 28, 26, and 24. Yeah, it's expensive, but that will also give you some time to figure it out. IF you get a coil master kit you get an ohm reader and it has a switch that allows you to pulse your coils before you slap it on your mod.
Last edited:
And I recorded a video for the OP. PLEASE take the time to read the description and don't hesitate to ask further questions.
Forgive my stumbling about in this video too, a little congestion and I couldn't get my mind focused.
Forgive my stumbling about in this video too, a little congestion and I couldn't get my mind focused.
Last edited:
i just wanted to update everyone as i am still waiting on a few piece of equipment so i can start making my coil builds. i have also purchased few new addy LOL kayfun 5 and a kayfun lite 2019 from intase.de should have everything in a week or so.
@CasketWeaver thank you so much for the video completely appreciative of the time you took to make it.
@CasketWeaver thank you so much for the video completely appreciative of the time you took to make it.
Some of the USA's largest "authorized" Samsung resellers have eBay stores. It's not very difficult to quickly tell who is selling authentic gear based on feedback. It's getting to be like some old fable that keeps being passed along and was never true. I buy boatloads of batteries and vape gear from eBay, all have been 100% authentic and all have been priced very competitively.
because you know where to buy from doesn't mean others do to mate
You are missing the point. This is a general rule, and a very good one. Not all sellers are bad, but a lot are. So just save yourself the grief and spend the extra few £££ and stay safe. Nothing wrong with that advice.
Lotta good stuff on here.
Here's an Ould Man's tale who came from different days however, though he did the CB Radio thing where you had to build your own rig a bit to tweek it, and whose best pal was a HAM and who taught his subject at Evening Classes in the local college.
This Ould Man, in his day ran a District as Manager, and his thing was "Round here we do simple things and we get results!"
Lotta the stuff posted here'd put me off the whole damn thing when I strarted off, even though it's posted with the best of intentions... and credit to all who posted it!
Righto, you fancy a Mech Mod. Great good, so do I - I love the damn things for their simplicity, and you want a good 'un and you want to go down Mech Road...
You don't at the first stage buy a Hybrid and you look for something safe, idealy a kit, like say, the Vaping Outlaws Enforcer.... and you build a simple coil to 1 Ohm on 28 Kathal ( round about 5 -6 turns on a 2mm crochet hook or Mandrel ), you check it out on some kinda checker like either your Regulated Mod or you buy an Ohm Tester to do the same thing, you wick it just so, so that the cotton just slides back and forth throught the coil easily, you check your leg ends ain't short circuiting and you have clipped them off just right, you prime your coil and wick with loadsa juice, bang on the attie's cap and fire up.
Bingo - that's it and all. You stick with that for a while; you maybe experiment with your wicks - are they just fine touching the juice well or are they better filling it etc... and then and only then do you look at ra Fancy Coils, sub ohming minor or mega, once you have done your research via what has been already posted.
Now I don'rt expect anyone/ everyone on here'll agree with this... but that's the way we rocked way back then.... and it worked, so much so that some of us - OK maybe only me - stuck with that simple system as we travelled round the sorld.
Here's an Ould Man's tale who came from different days however, though he did the CB Radio thing where you had to build your own rig a bit to tweek it, and whose best pal was a HAM and who taught his subject at Evening Classes in the local college.
This Ould Man, in his day ran a District as Manager, and his thing was "Round here we do simple things and we get results!"
Lotta the stuff posted here'd put me off the whole damn thing when I strarted off, even though it's posted with the best of intentions... and credit to all who posted it!
Righto, you fancy a Mech Mod. Great good, so do I - I love the damn things for their simplicity, and you want a good 'un and you want to go down Mech Road...
You don't at the first stage buy a Hybrid and you look for something safe, idealy a kit, like say, the Vaping Outlaws Enforcer.... and you build a simple coil to 1 Ohm on 28 Kathal ( round about 5 -6 turns on a 2mm crochet hook or Mandrel ), you check it out on some kinda checker like either your Regulated Mod or you buy an Ohm Tester to do the same thing, you wick it just so, so that the cotton just slides back and forth throught the coil easily, you check your leg ends ain't short circuiting and you have clipped them off just right, you prime your coil and wick with loadsa juice, bang on the attie's cap and fire up.
Bingo - that's it and all. You stick with that for a while; you maybe experiment with your wicks - are they just fine touching the juice well or are they better filling it etc... and then and only then do you look at ra Fancy Coils, sub ohming minor or mega, once you have done your research via what has been already posted.
Now I don'rt expect anyone/ everyone on here'll agree with this... but that's the way we rocked way back then.... and it worked, so much so that some of us - OK maybe only me - stuck with that simple system as we travelled round the sorld.
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
