Saving up for an RTA

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Myk

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LOL... ask the ECF community what time it is and we commence with instructions on how to build a clock.

And sooner or later, the discussion turns to what the best kind of clock the newbie needs to build.

:D

A lot of the problem is ask anyone anywhere "what should I buy" and the answer is "whatever I like". Some of that is because our individual experience (some is ego). (Hey, RTA was asked, you answered rda. Then I'd have to add TC squonker because I hate dripping.)

I can't fall back to best noob build today experience. That's why I had the part about "yous kids today". Really it's all easy today. buy what you want, watch a video.
 

levivapes

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And you won't have to save up much for this one:

Yun 25mm RDA by EHPRO

It's 25mm outside diameter, so it won't go on a Pico or other space-limited mods.

Even though it's a dripper, it has a build deck that's very similar to a large percentage of those found in RTAs. Airflow hits the bottom of the coil and mounting is easy peasy.

I have three of them and use one of them all day every day.

Four bucks plus shipping.
Dang, I might just be starting on an RDA then.
 

hell_storm2004

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I am also new guy on the self building stuff. I got a Vandy Vape Kylin Postless. I read that it is easier to build as it has a little bit more room to work with. Although i cannot guarantee it. As I have not tried other types. Heck, i dont even know how many other types are out there. I only say, dive into the pond, you will learn how to swim!

$32 just for the RTA. But the other stuff (wires, cotton, coil jig, a ohm meter maybe), it can add up.

RTA's are not that expensive. Its the shipping cost that is is a killer! :mad:

If it just for experience. You can get some decent ones from the clearance section from a website. I got me a GeekVape Ammit RTA just to play with for 15 bucks. Have no idea how good that is. Just sorted from price low to high and it was the 3rd one there! :pervy:
 

r055co

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Reload is a great RTA, I have / did use one for a very long time but you still get juice seepage collect in the bottom and if you let the tank stand for a few days, it will leak but that goes for all bottom airflow tanks. The Engine 2 won't, I just absolutely love that tank. It has replaced my Reload, my Aromamizer Plus and even my Kensei and Bravo. The list goes on but I would be doing the OP an injustice if I didn't at least throw the idea out there..
I've got 5 of them (yes I love this RTA) the only issue I've had is with weeping which you really can't do anything about. As for leaking mine have only leaked a couple times and this was due to user error. Other than that I haven't had an issue, I might have to try the Engine 2. But damn, I've got so many atty's I've literally lost count and have a few I've had for a while that I haven't even gotten around to trying out yet ......
 

mimöschen

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I love my Reload for flavor and it is quite forgiving too, but postless decks aren't the best choice for beginners imo. And it's pricey if you don't want a clone.
I'd rather suggest something along the lines of the OBS Crius 2, Asmodus Zesthia, Vapefly Horus, EHPro Bachelor X, Digiflavor Pharaoh Mini or Kaees Solomon 2.
 
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Anise

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Besides it's so very liberating to not be dependent on factory made coils, especially what you build is so much better.

Oh another thing, don't skip on wire. Top quality real Sandvik wire from sources like Kidney Puncher or Atomizer Wick makes a large difference over cheap Chinese crap wire. Example top quality wire from KP is under $5 for 30 feet which for basic coils will last well over a year, why waste money on crap wire?
I know everyone has their favorite gauge but for a beginner what would be the best gauge wire to get? I've got the RBA's for my smok tanks and my Kanger toptank Minis and I also bought quite a few things on sale. Most of my tanks are sub ohm and some of the newer ones are drip. I have no clue what gauge I should be aiming for or what ohm. I would really appreciate some advice since I've got almost everything else except the wire.
 
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Anise

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I'd get some 28g and maybe some 26g in addition to that.
If you use a regulated device the Ohm are not relevant.
Thanks for the advice. Just got bday money and even good quality wire isn't really expensive so I can get a few different gages.
 

Myk

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Thanks for the advice. Just got bday money and even good quality wire isn't really expensive so I can get a few different gages.

That's the way to do it. Small spools/cards of multiple gauges. I would figure 26ga will be what you end up liking so 28ga, 26ga and 24ga.
With what fits into a SubTank (I use 3"-4") you should be able to easily have a wide range from .5Ω-1.8Ω with those.
 

Anise

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That's the way to do it. Small spools/cards of multiple gauges. I would figure 26ga will be what you end up liking so 28ga, 26ga and 24ga.
With what fits into a SubTank (I use 3"-4") you should be able to easily have a wide range from .5Ω-1.8Ω with those.
Coolness. I'm so glad I came out of lurkdom and started posting. I can't wait till everything arrives and I can get started building. Gotta order the wire soon. My friend's husband is pushing me to get 20 gauge. I'm assuming he's wrong.
Thanks again for all the help everyone. Y'all are a great group. Some are a little strange sometimes but that only makes things interesting.
 

untar

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friend's husband is pushing me to get 20 gauge. I'm assuming he's wrong.
It's easy to add mass with 26g and 28g wire, it's near impossible to remove mass with 20g wire. So yeah, totally the wrong call for a build newbie. The only build you can do with that wire is high power cloudz bruh, with the others you have far more options. If you absolutely want thicker you can twist two 26g wires together to make twisted wire, more surface than the 20g but lower mass and less waste of energy.

Maybe If you need new spokes in your bike wheel then order the 20g :lol:
 

Anise

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It's easy to add mass with 26g and 28g wire, it's near impossible to remove mass with 20g wire. So yeah, totally the wrong call for a build newbie. The only build you can do with that wire is high power cloudz bruh, with the others you have far more options. If you absolutely want thicker you can twist two 26g wires together to make twisted wire, more surface than the 20g but lower mass and less waste of energy.

Maybe If you need new spokes in your bike wheel then order the 20g :lol:

He's a cloud chaser and I'm not. At least not to his level. I can't get him to understand that so I don't talk coils to him anymore. Thanks. And I don't have a bike ;)
 

Myk

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Coolness. I'm so glad I came out of lurkdom and started posting. I can't wait till everything arrives and I can get started building. Gotta order the wire soon. My friend's husband is pushing me to get 20 gauge. I'm assuming he's wrong.
Thanks again for all the help everyone. Y'all are a great group. Some are a little strange sometimes but that only makes things interesting.

Pushing you to get? Tell him to give you a foot! A foot of everything he has for that matter.
If you were here I'd give you 26ga, 28ga, 30ga, ribbon and some clapton. And some stainless, titanium and NI200 if you wanted.

If you liked the ramp up of 24ga and wanted more of it I would probably say try claptons or start twisting. It's tight but I do have a clapton (probably 26ga wrapped with 30ga-34ga) in a SubTank at .9Ω.
 

Myk

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Kanthal is fine, if you want to try TC in the near future SS would be better since it works in both TC and power mode.

Stainless in power depends. If you don't do a lot of consecutive puffs or the mod locks the resistance it's fine. Quick consecutive puffs where the mod is going on the reading at the button push can get pretty hot.
 
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