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perlionsmitnick

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I made one with an old drill bit and a bolt. Drill out the bolt to the size of the drill bit and grind your bit 60 degrees and cut off and insert into the hole you drilled into bolt. Of course I had a bit holder that was a weird clampdown type that the bolt would fit in. Additionally you could cut a piece of hardened stock like this.
ptsI5.jpg


Well you get the idea.

I suck with Gimp
 
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Gummy Bear

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nice bits guys i need to make one i got several boring bars but they are too big for what i need... and what shape would i grind the bit for making oring groves? square like a cutoff tool or pointed and reset it for cutting each end of the grove?
and ty :)

I'm no mechanist but I ground mine 1/2 round like the O ring.
 

urquidezj

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The Integrated SGV3 PV is now the ZVCGPV-1 (Zen Vertical Coil Genesis PV)

I decided to try a single sided wick without the curve in this new PV. It works exceptionally well and wicks fine with SS400 and 30% VG juice. The negative screw is threaded right into the head, and the positive connection is a CE2 center post on top of a 12ga copper rod. I poked a small nail from the SGV3 co-op into the carto center tube for the positive connector. 2.1 ohm Kanthal 32 coil.

ZVCG1.JPG


ZVCG2.JPG


ZVCG3.JPG




Dam we where in the same frame of mind lol, well almost.

IMAG0134.jpg
 
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UA72Riddle

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Mini Scuba is up and running...

uploadfromtaptalk1318044169280.jpg

Tank has been cut down to 3/4". Used a SS roll pin to stiffen, then 96/4 silver solder to seal the seam. Working perfectly, holds around 8ml of liquid, and shortened the wick to 3". Goes great with the rest of my Genisis atty family.....

uploadfromtaptalk1318044506117.jpg

Kick Bass Vapor.....let them LURE you in...
www.kickbassvapor.com
 

Scubabatdan

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LOL well this sucks.... I made a 60 degree threading bit for the inside, but I when I did it I was not thinking and drew the threads out instead of in which.... wait for it, created left handed threads. I did all the pieces this way and was going to chase them with my tap and die that are comming in so they were not "Finished" That is when I discoved that they were lefty. Since they would not go together LOL and then I really looked at the threads and follwed the path and thats when I went AHHHH CRAP.
Sooooooo looks like I will be remaking all the pieces Again :( Ahh well another chance for excellance.
More to follow!
Dan
 

Scubabatdan

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crap Oh! Been that kinda night here too. I patiently sanded my nickel plated brass switch so that I could have a brass one to match something else. The outer ring went beautifully, so I started working on the actuator itself and struck genuine PLASTIC. Guess I shoulda known. :facepalm:

LOL, well this was my first attempt at using the lathe to cut the threads, never done it before. Always used the tap and die to do it. I can see the advantage of using the lathe. Closer thread depth wereas a tap does not go all the way in even with a plug tap.
Dan
 

Zen~

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LOL well this sucks.... I made a 60 degree threading bit for the inside, but I when I did it I was not thinking and drew the threads out instead of in which.... wait for it, created left handed threads. I did all the pieces this way and was going to chase them with my tap and die that are comming in so they were not "Finished" That is when I discoved that they were lefty. Since they would not go together LOL and then I really looked at the threads and follwed the path and thats when I went AHHHH CRAP.
Sooooooo looks like I will be remaking all the pieces Again :( Ahh well another chance for excellance.
More to follow!
Dan

I did exactly the same thing the first time I used a lathe to cut threads! The bit needs to move into the work... Just like a bolt goes into a nut... Makes perfect sense, though it seems so counter intuitive at first.

It sucks that you had to start over, but threading takes a little practice anyway, so you're logging hours which is a good thing.
 

perlionsmitnick

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LOL well this sucks.... I made a 60 degree threading bit for the inside, but I when I did it I was not thinking and drew the threads out instead of in which.... wait for it, created left handed threads. I did all the pieces this way and was going to chase them with my tap and die that are comming in so they were not "Finished" That is when I discoved that they were lefty. Since they would not go together LOL and then I really looked at the threads and follwed the path and thats when I went AHHHH CRAP.
Sooooooo looks like I will be remaking all the pieces Again :( Ahh well another chance for excellance.
More to follow!


Dan

Edit: What ^ he said.

I had it bassackwards too. It's probably best to practice on a test piece a few times. Tolerances are critical. I cut too much off of my male section and resulted in a sloppy fit. Threading is a ......
 
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Zen~

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I had to think that one through too. Use a left handed bit like Zen posted and start inside of the piece and draw out the bit running in the CCW direction.

That will make LH threads... The lathe going CCW with the bit pushing into the part will make RH threads... Like I said...it's counter intuitive
 

Scubabatdan

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That will make LH threads... The lathe going CCW with the bit pushing into the part will make RH threads... Like I said...it's counter intuitive

Yes but if I am doing 32tpi into a shallow hole with and end, and only cutting .25" of threads I do not want to go in. So I put the lathe in reverse and cut the next piece on the back side going out. Nothing to hit going out :) So CW direction going out on the far side does RH. :)

Shaft is .625, hole is .591 thread depth .017, .017 x 2 = .034, .034 + .591 = .625

I think I got it LOL
Dan

Added, the next pieces for the prototype will be aluminum, cuts faster! LOL
Dan
 
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Zen~

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Yes but if I am doing 32tpi into a shallow hole with and end, and only cutting .25" of threads I do not want to go in. So I put the lathe in reverse and cut the next piece on the back side going out. Nothing to hit going out :) So CW direction going out on the far side does RH. :)

Shaft is .625, hole is .591 thread depth .017, .017 x 2 = .034, .034 + .591 = .625

I think I got it LOL
Dan

Added, the next pieces for the prototype will be aluminum, cuts faster! LOL
Dan

Yep, that will work, slow the lathe down too...
 

lorderos33

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LOL, well this was my first attempt at using the lathe to cut the threads, never done it before. Always used the tap and die to do it. I can see the advantage of using the lathe. Closer thread depth wereas a tap does not go all the way in even with a plug tap.
Dan

It's nice, but takes some patience. You have to make many passes and test fits for the first piece but then after that you can just swap part and repeat for runs ;) If you take very light cuts for the last few then you really don't need taps and dies to finish them either from what I understand.

It also helps to count the number of turns going into the piece on inside threads so you can stop in the same spot every time without having to guess.
 
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