Dan, an internal threading bit is pretty easy to make if you have some tool steel around...
Great tutorial... Thanks
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Dan, an internal threading bit is pretty easy to make if you have some tool steel around...
nice bits guys i need to make one i got several boring bars but they are too big for what i need... and what shape would i grind the bit for making oring groves? square like a cutoff tool or pointed and reset it for cutting each end of the grove?
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The Integrated SGV3 PV is now the ZVCGPV-1 (Zen Vertical Coil Genesis PV)
I decided to try a single sided wick without the curve in this new PV. It works exceptionally well and wicks fine with SS400 and 30% VG juice. The negative screw is threaded right into the head, and the positive connection is a CE2 center post on top of a 12ga copper rod. I poked a small nail from the SGV3 co-op into the carto center tube for the positive connector. 2.1 ohm Kanthal 32 coil.
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crap Oh! Been that kinda night here too. I patiently sanded my nickel plated brass switch so that I could have a brass one to match something else. The outer ring went beautifully, so I started working on the actuator itself and struck genuine PLASTIC. Guess I shoulda known.![]()
LOL well this sucks.... I made a 60 degree threading bit for the inside, but I when I did it I was not thinking and drew the threads out instead of in which.... wait for it, created left handed threads. I did all the pieces this way and was going to chase them with my tap and die that are comming in so they were not "Finished" That is when I discoved that they were lefty. Since they would not go together LOL and then I really looked at the threads and follwed the path and thats when I went AHHHH CRAP.
Sooooooo looks like I will be remaking all the pieces AgainAhh well another chance for excellance.
More to follow!
Dan
LOL well this sucks.... I made a 60 degree threading bit for the inside, but I when I did it I was not thinking and drew the threads out instead of in which.... wait for it, created left handed threads. I did all the pieces this way and was going to chase them with my tap and die that are comming in so they were not "Finished" That is when I discoved that they were lefty. Since they would not go together LOL and then I really looked at the threads and follwed the path and thats when I went AHHHH CRAP.
Sooooooo looks like I will be remaking all the pieces AgainAhh well another chance for excellance.
More to follow!
Dan
I had to think that one through too. Use a left handed bit like Zen posted and start inside of the piece and draw out the bit running in the CCW direction.
That will make LH threads... The lathe going CCW with the bit pushing into the part will make RH threads... Like I said...it's counter intuitive
Yes but if I am doing 32tpi into a shallow hole with and end, and only cutting .25" of threads I do not want to go in. So I put the lathe in reverse and cut the next piece on the back side going out. Nothing to hit going outSo CW direction going out on the far side does RH.
Shaft is .625, hole is .591 thread depth .017, .017 x 2 = .034, .034 + .591 = .625
I think I got it LOL
Dan
Added, the next pieces for the prototype will be aluminum, cuts faster! LOL
Dan
LOL, well this was my first attempt at using the lathe to cut the threads, never done it before. Always used the tap and die to do it. I can see the advantage of using the lathe. Closer thread depth wereas a tap does not go all the way in even with a plug tap.
Dan