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asdaq

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poland, and the brassy lands of google
Thanks for the tip on the mesh it works badass I did a test piece to see what would happen, I oxydized with a normal lighter, four times, added some juice, lit it three times. Wrapped five times I think still don't get that. If I dry burn coil lights up, I add juice to it and it will start to throw vape but it kinda pops, and then the corners of the wires that attach to the posts glow. Is that a short? It did cut off twice bit I poked at the wire with a tooth pic and it stopped cutting off the battery. Here are pics and a short vid if it works

IMAG0132.jpg


IMAG0133.jpg


http://static.photobucket.com/playe...ucket.com/albums/f337/urquidezj/VIDEO0007.mp4

You really aren't that far, but should add the tank and fill it up. I don't think it is shorting, but rather going dry and that spot is where the heat has the best chance of accumulating and starting to glow. As you have it there, you are wicking away from your coil.
 

urquidezj

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You really aren't that far, but should add the tank and fill it up. I don't think it is shorting, but rather going dry and that spot is where the heat has the best chance of accumulating and starting to glow. As you have it there, you are wicking away from your coil.

I will put all together tomorrow, the o rings are too fat, need to get other ones, and I need to make a better insulation for the wick going through the body, is that even necessary? I need to make a shorter batt tube mod, this thing is huge! Lol
 

UA72Riddle

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I will put all together tomorrow, the o rings are too fat, need to get other ones, and I need to make a better insulation for the wick going through the body, is that even necessary? I need to make a shorter batt tube mod, this thing is huge! Lol

that's exactly why I did this.....
 

ScroungerLee

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Dan, for a second that first pic looks like the parts are sitting on your finger.
Ok here is what I did today :)

Got my 1/2 brass stock in so I was working on eliminating the S wire for the G-Tank-US, also got the brass 0-80 push inserts in, and they work awesome! Well here are some pics.
View attachment 56656
Only one more part to make, and some threading and it is ready to go
Here is the combustion section pieces
View attachment 56655
Assembled
View attachment 56653
Notice the pos screw is inserted (threaded into a nylon 6-32 plastic screw) and then is threaded into the brass positive centerpost. By threading it through the plasic screw I can stop juice from leaking down into the electrical section.
View attachment 56654
This will solve the S wire issue and make the pos side 100% effective. A thin nylon washer above and below the brass piece will isolate it from the main body.

I think this is good design for electical continuity that can be taken apart for cleaning if needed with just a screw driver.
Dan

Added:
Ok got the T-Tank adapter made...
View attachment 56663
Dan
 

harmonic

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yea that will prolly do the trick. i couldn't get on any of the other forums using my regular email. for some reason none of their mail ever got through. i had to create a 'disposable' address with a different ending for it to work... also the new address is a .com where the original is a .net idk if that makes any difference or not
 
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