Share your wick and coil setups for your Reo!

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BuzzKilla

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ERA on Kicked woodvill
30 AWG w/ 6 wraps @ 2.1ohms
500 SS mesh tightly wrapped

ERA_zps18b9d8ff.jpg

ERA1_zps150bfbe0.jpg


fog machine that hits like a train!

*sorry for the large images, i'm too lazy to re-size them :oops:
 

nerak

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ERA on Kicked woodvill
30 AWG w/ 6 wraps @ 2.1ohms
500 SS mesh tightly wrapped

ERA_zps18b9d8ff.jpg

ERA1_zps150bfbe0.jpg


fog machine that hits like a train!

*sorry for the large images, i'm too lazy to re-size them :oops:

Thank you for the large pics. It really makes it so easy to see.
 
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BuzzKilla

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its in the post with the pics ;)
500 Stainless steel mesh, rolled solid.
once i went to SS wicks, i really didn't want to go back. no matter what the atty. lol

with proper torching method, i get no shorts...
it is hard to see, but the wick is coiled around the positive post,then wedged between the positive and negative. To avoid juice puddling, i may re do it, to increase the wick length.
STILL NO SHORTS! :2cool:
 
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BuzzKilla

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Getting SS, to NOT short out, can get frustrating. Only practice will help you oxidise mesh right the first time.

a few helpful tips

when rolling the SS mesh, make sure the weave is at a 45 degree angle, it makes it easier to bend the wick without getting kinks.
Also I would use a mod with short protection, to avoid replacing hot springs. Always be safe!
I just use the Kick, in case anyone is wondering.

when you're done, post up some pics!

Since when were short mandatory! :rules:
 

FeistyAlice

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I am ashamed to admit it after being such an advocate for cotton wicks but I have actually gone back to silica on a couple of my REO's. I have some tobacco based juices that do not taste right on anything else. Just don't tell JCOkie, K?

I'm back to using only silica, for now. My juice makes it mandatory to replace natural wicking at least once a day. And coil needs to be dryburned almost daily but I can sometimes get a 1.5 days. With virtually all pre-mades I can only get 2-3 days before they need cleaning and dryburning.

I have 400 SS mesh but haven't used it yet. Need to make time for that. And I'm waiting to see Dan Patricks results using the ceramic wicking (not the air bubbler cylinder).

Do you do the bending prior to torching (tempering)?

Feisty Alice
 

FeistyAlice

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I've stumbled upon something that may be a reason people sometimes just "can't get it right." This particular was a first for me. In the wee hours of Sunday morning I put together a coil/silica wick for ERA. I grabbed a little baggie of silica wick, I think 2.5mm that had some 32 ga Kanthal in with it. First I like 30 ga much better. Easier to handle and much tougher. And easier to not wind wire too tightly around wick.

So when working with it I noticed it seemed stiffer than what I've been using. I left about an inch on up side to go down into base as I do with all others for ERA and Hornet. Have to have short stub on down side of coil because of space limitations.

So I just wasn't getting enough vapor and, believe it or not, the vape was too airy!!!! I like a stiff draw. Many people drill out the holes on ERA and Hornet but they are perfect for my vape style. Tested ohm was 1.23 so plenty hot.

When I first put cap on after building I tried to poke the extra wick down into base but it kept springing back up. I cannot make it stay down. So it's not juicing well.

Solution for now, until I rebuild, is to squonk and then invert the whole thing and roll around so juice can get to the wick. That's much more hassle than I want so building a new wick coil in a few minutes. AFTER COFFEE

Feisty Alice

So some people may be doing everything right but they have springy wick that won't lay down in order to wick properly.
 
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hildicat

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