Duh! (Pass the coffee please) yes, you can put a wrap on and the the sleeve will still fit. Sorry about that. Having a hard time braining today.
Sigelei 150w Box Mod
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Duh! (Pass the coffee please) yes, you can put a wrap on and the the sleeve will still fit. Sorry about that. Having a hard time braining today.
I have my Sig-150 for over a week now its holding up great. And to come from a lower end mod to this its quite notice able. I running just with a Aspire atm and waiting on my rda. Correct me if im wrong is this normal. With the Asipre running the 0.5 coil my Sig it is reading 0.6 ohm. So its really reading .1 higher then it suppose to. Maybe someone can chime on this. How is your Sig reading? Thanks in advance.
I have since replaced the unit with an IPV3 purchased locally. My issue was time and I paid for expedited shipping to reflect that. I had purchased the unit to replace a failing CANA30 and I didn't have time to deal with warrantying the unit through sigelei. I was HOPING 101vape would step up to the plate and overnight me a new mod, or at lest get me USPS tracking on a replacement once I had the broken one in the mail. But no, I was ignored once they knew the old unit was being shipped back.
The resistance on the coils in in the .5 ohm range, I don't belive the SIG150 can read down to .01, so I think it's rounding up.
I have the first version sigelei 100w and a new sig 150w. I am a little annoyed with the spring loaded pin, I cannot stand tightening down my attys only to have the airholes pointed in some crazy direction. Wish they would have just left it as an adjustable pin.
Just got a Sig 150w Oni edition a few days ago and am enjoying it.For the price at $109 being a limited edition for Vapor Range I couldn't pass it up.
I also have an IPV3, which is actually my third one having had to sell my two previous IPV3's due to financial needs. Having both now I can appreciate that each has there plus and minuses compared to the other.
I like them both just as much, and am glad Sig changed to a spring loaded 510. The manually adjusting 510 was one factor that turned me away from the sig 100w.
![C360_2015-01-31-21-58-03-967[1].jpg](https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/data/attachments/254/254784-4c173fd6b01bcda395729cc96f5c19a8.jpg "C360_2015-01-31-21-58-03-967[1].jpg")
I also have an IPV3, which is actually my third one having had to sell my two previous IPV3's due to financial needs. Having both now I can appreciate that each has there plus and minuses compared to the other.
I like them both just as much, and am glad Sig changed to a spring loaded 510. The manually adjusting 510 was one factor that turned me away from the sig 100w.
I can see your point, but that hasn't bothered me much. I would rather just tilt a little, then to constantly be messing around with the adjustable pin.
I finally caved on getting a large dual battery mod after getting annoyed swapping batteries on my ipv2x 2-3 times a day, so enter SIGELEI 150W.
Even though it isn't as feature rich as the ipv3 I went with this mainly because of the magnet door.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Even though it isn't as feature rich as the ipv3 I went with this mainly because of the magnet door.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
I've had mine a month now, no complaints. Although, I've noticed the top around the 510 connector getting scratched up from atties being screwed down flush. Might look into a fat daddy style 510 connector with a dish around it to replace stock connector. Been vaping an Atlantis and a few pulls off a .3 ohm plume veil, haven't changed batts since last night (25Rs) and still at 90% juice (batt juice that is) oops...88% now. Won't ever use the full 150w, but the diff in price for a 100 or 150, you'd be mental to not go for it, just in case.
Couple quick battery questions maybe somebody can help me with. This is my first dual 18650 mod, I was told to marry the batteries, and rotate the order, so I get that.
Should I also rotate my batteries around 50% battery life?
At what point should I take them out to charge?
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Should I also rotate my batteries around 50% battery life?
At what point should I take them out to charge?
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
The mod will tell you when to charge batteries and no longer fire when they get to 3.4v
It is recommended to rotate the batteries after each charge because it is possible for the device to not evenly discharge them.
I've checked mine many times and they always come out of my ipv3 and Sig 150w at the same voltage drop so I don't worry to much about making sure I rotate them.
It is recommended to rotate the batteries after each charge because it is possible for the device to not evenly discharge them.
I've checked mine many times and they always come out of my ipv3 and Sig 150w at the same voltage drop so I don't worry to much about making sure I rotate them.
I change mine everyday, unless I'm pushing it and get the batts under 50%. Batts have a certain # of charging cycles. If you only use 10% of the batts each day and recharge them everyday, it's 10 days to go thru a complete charge cycle..meaning they last longer
I just got a sigelei 150 in the mail and I'm having an issue with it reading my atomizer. I have a plume veil clone that works fine on my mech mod and reads on my ohm reader fine but when I put it on the sig it just reads check atomizer. I've adjusted the 510 connection on the plume, cleaned the firing pin, cleaned the threads and done just about everything I can think of to get it to work. Anyone else have this issue? This is my first box mod so I feel kind of lost.
OR, your resistance is too low. I believe it will fire down to .15. I'm running .2, but had a .16 on it last week with no issues.
+1
I had same issue day before yesterday with my veil clone. Screw it down til it bottoms out on the top of the box. Around 510 connector on mine is torn up already from atlantis's n rda's. Soon as it's out of warranty I'll be putting a fat daddy's 510 conn on it, only, NOT following his sowldering instructions on youtube..... (If you know anything about electronics, and soldering, I highly recommend watching the vid and commenting to let him know how much of a fail it is. If you don't know anything about electronics and soldering, watch, and take note to NEVER do what he says to do). Only gripe I have with my sig is the fact there's no "landing pad" for attys to hit on around the connector.
That and you can't lock out the adjustment buttons to keep from inadvertently cranking it up to 150w in my pocket and frying lungs mouth and coils that one time you don't look at the screen before taking a drag lol
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Well, if you're throwing it in your pocket you should be locking the mod. When it's locked it won't change wattage.
That was the first thing I checked, it is definitely connecting with the pin I can feel it pushing down the spring. I even adjusted the 510 on the plume out to make a better connection and still nothing.
I thought about this too but afaik it has a different code for the resistance being too low. Regardless I rebuilt my rda to .5 and it still wouldn't read it.
I have had my Sig 100+ for a week now and here are the weaknesses I see. 1. The already mentioned top scratching from screwing down an atty. 2. The firing button; I sure wish it was less of a cheap clicky type and more like a high quality soft touch you get on a Silver Bullet mod. The SB has the best button out there I have felt. I just don't see the Sig's button lasting in the long run. (since they seen to be the same size maybe later I will install a SB button into the Sig, if it's not too much of a problem.)
3. I wish it had a dedicated recessed power button instead of the 5 clicks to on or off.
Those are all just nit picky stuff and I am glad I got it as my first regulated mod.
3. I wish it had a dedicated recessed power button instead of the 5 clicks to on or off.
Those are all just nit picky stuff and I am glad I got it as my first regulated mod.
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