Variable wattage is easy enough tool for everyone to use and its good for really pinpointing the vape you want. It's an easy number that you don't need numbers for. But it's taken away from the useful information and I have seen reviewers make the same mistake you have in terms of temp.
On one coil going up and down on wattage will mean a hotter or colder vape. But if I am using a 1.8 ohm nautilus or a .9 cCell or a .4 Herk + coil. 40 watts means different things. It would be molten lava hot on the Nautilus hot and destroy the coil. The .9 cCell would be towards the upper limit of the coil, but in the end it's generally a cooler but drier vape. The Herk + .4 hasn't even really warmed up at that point and it means lag before its really vapeable and at full airflow its very very cool. In actuality for the most part from coil to coil its the voltage it's running at that determines the temp, along with wicking and air flow. Now the type of coil and the atty can change this rule of thumb but it pretty much seems to hold true. Now variable air flow changes this as well because some people like an easy draw and like to take big hits, that vape is going to be cooler than someone taking the same air flow and just doing a normal pull. Which is going to be cooler than someone taking the same setting, closing the air flow and taking a normal pull.
But my other point is that Wattage gives you great small adjustments on your vaping experience from coil to coil. But it does nothing for safety. Most devices won't tell you what your amp draw is at all which is probably the most important for battery life and knowing if you are stressing your batteries. Your voltage of not only your hit but of the battery itself is another. I have a Sig TC150. I don't know if one of my batteries is sagging worse than another or if one is unbalanced. All I know is the voltage that I set when I set the wattage based on the resistance. In case of the sig 213 we have a live feed of three major systems, amperage drain, voltage usage, and current live battery voltage. To me those are way more important from a safety level then dropping one of them for a live feed of the actual wattage. Maybe this is the cost of selling it as a monster wattage device, people want to see it hit the 213 and they can't tell.
I will say I don't know if the device can actually hit 213. I have a .27 build and have used HB6 and VTC5 batteries. Both seem legit. Now I expect to get a drain issue on the VTC5's though they should be able to hit 30a or more for the 1.7 seconds I tested with the preheat. But both that and the HB6's seem to not get past 24a which makes me think its lock is actually at 25a and not the 35a it's advertised. Which without the numbers to back it up seems more like a 150w device than a 213. Now like some of the other problems of this device, the F based TCR (which honestly I don't see it as a problem, just their lack of notification or guidelines until people complained as the problem). The screen garbled I haven't run into it and honestly my tendency has always been to "wake" the device up before going into menu's. The Sleep missfires just never fit within my vape habits, if I am doing a couple hits, I do them in semi quick interval's (less than 5 seconds in between hits) or it might be several minutes in between usages. Lame fires only happen to me when I am at below a 20% and its usually because of how high my preset is (120w 1.7 seconds). This makes me think that someone else experiencing it might seeing bad battery sag if they have that problem it stops hitting at 60%. Don't know the batteries that person was using but something doesn't seem right, like a counterfeit or a just bad batteries from a re-wrapper. If this doesn't hit 213 it doesn't really affect me. I have a coil that could hit that, but its not enjoyable. I doubt I have the lung capacity, draw capability, and atty with enough air flow to enjoy a 200w+ vape.
Point being that while I wouldn't actually recommend it unless someone wants a device exactly like this that does what this guy does well and won't be impacted by as I put it quirks. Even if its a device that works well for me, that doesn't make it a good device. But I still might get another one and maybe a couple Fuchias later on. I don't think I want to get another side battery loading device again. But now I can wait out the IPV6 and see what that is like, or if Joytech ever takes car of the pin issues a cuboid (that is a problem I am likely to run into and that would destroy the device for me). But just for the battery management alone the 213 still might be my vapocolypse for day to day usage, though I did get a nice DNA200 device (coming in today), because this is definitely not the high quality trustworthy device I hoped it would be.
I'm not sure, even in your comparison of coils/tanks...VV would do the same, and actually be MUCH worse...
So to make things easy.... Let's assume we start with the
1.8ohm coil...at 8.5volts, 4.72 amps, and 40.14 watts
Ok, now the
.9ohm at 8.5 volts(since we aren't changing this) 9.44amps, and 80.28 WATTS!!!!!
Finally, hell on earth... (at least for me! I only ever vaped that high, ONCE! After I did a firmware update on the cuboid, and it set the default wattage to 200watts in TC mode!)
.4ohm coil at 8.5 volts 21.25amps, 180.63 Watts!
As far as Lag, and your reference to the Herk...You are talking more of MASS, than resistance! IE, the coil has more mass, and thus takes longer to achieve the desired effect. This is where preheat, and temperature control come in.....Still, VV does nothing....I THINK even in the case of the Nautilus 1.8ohm, it's more a case of mass than resistance. What gauge wire, what diameter coil, and the coils ability to dissipate heat, nothing to do with resistance directly. IE, 32 gauge, 6.5 wraps will be BLAZING HOT, BUT 30 Gauge 10 wrap no where near as hot! The resistance of both is EXACTLY the same.....1.8ohm....
As far as most mods not displaying things like amps, not true. Some of the most popular(because they are cheap, and generally work well) are the Wismec, Joetech, and Eleaf) all the same basic chipset, and they all display LIVE Amps, resistance, voltage(sort of), etc...depending on the mode you are in, VW, as opposed to TC....., they do NOT really give very good information as to voltage left in batteries, BUT in VW mode, it does display the voltage required for the set wattage, and live amps.....
I'd agree more, or better info on batteries would be a nice option.....
BTW, thanks for all the great information about your Sigelei 213 how you use it, and your experiences, I appreciate your time to reply!
I primarily vape in TC using either SS316L or SS304, generally either fused Claptons, or standard Claptons....so pre-heat in one form or another is required. I've found most devices can be made to emulate the functionality of pre-heat, so whether I'm using the Joyetech Cuboid, or a DNA200 I can get a very similar experience.
Example, in TC mode on Cuboid, set Power to 85watts, Temperature to 420F, and it gets me about the same as the DNA 200. 85 watts is TOO much for 420F, but as soon as it hits 420F, TC kicks in. So, the effect is the same 85 watts heats the coil up faster to 420F, and then it's maintained using whatever wattage is required....On an Xcube II, you have Min, Soft, Normal, Hard, Max, (AND you can NOT make ANY settings for wattage in TC mode)....it's about the same effect as preheat, or setting an higher initial power for coils of higher mass to come up to the required vaping heat required.....
