Sigelei Zmax V3 and V5 Telescopic: User's Group
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The width of the center pin is variable. My one year-old V3 has the widest pin, the five month-old V3 is the most narrow but the new V5 pin is nearly as wide as the oldest V3. I can't see and rhyme or reason for this but that's how it is.
Sigelei V5...I'm not Italian but "Forget about it"! It's the best. I will not need another mod ever!
Will I still buy, I'm sure, lol as much, not a chance! I'm so embarrassed to have bought the Provari now!
(Sorry, Provari but you overvalued yourself) I flaunt my Siggy everywhere and people just love him!!!
(Looks even sleeker with the SS tank but wish I had chrome!)
Will I still buy, I'm sure, lol as much, not a chance! I'm so embarrassed to have bought the Provari now!
(Sorry, Provari but you overvalued yourself) I flaunt my Siggy everywhere and people just love him!!!
(Looks even sleeker with the SS tank but wish I had chrome!)
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This photo isn't well focused but you can see the pin widths. 1 year-old V3 on top, 5 month-old V3 on left, new V5 on right.
Welcome welcome welcome to the group!
I'm glad to hear the sigelie is right up there with provari like I thought it was.
I really think it's a lot more attractive, and hey, it's got variable watts, too! neener neener! 
I think I finally joined the Big League vapers today... after much frustration, flooding, cussing, and blowing, I finally got this beautiful thing to vape, and it vapes as good as it looks:
Also -- JeremyR, I finally gave the stacked batteries a try, and I am loving it, absolutely in love with it; I put these in yesterday evening around 5pm, have used this all last evening and all day today, and it's still got 7.3v!!!
But I was wondering, what is the lowest voltage it should go to, when stacked, before I change batteries?
Thx!!
Andria
I think I finally joined the Big League vapers today... after much frustration, flooding, cussing, and blowing, I finally got this beautiful thing to vape, and it vapes as good as it looks:
Also -- JeremyR, I finally gave the stacked batteries a try, and I am loving it, absolutely in love with it; I put these in yesterday evening around 5pm, have used this all last evening and all day today, and it's still got 7.3v!!!
But I was wondering, what is the lowest voltage it should go to, when stacked, before I change batteries?Thx!!
Andria
If I were both of you I would be careful answering the door and looking over your shoulder at all times. The "Provari Men In Black" will be visiting you after this one.
Welcome, Freedom. I love your cobalt glass. The only thing missing in your pic is a cobalt blue bottle of juice!
The only reason I would consider a (insert P word here) is because of the warranty. But not until it's VW. Unless, of course, fairmana opens his repair shop first
I believe with 2 somewhat simple mods the sigelie is right up there in durability with provari. (Board Retainer & new switch) The only difference at that point is the 33hz compared to 800hz pwm. But the +1 the sigelie puts out more power with multiple battery configurations including stacked. One might say with a few mods its the poor mans provari.
Other mods-
Fairmana, so the center pin on the sigelie could be lowered from the inside to allow devices to sit flush. At this point a grinding of the air flow channels would probably be needed if you were using 510 air devices.
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Andria - well take your chosen charge level and x2. I run it to cut off at 6.5 (3.25each) if you want to charge your batteries at 3.4v then you would charge at 6.8v. If you want 3.5v status charge at 7v. Glad you got that kfl working, it's always challenging learning a new device.
Other mods-
Fairmana, so the center pin on the sigelie could be lowered from the inside to allow devices to sit flush. At this point a grinding of the air flow channels would probably be needed if you were using 510 air devices.
--
Andria - well take your chosen charge level and x2. I run it to cut off at 6.5 (3.25each) if you want to charge your batteries at 3.4v then you would charge at 6.8v. If you want 3.5v status charge at 7v. Glad you got that kfl working, it's always challenging learning a new device.
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So does anyone know if the V5s have the same issues as the V3s? I have yet (knock on wood) to have problems with the V5, but the V3's issues were apparent pretty much immediately!
The Sigelei V3 and V5 switch seems to be the first part to fail. When and if it fails is unknown as is the failure rate. Nobody has shown any data regarding V3, V5 or any other APV failures but the anecdotal evidence is pretty clear. Some V3 and V5 switches fail within a few months and others have lasted as long as the year and a half the V3s have been on the market. Switches are among the first parts to fail on any APV. Displacement of the circuit board, display and switch inside the tube is the next most common issue with V3s, especially with V3s that have suffered drops, shocks or overtightened telescopic tubes. I have seen relatively few reports of this problem with V5s for reasons unknown. Sigelei V5 has been on the market for less than a year. A few V3s have suffered slipped internals despite perfect handling and adjustment.
I see no inherent vaping problems with the 33.3 Hz Zmax chip used in the Sigelei V3 and V5. I have experienced the "rattlesnake sound" heard when using low resistance cartomizers. To the best of my knowledge the "rattlesnake" is only a sound that emanates from some atomizers used with these devices and it has absolutely no effect on vapor quality.
Overall, the Sigelei V3 and V5 are among the most durable and attractive APVs to be found for less than $100.
I see no inherent vaping problems with the 33.3 Hz Zmax chip used in the Sigelei V3 and V5. I have experienced the "rattlesnake sound" heard when using low resistance cartomizers. To the best of my knowledge the "rattlesnake" is only a sound that emanates from some atomizers used with these devices and it has absolutely no effect on vapor quality.
Overall, the Sigelei V3 and V5 are among the most durable and attractive APVs to be found for less than $100.
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It was down to 7.2 when I went to bed last night, haven't looked at it yet today. I probably would not want to go lower than 7v, but since I'm currently using one of my vv3's and both my 18650's are charged and "rested" I may just go ahead and change those stacked ones, get them charged back up for tomorrow. Essentially I got about 30 hrs on a stacked pair, and that's just neat since I could easily get 6 more, if I really needed to. Oh also -- I recall what you said about making sure that the stacked ones are kept together and used together. I have another pair of '350s, have used each one time; could those now be treated as a linked pair to be used as stacked? I find that I really prefer the Sigelei in telescoped mode, so there's really no reason to ever run a single '350.
That Kayfun is indeed very challenging; the first coil I did, I had aimed at 2Ω, it came out 2.1, but it was a little cool, and a little slow, so I did another, hit it perfect at 1.7, but this time, I think I didn't use enough wick, not getting much flavor, so I need to rewick. Thinking I may go back to the P&C yarn for this, at least until I can get some actual cotton (cotton balls); it's a much bigger chamber than in the T3S's, so I'm thinking that scorching seems highly unlikely in these.
Thx!
Andria
Jeremy, I'm not sure why you wouldn't consider sealing the underside of the 510 important if you're talking about "durability". I've already seen 2 of these leak through a crack in the 510 plastic and one of them died "permanently" as a result. I can't 100% prove that the one that died was because of e-juice getting on the circuit board, but the probability is very high that it was. I had to clean e-juice off the circuit board, so in my mind it's basically a certainty. Why take a risk that a connector could crack at some future point that results in killing your device? You may never even notice a crack in the plastic pin support until it was too late. It's a 10 minute fix once the device is already apart - well worth the effort and peace of mind in my opinion.
I was also thinking about what would need to be considered to lower the 510 connector in my V3’s for a better tank fit. I took measurements with a micrometer of the pin depth among the 4 Zmax's that I currently have at my house (2 are mine, 2 are not). I also measured the connector lengths of the two tanks that I have on-hand to see what I could come up with.
I'm seeing that among these 4 Zmax's, the measurements from the top of the 510 connector to the top of the pin range from 4.07 to 4.24 mm:
- Original V3: (original pin assembly): 4.07 mm
- New V3 (different pin assembly): 4.24 mm
- New V3 (top-hat pin assembly): 4.10 mm
- New V3 (top-hat pin assembly): 4.12 mm
Just out of curiosity, I also measured the distance from the top of removable collar to the top of the 510 connector. I’ll go ahead and include those measurements here although they are really not important if they end up being filed flush with the top of the device:
- Original V3: (top ring not removable): 0.39 mm
- New V3: 0.52 mm
- New V3: 0.45 mm
- New V3: 0.26 mm
Moving along to my tank 510 connectors, there are 2 measurements that seem significant: the thread length and the pin length:
Kayfun Lite Plus (Tobeco Clone): Bottoms out on the pin
- Thread length is 4.46 mm
- Pin is "longer" at 4.58 mm (extends .12 mm beyond the threads).
Davide PT2 Clone
- Thread length is 4.58 mm
- Pin is "shorter" at 4.52 mm (recessed .06 mm below the threads - I suspect this will vary somewhat with different atomizers).
Based on the limited pool of measurements from only these 2 tanks, a pin depth of around 4.40 mm could work. This would require deepening the “average” V3’s connector by around 0.30 mm. It may not allow either tank to sit completely flush, but it would reduce the majority of the gap. It would only require unscrewing the top collar a much smaller amount to meet the tank while still allowing some variability in pin lengths on other tanks. Again, this is just a guess at this point without knowing how other tank 510 connectors measure up. Trying to get a perfect flush mount is not something I would do or even recommend, only because there is the risk that you won’t be able to use a different topper later that has a shorter pin length.
The perfect solution to always get a flush mount would be a pin in the device under spring tension. The pin could move up and down to ensure a firm connection to the tank’s center pin regardless of the connector’s length (within reason). I’ve already seen an example of this on a backup VV device my buddy has (Vamo Clone), but I can’t remember the name of it for the life of me. When I find out, I’ll try to find an online pic just so you can see what I mean.
I agree, and ditto; I hear it when I have it on a low power setting, but it doesn't seem to have any effect whatever on the quality of the vape, it's just a sound effect.
I've had mine only a short time, but I agree, ditto, +1, and "LIKE"! If I get another tube shape mod, it'll probably be the V5 round-top; I like the body style of the flat-tops better, the circles-around, but having a choice of tops would be nice.
But I think the next mod I get probably won't be a tube shape; I haven't been too wild about the box mods, but I keep hearing such excellent things about the VTR, that will probably be the one. The only downside I've seen anyone say about it is that it's heavy -- well so is the sigelei with 2 '350 batteries in it, but it doesn't bother me at all, in fact I like the solidity of it. And the Sigelei with 2 '350s and a Kayfun on top? Well I could definitely defend my virtue with THAT.
Anyway, the VTR could use the 18650s I have already, and I hear it's definitely designed with klutzes in mind, apparently it can take all sorts of abuse and keep on ticking... er, vaping. And I love how the "topper" actually is inside the box form factor, with just the mouthpiece sticking out, that's very appealing. But, that's pretty far down the road; they're a good bit more costly than any I've bought so far, so maybe that can be my 1-yr smoke-free present. Andria
I really like tube mods. V3 or V5 with 18350 or 18500 and a XL carto tank fit my jeans pocket just fine.
Upload it to photo bucket, that's what I do. The use the photo bucket link to add in the add photo selection in the posting interface.
I wasn't discounting that at all fairmana. It was simply a quick post over coffee before I got ready for work. Didn't mean to poopoo it. It wasn't a comprehensive well thought out plan just a quick post.. Me I've not had any issue with 510 leaking myself, and it's regularly wet or flooded. But it would definately be part of a comprehensive upgrade modification. I think the 510 pin leak is more of a hit and miss depending on the condition of it when it leaves the factory...
I like my oddy flush mounted, it's center pin is adjustable. I had already enlarged the air intake on it before. When its flush to the 510 it does restrict air flow. That's why I added deeper channels to the v3 510 for better air flow on flush mount 510 devices. My previous pv was a spring loaded pin.. It helped destroy the plated brass threads with the added resistance.
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