Sigelei Zmax V3 and V5 Telescopic: User's Group

[fairmana]

Yea I did that, you guys have been great about telling me exactly what I need to do. I think it's the switch too but I'm not even close to being an expert. lol

Do you find that it misfires less if you push down on the button really hard? If so, this could confirm it's the button. When mine started acting up after I bought my first V3, I had to push the button hard enough that after an hour or so my finger would get sore. I had to start pushing the button with different parts of my finger/thumb to get some relief.

 

[JeremyR]

I don't get the error msgs with carto tanks but it still has the firing problems. They've been doing that for a while. It wasn't as bad, it's getting worse. Every time I would take them to the local shop I bought them from they kept saying it was normal, that I need to push the button different or it was just me! I got so sick of hearing that I'm doing something wrong I just quit talking about it. I would assume though that when I push the button, it should work!

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Ahh yes I remember your first postings on it. I suggested at the time your switch was bad and you should get a replacement because it will only get worse.. Too bad your vendor didn't replace it for you and only have you the run around... So this may not be relevant, since your switch is bad, but good for us to know - with it together but not tightened a lot; hold the bottom tube and grab the top and move it side to side. Also set it on a table and push down on the top see how much it moves in the threads... How do they compare to v5

 

[AndriaD]

I would agree.

I have a question though MrsP0721:
I know we've beaten this to death, but before you've applied new Noalox, did you wipe off all the old Noalox and clean up the threads well with alcohol and an old toothbrush? You need to be sure the threads are clean and free from lint and any debris before applying new Noalox. Don't just wipe off the majority of the old Noalox and re-apply (even if the threads look relatively clean, they probably won't be). Also be sure to remove the battery spring and clean up inside the battery cap and the underside of the spring. If you've already done all that, then it's a good bet that the switch is the culprit.

That's so true about misc. dust and debris... I'd only had my Sig about 2 wks when I discovered that I needed to use a lot more noalox than I had thought at first, so before I applied more, I cleaned the threads with alcohol and an old (clean) toothbrush, and I was completely appalled at the amount of dusty and "stuff" that had accumulated in just 2 wks.

Andria

 

[MrsP0721]

Do you find that it misfires less if you push down on the button really hard? If so, this could confirm it's the button. When mine started acting up after I bought my first V3, I had to push the button hard enough that after an hour or so my finger would get sore. I had to start pushing the button with different parts of my finger/thumb to get some relief.

Yes! My fingers start hurting! I don't push hard unless I have to though. In fact I told them at the local shop that it doesn't work, UNLESS I push down hard.

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[MrsP0721]

Ahh yes I remember your first postings on it. I suggested at the time your switch was bad and you should get a replacement because it will only get worse.. Too bad your vendor didn't replace it for you and only have you the run around... So this may not be relevant, since your switch is bad, but good for us to know - with it together but not tightened a lot; hold the bottom tube and grab the top and move it side to side. Also set it on a table and push down on the top see how much it moves in the threads... How do they compare to v5

I'll test that for you in a bit! And yes, I remember, I just don't have money right now to buy and pay someone to replace them, hopefully soon though!

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[JeremyR]

OK. I'll take extra care if I ever have the need to take a Sigelei apart. What wattage do you typically run? I run 6.5-7.0W. Do you think that heat may accelerate cracking?

I run at 12-15 watts no issues. I'm pretty convinced its a manufacturing defect. As we saw these are mostly assembled by hand. Assembler may have over pressed them, or over tightened them, or it's just a plain faulty insulator part they recieved. I think also some of them may be sealed with sealant for all we know. Depends on who was in charge and who put it together I would think.

I've had no issues with mine and if you've followed this thread for a while you'll know what mines been through (its a long list including thrown from the second floor slamming directly on the Odysseus.) The oddy has an unforgiving solid stainless 510 & pin. There is no forgiving insulator in the 510, its solid as a rock.

 

[fairmana]

You could be right that it's a manufacturing defect, but there was no way to prove it beyond identifying the defect right out of the box. I also don't think that throwing or dropping the device would cause that insulator damage since all the stress/force would be concentrated on the threads. The pin itself wouldn't be forced down into the Sigelei, probably not even if you dropped it upside down straight on the topper. The only way I can imagine the insulator cracking is by forcing the pin into the plastic hole (maybe the holes on some plastic parts were fabricated too small for the pin) or by actually manually threading a tank on the device too far or too hard. I've heard that Viva Nova tanks are notorious for causing pin damage, and wouldn't you know it, both devices were being used with Viva Nova's at the time (my Dad still uses them, my buddy does not). I'm still on the fence as to what actually happened and we may never know for sure. All we can do is keep it in mind moving forward.

 

[Freedombadeaux]

Lol! Hey! I still will use it for my "Barbie" needs!

 

[Fegbri]

This may be of interest here. DIY beauty ring to eliminate gap...

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/variable-voltage-apv-discussion/560863-sig-zmax-diy-beauty-ring-eliminate-gap.html

 

[AndriaD]

This may be of interest here. DIY beauty ring to eliminate gap...

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...3-sig-zmax-diy-beauty-ring-eliminate-gap.html

OMG! This WORKS! I was just switching out my "daytime" ejuice for my lower mg nighttime, and while I had the kayfun apart, I tried this, and it really does work! In that post, whoever it is said that they had to file down a bit of height from the ring, but I took off the Sigelei's top ring, put the kayfun's top ring there, and then screwed in the kayfun's bottom part, with the atty, and checked the ohms to see if it would register, and it does! I guess it's because that 510 is so tall, but this is awesome, as soon as I get my tall smoke M-tank, I can use the kayfun's top ring to make this appear completely contiguous! That is awesome!!!


Andria

 

[vantagebox]

I don't mean to be too negative because I love my Zmax, but I own a V5 (black button) and it has all the same button issues... I took care of it as if it was made of Gold (it was my first serious mod)... Of all the potential solutions posted by all the great people here in response to my question a couple of weeks ago, only one seems to somewhat work. That's the "hold and twist the button" trick; unfortunately, the problem always comes back...

I've had nothing but problems with mine, the V5 is the only one that didn't start giving me problems within the first week. I've done everything everyone told me to do and nothing helps.

I didn't know if it was something that was fixed in the V5 and that's why (so far) it's not having issues.

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[MrsP0721]

I don't mean to be too negative because I love my Zmax, but I own a V5 (black button) and it has all the same button issues... I took care of it as if it was made of Gold (it was my first serious mod)... Of all the potential solutions posted by all the great people here in response to my question a couple of weeks ago, only one seems to somewhat work. That's the "hold and twist the button" trick; unfortunately, the problem always comes back...

I'm right there with you. It's gotten to the point that I've just gotten rid of most of them, one of my V3s is working much better but I have no idea why (and it's only been a day lol) and the other is complete junk and I got it 3 days ago but the company won't take it back bc it was a clearance item. Luckily I have a great friend who likes it and has the resources to get it fixed, in return she's actually giving me a great mod she doesn't use anymore. So far my V5 has been working fine, but out of 5, 2 didn't have problems. It's sad bc I like this mod a lot, the look and feel and WHEN it works!

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[Danny55]

Hi guys. On my Sigelei Zmax V5, if I have option #5 to 'Display Voltage', any voltage or wattage setting I have above a certain amount, displays a much lower readout when I press to vape. Example, the display will match wattage I've set up to 8w, but setting my wattage from 8.5w to maximum displays about 7.2/7.6w. With voltage, it'll match up to 4.1v, but between 4.2 and 5v, it'll still display 4.1w. I dropped the Zmax a few weeks ago, could it have messed something up on the PCB? But does it matter much, ie, will I still be getting the voltage or wattage I've set in option #2 'Power UP' or option #3 'Power Down' ?

 

[yzer]

What coil resistance are you using? Lowest resistance is 1.2 ohms. Amp limit is 4 amps. The highest wattage settings require use of 2x18350.

 

[fairmana]

That's very strange, I've never heard of anyone having that problem before. Are you sure you don't have the wrong menu item selected? In the past, I've mistakenly selected "Battery" in the LCD Display menu, and was confused why I was seeing 4.1v instead of my wattage, but then realized what I had done. Make sure you've selected "Power" and not "Battery" or you'll just see your battery voltage instead.

If that isn't the problem, then you should try to send it back for a replacement. The only way I know of to be certain that the output is correct is to monitor the output voltage with a meter. They sell those cylindrical meters that have a 510 connection at both ends that displays your voltage while you vape (connected between your device and your tank).

 

[yzer]

In addition to having Menu Item #5 set to voltage all of the time you must must select "Power" at Menu Item #7 for watts to display on firing or "Voltage" to display voltage on firing.

On the V5 display you will see the output in watts or volts on the top line of the display when you fire. This should be the same value you selected at Menu Items #2 or 3. The battery charge is indicated by battery icon on the lower line along with the puff counter. Battery voltage is provided in digits at Menu Item #4 if you selected "Voltage" at Menu Item #5.

 

[fairmana]

What coil resistance are you using? Lowest resistance is 1.2 ohms. Amp limit is 4 amps. The highest wattage settings require use of 2x18350.

Good point Yzer, I hadn't considered a low ohm situation. If I'm doing the math right, assuming he's using a 1.2 ohm coil the max voltage would be 4.2 volts giving him 3.5 amps, which is just a hair under 15 watts (14.7 watts). Yeah, his batteries would need to be able to provide that or the V5 might put a limit on it after a certain point.

Edit: I have no experience with how the V3 or V5 limits the voltage or power once a certain limit is reached... I've never been in that situation before nor read up on it.

 

[VapieDan]

In addition to having Menu Item #5 set to voltage all of the time you must must select "Power" at Menu Item #7 for watts to display on firing or "Voltage" to display voltage on firing.

On the V5 display you will see the output in watts or volts on the top line of the display when you fire. This should be the same value you selected at Menu Items #2 or 3. The battery charge is indicated by battery icon on the lower line along with the puff counter. Battery voltage is provided in digits at Menu Item #4 if you selected "Voltage" at Menu Item #5.

Oh how I love it when you talk Sigelei!

 

[Danny55]

Yeah fairmana, I'm not selecting the wrong menu. In my option #2 'Power UP' menu, it's currently set to 8.5w and when I press the button to vape, it fluctuates between 7.6 and 7.2w.

What coil resistance are you using? Lowest resistance is 1.2 ohms. Amp limit is 4 amps. The highest wattage settings require use of 2x18350.

IGO-W 1.9 ohms, KFL+ 2 ohms, Evod 2 ohms. 'Display Current' is showing 2.0A on the IGO-W and 1.8A on the others/

Interesting what you say about the use of 2 x 18350. I've never stacked my two 18350's, I only use them one at a time with one charging while the other is in the mod. Maybe where the display starts to not match my wattage setting is where I'd need to insert both batteries to get matching displays?

 

[yzer]

If you have two freshly charged 18350's try them and see what happens. I don't know what battery you are using but it could be that the single battery you are using is not capable of high amp drain due to design or by being worn out. It looks as if you are doing everything right.