Sigelei Zmax V3 and V5 Telescopic: User's Group

[DaveP]

I'm not sure that the mean average setting algorithm is what we expect it be. RMS matches what I expect to get in my vape quality. Mean seems to also reduce the frequency of the output to a lower setting that sometimes results in a rattlesnake type sound in the atomizer. When I switch to RMS, it smooths out and sounds like my Provari.

 

[roberted5]

Yes,I get a rattle snake sizzle in VV mode,but in VW mode it's a more steady sizzle,not quite continuous but close.I can crank up watts and get a more continuous sizzle,but I like flavor vrs throat hit.
Thanks for all the help.

 

[legaldisaster]

My sigelei is a overpriced paperweight

 

[yeahmon]

I'm still having the blank display and being locked out of the menu on my Sigelei V3. It's not a showstopper, but even when I have the display set up to show the battery voltage, it will sometimes go dark during vaping and I'm locked out of the menu. 5 clicks won't get me into the menu anymore. It still vapes fine. It just doesn't respond to the menu entry sequence and stops displaying anything while vaping. This also happens with a fully charged battery, not all the time but at least twice or three times a week or more.

Pulling the battery and reinstalling it restores normal operation. Anyone ever see this happening?

Happens to me on a daily basis. It seems that it happens when I store it in the pocket of my cargo shorts. I just pull the bottom cap and reset it.

I have developed a problem (without looking back through this thread to see if it has been mentioned) and that is that the display has canted over time. It looks like the glue has popped loose and one end has fallen into the casing. Also, as time goes on, the power button continues to slide up out of the clear button. At the rate it's going, it will not even line up soon, possibly leaving my device non-functional. I wish I could take it apart and reset it all. At $60, it's not the end of the world. I have used it heavily all summer long, and it could be disposable.

 

[fairmana]

I used to get the "blank screen" issue frequently with my Segelei V3 telescope which required me to remove the battery for a second to reset it. I've found that using Noalox paste on the threads practically eliminates the "blank screen" issue for me by providing better continuity in the threads (use a little on the bottom cap threads as well). Don't overdue it, but don't be afraid to get some on there. When the "blank screen" issue returns, I know it's time to clean the threads up with alcohol and an old toothbrush and re-apply new Noalox (especially when the threads get crunchy over time from the dust and grime sticking to the Noalox, which is normal).

You can buy a small tube of Noalox at Home Depot for 2 or 3 bucks (Google "Noalox" for a pic). You'll find it in the isle with the electrical connectors. It comes in a small blue and white box unless you buy the larger "Elmer's Glue" size bottle for about 5 bucks. I highly recommend you run out and get some. I think you'll be happy with the results. For me, it's a must.

 

[DaveP]

Comparing the threads on my Provari with the ones on the V3, The Provari threads are like butter. I'm still liking the V3, though. The V3 threads are getting better as I polish them by working them back and forth from time to time. When it was new there were sticking points where I had to back up and try again to get the battery cap on. It was like there were particles of metal lodging and freezing as I screwed on the cap. I cleaned the threads repeatedly and applied more Nyogel for lube. Over time, they are getting smoother and easier to operated without galling.

One of the contributors may be that there are two sets of threads ... two opportunities for resistance buildup. I see similarities with my aluminum flashlights where I developed a habit of backing off 1/4 turn and working the threads for brighter light. A flashlight connection is minor compared to a connection that powers digital logic circuits, though. The V3 threads should be polished. All it would take is another step in the manufacturing process. The 304 stainless is sufficient hardness to maintain good threads.

The V3 is a good mod and I'm finding that I use it more than the Provari just because I don't have to make adjustments when I switch from a 2.8 ohm Protank to a 2 ohm Evod. That's nice. I just switch and go in power mode and don't have to fiddle with the voltage. The other day I forgot to change the voltage on my Provari when I switched to the Evod and got a got hit.

I may have to break down and buy some Noalox although I think it's a shame that I have to perform special maintenance on an electronic device to make it reliable.

 

[fairmana]

DaveP, I agree. The threads on the Segelei V3 could be much better. I also think they went a bit too oversize on the diameter of the lower telescopic tube threads since I can tilt it slightly on the threads when it's set up for an 18650. The manufacturer may have felt the need to do that so it would thread easier due to the length and quantity of the threads, but I still think they went just a hair too wide. They feel too "sloppy" and it could be the major contributing factor to intermittent continuity issues in the tube. The slop becomes really obvious if you put the tube together without a battery and try to move the lower tube back and forth on the upper tube. The spring tension on the battery seems to be the major thing maintaining continuity during normal use.

As you mentioned above, if they had put more attention on the quality of the threads, they might have been able to snug those up a bit more and possibly avoid introducing additional problems. It's a shame to have to take the extra measures, but the Noalox does appear to help overcome that problem on this device. I'm glad to hear your considering giving the Noalox a shot. I really think you'll be happy with it and nix your "blank screen" issue. Best of luck!

 

[DaveP]

DaveP, I agree. The threads on the Segelei V3 could be much better. I also think they went a bit too oversize on the diameter of the lower telescopic tube threads since I can tilt it slightly on the threads when it's set up for an 18650. The manufacturer may have felt the need to do that so it would thread easier due to the length and quantity of the threads, but I still think they went just a hair too wide. They feel too "sloppy" and it could be the major contributing factor to intermittent continuity issues in the tube. The slop becomes really obvious if you put the tube together without a battery and try to move the lower tube back and forth on the upper tube. The spring tension on the battery seems to be the major thing maintaining continuity during normal use.

As you mentioned above, if they had put more attention on the quality of the threads, they might have been able to snug those up a bit more and possibly avoid introducing additional problems. It's a shame to have to take the extra measures, but the Noalox does appear to help overcome that problem on this device. I'm glad to hear your considering giving the Noalox a shot. I really think you'll be happy with it and nix your "blank screen" issue. Best of luck!

The past couple of days my fire button switch seems to be getting a little flaky. I'll get no vape and look to see that it's in menu mode and repeated presses have changed a setting. When that happens, I take the battery out and press the fire button a couple of times a second for a minute or so to polish the contact spot. Then, I'm good for a day or so.

Provari does that intermittently but not nearly as often. After a year and a half I only see it happen once a month or less with the Provari. Application of a bit of deox gel during manufacture of the switch would prevent that from happening for a couple of years at least, but the enclosed switch seems to be assembled dry. Shame on the switch vendor.

The other option would be a noise dampening capacitor across the switch contacts to absorb spikes cause by dirty switch contact pads. That would add a few cents to manufacturing costs, though. I'd pay it.

ETA: While I was posting this, I got no vape when I pressed the button and looked down to see that the display was on the power up setting. Time to remove the battery and do some button pressing to buy another day or two of trouble free operation.

 

[alex36]

The past couple of days my fire button switch seems to be getting a little flaky. I'll get no vape and look to see that it's in menu mode and repeated presses have changed a setting. When that happens, I take the battery out and press the fire button a couple of times a second for a minute or so to polish the contact spot. Then, I'm good for a day or so.

Provari does that intermittently but not nearly as often. After a year and a half I only see it happen once a month or less with the Provari. Application of a bit of deox gel during manufacture of the switch would prevent that from happening for a couple of years at least, but the enclosed switch seems to be assembled dry. Shame on the switch vendor.

The other option would be a noise dampening capacitor across the switch contacts to absorb spikes cause by dirty switch contact pads. That would add a few cents to manufacturing costs, though. I'd pay it.

ETA: While I was posting this, I got no vape when I pressed the button and looked down to see that the display was on the power up setting. Time to remove the battery and do some button pressing to buy another day or two of trouble free operation.

Thanxx its really much better now !

 

[fairmana]

DaveP, the trouble you're describing is exactly the same issue both me and my Dad had with the Segelei. I wouldn't get a hit, and I'd look down and I'd be in the menu. It got to the point that in order to get it to work right, I had to squash the button down hard until after a while my index finger started getting sore and I had to switch over to my thumb. That was when I decided to buy a Vamo V3 as a backup so I could see if I could fix the Segelei V3. In a prior post, I describe how I removed the old switch and replaced it with a sealed switch that boasts a 1,000,000 button-press life span. I fixed both mine and my Dad's.

With the old switch removed from my PV, I put a meter across it and verified that the switch was intermittent. Then I took it apart. It's of the type that has a convex metal disk, shaped like a contact lens. When you press the button, the "lens" distorts downward and makes contact in the center of the convex side and also gives you that "clicky" feel (reminds me of those toy "cricket" party favors). Using a magnifying glass, I saw that in the center of the lens there was a bit of wear (almost looked like corrosion) that appeared to be little pock marks in the metal. On a whim, I cleaned that area with alcohol and a cotton swap, and put the switch back together temporarily. Putting the switch back on the meter, it seemed to be working again, but that's probably because the disk was rotated from it's original position and was mating better with the center contact. Not sure how long it would have lasted if I had glued it back together again and tried to re-use it. I had a replacement and didn't want that crappy switch back in there regardless. The original switch started to go bad after only 2 or 3 months and I didn't abuse the switch in any way that I'm aware of (besides squashing it down just to get it to work).

If you go back to my original thread here, you can see a pic of the original switch and the 4 small back nubs I had to cut off with an exacto knife in order to remove the top of the switch and expose the guts. If you're interested, that post also has the part number for the replacement switch that I used successfully. I've been using my Segelei for almost 2 months since I did that, and the switch is still working like the day I replaced it. I'm hopeful it will last for quite a while yet since it is obvious to me that the new switch is of much better quality.

 

[DaveP]

If you go back to my original thread here, you can see a pic of the original switch and the 4 small back nubs I had to cut off with an exacto knife in order to remove the top of the switch and expose the guts. If you're interested, that post also has the part number for the replacement switch that I used successfully. I've been using my Segelei for almost 2 months since I did that, and the switch is still working like the day I replaced it. I'm hopeful it will last for quite a while yet since it is obvious to me that the new switch is of much better quality.

I saw your thread and decided that I would probably replace mine with a good microswitch type if I could find one that fit. Sounds like you found one. The same thing used to happen on some of the equipment in my service territory and the FRU was the entire panel. Then, engineering would find the piece part switches and issue some retrofit kits with half a dozen replacement switches. We'd repair the boards in the field and everything was good again. Certain switch positions were used more than others and replacement of the entire panel wasn't necessary.

I'll put your switch source and part number in a notepad file for future reference. Once I send my Provari back for a refurb under the extended warranty, I'll order the switch and replace it. I love to tear things apart and see how they work and I'm good at it!

BTW, Robins AFB used to part of my territory. I was part of the service team that supplied 24hr service to DAPS (Defense Automated Printing Services). One of the things they printed was service and operations manuals for all the planes in the AF worldwide. If updates were made to the file, they printed one for every one of that model and shipped them around the world plus enough shelf stock for replacements including full color inserts. That and all the other printing operations they did kept our team and our high speed electronic printing systems busy at 180 pages per minute 3 shifts x 7 days.

 

[DaveP]

UPDATE: The other day I bought a tube of Ox-Gard at Lowes. It's an equivalent product that consists of a conductive metallic additive and is functionally the same as Noalox. I cleaned the threads thoroughly and ran them back and forth, cleaning again as I went, until the threads were free of remnants of the threading process. They became smooth and silky (and squeaky). Then, I applied just enough Ox-Gard to turn them dark gray after I screwed the tube and cap on and back off.

So far, no more funky anomalies and the only issue I have now is occasional switch bounce that takes me into the menu. That's another problem requiring install of a better switch. Operation is more reliable so far. Time will tell. I'll probably have to do this once every month or two.

 

[GRH8095]

***

Sigelei Telescoping ZMax V3 Flat-Top
- 6 Month ...
- Since 08 Apr 2013 from ElectronicStix

This is still my everyday, "Out & About Mod" ... with ...
- IBTank 22mm SS Carto Tank
- Efest 18500 battery flat top, in the ZMax's V3 short 18350 mode
- No issues with the "Sigelei Telescoping ZMax V3 Flat-Top"

In the evening, I switch over to a genesis type or rebuildable dripping atomizer, on a mechanical mod ...

Things to keep in mind ... Sigelei Telescoping ZMax V3 Flat-Top
- Avoid over tightening anything attached to the ZMax's V3 510 connector.
- Avoid over tightening the battery tube, when using 18490/500/650 batteries.
- Keep the contacts, threads, spring & battery cap clean.
- Noalox, Ox-Gard ... is a mods best friend.

Suggestion ...
- Having at lease 1 mechanical mod in a collection as a backup is a good thing.

 

[DaveP]

***


Suggestion ...
- Having at lease 1 mechanical mod in a collection as a backup is a good thing.

Having just spent three days in Chattanooga seeing the sights, It would have been nice to have an 18650 smaller mod for stealth vaping. No one said anything, but shorter and more stealthy would have been nice. Each time I sat down for a short break, the Sigelei V3 had to come out of my pants pocket for fear of accidental firing (didn't want to turn output on and off with every vape). Something with a tube length of about half would have been nice.

 

[GRH8095]

Having just spent three days in Chattanooga seeing the sights, It would have been nice to have an 18650 smaller mod for stealth vaping. No one said anything, but shorter and more stealthy would have been nice. Each time I sat down for a short break, the Sigelei V3 had to come out of my pants pocket for fear of accidental firing (didn't want to turn output on and off with every vape). Something with a tube length of about half would have been nice.

***

Just a suggestion ...

Mechanical Mod, as a possible backup for the "ZMax V3 Flat Top" ...

If interested in a mechanical mod ... check out ...
- FastTech ... Nemesis Mod ... "Clone"

The ZMax V3 Flat Top, using an 18350 battery, I measured at 4-1/8in tall

The Nemesis Mod "Clone", measured at ... using AW IMR 18350/490/650 battery
2-1/2in tall, using a 18350 battery
3in tall, using a 18490 battery
3-5/16in tall, using a 18650 battery

Just a suggestion ...

 

[DaveP]

So far, I have noticed a decrease in logic faults with the V3 after cleaning the threads and applying Ox-Gard. Twice in one day I had the no display/ no entry into the menu problem that still allowed vaping. Both times, I just removed the battery for about 30 seconds and replaced it and everything was fine again. That was a mostly every day occurrence before Ox-Gard, so it did help.

Funny though, that never happened in a year and a half with the Provari. I guess the more sophisticated and finicky electronics of the V3 require tighter tolerances on battery voltage. I'm still using the V3 for my every day vape and liking it, though.

 

[ddracer]

Mine turned up today from VapeGear in the UK. (Cheers Guys) Also my new RSST Smok. This is my first go with both VV and RBA and I'm really happy with both. The V3 is a really nicly put together bit of kit and the thread on mine seem really good not at all crunchie. It turned up with two end caps, two 18650 (Blue ones) a charger and Clear-a-misor.

I spent a good while making a really good wick out of 400, oxidizing it 4 times in water the 4 times with juice. Then I'm running 4 turns of .25 Kanthal (1.5 Ohms) and vaping at 11 Watts.

It has cloud of vapor and fantastic flavour I really could not ask for more.

 

[even_keel]

- Efest 18500 battery flat top, in the ZMax's V3 short 18350 mode

Any photos of how you did the spring mod? Or do you know of any other hot springs that will allow the use of an 18500 in 18350 mode?

 

[GRH8095]

Any photos of how you did the spring mod? Or do you know of any other hot springs that will allow the use of an 18500 in 18350 mode?

***
even_keel

Checkout, in the thread ...
- Page 17 Post #161

It's been working great for me, since then ...

 

[buzzkill657]

Sorry to barge in the thread but I have a small situation is just got a sigelei Zmax.

My ego threads seem to not be correct . 0 out of 5 kanger evod will thread. They just slide right over the threads not a chance in hell of trying to thread

I'm gonna attach a picture with my flat top ring removed

Ignore the black o rings it's to protect my glass table

Thanks in advance

Sent from my galaxy Note 2