I get more rattle in my 18350's with the short cap. I think the short cap was intended for dual 18350 mode.
Sigelei Zmax V3 and V5 Telescopic: User's Group
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I get more rattle in my 18350's with the short cap. I think the short cap was intended for dual 18350 mode.
2x18350 measures 70mm in length. An 18650 is 5mm shorter.
If I extend the sigelei tube length as far as it will go without exposing tube threads 2x18350 will fit with about 1/8" of battery extending beyond the tube. The tall cap and spring fits this fine, the short cap and spring fits too tight.
I don't get any rattle with one 18350 using either cap and spring but the short cap and spring will fit tighter.
These springs will get shorter after prolonged use.
If I extend the sigelei tube length as far as it will go without exposing tube threads 2x18350 will fit with about 1/8" of battery extending beyond the tube. The tall cap and spring fits this fine, the short cap and spring fits too tight.
I don't get any rattle with one 18350 using either cap and spring but the short cap and spring will fit tighter.
These springs will get shorter after prolonged use.
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Okay, so noticed a minor issue recently..
It appears the OLED display slid / got pushed up a bit towards the 510 threading. If I look straight on, the lefthand side of the menu settings are too close to the edge. It's like the display shifted over by 1mm or so.
Perhaps due from tightening the battery too much one time? Or the battery shifting & pushing up the display?
It's not a huge deal, as I tend to tilt the top downward when adjusting settings, so it's not noticeable from that angle.
So what happened? Is this typical? Will it get worse? Can it be prevented?
And most importantly, is this fixable without taking it apart?
Sorry if this has already been addressed, but it is a long thread, and did try to search for a while.
Thanks!
It appears the OLED display slid / got pushed up a bit towards the 510 threading. If I look straight on, the lefthand side of the menu settings are too close to the edge. It's like the display shifted over by 1mm or so.
Perhaps due from tightening the battery too much one time? Or the battery shifting & pushing up the display?
It's not a huge deal, as I tend to tilt the top downward when adjusting settings, so it's not noticeable from that angle.
So what happened? Is this typical? Will it get worse? Can it be prevented?
And most importantly, is this fixable without taking it apart?
Sorry if this has already been addressed, but it is a long thread, and did try to search for a while.
Thanks!
Unfortunately you've been bit by its only major flaw the glue broke loose. Over tightened or droppe it head first. Slide a bat in and push on it you'll see the screen Move up. Sigelie should supply us a repair kit and/or recall it Imo. That's a LOL... Are you having button issues yet? If not don't worry...Only good way is to take apart and make a retainer or glue it. Only way to avoid it by is baby it
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The most common cause of a slipped display is over tightening the battery. I recommend compressing the battery spring not much more than half-way for all battery sizes.
Post #863
The circuit boards and display are mounted on a pretty solid half-round plastic base which is fixed in place with glue. But, some users have reported seeing a very small amount of glue at this location and it breaks free under a lot of pressure on the positive battery contact. This is what the new production Sigelei Zmax looks like inside. The display has a much more solid mount than early production models but if the whole circuit board assembly is moved the display will move with it.
Post #819
If you didn't over tighten the battery and the display is that far off consider replacement if under vendor warranty. You have to take the Sigelei apart for repair. I'd try to glue it again with a good amount of epoxy. Lightly sand mating surfaces first.
If the Sigelei is still working you could just ignore the issue until it becomes a problem.
Post #863
The circuit boards and display are mounted on a pretty solid half-round plastic base which is fixed in place with glue. But, some users have reported seeing a very small amount of glue at this location and it breaks free under a lot of pressure on the positive battery contact. This is what the new production Sigelei Zmax looks like inside. The display has a much more solid mount than early production models but if the whole circuit board assembly is moved the display will move with it.
Post #819
If you didn't over tighten the battery and the display is that far off consider replacement if under vendor warranty. You have to take the Sigelei apart for repair. I'd try to glue it again with a good amount of epoxy. Lightly sand mating surfaces first.
If the Sigelei is still working you could just ignore the issue until it becomes a problem.
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I believe this caused it. It wasn't like this when I first got it. I think it happened last night, and noticed it today. It wasn't dropped (yet, LOL).
The button & performance are fine, no change there.
It's only a smidge over horizontally. Otherwise not crooked or anything. More of a minor OCD annoyance, than anything. Obviously would prefer that it not get worse and/or start affecting performance.
Was looking at some photos in this thread. It could be just the angle or the magnification, but the 1st two photos actually look worse than mine (albeit on the opposite side)...
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...r-reports-one-week-later-74.html#post11500536
Will leave it alone for now, try to be more careful, and just monitor the situation.
The question is, does it mean since it's at this stage now, that it necessarily will defintely become a problem somewhere down the road?
It's hard to say, Gato. My first Sigelei arrived with a slightly crooked and tilted display. That is an early production V3 that has much lighter support for the board than the new units. It hasn't moved at all after eight months. How much of a vendor warranty did you get? Use the Sigelei and keep an eye on it while under warranty. Send it in for exchange if the display is moving.
These Sigelei Zmax V3/V5 Telescopics require careful tube adjustments when using the larger batteries. Instruction manuals should show this but they don't. My second V3 Telescopic was purchased as "body only" and didn't include any instructions.
These Sigelei Zmax V3/V5 Telescopics require careful tube adjustments when using the larger batteries. Instruction manuals should show this but they don't. My second V3 Telescopic was purchased as "body only" and didn't include any instructions.
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I do have the most recent version 3 (1.5a), so I'm hopeful.
It's a 90-day warranty.
I was using a 650 last night with the larger cap.
What I find weird, and maybe this is a good thing, is that I can't shake the display back down.
Aside from this so far, I have no other issues.
It is a pretty cool device.
It's a 90-day warranty.
I was using a 650 last night with the larger cap.
What I find weird, and maybe this is a good thing, is that I can't shake the display back down.
Aside from this so far, I have no other issues.
It is a pretty cool device.
Oh, you have it made. You probably bought it from Varitube and they are excellent people. If you use the Sigelei for 90 days without a problem odds are it's going to last a very long time. Post a cell phone pic if you can. It's not too hard to give the Sigelei three quick cliks and get a shot with the display lit.
My eight month-old Sigelei is on the bottom. The new one was purchased late in November.
If I was working for Sigelei I'd do these things to the Sigelei Zmax Telescopics right now.
1. Better adhesive under the half round electronics support.
2. A useful instruction manual in print or available online.
3. Stamp "FOR 1x18350 ONLY" on the short cap.
4. Stamp "18490-18500-18650-2x18350" around the tall cap.
5. Stamp three lines and battery numbers on the inner telescopic tube where the spring is 1/2 compressed with the tall battery cap:
18490/18500
18650
2x18350
1. Better adhesive under the half round electronics support.
2. A useful instruction manual in print or available online.
3. Stamp "FOR 1x18350 ONLY" on the short cap.
4. Stamp "18490-18500-18650-2x18350" around the tall cap.
5. Stamp three lines and battery numbers on the inner telescopic tube where the spring is 1/2 compressed with the tall battery cap:
18490/18500
18650
2x18350
Tried taking a photo, no good for close shots for this. Only have a cheap camera at least 10 years old, LOL.
Using my best squinting-eye measurement, looking straight-on...
Using a flashlight: On the right (button) side, there's about 1/2 mm gap where I can see the silver backing behind the display, along with a portion of a white dot (assuming glue). But it looks like it can't go any further to the left, since it appears it's encased in something with higher edges?
At options 2 & 3, the top line is flush with the lefthand side (or even a smidge hidden).
At options 4 & 5, the bottom line is flush (or even a smidge hidden).
At option 7, both the top & bottom lines are flush (or even a smidge hidden).
Not a huge deal, just a little off-center slippage. But I don't believe it was like this new.
Only real concern is if it could potentially get worse. I don't think it can.. looks like whatever happened, it's now at its max (due to the raised edges).
But never say never, right? LOL
Using my best squinting-eye measurement, looking straight-on...
Using a flashlight: On the right (button) side, there's about 1/2 mm gap where I can see the silver backing behind the display, along with a portion of a white dot (assuming glue). But it looks like it can't go any further to the left, since it appears it's encased in something with higher edges?
At options 2 & 3, the top line is flush with the lefthand side (or even a smidge hidden).
At options 4 & 5, the bottom line is flush (or even a smidge hidden).
At option 7, both the top & bottom lines are flush (or even a smidge hidden).
Not a huge deal, just a little off-center slippage. But I don't believe it was like this new.
Only real concern is if it could potentially get worse. I don't think it can.. looks like whatever happened, it's now at its max (due to the raised edges).
But never say never, right? LOL
yzer,
I use the small cap in (single) 350 & 490 modes.
Obviously I don't tighten the whole thing with 490, and leaves a middle gap which I like for grip.
I've heard either/or for the 490/500. Shrug.
I use the small cap in (single) 350 & 490 modes.
Obviously I don't tighten the whole thing with 490, and leaves a middle gap which I like for grip.
I've heard either/or for the 490/500. Shrug.
Sure, you can use either cap for any of these batteries. The Sigelei will have the shortest overall length with 1x18350 using the short cap. For the 18490, 18500, 18650 it doesn't matter for overall length. I use the tall cap for everything other than 1x18350 because it's much easier to handle (and less prone to cross-threading) than the short cap.
I've got a v5 in the mail, anyone want to recommend a battery configuration? Would an Efest IMR 18650 2000mah button top be ok?
I can only speak for my V3, but I don't believe there's much difference aside from the phone-charging capability & menu display.
I use the following, all button-tops:
Sigelei ICR 18350 (900 mAh)
Efest IMR 18490 (1100 mAh)
Sigelei ICR 18650 (2200 mAh)
Never any issues.
I believe you should be fine.
I use a flat top efest 18650 Imr, its just gotta be imr. If your looking for maximum output to 4 amps then stacked & labeled button top 18350's . Keep pairs matched. 18650 only puts out 2.8 amps according to reports.
Gato misfires are going to be the main concern. The board will bottom out on the negative wire and it could be wedged into it. Most our concerns are button to switch line up. You can see that through the screen. If it misfires often the switch contact can get pitted.
Gato misfires are going to be the main concern. The board will bottom out on the negative wire and it could be wedged into it. Most our concerns are button to switch line up. You can see that through the screen. If it misfires often the switch contact can get pitted.
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I run flat top AW IMR 18490/500, if you cut the G off the tip of the spring it'll allow full closure of the telescope leaving zero gap between the tube sections.
I have used a v3 flat top for 6 months. No problems except for my screen being uneven, since day one.
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