Sigelei Zmax V3 and V5 Telescopic: User's Group
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Wanted to thank you guys on recommending to unscrew the top ring until it reaches the tank, thus giving much better support to the tank (PT2 with airflow)and removing the stress on the 510 connector. I've had my Sigelei Zmax V3 Telescopic for about 10 days now. I've been very worried that I would very soon break that connector, as I have my tube in my pocket a lot at work and do a lot of moving around. I'm waiting for some 350 batteries to arrive in the mail so that I can have a shorter mod that will travel better. The mod itself has been working pretty good but I haven't used any Noalox yet as that is also in the mail. The mod has suffered from unexpected shutdowns and low-load errors which i think are all about the tank moving around and bad continuity on the telescopic tube. Next week will really tell the story. Apart from these few issues the mod delivers very nice power and heat control...
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**There is absolutely no reason what so ever to be concerned with the v3 510 threads. I can assure you they are nearly indestructible. Solid stainless is very strong... Now your protank that's plated brass and can break/ strip .. The best protection is to get your atty to screw all the way in with a different pin or an adjustable pin atty.
While screwing the ring up looks better, if the atty is not flush to the 510 connector it will have movement and if the collar is tight up to it, a drop on the atty will mess up the fine threads on it. Just so you know.
Your issues are indeed the telescopic threads, not the atty being "loose". Noalox all negative contact points tube threads, bottom cap and the bottom of the spring too, I had even put a little fine layer on the top of spring and positive contact.
**There is absolutely no reason what so ever to be concerned with the v3 510 threads. I can assure you they are nearly indestructible. Solid stainless is very strong... Now your protank that's plated brass and can break/ strip .. The best protection is to get your atty to screw all the way in with a different pin or an adjustable pin atty.
While screwing the ring up looks better, if the atty is not flush to the 510 connector it will have movement and if the collar is tight up to it, a drop on the atty will mess up the fine threads on it. Just so you know.
Your issues are indeed the telescopic threads, not the atty being "loose". Noalox all negative contact points tube threads, bottom cap and the bottom of the spring too, I had even put a little fine layer on the top of spring and positive contact.
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Yippee for noodles! We'll have triplets
ROFLMFAO!! Naw.. Mines just stainless.. Three weeks old and barely used.. The guy has THREE Provari's..
This was just sitting unused.. 
Should be here by Wednesday at the latest..
I finally saw a Provari in person today, at one of the vape shops we visited. Wasn't terribly impressed, but I guess its greatness is intangible. Frankly I like the look/heft of this Sigelei a lot better.
Went to the new MadVapes here locally; nice folks, looked like they were doing a bang-up business. They didn't have that air control thingie in stock, but said they would be getting it in soon. They did have the gun-metal drip tip I've been admiring at their site, wondering if I wanted it badly enough to pay $3 shipping for a $6 drip tip. It was a dollar more at the B&M, $6.99, but since I didn't have to pay any shipping, I came out ahead by $2 on that deal.
And now the drip tip of my Mini PT II matches the base.
My "pearl chrome" vv3 got some positive attention today, at the shop we visited that had the P'varis in the glass cases; they have a daily drawing, and we were at the tasting bar writing our entries, and the guy behind the counter asked me if that was one of those Innokins with the pen cap? I said no, it's the vv3, he said it was very nice looking. I told him it was my first, but after I had it for two weeks, I liked it so much I bought another in a diff color.
Andria
Frankly I like the look/heft of this Sigelei a lot better.Went to the new MadVapes here locally; nice folks, looked like they were doing a bang-up business. They didn't have that air control thingie in stock, but said they would be getting it in soon. They did have the gun-metal drip tip I've been admiring at their site, wondering if I wanted it badly enough to pay $3 shipping for a $6 drip tip. It was a dollar more at the B&M, $6.99, but since I didn't have to pay any shipping, I came out ahead by $2 on that deal.
And now the drip tip of my Mini PT II matches the base.My "pearl chrome" vv3 got some positive attention today, at the shop we visited that had the P'varis in the glass cases; they have a daily drawing, and we were at the tasting bar writing our entries, and the guy behind the counter asked me if that was one of those Innokins with the pen cap? I said no, it's the vv3, he said it was very nice looking. I told him it was my first, but after I had it for two weeks, I liked it so much I bought another in a diff color.
Andria
ROFLMFAO!! Naw.. Mines just stainless.. Three weeks old and barely used.. The guy has THREE Provari's..
Should be here by Wednesday at the latest..
Well, that just means fraternal triplets LOL
I love my Provari but I personally have hard time with the button on one side and screen on the other. It was designed for right handers, not left.
The weight of the metal and smoothness of the threading is impressive.
The weight of the metal and smoothness of the threading is impressive.
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I'm as right-handed as they come, but that was the first thing I noticed about it, Peeps, how goofy it seemed to have the button on one side and the screen on the other! I usually adjust my vv3s with my left hand, in fact I'm downright inept at it with my right hand, but not with my left, it's really weird. With the Sig, the characters are much smaller, so I have to bring it up close and really concentrate so I can remember how to work this 1-button thing, but I'm getting there. I finally got some 32ga wire too, so I might give coil building another try, later tonight. It really would be good to have some higher-ohm coils to use, the highest I have right now are about 2.7, and I keep getting a burnt taste. I need something more like 3 Ω.
Andria
OH! BTW, I finally got that first set of 18350's I ordered, and gave those a try today. It's funny, most folks don't like these telescoped kind of mods because of the "edges" between the inner and outer tubes' width, or they don't like how tall that makes it, but I find that I actually like it better with the 18650 in it; my fingers can easily get a good grip on it *because* of those edges, it just fits my hand better that way, the way old-style telephones fit your hand and your head/ear. God I miss those. I really had thought I'd like the Sig better with the shorter batteries, but I don't think so.
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I've got a 18650 in mine. I agree with the way your hand grips it better, with the telescope. It feels really good and stable.
I'm very pleased with this purchase
My husband was impressed with my lube job, on the threads. Poor guy really doesn't have time to tinker with my stuff too. Good for me to learn things like this, by doing myself.
Next I want to do my own single coild re-builds, for the Nautilus. Rip has a great video for this.
With stock coills I prefer 2.0
I dread the burnt taste. Eeeck! I hope you can find out the perfect coil match for you
I'm very pleased with this purchase
My husband was impressed with my lube job, on the threads. Poor guy really doesn't have time to tinker with my stuff too. Good for me to learn things like this, by doing myself.
Next I want to do my own single coild re-builds, for the Nautilus. Rip has a great video for this.
With stock coills I prefer 2.0
I dread the burnt taste. Eeeck! I hope you can find out the perfect coil match for you
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@ andria
It sounds like the burnt taste is due the atomizer, and it's a dry hit. If you get burnt taste lower the watts/Voltage. Your atomizers wick is not set up properly to use the wattage you want. In my experience kangers are set up for about 8w. Any more than that I had to make changes to ensure there was enough juice flow to the coil. I recommend figuring out if your wicked properly. Wick not too tight in the coil, slideable. Not too much over wick. When you get it just right you'll see bubbles rising into the tank about every 4 vapes. That's been my Experience.
But, I see a real rba in your future.
It sounds like the burnt taste is due the atomizer, and it's a dry hit. If you get burnt taste lower the watts/Voltage. Your atomizers wick is not set up properly to use the wattage you want. In my experience kangers are set up for about 8w. Any more than that I had to make changes to ensure there was enough juice flow to the coil. I recommend figuring out if your wicked properly. Wick not too tight in the coil, slideable. Not too much over wick. When you get it just right you'll see bubbles rising into the tank about every 4 vapes. That's been my Experience.
But, I see a real rba in your future.
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I think you're right; at one store today, talking with the guy about rebuilding, different tanks, etc, I said that I had thought maybe an RSST, since I like tanks better than dripping; he suggested that a kayfun would actually be a great deal better, so I might start looking around at those, just see what I can see. They do seem quite popular, for those of the coil building persuasion. I've never been opposed to the idea of building or rebuilding coils, just kind of afraid of it, it's so unfamilar to anything I've ever done before. I did finally get some better reading glasses, for up-close fine work, so at least I'll be able to see what I'm doing! I'm just getting tired of this constant expense to buy replacement coils.
I've been keeping it down to about 6.5-7 watts today. I'm thinking that the problem might be that many of these coils have been dry-burned a number of times, so even though the coil part still works just fine, the wicks are wearing out. So even if I don't really *need* to rebuild them because of the coils dying, I might do it just so I can a) get higher Ω, and b) get a new wick going on, in the coil itself. I do see those bubbles rising, and wondered if it was anything to worry about, but I guess not.
I didn't get to any coil stuff tonight, had to get my vape bag ready for tomorrow's trip to the folks' for our monthly housecleaning visit. I'm afraid to think of what my mom will say about this Sigelei. But considering how ignorant she is of this whole phenomenon, she may not even notice.
I'll be using the Hypertank tomorrow, for the long visit, and that's a brand new coil in the Hypertank, so I should be fine with that. I filled the tank and got the coil in, and letting it sit overnight to make sure there are no leakage issues, before I get 30 miles away from home! Of course I do plan to take along a T3S and one of the vv3's, just because it's 30 miles away from home, and feces does occur on a fairly regular basis. Andria
NO triplets purplepeeps!!! I already have fraternal 17 yo twins. Lmao!! Three would kill me.
Anticipation sucks.
Anticipation sucks.
I hate waiting lol. Did you get that from here through the members buying & selling?
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Ive had my v3 for 2weeks now and noticed something that worries me if i have a heavy vape for say 10-15mins the mod gets warm at the battery end.Never had this with any of my other mods its not a battery problem or tank problem and i cleaned it with surgical spirit on all threads before use and once a week,anyone else had this issue?
Mine do that too... I THINK it's ok, dare I say 'normal'. I have 4 Sigeleis and they all do that.
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Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Express using Tapatalk
I have a question... we've discussed that higher-ohm coils are better for saving battery life, and that it's possibly lower-resistance coils are giving me some of the burnt taste I've been experiencing. I've found a really great sale on the Nautilus tank, but I'm concerned that the highest ohm available is 1.8Ω .. true, I can find 2.2Ω coils at kidney puncher, but after spending $35 on a tank, I'd rather wait a while before buying a $16 pk of coils. Will the 1.8Ω be vapable, on this Sigelei?
Thx!
Andria
EDIT: Also, does anyone know if the Nautilus' drip tip can be replaced with a different one, a regular 501 drip tip? Not too wild about metal driptips, I'm finding.
Thx!
Andria
EDIT: Also, does anyone know if the Nautilus' drip tip can be replaced with a different one, a regular 501 drip tip? Not too wild about metal driptips, I'm finding.
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Yup.. it was a nice kit setup.. Comes with a bunch of batteries too.. One caveat though. Two of them i can use, but their not optimal for it i've found.. I can use them, but their not high drain batts.. Aside from that I think I did ok on it..
That sucks about the batteries but having to buy new batteries is a heck of a lot cheaper than buying a new mod lol. Sounds like you did really good!
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Batteries will become warm while they are being charged or discharged. If a "low vol" (low battery) message comes on the V3 during a vaping session and I immediately take the battery out for replacement the battery will feel a little warm. This is normal. The battery will also warm up during charging. It is also normal for atomizers to get warm during use and for that heat to travel down the 510/eGo connection to the top of the APV. A little waste heat is also produced by the circuit board because it is not 100% efficient.
You should be concerned if anything gets hot to the touch on these Sigeleis. Using Li-ion batteries that are designed for low drain applications like flashlights with a high drain atomizer will result in overheated batteries and possible battery failure.
You should be concerned if anything gets hot to the touch on these Sigeleis. Using Li-ion batteries that are designed for low drain applications like flashlights with a high drain atomizer will result in overheated batteries and possible battery failure.
Removable batteries sold in kit deals are usually not the best. I avoid buying kits for this reason.
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