anyone know where to get a replacement screen for a v5? or a good substitute material? anyone had any luck with replacing the window. the oled is fine just need a lens. been reading the thread page by page to no avail. any help is appreciated
Sigelei Zmax V3 and V5 Telescopic: User's Group
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I have never seen the screens available separately as parts. You best bet may be go to the classies here at ECF and get a junker to part out. Or contact one of the sigelei vendors and ask them for a DOA unit for part use. Maybe they will sell you one cheap.
Using batteries salvaged from laptops is a very bad idea. Unless you know the chemistry of the battery for certain and that it is a safe chemistry Li-ion type you are taking a huge chance to save a few bucks. During recent years laptops have caught on fire because they used ICR battery types that were supposedly protected by safety circuits inside the laptop.
We use safer chemistry IMR or hybrid batteries for APVs. These batteries are rated for the higher current draws needed for APVs and mods, not for the lighter demands made of flashlights. These are safer chemistry batteries that do not require protections circuits built-in to the battery. Protected batteries can interfere with the circuitry on APVs.
Basically, don't recommend the use second purposed and unidentified batteries. It's dangerous and won't save you that much money unless you are on a very strict allowance.
I hear it's shorter, and hopefully a bit lighter. Is the Ohm meter easy to use? I'd ask if it's more reliable than an SVD, but I'm not sure I'll get unbiased answers here..I smoked for 40 years and went Vape only 5 months? ago. I don't cloud chase. I just want a good hitting EVOD/Protank 1-2 bottom coil vape using cotton wicks. I'm old and more interested in ease of use, reliability, and an easy ohm meter for when I'm rebuilding coils. SVD is just hold 2 buttons at once so it's like one press to read ohms. TYVM for any info.
- Joe
I don't have an SVD but do have some MVPs and VV3s. Those show ohms without firing. The V5 only shows ohms while firing. Once you get used to changing menus and changing items it becomes easy, but slow for the impatient like me. Press 3 times (while turned on) to access the menus, 5th menu is display so press four more times, wait 2 seconds for items, press 2 times for resistance, wait two seconds for menu to go blank. Ready to go. When you change battery, it defaults to show power so you have to change it again if that is your preferred item on display.
I've been running mine with no lens for months. No mechanical issues what so ever.
So other than astetics you'll be fine without one. I find the added grip point nice.
Ok, after having difficulties with my V2, I decided to take it apart and see what was going on. This poor V2 has been through hell and back and has been dropped more times than...(insert funny thought here). Anyway, I'll post some pictures in a bit after having coffee. The V2 is quite different than the V3 I took apart. You'll see from the pictures, but the V2 only has one small horse shoe shaped circuit board support mount and it's only 2mm long. There is no long plastic half-tube that the board sits on. The other major difference I noticed was the mount for the OLED display. On the V2, it's mounted on a foam block and secured by two-stick tape and white silicone. On the V3, the display is, well, mounted differently. Hopefully, you'll be able to see from the pictures. They obviously made some improvements (good ones) from the straight tube V2 to the telescoping tube on the V3. For now, the guts and top cap of the V3 will go into the V2 and I'll replace the fire switch and figure out a better way to secure the board that came out of the V2. Pictures to follow...soon...more coffee first, ah!
Great pics Dsconnell! Thanks for posting!
That smaller support was the older style I was describing to tchavei two pages back in the thread. You can see how much better the longer U support (half-tube) would be at doing its job when compared to the old one. If they had just made the newer U support of thicker plastic, I doubt the the circuit card would bust out of the end-stops so easily. A little more glue (or better glue) on the U support at the factory would also likely keep it from breaking loose from the inside of the tube. You might have noticed how they skimp a little on the amount of glue they use on it.
The screen on the old style circuit board is just the OLED stuck to a foam block that is sticky on both sides. The white silicone you see down on the circuit card under the foam block is what they use to cover and seal where the OLED ribbon cable is fitted into the connector on the circuit board (so it doesn't move or get disconnected). The new style OLED mount is a significant improvement over the foam block in terms of stability and alignment. It's more stable because it is mounted directly to the circuit card. The older style OLED support (foam block) was prone to being misaligned with the outer window when it was stuck on at the factory. The plastic frame which encloses the new OLED screen requires 2 holes in the circuit board to anchor it to the board. This caused Sigelei to have to redesign the circuit card and move components around so they could perforate the card at those two anchor points.
P.S. I'm curious about the problems you were experiencing that motivated you to take apart the older ZMAX. Shifted board? Bad switch?
That smaller support was the older style I was describing to tchavei two pages back in the thread. You can see how much better the longer U support (half-tube) would be at doing its job when compared to the old one. If they had just made the newer U support of thicker plastic, I doubt the the circuit card would bust out of the end-stops so easily. A little more glue (or better glue) on the U support at the factory would also likely keep it from breaking loose from the inside of the tube. You might have noticed how they skimp a little on the amount of glue they use on it.
The screen on the old style circuit board is just the OLED stuck to a foam block that is sticky on both sides. The white silicone you see down on the circuit card under the foam block is what they use to cover and seal where the OLED ribbon cable is fitted into the connector on the circuit board (so it doesn't move or get disconnected). The new style OLED mount is a significant improvement over the foam block in terms of stability and alignment. It's more stable because it is mounted directly to the circuit card. The older style OLED support (foam block) was prone to being misaligned with the outer window when it was stuck on at the factory. The plastic frame which encloses the new OLED screen requires 2 holes in the circuit board to anchor it to the board. This caused Sigelei to have to redesign the circuit card and move components around so they could perforate the card at those two anchor points.
P.S. I'm curious about the problems you were experiencing that motivated you to take apart the older ZMAX. Shifted board? Bad switch?
JeremyR posted the first photo of the new half-round support for circuit boards back in December of last year.
12/17/2013: Upgraded half-round circuit board mounting
The difference in circuit board mounts is not model specific for Sigelei Zmax. Beginning with the introduction of Sigelei Zmax V5 late in 2013 it appears that all Sigelei Zmax models (Mini, V2, V3, V5) were upgraded to include the half-round circuit board mounting, screw-on top cap, one-piece stainless steel 510/eGo threading and new firmware.
Also from last December. These photos show how to identify the upgraded version of V3 from the outside. Same applies to upgraded versions of Mini and V2. All V5s had this upgrade from the beginning.
12/7/2013: Visual identification of upgraded V3
12/17/2013: Upgraded half-round circuit board mounting
The difference in circuit board mounts is not model specific for Sigelei Zmax. Beginning with the introduction of Sigelei Zmax V5 late in 2013 it appears that all Sigelei Zmax models (Mini, V2, V3, V5) were upgraded to include the half-round circuit board mounting, screw-on top cap, one-piece stainless steel 510/eGo threading and new firmware.
Also from last December. These photos show how to identify the upgraded version of V3 from the outside. Same applies to upgraded versions of Mini and V2. All V5s had this upgrade from the beginning.
12/7/2013: Visual identification of upgraded V3
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You have a direct fit retainer for the board now. If sigelie combined the two supports it would be a rock solid mod that would outlast a provari.
Although I have a Mini not a V3 or V5 I wanted to give a shout out to everyone here who has done so much research on these mods. I think I might be able to put your advice to use with my little Mini (Noalox!) So thank you all!
Thanks for the advice on batteries.
but as now i am going to purchase more expensive batteries what is everybodys is preferred set up, one 18650 or stacked 18350s.
ideally i would like to purchase 2 18650 and 4 18350. To try it all out myself.
Also what are the pros and cons of both configurations?
TIA
but as now i am going to purchase more expensive batteries what is everybodys is preferred set up, one 18650 or stacked 18350s.
ideally i would like to purchase 2 18650 and 4 18350. To try it all out myself.
Also what are the pros and cons of both configurations?
TIA
Fairmana asked:
"P.S. I'm curious about the problems you were experiencing that motivated you to take apart the older ZMAX. Shifted board? Bad switch?"
The biggest reason was the 510 connection. The board shift, glue flakes under the screen and the fire switch were the other reasons.
Quite a while back and after a hard fall, I had to reassemble the V2. I'd just moved and didn't have all my tools and stuff accessible, so I made do with what I had. The 510 connection wire was broken off right at the 510 pin so I cobbled something together to get it working. My temporary fix is not failing and I need to come up with a more permanent cure. I need to find or make some type of 510 pin that I can solder the wire to. The insulator in the bottom of the 510 is also failing and I need to come up with some type of replacement for it as well. Any suggestions from the group would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
"P.S. I'm curious about the problems you were experiencing that motivated you to take apart the older ZMAX. Shifted board? Bad switch?"
The biggest reason was the 510 connection. The board shift, glue flakes under the screen and the fire switch were the other reasons.
Quite a while back and after a hard fall, I had to reassemble the V2. I'd just moved and didn't have all my tools and stuff accessible, so I made do with what I had. The 510 connection wire was broken off right at the 510 pin so I cobbled something together to get it working. My temporary fix is not failing and I need to come up with a more permanent cure. I need to find or make some type of 510 pin that I can solder the wire to. The insulator in the bottom of the 510 is also failing and I need to come up with some type of replacement for it as well. Any suggestions from the group would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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Single battery verses stacked batteries.
18650 induces the boost cuircuit. The mod pulses at 6v peaks. You have 1v of run time, 4.2-3.2 cut off. You get best performance for power and longevity above 2.3 ohms up to 15w. 2.4 ohms @ 15w 2.5amps limit. Below 2.3 ohms you start to lose power as it eclipses the amp limit and the batteries run down faster.
Stacked batteries induce the buck circuit, which is much more efficient. The mod pulses at 7v peaks. You have 2v of run time 8.4-6.4 cut off. Stacked are best for longevity as they will last 2-3 times longer than a single battery no matter the ohms. Stacked are good for maximum power down to 1.3 ohms . Highest power achieved with 1.5 ohms at 6v for ~ 24w at 4 amps
You may find the stacked configuration needs to be set a little lower on the power setting to match what your used to in single mode, due to its higher capability and output.
I have two blogs on power and stacked batteries.
Stacked. - http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ng-info-stacked-batteries-regulated-mods.html
Why stack, stacked 18350, stacked better
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Thanks JeremyR. I'm alot more inclined to stack now.
So how will run time of stacked 18350's, say 700mah, compare to a single 18650 of 2000mah or greater.
I know there are 2 18350s, but in series its my understanding that they will still be effectively 700mah.
You startedthat they induce the buck not the boost circuitry. Can this really be over 300% more efficient?
I'm not disputing you. I'm just trying to get a better understanding of how this all works.
So how will run time of stacked 18350's, say 700mah, compare to a single 18650 of 2000mah or greater.
I know there are 2 18350s, but in series its my understanding that they will still be effectively 700mah.
You startedthat they induce the buck not the boost circuitry. Can this really be over 300% more efficient?
I'm not disputing you. I'm just trying to get a better understanding of how this all works.
There are five possible battery configurations with V3 and V5.
Single battery:
-18350
-18490
-18500
-18650
Two batteries (or stacked batteries)
2x18350
I use any of these: 18350, 18500 and 18650.
I rarely use the 18350. 700 to 800mAh depending on manufacturer's claims. Sometimes I use one if I really want the the Sigelei to be at it's smallest possible length. Then I use 18350 with the short battery cap. The length of the Sigelei V3 and V5 is 100mm this way, same as the Sigelei Mini. There just isn't enough battery capacity with a single 18350 to suit my needs. They only last me a few hours before they need recharging.
I use a single 18650 once in a while. 2000mAh. One 18650 will last me all day long and sometimes longer. The V3 and V5 is 127mm long with 18650 regardless of which battery cap is used. This will still fit into my front Levi's pocket but it's not that comfortable.
18490 and 18500 are nearly identical battery sizes. 1100mAh. The 18500 is 1mm longer than 18490. The 18500 is my favorite battery and I use it 90% of the time. Sigelei V3 and V5 measure 112mm long with either battery cap and 18500 installed. An 18500 will last me six hours before needing a recharge and it fits my Levei's pocket just fine. This battery is the best combination of size and battery capacity for me.
I vape at 6.5 to 7.0 watts with a carto tank. Efest red IMRs work fine for me. I buy them in the flat top version. For Efest batteries the flat top batteries are labeled V1 and the button top batteries are labeled V2. The Sigelei Zmax V3 and V5 can use both flat top and button top batteries.
Because I vape at 6.5-7.0 watts I have only tried to stack 18350s once, just to see if it works. It worked. I don't vape near the 15W limit of the V3 or V5 so I really don't want the long length of the 2x18350 configuration.
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thanks yzer!
About the same results for me.
18650s 2000 mAH last about a day at 9.0 watts on 1.8 ohm coil
18500s maybe 9 hours
I remember reading an earlier post (or maybe it was somewhere else) about the v5 having trouble with flattop batteries so I use the button top 18650s with no problem. I can use the 18500 flattops without problems too.
About the same results for me.
18650s 2000 mAH last about a day at 9.0 watts on 1.8 ohm coil
18500s maybe 9 hours
I remember reading an earlier post (or maybe it was somewhere else) about the v5 having trouble with flattop batteries so I use the button top 18650s with no problem. I can use the 18500 flattops without problems too.
It is 300% more run time, especially with coils below 2 ohms.
For one you have 2v to run through instead of 1. That's twice as long right off the bat. Secondly the buck circuit only reduces the voltage down ie. - from 8.4v to 6 and the battery voltage never drops below 6.4. , the boost circuit has to boost ie. - from 4.2 up to 6v
If I run efest 2000 18650 I would use 3 batteries in a day. When the single battery voltage gets below 3.5 you have noticeable drop in power output. With stacked batteries I go an entire day on one set of stacked batteries. You don't notice any drop in power until ~ 6.5v battery power.
Currently I'm running a 1.6 ohm dripper at 6v and it lasts me a full 24hrs with stacked efest 18350.
Stacked flat tops are only slightly longer than a 18650.
My 18650 have been in a drawer since I started stacking. Once you stack you don't go back. Lol
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I am looking into trying the AW 18490 when my four Efest 18500s finally give up the ghost. I've been using them for well over a year now. The AW 18490 has nearly twice the continuous current ratting of the Efest 18490 and 18500. Then again, for my use maximum drain isn't as important as battery capacity. All are rated 1100mAh so maybe I'll buy another set of Efest reds.
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