Sigelei Zmax V3 and V5 Telescopic: User's Group

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Just got my switch in, worked like a charm, My Smoktech Zmax Mini was a pain in the .... to get the cap off, had to use a vice, but once it came off, it was all down hill.

I however did not place something on the bottom of the plastic button (didn't really mind all that much), still it worked well, little bit of button washing in the socket, but fires true every time!!! Thanks man you are a genius!!! Without this, I would have been lost, and also, you are right, the button is softer then the original (which is good!)
 

fairmana

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Welcome Shredderofdabc. I'm happy to hear that we were able to help someone else out on a button replacement. :)

I wouldn't be surprised if this button replacement procedure was a good guideline for most VV/VW tube-style APV's. Even if the disassembly varies somewhat, I'd be willing to bet money that most fire buttons (if not all) are surface-mount tactile switches of similar dimensions. Even if the circuit card layout varies somewhat, the soldering procedure for removing and replacing these switches should be virtually identical.

Did you happen to take any photo's of the internals during your replacement? I wouldn't be surprised if the smoktek and the sigelei are very similar inside.

Edit: I happen to know first-hand that the Vamo fire button also uses the same switch, so I wouldn't be surprised if other Chinese-made devices did as well.
 
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fairmana

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By the way Shredder, I meant to ask if you used the latest switch (Omron B3W-4005). Did you watch the YouTube video or did you follow the older postings in this thread that used a different switch? If you used the B3W-4005, you should have had some leeway on the switch height by varying the length of the two plastic feet under the switch. Did you measure the original switch in the Smoktek to see how tall it was? With the Sigelei Zmax, we need to shave down those plastic feet so that we end up with a total height of 5mm on the switch. How much taller was your SmokTek switch?
 

DingerCPA

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I've had my Zmax V3 for a couple weeks now. Gotta say, I really like this little doo-dad :) I've been running in 18650 mode and shorty with 18350. Just wish I had longer-lived batteries ;)

I have the Purple Efest 18650 2100's and the Red 18350 700's. Need to splurge for the 3100's :)

My Nautiluses and Kayfun clones sit quite nicely on this workhorse. Thanks to all who've answered my questions :)
 

BaconTurbo

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I was messing around on the forums and found a topic regarding the zmax v5. The poster states you can run an aw imr 18490 in mini mode (18350) and just replace the spring with a bit of kanthal. This got me thinking, so I took out the spring and tried it with an 18650 and it worked. Granted it only shortened it by a few a mm's but shortened it none the less. I then took the wire out and tried it and it also fired with the battery contacting the bottom of the tube. I'm running it @ 12 watts with a kfl 1.5 ohm and the vape is the same in all scenarios. Is this safe? Or a recipe for disaster?
 

tchavei

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Personally I don't see a problem as long as the battery is snug. The spring is there to provide tension so that the tube doesn't start unscrewing by itself and to assure a good contact. However, if you can be sure the tube won't unscrew and start making a bad connection to the battery, I can't see why you couldn't do it.


Regards
Tony

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tchavei

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Interesting... As long as the battery doesn't swell in the process and blocks the walls I guess?

Never had an imr going South but I had my share of high Power Li-Po packs going into thermal annihilation and they all inflated to 200% of their size before starting the fireworks... Some only swelled without bursting but at that time it looked to me that swelling was the last stage before bursting in flames.

Anyway, rather safe than sorry. If the battery blocks the vent holes, don't do it. Rather have a longer mod than a shorter grenade

Regards
Tony

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javyn

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Hey all, I have a Sigelei Zmax V5 with the gunmetal finish, that I despise (I despise the finish, not the mod, that is). Half of it's rubbed off on my hand during a month of normal use, so I'd like to just remove all the rest. Any recs on what I could use? I spent the last half hour buffing the heck out of it with Maas metal polish. That took off a few layers and made it look better, but still a bit of the gunmetal black on the mod. Any help would be appreciated :)

Also, I read this mod is supposed to work with 1.2ohm resistance coils minimum, but when I try my 1.2 ohm coils in my Kanger Mega with this mod, I get a low load message. Any thoughts on that? I'm assuming there is an amp limit on the mod stopping me from using 1.2 ohm in 18650 mode?

edit: Oh yes, also, are there replacement top rings I could perhaps order to eliminate some of this gap between mod and atty? To manage, I just unscrew that ring towards my atty to spread the gap out and make it less noticeable, but that's not a very elegant solution.

Thanks
 
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JeremyR

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I've never got it to fire 1.2 only 1.3 will fire for me. It works down to 1.2 but not 1.2. I would take metal type sand paper to it 800 grit and finish it off with some 1000 or 1200+ grit . Unless you have a wire wheel & polishing stand of course. Modding the atty is what I like to do to reduce the gap. Otherwise you can track down a ring for it like in the kayfun mini kit.(? Andrea?)
 

tchavei

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To take of any paint or finish try acetone (high grade stuff) just be sure to keep the liquid and fumes away from the electronics and the switch or it will melt.
High grade acetone will disintegrate a credit card in 8min so be careful. I do it occasionally to retrieve the rfid chip. Metal is unaffected by it.

Regards
Tony

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